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Chevy Tahoe

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  • I have about 32,000 on my 2000 Tahoe LS 4WD 5.3. I scheduled an oil change and was told by the dealer that it was due for a 30,000 maintenance which would cost about $600. Is this accurate? I thought this SUV did not need a tune-up or other drastic maintenance until 100,000 miles? Where can I confirm a maintenance shedule for the 2000 Tahoe? Thanks for your comments.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    I do not recall an expensive 30k service. Look at your owner's manual and see what it says. A trans fluid change may be a good idea at 30K (mine failed and was replaced, so I didn't have to do it).
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,919
    The Edmunds Maintenance Guide will tell you what the factory recommends and estimates what it should cost. The dealer will recommend more be done, and occasionally their recommendations are fine. Just keep your guard up :-)

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • fkozilfkozil Posts: 65
    Be advised that most dealers encourage their customers to follow the extreme driving schedule for routine maintenance. If you check the back of your owner's manual, routine maintenance is usually divided into two sections, normal driving and extreme driving. The average driver qualifies as a normal driver however, dealers want to make money too so they encourage their customers to follow the extreme driving section.

    With respect to the transmission service, I would highly recommend you have a fluid exchange done on your transmission now and replace the fluid with synthetic. If you do this, you will not have to worry about maintenance on your tranny for quite some time. It's worth the extra money now as it will pay dividends down the road.
  • I recently purchased a used 2001 Tahoe that is a dark green metallic color with tan/neutral leather interior. Wanting to know all the options this vehicle had, I sent my VIN to the Chevrolet Customer Assistance Center and they sent me back a list of build codes (same as the list in the glove box sticker) and descriptions. Everything made sense except the colors. They say 47U is Royal Blue Metallic and 52I is Gray Interior Trim.
    My question, is there a way to find out if their info was wrong on the code descriptions, something got changed as the vehicle was built, or someone totally redid the vehicle. Help, comments, direction would be appreciated.
  • The paint code is actually longer than just 3 digits. In your case, code 47/9539 for 2001-03 is Medium Green Pearl, while code 47U/544G for 2000-03 is Dark Blue Metallic.
  • i have a 2002 tahoe 2wd, small v8, 13000 miles.

    when the truck sits for an extended time in the heat, or gets very hot from traveling long distances, a very concerning sound comes from under the truck.

    this does affect my acceleration because it gets louder with acceleration, so my natural tendency is to decelerate.

    hard to tell what the noise sounds like, either a gear stripping ( like when i used to put a card in the spoke of my bicycle) to possible air pockets in the a/c coils.
    the mechanic is never around when it happens, so this is very difficult to diagnose without giving my truck to the mech- for 2 days.

    thanks for any input!
  • juice22juice22 Posts: 29
    I have a 2002 Denali that has a problem with the front axel whining. Has anybody with the same problem had GM perform the following fix?

    TSB: 03-04-17-005
    · Replace the front propeller shaft with an internally tuned dampened shaft*

    If so, please respond back and let me know what the results were. This seems to be a “Cover Up” solution. Why would the “front end” gears whine while the “rear end” gears are quite? I can’t seem to figure it out and neither can GM.

    As always, thank you for the feedback.
  • i noticed this weekend after long distance driving, a noise after i stop that sounds like a ping (twice) either something is swinging and hitting something or something is hot. the sound is similar to a manifold getting hot and cooling off. i have never noticed this but always had the radio turned on. does not seem to occur once we are moving '03 LT 1400miles
  • rugetirugeti Posts: 54
    Just bought an '03 Tahoe. I want to change out the wheels. I've done this on several cars before, but want to get advice.

    Does anyone have any recommendations on a very good quality wheel that will not warp and whose finish will hold up well. I am also thinking that an 18" wheel would be good. I don't want too harsh a ride so I don't want to go bigger and I don't think a 17" will be enough of a change to be worth it (any comments?). On that note, does anyone have a recommendation for good, quiet, street tires. I'm much more into quality than "bling bling".

    Now on to the DVD. We want to put in a system for the kids. We have the 3rd row seat and will use it a lot, so we're leaning toward a drop-down screen, as opposed to the headrests. Does anyone recommend a system, and even better, does anyone by chance know a good installer in Orange County, CA? As with the wheels, I'm much more into quality that flash.
  • i noticed this weekend after long distance driving, a noise after i stop that sounds like a ping (twice) either something is swinging and hitting something or something is hot. the sound is similar to a manifold getting hot and cooling off. i have never noticed this but always had the radio turned on. does not seem to occur once we are moving '03 LT 1400miles
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    I am looking for TSB 02-05-26-002 on the parking brake. Does anyone have a copy of it or know where I could get it?
  • dardson1dardson1 Posts: 696
    I have an 02 Tahoe LS approaching 2 years. Kinda sniffing around for a new ride. After a few weeks of driving, testing, and comparing......IMHO you absolutely can't do any better than a Tahoe/Yukon for content and bang for the buck. You can do as well with an Expedition (moneywise) if you prefer what Ford does better than GM. Chevy/GMC does the best job of making a big SUV that feels aggressive. Just my 2 cents.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    Brakes - Scraping Noises From Rear of Vehicle

    File In Section: 05 - Brakes

    Bulletin No.: 02-05-26-002A

    Date: February, 2003

    TECHNICAL

    Subject:
    Scraping Noise From Rear Of Vehicle
    (Replace Parking Brake Shoe Kit and Clean Drum In Hat Rotor)

    Models:
    2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
    1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Series Pickups
    2000-2003 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe 1500 Series Models
    2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche 1500 Series Models
    1999-2003 GMC Sierra 1500 Series Pickups
    2000-2003 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL 1500 Series Models

    This bulletin is being revised to add Suburban and Yukon XL models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-26-002 (Section 05 - Brakes).

    Condition

    Some customers may comment on a scraping noise from the rear of the vehicle while driving. The noise may be intermittent.

    Cause

    Condition may due to the parking brake shoe contacting the drum in hat rotor without the parking brake being applied, causing premature wear on the shoe lining.

    Correction

    Replace the parking brake shoe and install a new designed spring clip retainer. Follow the service procedure below to correct this condition.

    1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in the General Information sub-section of the Service Information (SI Document ID # 639546).
     
    2. Remove the tire and the wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in the Tires and Wheels sub-section of the Service Information (SI Document ID # 656965).
     
    3. Relieve the tension on the park brake cables by loosening the nut at the equalizer.
     
    4. Mark the relationship of the rotor to the hub.
     
    5. Remove the brake caliper bracket mounting bolts.
     
    Notice : Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from it's mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak.

    6. Remove the brake caliper and brake caliper bracket as an assembly and support with heavy mechanic's wire or equivalent. DO NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper.
     
    7. Remove the rotor retaining push nuts from the wheel studs (if applicable).
     
    Notice :DO NOT use a hammer to remove the rotor from the hub; it may cause damage to the rotor.

    Important :The rotor may not be easily removed from the hub due to a rust build up on the outside edge of the drum and hat portion of the rotor.

    8. Remove the rotor from the hub. If the rotor cannot be removed from the hub by pulling on the rotor, use J 46277 rotor removal tool.
     
    Notice :Place J 46277 between the rotor surfaces in the vent section of the rotor. DO NOT place J 46277 on the back side of the rotor surface, it may damage the rotor surface.

    9. Using removal tool J 46277 on slide hammer J 6125B, remove the rotor by placing removal tool J 46277 in the vent section of the rotor at the twelve, three, six and nine o'clock positions, not necessarily in that order.
     
    10. Clean the rust ridge from the drum portion of the rotor using a grinding stone and rotor resurfacing kit J 41013.
     
    11. Remove the spring clip bolt (3) and retainer (2) and discard.

    Important :Minimum thickness of the parking brake shoe lining in any given spot is 1.5 mm (0.06 in).

    12. Measure the parking brake shoe thickness in multiple spots. Replace the parking brake shoe if the thickness is less than 1.5 mm (0.06 in). Continue with Step 14.
     
    13. If the parking brake shoe lining is greater than 1.5 mm (0.06 in), continue with Step 19.
     
    14. Rotate the parking brake shoe (1) out from the bottom and pull it out of the adjuster. Discard the shoe.
     
    15. Remove the park brake shoe assembly from the vehicle by placing one of the open ends of the shoe over the axle flange and rotate the shoe until it has cleared the flange.
     
    16. Turn the adjustment screw (1) to the fully home position in the notched adjustment nut.
     
    17. Install the new park brake shoe assembly (1) from the parking brake shoe kit, P/N 88982875, to the vehicle by placing one of the open ends of the shoe over the axle flange and rotating the shoe until it is behind the flange.
     
    18. Slide the shoe into the adjuster and position the shoe to the backing plate. Install the retaining spring clip (2) and bolt (3) from the parking brake shoe kit, P/N 88982875. If using parking brake service kit 88982875, SKIP Step 19.
     
    19. Replace the retaining spring clip (2) and bolt (3) from the parking brake retaining spring clip kit, P/N 88982879.

    Tighten
    Tighten the bolt (3) to 5 N.m (44 lb in).
     
    20. Set the J 21177-A so that it contacts the inside diameter of the rotor.
     
    21. Position the J 21177-A over the shoe and the lining at the widest point.
     
    Important :

    ^ The parking brake adjustment screw threads should not exceed 5 mm (0.2 in) of exposed thread.
     
    ^ The clearance between the park brake shoe and the rotor is 0.6604 mm (0.026 in).
     
    22. The parking brake adjustment screw threads should not exceed 5 mm (0.2 inch) of exposed thread.
     
    Notice : Whenever the brake rotor has been separated from the wheel bearing flange, clean any rust or foreign material from the mating surface of the rotor and flange with the J 42450 hub cleaning kit. Failure to do this may result in increased lateral runout of the rotor and brake pulsation.

    23. Use the J 42450-A to clean all rust and contaminants from the mating surface of the hub flange.
     
    24. Use the J 41013 to clean all rust and contaminants from the inside diameter of the hat section of the brake rotor to prevent any foreign material from getting between the brake rotor and the hub flange.
     
    25. Align the mark on the rotor with the mark on the hub and install the rotor by slowly turning the rotor while pushing the rotor towards the axle.
     
    26. Install the caliper and the bracket as an assembly to the vehicle.
     
    27. Perform the following procedure before installing the caliper bracket mounting bolts.

    ^ Remove all traces of the original adhesive.
     
    ^ Clean the threads of the bolt with brake parts cleaner, P/N 12346139 (Canadian P/N 10953463), and allow to dry.
     
    ^ Apply threadlocker, GM P/N 12345493 (Canadian P/N 10953488), or Red LOCTITE(TM) # 272, to the threads of the bolt.
     
     
    Notice :Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and sp
  • rugetirugeti Posts: 54
    Well, since nobody responded to my earlier post I did a little research of my own. I got a Rosen DVD entertainment system installed today and it is one of the best products I have ever purchased. On top of that I found an excellent installer who was able to tie the audio into the XM inputs on the radio as opposed to the FM modulater. Supposedly the result is far superior sound. The installer did an amazing job. The quality of the components and installation make it feel like we're sitting in a jet plane. If anyone lives in SoCal and wants to get more info on the installer I highly recommend them. Let me know.

    As for the wheels, I picked a set of 18" Anteras. The ride quality is too important to us to go with 20"'s. I am going to put on 285/60/18 tires. Does anyone know how much this is going to throw off the speedometer? Is there a way to recalibrate it?
  • txyank1txyank1 Posts: 1,010
    is no more than 10% diff than it was you shoudn't need to recalibrate. Your Dealer can do it or you can buy one of the programmers (IE: Predator or Hypertech) and do it yourself. The programmers aren't cheap but there's lot's more you can do with them too.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    I assume your Tahoe came with 265 70 16 tires from the factory.

    265 70 16 tires must turn between 675 and 681 times to = one mile

    The 285 60 18 tires will take between 663 and 667 revs per mile.

    Using the largest difference (681 VS 663) the difference is only 2.6% - when your speedo says 75 MPH you are really going about 77.

    Even with the stock tires your speedo may very well be off by more than 2 MPH. I went from 265 75 16 to 285 75 16 (99 Z-71) now my speedo reads right on when compared to my hand held GPM.
  • rugetirugeti Posts: 54
    I figured it wouldn't effect it much and there seems to be a better selection of tires at that size compared to the 285/55's.
  • ianshawianshaw Posts: 119
    I don't claim to know much about this - but there was some discussion early in this thread about problems with the suspension when you switch wheels and tires. This is especially true for Tahoes that have the Autoride suspension.

    You might want to check this out and see if your suspension needs to be re-tuned to accommodate your new wheels.
  • rugetirugeti Posts: 54
    Thanks for the heads-up. I looked for and found some of the previous messages. I also called the dealer and spoke with people in Service and Parts. The dealer has dressed up cars in the showroom with the same wheel/tire combos: 285/60/18. Based on discussions with a wheel shop and on previous posts, the height is very close to stock and shouldn't mess anything up.

    If anyone disagrees, let me know.
  • Use this handy dandy sizer to spiff up your rig, and see how much difference the rim/tire combos make

    http://jrsauer.com/Tirecalc.html
  • rugetirugeti Posts: 54
    The tires are going to be 0.85" taller. Can't imagine that even being noticeable.
  • rugeti1rugeti1 Posts: 3
    I picked up a chrome bow tie and went to put it in, but need to get the grill off to see how to get the old one out. I managed to get it almost completely unfastened, but couldn't figure out how it is attached on the far ends in between the headlights. Any ideas?
  • juice22juice22 Posts: 29
    I was curious to know if anyone has checked out EBAY lately. There are two “Denali SS” models out for sale. I like the equipment installed and plan to call the dealership to see if I could get one built. However, I wanted to poll the board first to get some honest feedback regarding the trucks looks, equipment, price, etc….

    Let me know what you think about the “Denali SS”

    Thanks!
  • vik66vik66 Posts: 10
    did anybody have problems with fuel pump? I have GMC Yukon 1997. very nice truck, but there is high pitch sound near vehicle when engine is running. this is fuel pump, but is this OK or not? should i have it replaced or it's normal operational sound?
  • ianshawianshaw Posts: 119
    Juice22 - how did your arbitration go? I'm eager to hear of your experience! Do you have a sparkling new Tahoe in your driveway?
  • I've heard that the sequential fuel injection systems
    on Tahoes and Yukons from 1996 to 1999 are problem
    prone. I would like to find out if this is true. Has anybody had this problem on their vehicle.
  • I had a 2001 Suburban-no problems. My 2003 Tahoe is full of them. The AC makes that annoying swirling noise. My swirl is there constantly. There is a vibration that radiates into the cab from underneath the truck when the AC is on. Between the swirling noise and the vibration, it is most annoying. It has been back to the dealer twice. No fix. The transmission grinds at low speeds when shifting from first to second and it slips once in a bluemoon in first gear. The ignition gets stuck in the on position at times. The dealer will not fix the AC or the Tranny problem. The truck has been at the dealer twice already. They have replaced some parts in the igniton. No fix. I hate the truck. I have already filed a complaint with GM. They are not standing by the truck they built and have closed the file.I am in the process of lemon lawing the truck {FL) and have to bring it back to the dealer two more times, twice for the ac, once for the tranny.Anyone that has the fixes, please e-mail me. Mensanot@aol.com
  • My 2003 also has a rumble only when the A.C. is on and at idle. Two things will stop the problem:slightly racing the engine or turning off the A,C. These engines idle at fairly low R.P.M.
    and it seems that they can`t stand the extra load the Compressor Clutch puts on the engine. Don`t let them tell your truck is the only one that has that problem.
    At times I also have a scraping sound when turning the wheel to the right to back up after a full stop. Waiting for it to happen more often before I take the truck in.
    My new 2003 is also not up to the quality of my old Suburbans. CHEAP.
  • I just got the results back from arbitration yesterday! In summary, I DID NOT GET WHAT I WANTED OR BETTER YET “WHAT I DESERVED”!!!

    The verdict is as follows:

    Give GM 30 days to fix your concerns. When repairs are completed, drive the vehicle for 30 days and if you are not satisfied we will reconveign the hearing and I will come up with my decision.

    This is how it went down:

    The hearing lasted 4 hours. (Wow, it was long) I gave my side of the case; GM gave their side of the case BLAH BLAH BLAH. GM did nothing but put up smoke and mirrors. Their main case was claiming that I purposely left my vehicle in the shop to create a paper trail. Please Note: Every time I put my Yukon Denali in the shop I get a Ford Focus to drive. Why would I NOT want to pick-up my car? Anyhow, I used the following problems to support my case:

    Noisy drive train: The arbitrator drove my vehicle and recognized the problem. She put in her report that the problem is a manufacture defect and that it impairs the safety, use and value of the vehicle.

    Flickering lights: The arbitrator drove my vehicle and recognized the problem. She put in her report that the problem is a manufacture defect and that it impairs the safety, use and value of the vehicle. I also submitted my “Police Warning” issued to me for having a unsafe vehicle. She acted like it was no big deal that I am driving an unsafe vehicle in the laws eyes.

    Tranny hesitates when shifting 1st to 2nd: The arbitrator drove my vehicle and recognized the problem. She put in her report that the problem is a manufacture defect and that it impairs the safety, use and value of the vehicle.

    GM had their rep drive a new Denali to the hearing to support their case. Reason being, GM claims that all my problems are CHARACTERISTICS of all Denalis. After driving my vehicle, we all drove the new Denali that the rep brought. It performed perfectly. No noises from the drive train, no flickering lights, and tranny shifted perfect. The arbitrator commented to GM and myself that my vehicle has several problems and the vehicle GM brought had NO problems.

    Overall, I felt as if I won my case. She recognized all my problems and noticed that the other vehicle (the one GM brought to the hearing) was flawless. Therefore, I was happy because I felt GM’s vehicle helped prove my case. Furthermore, the GM rep stated that he did not want to work on my vehicle for fear of making the problems worse. With all this said the ruling was to allow GM one more chance to fix my truck. Let me state for the record that they have had 3 attempts at fixing my truck and a 4th and FINAL ATTEMPT to fix the truck. Now, the arbitrator wants me to give them a 5th chance to fix the truck.

    Any suggestion would be helpful. I guess that GA Lemon Law is next because I do not want them touching my truck anymore. The BBB works in GM favor!!!
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