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The filler plug on mine is on the pan, just in a a corner. Some years have it on the side though which would make the whole process easier.
Ziemann
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
I dropped off my Rodeo at around noon two days ago for an oil change and my outside mirror control unit wasn't working right: instead of being 8-way it become 7-way with upper right not working. I called them 20 min before they close to find out if they even got a chance to work on it and was told that the car is ready and they just forgot to call me back. The oil change was done, but the control unit was not fixed because "They were able to adjust it any way they wanted to." When I asked the service manager to get out of his office and try moving it in "south-east" direction he said that all the techs are gone and I can leave it if I wanted to for another day, but "they were able to adjust it any way they wanted to." I just gave up and asked them to lock the key inside so that I can pick it up later on. Next morning, I found a huge oil stain on the garage floor... Since the oil level was fine, I thought that they just forgot to take the rubber pan off before draining oil and there was some extra oil in it. However, when I was leaving work that day, I found another stain on the parking lot and took it back and left it overnight asking them to finish it up by noon. They, of course, never called me back and when I called them at around 1 p.m. the service manager said that the technician was gone for lunch and there is no way to find out the status. The technicians, apparently, have pretty long lunches over there, since he left me a message that the car is ready at almost 4 p.m. I called to find out what the problem was but couldn't get any straight answer. They way I understood it from his mumbling is that they either forgot to replace the gasket on the drain plug or used incorrect one. Since this is not the first problem I have with that dealer, I really starting to get a feeling that they just use my car to train their technicians for oil changes and this time, they had whole bunch of high school drop-outs to train :-)
If anybody is in Denver area and want to find out which Isuzu dealer I strongly recommend to avoid, let me know :-)))
-mike
I got mine LS for 24K + taxes, title, doc etc. with my financing a year ago. That was 2001 of course. And it only took me 4 hours to negotiate :-) They originally wanted over $28K.
Congratulations on your LS!
I have a 97 Honda Passport which is the same as the Isuzu Rodeo with a Honda badge. It has 87,000 miles and my old extended warranty expired last month. I can get another extended warranty for 24,000 miles or 24 months for $775.00 with 0 deductible $675.00 with $100 deductible. It covers Powertrain, (Engine, fuel pump, trans, transfer unit 4x4, drive axles, drive shaft) Steering, Electrical, Fuel Inj., Cooling system, Air conditioning, Front suspension, Brakes, ABS, Seals and Gaskets, Car Rental, travel expenses. I'm planning to keep the truck for a while. I also keep it in good shape and maintenance schedule covered. If I buy it, I will be covered for 111,000 miles. What do you guys think? Should I just go with faith that nothing major should happen or go for safe? Is that too much price? I can't get 36/36 anymore coz of the mileage. thanks in advance to all the response. Jspikey...
If all else fails (the light comes back on) I heard that Pep boys or checkers or the like is offering free coding reading (normal cost to read the codes is 70.00) Best of luck!
-Ryan
-mike
What do you guys thing??
-mike
You can look in the "recall" section of edmunds and pull the recall #, also could call Isuzu and give them to VIN # and find out.
-mike
So did you ever get the warranty? I am in the same boat. I have about 5000 miles left on my drive train. Could you send me some info on where to buy the extended warranty. I believe it is through a broker, correct? Thanks for your help.
email: lookie4me@yahoo.com
The Rodeo is a 4-cyl. standard with 2WD, has 66K miles, and seems to be in good condition. We've gotten down to $6100, is this a good deal? Most of the posts I've read indicate the '98 was a problem, haven't seen much on 97's.
We're going back Tuesday, any advise before then ?
-mike
http://forums.vmag.com/suvrodeo0300/messages/9229.html
BUT I CAN SEEM TO FIND INTAKE MANIFOLDS FOR MY POWER PLANT; DOES ANYONE HAVE INFO OR SUGGESTION.
-mike
The really sad part is that I still owe about $6,000 on the car. If the dealer won't fix it, it's going to be might painful to make those last few payments while I don't have the use of the car. Anybody got any suggestions on what to do if the factory rep decides not to play nice? Would bursting into tears help?
If not, there are options. I had my engine rebuilt after swamping it. Fortunately insurance covered it, about $7K. Before I got word that it was covered, I shopped around, one option was putting in an old chevy 350, but trans and computer work would have been 10K. I found a place that would take it out, send it out and have it rebuilt for around $2500. I bargained with the shop and got the price down $1000 from $3500. Wait and see, and then start shopping around, there are places that rebuild engines cheaper than 10,000.
-mike
Now on a more personal note. My 95 Rodeo is acting like it is time for a new clutch. Anyone done the work on a Rodeo b4. I have done several clutches, so I am not all that worried. I would just like to know if there is anything special to do or watch out for on the Rodeo.
Thanks, Chris.
-mike
As for the 6-CD changer I'm not sure it was std on the particular trim you bought. All of the stereos are setup with buttons for CD players even if they don't come with em (my '97 Rodeo had CD buttons, but no CD player) Also if you bought it used, they *could* take out the 6-cd changer, it's not like you were buying a new car.
-mike
-mike
As far as CD-Changer, LS comes with single CD as far as I remember. When I bought mine, I didn't really have any choices rather than going with CD changer which I didn't need much, but dealer said that even though they come with single CD by default, it's very hard to get them without changer. That's exactly the reason why there are not too many LS's with single CD over there.
The main problem is that cars today are sealed so tightly (try closing your door with and without a window open) that as the hot air expands in the car it has no where to go (if all the windows are closed). So over time if there is a weak point (scored glass) it will put stress on it. Solution? Open open a window (just a bit) to allow the hot air out.
For the TSB check www.alldata.com
here is what I found:
IB00-S009 FEB 00 Tailgate glass - Breakage After Tint Film Installation
So if you still have some warrenty left and if it was installed by the dealer (or else where before you bought it) then take it to the dealer and with the TSB and say, "I would like my free window please"
good luck!
Some manufacturers prefer to limit access to TSBs; one reason (supposedly) being so the owners won't go to the service manager with a list of things to be fixed when their car may not be broken (often the TSB may only apply to a limited number of a certain model, but "informed" customers will insist on an unneeded fix).
Whether something gets fixed after the warranty expires depends a lot on the dealer and manufacturer. Having a complaint on record should help in that regard, and a TSB on point is good extra ammo, but there are no guarantees.
Some people like to track the TSBs closely so they can mention a problem to the dealer at a regular service (within the warranty period), and when the dealer says they can't reproduce the problem, mention that they read that there was a TSB out that dealt with it, and please research it. Then they're more likely to get the fix, even though they were fibbing about the problem.
food for thought...
Steve, Host
I JUST WANTED EVERYONE TO KNOW THAT I AM VERY HAPPY WITH MY RODEO. I'VE OWNED TWO OTHER SUVS, 2001 FORD EXPLORER SPORT, AND A 99 LANDROVER DISCOVERY. I HAD TROUBLE WITH BOTH OF THEM. I ENJOY KNOWING THAT I CAN GO TO MY TRUCK EVERY MORNING AND KNOW THAT IT WILL START AND GET ME TO WHERE I NEED TO GO. I HAD HERD SO MANY GOOD THINGS ABOUT RODEOS. I ALSO HAVE A FEW FRIENDS WITH RODEOS.
SO FAR I HAVE REPLACED THE STANDERD STEEL WHEELS WITH FACTORY ALLOYS. THEY LOOK BETTER AND ARE EASY TO CLEAN AND TAKE CARE OF. I HAVE TINTED ALL THE WINDOWS, AND HAD A PIONEER PREMIER CD PLAYER INSTALLED. I ALSO HAD KEYLESS ENTRY ADDED.
MY NEXT PROJECT IS GOING TO BE THE RIDE QUALITY. I TOO THINK IT IS TERRABLE. I SPENT ALOT OF TIME ON THESE BOARDS TRYING TO FIND OUT WHAT KIND OF SHOCKS AND I HAVE DECIDED TO GO WITH MONRO MATIC PLUS. I RECIEVED THEM FROM A-1 SHOCKS AND PLAN ON INSTALLING THEM IN A FEW DAYS. I WILL LET EVERYONE KNOW WHAT I THINK OF THEM SOON.
I AM VERY HAPPY WITH MY TRUCK OVER ALL, ITS A GOOD TRUCK.
I ALSO WANTED EVERYONE TO KNOW HOW MUCH I APPRECIATE ALL THE TECH STUFF AND GOOD ADVISE. IF I EVER HAVE A PROBLEM, THIS WILL BE MY FIRST STOP. THANKS
Incidentally, most folks tend to reserve capital letters only for emphasis.
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
I'm in the military here in va beach and on every base they have a hobbie shop where people can bring thier cars or trucks in and work on them. It's a fully functional shop. They have everything one might need.
Anyway, a friend and I went over there and rented a stall today. It took us only about an hour or so to put all four shocks on.
I am not that good with cars. I know enough to get me by and I thaught it was easy. I did most of the work. My friend just was there to help if I needed it. I think anyone with a good set of tools can do this them selves.
You will need a set of metric wrenches, A floor jack and some jack stands to be safe. You will also need a big and small cressant wrench.
On all four shocks the top nut will come off easy if you hold the top of the shaft with the cressant wrench so the shaft doesn't spin while trying to remove the nut because it will turn.
You will need the big cressant wrench for the bottom nut because it is very tight. It should come off with some force. If not, just use an impact gun with a socket. The shock should come right out after that.
I used all the stock hard ware because it seemed more beefy than the monroes. I did need to use the monro nuts on the top shaft of all four shocks because the stock nut had a different thread pattern and you do not want to strip the threads of the shocks.
The rears were a little harder just because you have to lay on your back and it's a little tighter of a space. I used a shop lamp to shed some light on the picture on the rears.
Just remember, use the monroe nuts and not the stock nuts that came off your truck for all four, you could strip the threads on the shaft of the shocks and that means NEW SHOCKS.
Oh yea I also want everyone to know I did not remove any tires. I did it with all four tires on. You can get to each front shock by turning the wheel in either direction so its out of your way.
I hope I didn't ramble on, I just wanted anyone who is looking to replace thier shocks that it can be done your self. You don't need any fancy shop or tools, just the ones i listed obove. I also want to let you all now that You don't have to be an expert anyone can do this. Save yourself the money. You will feel so much better about doing it too. Just make sure to be safe and use the jack stands.
Oh yea, for people who don't know if they make shocks for 2002 rodeos, any part # for 98 rodeos and up will work. I orderd for the 2000 rodeo. Just ask them for latest year they have for rodeos and i think it's 2000.
Thanks again for listening and I hope I can help in anyway possible to improve the ride of our rodeos. Mine made a world of a difference.
Thanks.
Steve, Host