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After he test drive it he called me and says that brake in the back is lockin up and i need to replace the front calipers which is cost me $460.00.including the pads.But after he finish and i test drive the car the brake pedal is still stiff nothing change.He said its normal but for me i think the pedal is not suppose to be that stiff its suppose to have a little softness in it.I dont know if this guy just makes me change caliper even though its not the real problem.What do you guys can think any idea?
bought spark plugs from the dealer check and clean pcv valve . nothing i did seems to work
auto zone cleared the code another mechanic aldso cleared the code and it just came back .
can some one please tell me what next to do thank you .
My C/E light has been on on my '98 Rodeo for a solid 2 years. It is also a P0440. I tried the gas cap - no dice. I am convinced it's the EVAP canister back by the gas tank. The EVAP systems on early OBD-II vehicles are often too sensitive. Eventually I'll get around to it but the dealer wants a ridiculous amount for the parts and I'm leary of ordering on-line and having to deal with the hassles of returns if they send me the wrong part (can't count how many times I've had it happen at a walk-in parts store).
Also, my '98 is the biggest pile of garbage I've ever seen or known about. It's only got 75K of the best maintained life a car could hope for and it will soon be on it's 4th set of intake manifold gaskets (first replacement by dealer, 2nd and soon to be 3rd replacement by me), it goes through at least 3 quarts of oil between oil changes (3,000 miles - I think it's the head gasket, but I haven't conclusively determined that), the EVAP canister problem described above, and about half the power windows switches on the driver's door haven't worked since right after it came off warranty (what a coincidence).
While it was under warranty, it spent a total of a month at the dealer in 3 years. That's the only piece of justice in it - when we mailed Isuzu and pointed out that it had spent a month in the shop, they sent us a check for one months payment. It was all little stuff, except for the intake manifold gasket and the fuel pump (which the dealer screwed up and had to re-do) so we were never approaching lemon law status but it was, and still is, irritating.
Has anyone here heard of similar problems with the manifold gaskets? When I realized what was causing the problem this time I first thought I must have screwed up the job last time, but now I've realized it's right on schedule - every 2-3 years or so. First set went '98 to '00, second set went '00 to late '02, and now ready again in early '05.
Also, has anyone replaced the fuel pump and/or fuel gauge sending unit? I know I need a new sending unit and I suspect the fuel pump is going (that will make three of them as well).
Any guidance would be appreciated.
:lemon:
Thanks for letting me vent.
Was it a P0440?
The information I found for that error (I have had it for a long time), lead to changing the gas cap (no dice), and now has me believing the problem is the EVAP canister by the gas tank. Testing to confirm that before replacing takes more sophisticated tools than I have so eventually I'm going to end up ordering one
(I found one online for about half the dealer cost) and crossing my fingers as I won't deal with dealerships for anything but a purchase and I don't know a mechanic I trust either.
Also if I may ask...where is the jack? I cant find it.
Thanks
JeffG
2xw, with 26,000 miles on it.
your advice is great appreciated and i will follow your suggestion to try. hopefully, it would be working out. I will email to you and thank you again.
best regards
kiaping
The sympton you describe here sounds a lot like my current problem with the intake manifold gasket.
With hood open, try to let the car idle. I know it's likely to stall so have someone in it to give it a little gas to keep it running. If it is the intake manifold gasket, you might be able to hear a hissing sound from the vacuum leak. If you're careful you might even be able to find it by moving your fingers near the hissing. Unfortunately if you can't hear anything it doesn't mean anything so you have to get lucky to be able to tell this way. Make sure to watch your hands and fingers around hot an moving parts. I'm not going to describe the other way to find a vacuum leak as I cringe whenever I see it done.
If it is the intake manifold gasket, it's not as bad a job to DIY as it might look like if you have some basic mechanical ability. It will be nasty expensive by a dealer or mechanic though. There's a fair amount of grunt work involved in taking stuff off to get the manifold off so the labor cost will be somewhat hefty.
Also, if it is the manifold gasket, it's only going to get worse. Eventually you'll have a miss in it and it will be pretty much undrivable until repaired properly.
Also, I know it sounds stupid, but make sure you've replaced the air filter and fuel filter recently. Always try the simplest things first.
In the mean time, complain like crazy to him. Not that that ever gets you anything, but it also doesn't hurt.
1. suction out as much brake fluid from the reservoir as you can
2. disconnect nuts that connect the brake lines to the master cylinder. caution: brake fluid will pour out of the brake lines when you do this.
3. remove the mounting nuts that hold the master cylinder to the brake booster.
4. Installation is the reverse of removal
5. After installation, you need to bleed the master cylinder of air. Have someone pump the brake pedal a few times, then press the pedal to the floor. Loosen one fitting nut to allow air and fluid to escape. Do this till the fluid coming out is clear (no bubbles). Repeat with the other fitting.
It's an easy job. Use caution as brake fluid will strip paint. Don't let contaminants enter the brake lines.
For some reason, the left side of the engine (when you look at it from the front of the car - where the oil fill plug is) is very dirty on my '01 Rodeo. When I say dirty, I mean something that looks like an oil and burn residue. It doesn't look like the spark plugs are bad - i didn't take them out to check them, but it runs very smooth. I wanted to wash the whole thing and see if it starts getting grease again. This way I can figure out if it's one of the seals or just spilled oil during the oil change.
I know that you can somehow wash the whole engine compartment with the garden hose, but I am not sure what I need to disconnect (i suspect the battery needs to go first) and what else I need to cover and how.
If anybody have any ideas on why that particular side of the engine might be very grease and dirty, i'd appreciate it as well.
The other side is simply dusty - VERY dusty, but not grease at all.
I'll take it to Dealer then to have them take a look at it. I just called them and they said it should be covered by Powertrain warranty.
because my car only has 25000miles and within warrenty repair. there is no charge for me. it was heard that it is common problem for rodeo car...broken intake gasket.
My truck has 80K+ miles and is no longer covered by any warranties. I have taken it to a Honda dealer twice already, but they have not fixed the problem (and I am out of pocket $700 so far!) - and the problem is getting worse.
Did fixing the intake manifold gasket (leak?) correct the problems? Any other suggestions?
Also, what is the torque spec when installing the new plugs? At work now, changing them here today, but unfortunately left my manual at home.
Thanks!
Shawn
I changed at 90K not b/c they became bad but I just was afraid they will seised in the heads after 4yr.
So I can say I used it for about 55K and no problem.
Thanks - John
and if your wondering 1996, black, v6, 4wd, me in it !