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Check Nissan new model matrix web sight. me
Jon, maybe you can add the exemption info and the Customs url into your info sheet.
I am quite pleased with my Canadian PF. I have not had this much enjoyment with any of my previous vehicles.
OK, I will add a little more Customs detail to the info sheet. I just didn't want to cause confusion since hardly anyone stays in Canada after getting their Path. My wife and I did a nice 5-day return trip which saved us a whopping $20 more in duty because of the exemption. This is all really simple and I don't want to make it sound complicated. Even with the inconsistant duty at the border, you still make out like a bandit compared to buying at home in the US.
-Jon
However, you can probably buy a small bottle of touch-up paint from your Nissan dealer, and touch-up the scratches. This will at least cover up the black plastic showing through.
http://www.autobodypro.com/tektips/articles/dent_removal.htm
I am planning on using the rubber with double-sided tape on it to stick it on the bumpers. It will help reduce chipping on the front from rocks, and make the bumpers much more damage resistant. Just have to come up with a good source and design a pattern for the rubber.
Couldn't agree with you more. Zero problems with my PF too. Haven't heard any recommendations on what would be best to buy to avoid rock chips on hood and windshield. Anyone?
that states, "Look out for a restyled nose on the Pathfinder, that resembles that of the [2002] Xtera"
Hmmmmmmm Perhaps they will make the new Rockford Fosgate stereo and H.I.D xenon headlamps options also. The Maxima gets xenon lamps as standard equipment for 2002. Let's wait and see.
I get 17-18 around town, 18-20 highway. Seems the gearing is a little low, but I appreciated it when towing a 2500 trailer.
Thanks
Exzave
How much was it for the bug deflector and installation? I'm thinking about doing the same thing with mine. I also am interested in the wind delectors for the windows. Any idea how much those cost? Does anyone have pics of their Pathfinder with these accessories? I'd love to see the look.
After checking around in my area, the best deal I can find on a Class III trailer hitch installed is from UHaul...$198 installed. It is either a Draw-Tite or Valley hitch...they use both. The Nissan hitch just seems way over priced to me, however I do like the step feature. Does anyone know if this step feature is available on other hitches? I would welcome all comments. Thanks!
Personally I think for all round truck it is the best to drive and for the money too. As matter of fact I was praising it last night on my way to NJ from NYC. Mind you, I have had mine for almost three months now. And I drove it from Ottawa, Canada to NYC new, and in bad weather condition which of cause forced me to engage the 4WD system for the first time in my life. And it was great.
The best thing to is to rent any cheap 5spd car for about week and use it for practice. It will be money well spent. 2) Read alot about how to drive a manual car. barns and noble, the internet, your local library are your best places to for these books. 3) Listen to the sound of the engine and watch the RPM reading and at the same time while balancing both your LEFT FOOT AND RIGHT FOOT. NEVER take your LEFT FOOT OFF THE CLUTCH TOO FAST WHEN SHIFTING FROM 1st. 2nd. and so on. 4) The Owners manual tells you at what speed to shift from 1 to 2 to 3 to 4 to 5 AND from 5 to 4 to 3 to 2 to 1. The 5th. gear is pure and simple an over drive.
Always shift from 1st gear when you come to a full stop. Also you can shift from 5 to 4 and so on to slow down the truck.
YOU AND THE TRUCK MUST BE OF ONE, BEFORE ANY ACTION CAN TAKE PLACE. YOU ARE THE CAPTAIN OF THIS truck.
I hope this help lead you to the road to love driving a manual trasnmmision vehicle.
Full5.
Here's the link if anyone is interested:
http://www.macneilauto.com/store/STBUGDEF.html
The 5-spd mated to the new engine is pure bliss in the mountains here in Denver. Sometimes I wish it wasn't so nice so I could gett a little more aggresive with it off road.
Has anyone really used their Pathy's on aggressive stuff. My buddy has a nice Tacoma that we took over Elephant Hill in Canyonlands UT last spring, and I'd like to possibly try it with the pathy, but am not sure. I would appreciate any input.
thanks in advance
Brian
Pathstar...I am trying to think of what your protection mechanism would look like. Rubber all the way around the bumber?
I've been doing some great off-roading in my 2001 LE. What area of the country are you in? Yeah, it's a little "plush" to be mudding in, but it's still a LOT of fun! I also don't go to the point where there will be body damage. I have a few tips for you (and all):
1. Fold your mirrors in earlier than you think you should. It's the most likely thing on your new Pathfinder to get scratched.
2. Wax or polish your truck often/before you go out. It will keep the scratches down to a minimum. My friend's Durango (only 1" wider) is covered in scratches from the same trail I went down. The branches drug (a word?) along the sides of mine, but when I washed it, not a SINGLE scratch! One word: Zaino!
3. Use your engine for braking down steep hills, NOT your brakes! Pick 4 wheel low and 1st gear.
4. The factory tires leave a bit to be desired. Besides the traction problem, I cut the sidewall of one open on a rock and am now running the spare. My set of Pirelli Scorpion AT's come in tomorrow!
If you want to chat more about it or see some pics of it on the trail, just send me an e-mail: ron.chase@internetmachines.com
Oh, xplorx4 does some outrageous wheelin' in his '97 Pathfinder (a bit more modified than mine... : ) )!
Captain Ron. . .
Just got 19.5 mpg on last tank with lots of hard city driving. I think stick pays off more with city driving than highway as automatic locks-up at much lower rpm on highway.
Any way let me know if I should even bother taking it to dealer now (kidding..I hope).
Ex
Should i change the oil on my PF once i've finished the breaking-in process? I'm almost at the 1600k mark, and have noticed that some owners have opted to change their oil at 1600k instead of 6000k(scheduled matinenace).
Thanks
Thanks...
I change my oil every 3,000 miles or three months whichever come first. The recommended interval for severe conditions (that I use as my benchmark) is 3,750 miles or 3 months whichever comes first.
Some people think metal particles are collected for the first few thousand miles of the vehicle. I read in one article (but I cannot find it right now) that modern engines of today do not experience the metal particles anymore during the break in period
If you are not comfortable changing oil as recommended and wants to change the oil before that, go ahead the $20 is worth your peace of mind.
Exzave
The schedules for 7,500 are the following (just referring to the manual)
Replace - Engine oil
Replace - Engine filter
Inspect - Brake pads, rotors, drums and linings
Inspect - Steering gear, linkage & transfer gear, axle & suspension parts
Inspect - Drive shaft boots
Lube - Propeller shaft
Inspect - Exhaust system
If in your judgment your PF needs the above done, then you can still do the maintenance even after the 7,500 has elapsed. Only problem is that the dealers do a lot more that's why it is too expensive.
If you are in your 15,000 miles then just do this service. This will also cover most of the 7,500 checkups
I called the credit union last week to get them working on it, well now the story changes. They say that they need the MSO (Manufacturer's State of Origin) stating them as a lien-holder before they can give me the loan. I called and told the dealer that and they said that up there they use the "NIVIS" (sp?), so they faxed the credit union that. Well the credit union said it is not the same thing. So now I am in a catch-22.
Credit union will not give me the money unless they can be shown as lien-holder on the vehicle. Dealership won't give me the vehicle unless I give them the loan money.
So.. what to do? As there are over 40 of you who have done this, I'm sure you can help me out.
The credit union is suggesting that I pay cash for it and finance when back here. Uhh. sorry I don't keep that kind of cash lying around. The other option is an unsecured loan from them which equates to only $12K, which isn't enough.
HELP! PLEASE!
-Mike-
mto@pobox.com
60 mph 2400 rpms
70 mph 2800 rpms
75 mph 3000 rpms
80 mph 3200 rpms
5-spd does seem a geared a little low, How-ever it pulled my 2500-3000 lb. u-haul just fine at 70-75 mph. I was wondering why 5 speed is rated to tow less than automatic, I think it is just CYA for NISSAN as there is more room for operator error. Will contact NISSAN somtime about it. Didn't have to start on inclines, not many around where I live But pulled from 1st no problem. Clutch is very precise, not good to learn on, but once you do it is worth it.
As for Milage
Can't seem to break 20 mpg (19.5 sigh) on highway though although I have AC on full blast and pass just about everything, so I cant complain too much. How ever I still get about 18 around town, running every shift over 3k. So it isn't bad.
Exzave
Hello,
I'm curious to know what you guys think about the Bose audio system that comes with the SE/LE versions of the PF.
Personally i think it's a little lacking in sound quality. For one, why aren't there any tweeters in the rear? Has anyone modified the sound system yet?
My odo now reads 10,000 km (6,000 miles) and I'm as happy as a pig in mud right now.
Some minor comments/questions:
1/ I put Mobil 1 synthetic in for the first time when odo read 4,000 miles. Should drain interval be longer than for conventional dino oil?
2/ Fresh air intake ventilation always seems to bring in warm air even when outdoor temperature is a relatively cool 65F. What's the deal with that??? Previous vehicles I owned seemed to draw ventilation air temperatures closely resembling outside air temperature!
3/ A full tank of premium octane fuel nets me a maximum of 300 miles. That is based on perhaps 50/50 city/hiway driving. Any over-achievers out there?
4/ Outside driver's side mirror vibrates slightly at hiway speed. Can dealers remedy this or should I stick some bubble gum in back of the mirror?
5/ My PF was delivered with a dealer installed bug deflector. They did not apply enough rubber stops and the deflector scuffed the clearcoat paint finish on my hood! They tried buffing to no avail. They originally placed a total of 4 stops under the deflector. They added 2 more after this incident. Because of this, I refuse to even let them do a simple oil change. I much rather do it myself, especially when they charge > $50 for synthetic oil!
Thanks in advance!
I have a 2001 Canadian SE and I am installing the microfilter. Help!!!
In the directions it says to cut out the plastic section indicated by the picture...but the picture looks nothing like my PF. I don't want to cut out the wrong slot. Please let me know which one to cut out. The first slot from the right has 2 little knobbies on it, then there is a blank one, then one that says Nissan on it. Any help would be appreciated.
Those good old directions...Can't anyone write precise easy directions? Guess not!
?????
Dano
Thanks
Les
Can anyone recommend a good product that can help prevent the moldings on my PF from fading? I park my PF outside, and have noticed that the window moldings are starting to turn gray. Has anyone tried the Zaino tire/molding gloss?
Also, what is a good product to remove the haze that builds up on the interior of the windshield?
thanks.
Inside of windows (that stuff is from the plastic in the interior outgasing as well as air pollution from smoke) - I use isopropyl alcohol and distilled water 50%/50%. This is what most eye-glass cleaners are (with a bit of soap as well). Watch what kind of isopropyl alcohol you buy, as the rubbing stuff often has oil mixed in it. Be careful on the back window - don't wack the defroster connetions and don't rub across the pattern - you can damage them if you try hard enough.
As for the stick-on rubber bumper protection mentioned last week, I'm still looking for product and thinking of what design to use. Most of the vertical bumper surface would have to be covered (at least on my PF the way I park ;-). A good pattern choise would make it look ok, I think.
The engine specs for the '95 V6 list only 153 up and about 168 l.-ft torque. Is it very under powered? Adequate power would do for my needs.
Thanks for your help!
Now, the owner manual have a list of things needed to be replaced at 15K service and that includes all of the above. All the rest just need to be inspected and adjusted if necessary. I told the service man on the phone that they do not need to replace the airfilter, I will just clean it, and they know that I get free oil change for another 13 and half month. To my surprise,when I ask for an estimate for the 15K service, the man told me it would be about $225.00. I think this is ridiculous price since they will do very little work to my truck. What do you all think about this? I know it would be much cheaper to go a local shop but my question is will this void the warranty? Please respond, the truck is due for service tomorrow morning at the dealer's service department. Thanks.....
A sharp utility knife works well. You will need to cut out the entire slot, including the middle piece, so you'll end up with one long slot. Install the top filter first with the "groove" side on top. Then slide the bottom one in with the "tongue" side up. Use the clip provided for the bottom filter and clip to the "knobbie". Reinstall the glove box and you're done.
I find mine to be fairly clean. Nissan recommends you replace it twice a year. I'll probably replace it once a year. It all depends how often you use the AC/fan. The only draw back is that the filters are not charcoal type to remove the odors/fumes from the outside. Anyone know if the QX4 uses charcoal filters or where I can get some ordered?
Also, however since this could be my imagination, my engine seems to be a lot noisier lately. Its not really engine noise, but seems to be the fan. The sound itself doesnt seem unusual, just that it is a lot louder. Its often louder than the engine itself. Any possibility it is something else like a bearing?
Whats the easier way to change the transmission drive ratio? Its an automatic 3 speed and the engine turns way too fast on the highway. Its hits 3000 rpm before it gets to 60 mph.