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Chevy Tahoe

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  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    You should post your leasing question here:

    "Lease Questions - Ask Here" Mar 10, 2003 9:23pm

    resque84

    Pewter is gray.
  • I have a drive train problem, they need to repack my 'yoke'...whatever that is...they told me, but it has to do with the back end...in '98. I guess Chevy changed to aluminum drive shaft in the Tahoe..which makes the problem worse as aluminum is flexible..thus more problems...Chevy has a 'patch' job to fix it, they do not have a long-term solution at this time...and it is not covered by my warranty, which expired at 36M...I'm at 42M. It will only be a couple of
    hundred... Can any of you mechanical types explain this to me? Is it a one time fix or will this need to be redone at interals? I'm just wondering if they are trying to rip off a woman??? (It wouldn't be the first time a dealer was accused of that!) In addition...

    I hear a 'thud' when I'm going from park to drive...this technician dude told me that its nothing serious ???? The kid was all of 22, maybe! .. Anyone care to offer thier advice? I plan on taking the truck to another transmission place for a second opinion, but any input from this forum would help me. Thanks!
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    "The kid was all of 22, maybe! "

    Dont discount the younger crowd. I am 23 and get this all the time at work. They ask me a question regarding doors and windows and sometimes they look at me like i am lying to them or I dont know what I am talking about.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    would be because the answer you give is not the one they are looking for or the way you're dressed....lmao
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    The rear yoke is a common problem. It feels like somebody bumps my 99 Tahoe in the rear when I accelerate from a dead stop. When I bought it, the dealer packed the rear yoke with grease. That worked for about a month then it came back. I have heard it is not a serious problem. I have also heard that a nickel yoke is available but I have not gotten confirmation on that from anybody on this board. Hint Hint!!!
  • bludoolbludool Posts: 2
    Well, just got back from the dealer for the third time, different dealer, however I am still getting the same story. I have a growl or moan from the front end or transfer case when in 2wd. In the morning when cold, very pronounced and very noticeable. Took to a new dealer today, they were able to recreate noise, and substantiate, however, they said like the other dealer to drive for 2000 miles so that they could detect pattern if something is wrong. I currently have 411 miles. During our discussion, they produced a document from GM's technical website. It is Document ID # 1230148 and it states the following.
    "Growl Moan or Drone Noise in 2WD May occur in 4WD."
    "Condition/Concern:
    1) Moan, drone or growl noise from front of vehicle.
    2) The condition may be described as a noise that phases (cycles) in and out.
    3) The condition usually occurs once the front axle fluid has reached operating temperature.
    4) Occurs in 2WD and eliminated when shifted to 4WD or AWD.
    5) Intermittently the noise may occur in 4WD or AWD, but may not be as pronounced.
    6) Once shifted from 4WD or AWD to 2WD, the noise may not be present until the vehicle comes to a complete stop and the vehicle is brought back up to speed.
    Recommendation/Instructions:
    1) Replacing the front axle assembly may not correct this condition.
    2) Replacing the transfer case will not correct this condition.
    3) At this time, it is not recommended to replace the front axle assembly, transfer case or perform any repairs.
    4) This information will be updated as more details become available.
    Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance. This diagnostic approach was developed for the vehicle with the VIN you entered and should not be automatically be used for other vehicles with similar symptoms.
    Models
    2003 Chevrolet Avalanche 4WD
    2003 Chevrolet Silverado 4WD
    2003 Chevrolet Suburban 4WD
    2003 Chevrolet Tahoe 4WD
    2003 GMC Sierra 4WD
    2003 GMC Yukon 4WD
    2003 GMC Yukon XL 4WD"
    Basically, by reading the information provided, Chevy has directed the dealer to have me drive for 2000 miles to see "what develops" wow what great customer service from Chevrolet. This is incredibly annoying and very inconvenient. Any advice would be greatly welcome. And if you are having these symptoms, let your dealer know, and have them pull this document so that we can all find a fix.
    Sorry for the length, just a frustrated "newby".
  • chile96chile96 Posts: 330
    Seeing all these tranny & front end probs have started to make me rethink my decision not to purchase another extended warranty. I have a '99 4WD Yukon SLT w/ 66K miles and my extended warranty ended last month. A new extended warranty from warrantydirect.com will run about $1600. Any thoughts? Should I be wary of anything that might go out soon? I've already replaced an a/c compressor and drier as well as some gasket manifold seals(can't remember proper terminology?). What would y'all do? Keep this in mind - i'm in the middle of my anesthesia residency where the hours are long and the pay is unmentionable. Thanks in advance.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    We get an occassional growl from the front-end of our '02. Have had a growl sound when turning to the left a few times as well. Doesn't happen that often and we can't "make" it happen. Just pops up out-of-the-blue every now and then.

    I've owned a lot of vehicles over the years and found most (and especially trucks) seem to make noises from time to time. I don't get too worried about it and at this point (10k miles) there's been nothing to keep the vehicle from operating properly. I don't have time to waste complaining about a noise so if it breaks I guess they'll know what to fix. I'm not all that picky when it comes to trucks. If my Audi were making noises I might get a little more frustrated.

    If it were mine and I was as irritated as you appear to be, I might try to get the dealer to give me a different vehicle. Paperwork probably isn't even dry yet. If you don't want a new vehicle, then the wait-and-see method might not be bad. Give the tech people time to track down a good fix instead of throwing parts at yours and being stuck without your vehicle every time it goes in.
  • 03tahoe03tahoe Posts: 83
    Others with more experience will no doubt explain this choice better. I think this is an apples and oranges comparison.
    Have owned several suburbans - all with locking rear- which I bought to help me with the light Maryland snows. This rear helps us to maintain traction in mud or snow.

    StabiliTrak on the other hand will help us with keeping the car under control as we tend to force our truck into a skid due to radical direction changes. As far as I know it doesn`t help much - or at all - with snow or mud traction.

    Would love to see the Chevy Dealers match a recent Ford TV ad. of $3000.00 BELOW INVOICE on Ford Expeditions.

    If I finally get off the fence and buy a new 2003 Tahoe it will have the StabiliTrak system. Being retired I will just stay home if we get a rare Maryland Area Blizzard. With my Burbs I think I missed a total of four days in my 32 years of work. ( Due to Weather )
  • resque84resque84 Posts: 21
    I have a 2000 yukon XL with a locking rear , but have ordered a 2003 Suburban with Stabilitrak.I had my partner's Seville with stabilitrak and used it in the first storm we had this year (NJ) and it was great !! So I figured I'd rather go with Stabilitrak which is an all the time and all weather safety system over a locking rear.Besides you always have the option of 4 LOW for a major storm.
  • vinnynyvinnyny Posts: 780
    Has anyone had a problem with the front brakes squealing on their Tahoe? My 2002 has 13k miles and the front brakes squeal every time the brakes are applied. I'm taking it in this week to have the brakes inspected, but I can't imagine that the pads are worn out already.

    Please let me know if you have experienced this problem and how you resolved it.

    Thanks in advance.
  • I am having a hard time trying to decide between a Yukon and the new Sienna. Wants vs needs! Anyone else gone through this decision issue. What made up your mind.

    Thanks
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    I had a 98 Expedition, traded it for an 01 Sienna (with all the bells and whistles). After 18 months I traded for an 02 Tahoe. The Sienna looked good on paper. It had a fine power-train, plenty quick, and drove like a sedan; BUT, it rattled, squeaked, popped, and groaned in so many places I gave up trying to fix them. (gosh...I thought I was buying a really boring but almost perfect Toyota) I never got close to the promised milage. In town I averaged mid 16's and a bit over 20 highway on premium fuel (recommended by the booklet). In spite of the impressive number of cubic feet it's relatively useless unless you remove the seats.
        My Tahoe consistently gets high 14's around town and 18+ highway on regular fuel. If you do the math, regular vs premium fuel, the fuel dollars are a wash. I didn't buy the 3rd seat (didn't need it). I can fold the rear seats in about 30 seconds and have a big flat cargo area. I've had no more problems with the Tahoe (13 months) than with the Sienna (18 months). The only difference is.... everthing wrong with the Sienna was considered "normal" by the service advisor. My Tahoe has no rattles and feels very solid.
        Drive the Sienna at night. Practically nothing has lights..... the driver's window switch is lighted but nothing else, none of the overhead buttons, none of the passenger switches, and no light in the glove box. The hood uses a rod. The rear brakes are drum and do not automatically adjust (interesting). You have to engage the parking brake to adjust the rears. Since no one uses the parking brake they recommend adjusting the rears at the oil change (assuming you let the Toyota dealer change the oil). Oil changes at the dealer is not a bad idea. There's been an ongoing debate whether the Sienna engine sludges. There's no agreement but better safe than sorry. Documented oil changes at the dealer are cheap insurance.
        Good luck! If you decide on a Sienna, avoid the rear power sliding doors and skip the in dash cd changer. They are problematic, lol. IMHO Toyotas are way over-rated.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    Looks like a much better package than the previous version. If I had no need for hauling/towing, the new Sienna (is it even out yet??) would be on my short list to check out. Frankly we have our Tahoe because we need it (and probably should have gotten the Suburban) although that's not usually why people drive them. Some of the new crossovers are more than adequate at meeting the needs of the average SUV buyer. Some aren't that much more thrifty in fuel, but they're getting better. We also average 17-20mpg with our 5.3L 4x4 Tahoe. It's not really used much around town, mainly just for traveling. With five passengers and cargo it will get about 17-18mpg on the highway. Throw on a 6,000# trailer and it drops to around 14mpg.

    I also think Toyotas are a bit overrated these days (i've had several and bought my daughter a new one last year) but they're still overall very good IMHO. Up until recently, our '02 Tahoe has been flawless. Now at 10k miles I've got a few minor complaints that just popped up and it's hopefully going in Friday. It's ahead of both of my last Toyotas though, both had several warranty claims by 10k miles. My previous Toyotas I paid for them, put 100K-200K miles on them, and did nothing but routine maintenance. As the world turns.....
  • bcb1bcb1 Posts: 149
    I had a '91 Eddie Bauer Explorer. Bought it used for a great price, had it 3 yrs, then I made a huge bonehead decision. Sold it and bought a new minivan (Ford Windstar). The Windstar was great...no problems, quiet, roomy....but I felt like a soccer mom driving the thing (I'm a 6ft, 260 pound guy...and driving a minivan is just not for me).

    So I sold the Windstar and bought a 2000 Yukon. Best decision I ever made. I love it; it's been trouble-free (couple minor issues, nothing major).

    So the point is; go with your gut feeling. Whether you actually "need" a Tahoe or not...if that's what you really WANT, then buy it. You'll end up being sorry if you don't.
  • bcb1bcb1 Posts: 149
    I had 54,000 miles on my OEM Firestone Wilderness tires...believe it or not, they still had 1/2 the tread left! Yes, I could have EASILY got 65,000 miles or more out of them. But they didn't have much snow traction at all, and they weren't real quiet....

    So, I replaced them with Michelin Cross Terrains on Friday. WOW! What a huge difference. I'm not exaggerating when I say it's like driving a brand new SUV! The ride comfort and quietness of the new tires is simply amazing. Honest, if I would have known how much difference the Michelins made in ride comfort and QUIET ride...I would have replaced them a year ago!

    I personally am 100% sold on Michelins. I'll buy them for every vehicle now that I've owned a set. If you're looking for tires for your Tahoe/Yukon...your search is over.
  • poswaldposwald Posts: 38
    I had the same reaction when I put them on my 01 Nissan Pathfinder. I replaced BFGoodrich's. I can't wait until my Firestones on my Tahoe wear out so I can get me some Cross Terrains. bcb1: What did you pay for 4 tires installed?
  • I've taken my 02 Tahoe 5.3L (Flex) into the dealer numerous times for a Ringing (whistling?) sound from the engine. Their answer to the problem is that its the Throttle Body unit's design and its a "Normal" Characteristic. Has anyone else had this problem? I found a message (# 2471) from scot2646 describing the same problem but it looks like no one replied. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Matt
  • ianshawianshaw Posts: 119
    Vinnyny - I have had the same problem with my 2002 LT Tahoe. The brakes have been noisy since the truck was new - and it only has 6500 miles now. Although I have heard the brakes while driving around town, I have never heard it at highway speeds. The problem is the worse when I am going at slow speeds - particularly when I am backing out of my garage in reverse gear.

    Let me know if you get any resolution of this issue at the dealership.
  • garywgaryw Posts: 116
    Hi - we are looking at a 2003 Tahoe w/third street. Is anyone using the middle row for 3 child seats.

    We need to know if the Tahoe can fit 1 booster seat, 1 child seat (2.5 year old) and a newborn child seat in the middle row. We want all three to be in the same row.

    Thanx in advance.
  • clpurnellclpurnell Posts: 1,087
    I bought the odyssey in december instead of getting an SUV. I thought I would let my brain make the decsison and not my heart. While the oddy is a really good car it is boring and the mpg are very similar to a SUV in town (the only way it is used right now). My wife and I are 26 and 27 respectively and really don't fit the soccer mom/dad image. I doubt if the oddy stays in the driveway another year. I figure it will be gone very soon. The moral of the story is your heart and head have to be happy with the decsion you make. "Buy and Drive what you like" as a couple guys around here say.
  • 03tahoe03tahoe Posts: 83
    On all four of my Suburbans, I run the OEM tires for about 30,000 miles and then use nothing but Michelins. Great tires.
  • I think that you probably won't have any problems getting three seats across, especially if one is just a booster. While, I do not have three car seats in ours, I do have two in the middle row (one in the center and one behind the passenger) and my oldest still has plenty of room behind the driver's seat. I'm pretty sure another seat would fit in there too.

    One thing I have noticed is that it only has LATCH attachments for two spaces (middle and behind the passenger side). For some reason there aren't LATCH points behind the driver, although you can still tether it on the floor behind the seat. Also, the auto-retractors make it nice if you are using the seat belts to hold in the car seats. No more messing around with those clips.

    However, the best way to be sure (although a major hassle, I'd admit) would be to take your seats out at the dealership and try it... Good luck with whatever you decide. My family loves the Tahoe.
  • I checked out the 2003 Yukon tonight. Very nice! Powerful, quiet and comfortable. Next step is to compare the Sienna.

    Thanks for the feedback on experience on the Van/SUV decision. You feel my pain and as you know it's a hard decision for many reasons.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,231
    My '02 has Latch on both outside 2nd row positions. This lets you put a car seat in any of the three positions in the rear seat. Obviously there are compromises if you're using more than one Latch equipped child seat. I see no reason why all three child seats wouldn't fit, these are about as wide as any vehicle you're going to find.

    When we have an infant seat in, we put it in the middle and use the Latch connectors and the rear tether. That's the most secure way I've ever seen to hook in a child seat. Two adults have plenty of room on each side.
  • bcb1bcb1 Posts: 149
    I bought them at Sears, believe it or not. They will price-match ANY competitor's price -- so even though the regular Sears price is expensive, all you need to do is get an estimate from Sam's Club or Costco (Sam's was the cheapest I could find).

    The tire size on my Yukon is 265/60 16, and I paid $140 each, plus $14 for lifetime balancing. I didn't buy road hazard (it was too expensive in my opinion). Total was right around $640 for all 4 tires. That's a heck of a deal!

    The Sears sale price was $152 per tire, regular price is $174 -- so it defintately pays to get the best price from Sams Club. Sears won't give you any hassle at all about matching the price. In fact, when they are ringing up the sale, they have a button on their computer screen that says "Competitive Discount"....so it must be something that they do all the time!
  • bcb1bcb1 Posts: 149
    Many of us here have been in the same boat as you guys - deciding between a minivan (which admittedly probably makes more sense) and a SUV (which makes us smile and looks a lot better!).

    I can't stress enough...go with your gut! If you really want a Tahoe..Yukon...whatever...then buy it! You won't be sorry if you get what you really want up front.

    The mileage isn't really that much different (my Windstar got low 20s MPG, my Yukon gets about 17mpg). That's only a couple bucks per week in gas. Plus, darn it...they just look more rugged...like you're ready for a week in the outback...even though the only Outback you'll probably be driving to is the one that serves steak and cheese fries!

    Have fun shopping for your new vehicle!
  • vinnynyvinnyny Posts: 780
    The dealer is going to check out my Tahoe tomorrow. I'll let you know what they say.

    Has anyone else experienced excessive brake noise on their Tahoe? If so, how was it resolved?
  • garywgaryw Posts: 116
    Thank you for the responses. At $10K off sticker and my $4000 GM money it may be the ticket.
  • any information on your purchase would be appreciated. model/options
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