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Isuzu Rodeo

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  • anthony2nanthony2n Member Posts: 48
    If you do a search on any isuzu forum (4x4wire, planetisuzoo, etc), you'll find the "squeaking noise in reverse" problem reported. Some blame it on the design of the calipers that allow the pad to move around too much when the pads are worn. Others say that the pad is worn down to the wear tabs which strike the disk. Regardless, its always the rear brakes and replacing with OEM pads does the trick. Sometimes the problem arises when putting in non-oem pads, so go with the dealer pads.
  • anthony2nanthony2n Member Posts: 48
    Whenever transmission problems arise, you should have the transmission fluid flushed as a precaution. The Isuzu transmissions are very sensitive to voltage. So, make sure your battery and alternator are in perfect shape. Cheap rebuilt alternators from local parts stores have been known to trigger the transmission light on these vehicles. Also, check serpentine belt tension. If you have installed car stereo amps that draw lots of current, then remove it and see if this helps. You can try to reset the trans light by removing the negative battery cable for 20 minutes. If the transmission is working fine, I would not worry about it too much. When transmission registers 3 faults it will enter a 'limp mode' to protect itself. In this mode, the trans will stay in 3rd gear all the time. You can still drive it gingerly to a mechanic at that time.
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    Thank you,

    I'll get the brakes checked out. The problem is that none of the brake places will want to deal with OEM pads - they make most of their money on parts that they use. Dealers will charge about $250+ per axle. Is there anything special I need to know about changing rear brakes on Rodeo by myself? Last time I changed brakes by myself was on '89 Tercel, and they were drum brakes.

    Is there anything special I need to keep in mind as I'm dealing with ABS brakes?

    There are no good manuals for this car. The only manual I found covered Rodeos from '91 (I think) to 2004 and their sample vehicle was a '97 rodeo (I think 2WD).
  • anthony2nanthony2n Member Posts: 48
    I haven't had to do my rears yet, but it is harder than on most other cars. Fronts are not too bad, but the parking brake and general design may make it a troublesome job. I would call st charles isuzu and order the pads, then bring them to a mechanic and have him do it. I heard all 4 oem pads (front and rear) cost 100 bucks with free shipping from st charles. This forum won't allow posting of phone number for vendors so search stcharles auto on the web. They're in missouri.
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    I'll call them up. I've called them before for parts and can look up their number. The pads from my local dealer will cost about $60 per axle. The problem is to find anybody who would use the parts that I bring to them. I'll try though. I'll try to take it to brake inspection this week.

    Just out of curiousity I called one of the local dealers here and they told me that the price to for a brake job will be about 2 hours of labor ($105/hour) for each axle + parts. Don't think I'll use them :-)
  • caseylcaseyl Member Posts: 1
    We have a 98 rodeo and just went through this.The dealer charges like 200.00 or so? Just for the part alone.We decided to go to the salvage yard and we purchased one for 106.00.We actually had to take the first one back because it didn't work the rear window.But my husband just took it with him and got one off of a 2003 total coming in and installed it right there and works perfect.Maybe a little bit of trouble but for the money we saved(approx 300 some odd dollars including labor + part) and ease of installing it, it was worth it to us.
  • waldo3waldo3 Member Posts: 4
    I believe my engine is gone...I hear a ticking that gets louder with increase speed.

    Any suggestions on where I can get a used engine.
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    Very interesting experience that I wanted to share with everybody. I took my car to one of the Brakes Plus locations here in Denver and experienced the most straight on attempt to overcharge/overprice/underestimate I've ever seen.

    When I took it in, i complained that the steering wheel pulsates when brakes are applied at high speed and about that squeaking noise I've already mentioned in this forum. I also suggested the take an extra look at rear brakes for that noise. When they called back they said that the front rotors need to be turned (well, duh...) and, therefore, the pads need to be replaced for $159 + $50 rotors + $50 grease packs. They didn't find anything wrong with the rear brakes but he said that he didn't hear any sounds coming from it. I asked him if he got a chance to test drive it and he said no.

    Hmm... Getting frustrated, I asked him to put it back together and test drive it and let me know. After two hours, I called him myself and he said that he did hear the sound (he also said that he just didn't hear first time but did drive it. Hmm...) but didn't know where it was coming from. His guess was it might be coming from e-brake system, but they didn't check it out as they normally don't do it as part of the brake inspection as it's unlikely that it will go bad. When asked if it's possible that the drums or the pads in that system are worn, he said “Yes, but unlikely.” When asked if it may be not aligned, he told me the same thing, while still admitting that's the only possible place the sound might be coming from. He refused to check it as, as he claimed, they didn't have enough time and too many cars in line (they had my truck there for 4 hours at that time).

    When I picked it up and looked at the “suggestions” that were listed in the estimate I noticed they “suggested” I change the shocks and serpentine belt. The belt didn't surprise me too much (except the price tag on it was $115: $50 labor and $65 parts), but shocks did. When asked, he explained that shocks are fine, not leaking or anything but “they” recommend replacing them. I wondered who “they” and his answer was: “Dealers and other such places”. I don't remember seeing “replace shocks” in my maintenance schedule for $60K mi. In fact, i don't remember seeing it in ANY scheduled maintenance plan for any vehicle.

    So, basically, the results of my brake inspection are as follows: they didn't feel like messing too much with the brakes to check it out completely even though the possible problem area was determined.
    They found a $300 problem(front brakes) which the found sufficient to pay for their time.
    They tried to sell me unnecessary parts with the most ridiculous reason.
    AND the overshot dealers prices by a good portion on the belt. (dealer wants $30 for the belt and $50 labor).
  • anthony2nanthony2n Member Posts: 48
    whoa...slow down. A ticking sound can be hydraulic lifters which are known to get noisy in these vehicles. Try changing oil to synthetic Mobil 1 0w-30. Or, the ticking could be caused by the timing belt tensioner. You got a lot to look at before pricing out a new engine.
  • anthony2nanthony2n Member Posts: 48
    I hate to over generalize, but I've heard so many stories like yours that I generally stay away from these automotive chains, including midas and the like. I would get recommendations on a good mechanic and go that route. Go to your local library and check out 'consumer's checkbook'. They're like a localized consumer reports. They have ratings on local auto repair shops. Good place to start.
  • waldo3waldo3 Member Posts: 4
    Thnaks anthony2n. Upon further inspection I noticed some burns around the spask plugs. Turns out the coils were burn up. The noise sounded really bad though.
  • waldo3waldo3 Member Posts: 4
    Any suggestions on replacing the car alarm remote on my isuzu Rodeo 1998.
  • anthony2nanthony2n Member Posts: 48
    There are a whole bunch of car alarm remotes on ebay. Buy one that matches your old one and reprogram. They should come with reprogramming instructions.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Rear brakes are just as easy as the front. There is no parking brake mechanism built into the brake system on the Isuzus.

    The rear parking brake is a separate drum-in disc design that doesn't effect changing the pads, nor the rotors.

    -mike
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    It looks like it's time for me to get a hand on changing transmssion and differential oil. Anybody has done that?

    On 4WD i should have 2 differentials, right? Are the plugs (drain and fill) located so that it's relatively easy to find them? Any special tools I'll need to drain and refill that? Anything I need to keep in mind as far as being extra caution when doing it?

    Oh, the truck is '01 Rodeo 4WD.
  • dcmike1dcmike1 Member Posts: 1
    I have 85k miles on my isuzu, she has been good to me just an alternator in the 5 years I have had her.

    Question, I have read here the timing belt can wait til 100k, but then I know the suggested by the owner manual is 75-90k. I am about to make the annual trip to Florida for the Holidays but should I be worried about braking down? Should I change it before the trip?

    Any adive she seems to be using oil some, i just put in some slick 50 to see if that will help. Anyone else have this problem and solved it?

    Thanks.
    M
  • swifty088swifty088 Member Posts: 1
    Have a 94 rodeo, 3.2 liter, the up shift lite keeps coming on in fifth gear and after 5 miles of driving the check engine light comes on and stays on until i let off the throttle then goes out and soon as i push the accelerator it comes back on, vehicle runs great no problems with the lights on , anybody got a clue what i can check, thanks John
  • ctsxxctsxx Member Posts: 2
    I have a question for you or anyone that would like to anwser it.

    I am looking at buying my 17 year old daughter a 1995 Isuzu Rodeo with 106,000 miles but don't know anything about them. I was told that the factory rod bearing go out around 100,000 miles other than that I have not been able to learn much about them.

    so I am asking you all are they reliable,any problems I should know about, would it make a good vehicle for my daughter?

    Thanks for you help.

    Carl
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Factors to Consider When Choosing Your Teenager's Car

     

    Teen Driver Safety Series - Part Four: A Car for Your Teen

     

    Steve, Host
  • anthony2nanthony2n Member Posts: 48
    I own a 95.5 Rodeo (bought it new) and it has been very reliable. Problems have included dead starter, broken speedometer cable, overcharging alternator (there is a recall for this now). That's it. Not bad for nearly 10 years of ownership.

     

    The hydraulic lifters on these engines tend to tick, so on-time oil changes are a must. Also, many of these engines burn (lose) oil and if your teenager doesn't keep her eye on it, you could end up with a siezed engine. Mine loses about 1/2 quart every 3k miles. I've heard some lose 1 quart every 1k miles.

     

    With 101K miles, make sure the timing belt and water pump have been replaced, otherwise expect to pay an additional $600 to $1000 to make that happen. Make sure the transmission fluid has been replaced in the past.

     

    Overall, I like the vehicle a lot. The thing that will make your experience as good as mine rests on how well that vehicle has been maintained. Safety wise, frontal crash test results on this vehicle wasn't very good. On the other hand, this Suv handles better than many other suvs, in my opinion. But, with any SUV there is a roll-over risk which you should consider given a teenager, with teenager-judgements, will be driving. I only get around 15mpg in city driving and maybe 17 in highway driving. That's something to consider too.

     

    Also note that Isuzu vehicles have very low resale value so shop around, you may be able to pick up a newer rodeo than you expect.
  • ctsxxctsxx Member Posts: 2
    Thank you, I appreciate your input. sounds like your's has been a pretty good vehicle. I am suprised they don't get better gas mileage.

    Thanks,

    Carl
  • wjfwjf Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1991 Isuzu Rodeo 4 wheel drive. I took it to a mechanic yesterday because when the vehicle gets warm and it idles the pressure needle on the gauge goes down to "0" and the oil light comes on. They took the oil pan off to replace the oil pump and discovered that the pump was working fine so they put the pan back on. I am sure they did some other things also to check it. The oil level is fine and I get regular oil changes but this problem started a couple days ago. Is my engine in danger? Can anyone help me? What is the possible cause of this problem. When I am driving along the gauge is fine but when it idles it goes to the zero and the oil light comes on. I am desperate for some advice since I know nothing at all about vehicles.
  • 97rodeo97rodeo Member Posts: 12
    Just signed up on this forum. It was nice to find others to chat with about Rodeos.

    I bought a 97 4WD 3.2L Rodeo in 99 with 23K. (Always loved the body style). After reading through the post here, it was nice to find that "problems" I have are shared by many others.

    I have a little over 200,000 on mine now.

    Leaks oil like a sieve, fuel gauge is off, wind noise, lifter tick, oil pressure up and down, stripped lug nuts, out of round steel wheels .

    This is my praise part,

    I drive close to 450 miles a week and have never been left stranded by my Rodeo. With the mileage she does, there is no way that things will not wear out. Third set of tires, 4th set of shocks, 3rd set of brake pads, 3rd set of drive belts, gallons of oil.

    In all this, I have yet to replace any major componants of the chassis, body, engine etc.

    Some of the things I do to cope with the quirks:

    Oils leaks, I give up. I was using Mobil One, a bit pricey to keep the lifter quite, so I use a bit a Marvel Mystery Oil when I refill the oil when its low. If it starts up ticking, I shut it off and restart it, most of the time that fixes it.

    I go by the odometer rather then the fuel gauge, I get 19 miles to the gallon no matter what and I know how much fuel I have used.

    Mechanics have checked the oil pressure dilemma and scratched their heads. As long as I am checking the oil, I stop worrying about it. My thought is; how could it have pressure with the leaks?? Flow through oil system!!

    I had my tire dealership I deal with paranoid about not using hand tools when installing the tires. After replacing at least 12 different lug nuts and studs and them buying them, they make sure they do it right. They are not cheap.

    I finally put on Trooper alloy wheels. The original steel wheels were getting to the point where the tires couldn't be balanced. Great decision, smooth as glass.

    More of my story,

    I recently had the timing belt, tensioner and the water pump etc replaced while it was opened up. My friend who did the work assures me it could drive across the country. I believe it! He said that as long as I could live with the leaks,(the underside will never rust) and the tick, the engine should last quite awhile longer. The exterior and interior are in great shape.

    He mentioned there was a crate engine from GM that had a bit more guts that could be dropped in. Anyone heard of that? I haven't pursued it in depth with him yet.

    I am not the best preventative maintenance guy and I don't follow a perfect maintenance schedule. For that, my Rodeo has been very forgiving to me. Maybe mine was built on a Weds or something.

    Thanks for letting me bend an ear or two. I really had not thought about a forum to share experiences with over the years. Glad I got here!
  • wjfwjf Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1991 Isuzu Rodeo 4 wheel drive. I took it to a mechanic yesterday because when the vehicle gets warm and it idles the pressure needle on the gauge goes down to "0" and the oil light comes on. They took the oil pan off to replace the oil pump and discovered that the pump was working fine so they put the pan back on. I am sure they did some other things also to check it. The oil level is fine and I get regular oil changes but this problem started a couple days ago. Is my engine in danger? Can anyone help me? What is the possible cause of this problem. When I am driving along the gauge is fine but when it idles it goes to the zero and the oil light comes on. I am desperate for some advice since I know nothing at all about vehicles.

     

    My main problem I guess now is that in this state we are required to get a smog test before we sell a vehicle and it will not pass smog with the oil light coming on.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Does your idle speed drop too? You may have a problem with the idle control air valve. You might also consider using a heavier oil (10W-30 or 40) on an older vehicle. In any case, you should have your mechanic directly measure the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge.

     

    Good luck!

     

    tidester, host
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    10-40 for sure

    you could even go to

    15-50 if need be.

     

    -mike
  • gprodickgprodick Member Posts: 36
    Is it possible that you have a faulty oil pressure sending unit? This could give you an erroneous reading.
  • 97rodeo97rodeo Member Posts: 12
    I saw a Rebuild/ Remanufacturing company that suggested buying a used engine rather then a reman/rebuild because of the lack of material for grinding/ honing etc. which would thin the engine out and reduce its life span.

    On the other hand, there are "hundreds" of engine reman/rebuild companies that say nothing about that, and will sell you a remanufactured engine.

    With 200,000 miles on my Rodeo, I would like to start thinking about a new heart for her.

    So, any ideas or knowledge about this? Rebuild the engine I have, a used engine or a remanufactured engine? Thanks...
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Good question - was this in reference only to a Rodeo engine or any replacement engine?

     

    Try asking over in Got a Quick, Technical Question? too.

     

    Steve, Host
  • 97rodeo97rodeo Member Posts: 12
    Steve,

    Below is the site URL that got me started (confused) on this.

    www.rebuilt-auto-engines.com

    It appears that some engines are OK to use a reman engine and others a used engine. Even the 02 Explorer shows that it should be replaced with a used rather than a reman. engine.

    The 6VD1 in the 97 Rodeo happens to show used.

    I also have a 91 Isuzu pick-up, 235,000 miles, and it shows that a reman engine is OK to use.

    As I had mentioned, this was the only site that talks about weather to use one or the other. No other sites I have looked at mention it.

    I will post my question on the other site and let you know if I come up with anything.

    Thanks and Happy new year! pjs
  • wjfwjf Member Posts: 4
    yes my idle also drop. The needle only hits the "zero" after the engine is hot and the truck is standing still (idling)
  • wjfwjf Member Posts: 4
    thanks - are they expensive to replace or can I do it myself? I am not a mechanic of any kind but I can usually replace what I take apart if it is easily accessible on the out side of the engine.
  • 97rodeo97rodeo Member Posts: 12
    Steve,

    This is the response from Mr_Shiftright.

    Good common sense. pjs

     

    It's worth paying attention to that. There are definitely some engines that have not had a great rate of success with over-boring. Personally I don't see the sense in putting a brand new engine in such an old (mileage-wise) vehicle, since the rest of the car still has 200K on it and other major components are at risk.

      

    You might be able to buy an entire, very decent lower mileage 97 Rodeo for close the price of an expertly built engine. Figure a used engine, by the time you've done everything necessary "while we're in there", is a $2,500 proposition at least.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Thanks. I noticed that my Quest has the same no-rebuild recommendation, so if it dies during its second 100,000 miles, I guess I'll retire it.

     

    Steve, Host
  • kekskeks Member Posts: 6
    I have 95 isuzu rodeo 4x4 LS V6 110,000m on it does anybody know if its easy to replace the broken linkage on the wiper. i'll try calling the dealer and get an estimate. many thankx, uncleto.
  • lastchildlastchild Member Posts: 2
    ....been reading about changing shocks to smooth out ride of rodeo...i've got 2000 w/ v6...put in monromatics...didn't help much..ride still bumpy..then i checked the air pressure on tires...245/70r16 coopers...pressure was 35 psi..which is psi stated on side of tire...isuzu recommends 26 psi...dropped pressure to 28 psi...ride is MUCH better...just a heads up...
  • r0de099r0de099 Member Posts: 35
    I have a 99 rodeo.Four months ago i changed my shock.I took it to the shop in my area and i ask for monroe matic plus and they charge me $200.00

    for four shocks.What i notice until now that the shocks is to hard,when it hit a bump or pot hole i dont feel the bounce it feels like the old one.Im suspecting that they put different shock in it not the monroe or maybe monroe matic plus is not a good shock after all.What do you guys think?
  • r0de099r0de099 Member Posts: 35
    My brake feels so hard when i step on it.Is it normal or i need a brake job?
  • lastchildlastchild Member Posts: 2
    i put monroematics on 2000 rodeo w/v6...ride was still harsh...then i checked tire pressure...it was at max recommended for tires...cooper 245 70 r/16...35 psi....isuzu recommends 26 psi...lowered it to 28 psi and the ride is MUCH BETTER...just a heads up
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    I just picked up my Rodeo from an oil change, and, amongs other things, they recommended I replace the PCV valve.

     

    Does anybody know where it's located and what's implied to replace it?

     

    Another thing is the fuel filter. I can probably locate it, but with EFI I better bleed the pressure somehow before I disconnect it - otherwise, I'll probably end up covered in gasoline (unpleasant experience from changing the fuel filter on '89 Maxima). Anybody got any ideas on how to do that?

     

    BTW, it looks like Haynes doesn't make any books for '01 models. The only book I was able to find covers all Rodeos from '89 to '02. Needless to say, I couldn't find much of usefull information. There're gotta be Tech CDs that mechanics use, but I couldn't find anything like that for sale. Any ideas?
  • anthony2nanthony2n Member Posts: 48
    1. The PCV valve sits on the valve cover. It has a rubber hose attached to it with a clamp. Remove the hose and pull the valve out of its seat. 5 minute job to replace.

     

    2. To relieve fuel pressure from the system, remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse panel in the engine compartment. Crank the engine over for 30 seconds. Also, remove the gas cap and negative battery cable (just in case).

     

    3. The factory manuals the isuzu mechanics use are the helm manuals. Sometimes you can find them on ebay. Or, go to the Helm website (helminc.com)
  • Boris2Boris2 Member Posts: 177
    Thanks for the info! I'll check Helm Website.

     

    I forgot to reply to the posts concerning bumpy rides on Rodeo. Yes, if you lower your tire pressure it will make the ride softer. However, your gas/mileage will suffer and the tires will wear off sooner. I know Isuzu recommends lower tire pressure than Discount Tires put in, but I'd rather have better gas/mileage, better handling and less wear on the tires. That's just my opinion though.

     

    I did try to lower the pressure when I was 4WDing on sand and I forgot to inflate the tires after that. I can't say I was too happy with the nandling I got.
  • mysteruimysterui Member Posts: 1
    I currently have a 2002 S 2WD Rodeo. It's so vastly underpowered for me, and I'm thinking about trading it in for a 2002 S V6 4WD. I'm wondering if I can still even find one, or if the difference in money is worth it.
  • anthony2nanthony2n Member Posts: 48
    I take it you're talking about going from the 4 cylinder S model to the V6 model. A vehicle of that weight being powered by a 4 cylinder 130hp engine has never made any sense to me. I'm sure you'll notice a big difference when you test drive the V6 with 205 HP. In my area, there are plenty for very reasonable prices. Test drive and see.
  • lonestarlonestar Member Posts: 15
    Looking for an SUV to pull a camper we'll be buying. I can buy a leftover 2WD with the new 3.5L for around $18K (plus/minus). I know the Rodeo is "old tech" compared to the new SUVs on the market...but I'm looking for the biggest bang for my buck in the new-car segment. Just worried the "negative" feedback in this forum may outweigh "positive" ownership experiences with the Rodeo.
  • atlgaxtatlgaxt Member Posts: 501
    I had a '99 Rodeo. It was a good and dependable vehicle. Since I drive a pickup, we figured we did not need two trucks so we switched my wife to a crossover (Subaru). If you are looking for a good, basic SUV, I would not hesitate to go for a leftover Rodeo. However, depending upon how it is equipped, I would think you might be able to do a little better than $18k at this point.
  • r0de099r0de099 Member Posts: 35
    I need to know how much it cost for a power window motor? Can i install it myself or i need a mechanic to install it?
  • anthony2nanthony2n Member Posts: 48
    A power window regulator runs around 100 bucks on ebay. It's a do-it-yourself job if you have some basic mechanical ability. Often on these vehicles it is not the motor that dies but the various linkages and guides that fall out of position. Remove the door panel and check all the parts inside before putting out money for unneeded parts.
  • upmarkupmark Member Posts: 2
    I have a 92 Rodeo that has 87,000 miles and the

    check engine light has been coming on intermittently, plus my gas mileage has dropped to 10 mpg. My mechanics have been unable to find a problem (with the computer sensor). Other than that it runs fine. Therefore, I am looking at a 2001 to replace it, unless someone knows a possible fix. Any suggestions, or is it time to replace?

     

    TIA.
  • anthony2nanthony2n Member Posts: 48
    Find a new mechanic. Check engine light problems are not difficult to diagnose or fix. It may be emissions-related resulting in the lower gas mileage. Getting it fixed will likely be less expensive then a new car, and who is to say the new one won't have a check engine light on at some point.
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