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I have a '97 Passport. I very rarely use the 4WD, and I'm trying to squeeze every mpg I can out of it. Are there are locking front hubs available for these SUVs? I checked the Warn website and the only hubs they showed for Isuzu fit the Trooper, not the Rodeo.
Thanks!
Mike
Thanks
Mike
This car has been a great value and I would buy another.
V/R
Jon
I took the SUV out of the service centre and onto the Interstate. At around 40m/hr I noticed a constant low rubbing sound coming from the front wheels. When I decrease the speed, the sound is gone. I thought it was due to the new brake pads. After three weeks the sound still remains. I took the SUV back to the same service center and this time they inspect the vehicle and tell me that I need to do the following :
1. change the inner and outer bearings.($190 + labor)
2. replace/repack the upper and lower ball joints.($200 + labor)
They are going to charge me atleast $800 including labor. I personally feel that it is a rip-off. When I pointed out that the sound was not there before the brake change....they tell me that 'something' could have 'shifted' during the change!!
I was surfing the net to find some advice and I luckily found this forum. Please please advice me on what I need to do. Thanks.
This rubbing noise was not there before the brake pads were changed. From your reply, it looks like the rubbing noise started only because the mechanic did not put it back together correctly after turning the rotor. Is that correct? Can I go back to the shop and demand that they correct the problem because they had started it in the first place? I just want to get the facts right so that I have enough ammo to face them!
Thanks again!
There is "Stop,let's talk about brakes" forum in Maintanence section here on Edmunds so you can read a lot about this subject. Yes, I think they did not put it back together correctly.As I told you before it somewhat tricky, for example preload value for hub nut 4 lb and there is a procedure to achive the right preload, somebody actually use fish scale. Of course, you can go back and demand anything you want... I wouldn't hold my breath...a lot.
Good luck.
I would still be suspicious of the alternator. Many people have had theirs tested and it passes, but replacing it ultimately fixes the problem. This truck is very finicky about voltage. Check wiring to alternator. And, replace with OEM unit. Aftermarket (parts store) alts don't hack it.
tidester, host
Thankyou very very much for all the advice. Armed with all the knowledge you had given me, I confronted the shop. They agreed to do the repacking free of cost!!!
This forum is the best!! You are a star! I am so glad I came to the right place for advice. I was able to convince the shop that it was their mistake only bcos I was given the right advice by you. Thanks again.
Hey, another Edmunds success story!
Many thanks,
-John
Ask you mechanic what the result were of the compression test on each cylinder. IF any of the cylinders has much lower compression, it could be worn piston rings.
BTW, do you know if oil has been changed regularly at a recent interval? Also, has the oil level been checked regularly? If it has gotten very low at least once, then there could be excessive wear from that.
If you decide it needs major work, you might consider trading in the 'problem' on something else instead of putting out a couple thousand on a replacement or rebuild.
What do you think?
I also am having problems with my window wipers and my fuel gauge. Do you know if anything is covered under warranty?
My step-daughter has a 2002 Rodeo...pretty much stock. I just replaced the front brake pads Saturday. She had complained about them squeeling recently. Then the brake light came on. Brake fluid was just under the add mark. The front pads were down to maybe 30% left...it did not look as if the shims were making contact to produce the 'time to change me squeel', but I changed them anyway. 31,000 miles...I'll probably look at the rear brakes soon. Not sure if they are disk or drum...completly covered so it looks to be to be drums, but the NAPA warehouse said they showed pads not shoes in the catalog.
I was a little disappointed in the Rodeo's brakes. I have a 2000 Trooper LS 2/wd. I just changed front and rear pads about 6 weeks ago at 91,000+ miles and they would have lasted probably another 20,000.
Snow
did you get any help on your sifter issue? I have developed the same thing within the last two days and noticed your post on the board. This comes on the heels of having the ignition key stick in the ignition switch for threee or four days then suddenly decide to come free and all works fine now. Let me know if you have any hints on what is causing the problem.
yguy
My '01 Rodeo has almost 80K on it and i am getting ready to replace front brakes. They are not squelling yet, but the truck starts to shake when braking at high speed.
The rear brakes are still very good and will probably not need to be replaced for another 30-50K
I'm NOT a mechanic and I live in a foreign country where nobody has computer diagnostics here for my Isuzu Rodeo 2004. The vehicle has 5,000 miles on it. Previously, the 4WD would work fine. At some point, the 4WD would not turn off when I turned the 4WD switch off. The only way to turn off the 4wd would be to stop the vehicle, turn off the engine, and then turn off the 4WD switch. This worked for a while. Then, I turned the engine off 1 day, turned off the 4WD switch, and the Check 4WD Indicator Light lit up. The indicator light has been on for many months now, and the 4WD won't turn on at all now. Any ideas of what is wrong? What is the fix? Thanks so much!
NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID Number: 98V170001
Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:WIRING:HARNESS:FRONT:UNDERHOOD
Manufacturer: ISUZU MOTOR, LIMITED
Year: 1998
Make: ISUZU TRUCK
Model: RODEO
Manufactured From: JUL 1997 To: FEB 1998
Year of Recall: '98
Type of Report: Vehicle
Summary:
Vehicle Description: Sport utility vehicles. A ground connection terminal was not properly crimped in the supplier's engine wiring harness manufacturing line. This improper crimping process can leave an impression on the terminal that will eventually cause a stress fracture. Q: If a terminal is fractured, the powertrain control module
(PCM) can receive an erroneous signal indicating a high vehicle speed, thereby causing the PCM to cut the fuel, causing a 'no-start' condition, or a possible engine stall.
Any ideas what is wrong? Any help would be appreciated!
Mulcher1
common for your year model.Take it to an Isuzu dealer.If this is the problem,they should be able to diagnose it quickly.
at the same time.
Any Help is GREATLY APPRECIATED!
Any help is appreciated. Thanks
the t-belt breaks.If you have a 4 cylinder,then you will damage the engine if the belt breaks.You should replace the timing belt,tensioner, and waterpump at one time with your mileage because they tend to fail at around 80k miles.The price seems reasonable if the waterpump is included.Check with an Isuzu dealer because they usually have a timing belt package price that is very reasonable and the parts are factory.
Sounds like it is going to cost you more than the vehicle is worth, especially given all the trouble you have had with it.