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Nissan Pathfinder

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Comments

  • engle3engle3 Member Posts: 12
    I'm between Salinas and Monterey, near the Laguna Seca raceway. I think you are in SF?
    I usually get between 17-20 mpg, but I only have 2x4. I wonder if the small amount of weight difference gives me better gas milage or the fact that I drive like a little old lady. I never did calculate the mpg on the trip but I bet it was well over 20.
    I'm glad to see these last posts regarding the speedometer/odometer. I feel like it reads high, also. The tire size makes the most sense to me.
  • pfwunpfwun Member Posts: 9
    FYI

    I made a few phone calls to my area dealers and asked about the dvd upgrade. Only one of them knew about the option for 2002 models. I was quoted a price for $800. WOW!!!!!
    Looks like I'll stick with the VCR in the back.

    pfwun
  • danogdanog Member Posts: 318
    Looks good. I do like the new wheels.
    For potential Pathy buyers in the South, make sure you really try the A/C before you buy. Our 2001 Black/Black gets real hot and it is hard to cool the rear with the way the center vents reduce the airflow. Maybe the 2002 has been resigned.
    Dano
  • mariko23mariko23 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where I can get a deal on rubber mats for a 2001 PF? Since I'm in the midwest, I don't want to ruin my carpeted mats in the winter.
  • bimmer4mebimmer4me Member Posts: 266
    I found your comment interesting, indicating the A/C was not adequate cooling the rear. Could be the...black on black, don't you think? My last SUV was a black Jeep Grand Cherokee and it would absorb heat like a sponge. My 2001 PF,Bronzed Grey on Ivory cools flawlessly and I live in Palm Springs where temps reach over a 100 on a daily basis during the summer season.
  • gkatz1gkatz1 Member Posts: 296
    Look at courtesynissan.com they have the complete set of genuine pathfinder rubber mats for @$45. I have these and use them during the winter. Their heavy and fit perfect.
  • abner055abner055 Member Posts: 1
    Check out www.mats.com it routes you to www.macneilauto.com and they have a pretty good selection of Floor Mats, Cargo Liners, Racks, etc.. They sell for just about any brand of vehicle.
  • danogdanog Member Posts: 318
    Being Black on Black does have an effect with regard to how hot it gets. But from what I have noticed with our 2001 LE is the wood trim piece cuts down on the size of the right center vent thus reducing air flow to the rear. The vents are small anyway and should not be restricted. We can adjust the side vents closed a bit and it helps.
    The best things we found though is to open the rear hatch which allows most of the hot air escape.

    Dano
  • rob0975rob0975 Member Posts: 17
    Thank God it wasnt serious but the drivers side of my front bumber got pretty chipped & scraped up..I'm not sure if they can fix that or if i'll need a new bumper..Does anyone know how much a front bumper runs on an 01' PF SE??Can you find them used??Thanks
    -Rob(rob0975@aol.com)
  • kmrqkmrq Member Posts: 50
    Well, you can try search the junk yard for used parts. Some place has good condition front bumper from PF. PF that was hit on the side or from behind. You can go try search at www.copartfinder.com and search for 1999 to 2001 Pathfinders. Look at the pic which has good condition front bumpers. Make sure the PF is SE model or XE. 99 to 01 bumpers should fit fine. I asked one of the place for price, and bumper that was in good condition was around $300, but if that place is out of state, you can ask them to ship the product to you, but you need to cover the shipping cost. I also got a quote from dealership, and its around $1000, because of the paint job. I believe unpainted bumper cost only around $350, rest is the labor and paint cost. Well good luck, also I believe the website that I posted became pay-to-use site now.
  • thejman2thejman2 Member Posts: 7
    My Pathfinder has only 700 miles on it and when you decelerate and apply the brakes and come to a stop, you can sometimes hear a very noticable thunk coming from either the front or rear (I can't tell). It only happens probably 4 out of 10 times, but it's really annoying. The spare tire is not loose. Is this normal and does anybody else have it? Also, I'm pretty concerned with the rattles it has already developed over the past 700 miles. When I got it, it was rock solid and now little noises are all over and a really bad one coming from the passenger dash area. I really hope the noises dont get worse, but the braking thunk is really worrying me...any insight on these things? If I can't get them figured out I'll probably have to sell the vehicle as things like this are intolerable on a new car with such a good reliability rating. I'm not even going to bother taking it to the dealer as their response will be "we couldnt get it to make the thunk" or "yeah, that's normal, no problem"
  • winnibubwinnibub Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Pathfinder w/ 5-speed that I love, except for the engine. I am very interested in 01 PF with the 5-speed and 3.5L engine. However, I am not thrilled with the idea of getting another part-time 4x4 system. Does anyone know if AWD will ever be available with the 5-speed? Possibly w/ the 02 model?
  • dcavicdcavic Member Posts: 9
    Have a new 01 LE, 2000 miles on it, also has a shimmy at 60-65 mph, got the TSB from Matt, (thanks again) and will go to the dealer with it.
    New problem, when in AWD Auto at 58-60 mph the steady hum of the engine a louping sound begins not the steady hum. Speed up to 65 and beyond and it stops. I put it in 2WD and it does not have that sound. Anyone have that problem?
  • path_ohonepath_ohone Member Posts: 9
    We have a 01 LE and find this board to be extremely useful. Love the truck.

    I was wondering if i could replace the stock rigid antenna and replace it with a QX4 retractable one? Anyone done that? Should be an easy and cheap mod...your insights please.

    Unrelated - anyone else feel that the legroom for the right leg is sort of "pinched" because of the large transmission tunnel? Can get pretty uncomfortable after long drives, imho.
  • lofquistlofquist Member Posts: 281
    Should be able to do and it wouldn't have to be from a QX4. The Paths from Canada have the power antenna. A Canadian dealer should be able to get the parts easily. Or when you get the part numbers then have your local US dealer get it. The shop manual shows that you can access the power antenna when the glove box and lower panel is removed, but does not go into specifics. Harada also makes some very nice power antennas that are available at auto parts stores.
    -Jon
  • lspanglerlspangler Member Posts: 102
    When you bought out your lease, who did you get financing from? I am in a lease now and I am finding that even with 15,000 miles per year, I drive way to much. I moved after leasing and now instead of 9 miles to work I have 23. My lease works out to 40 miles a day, you can see my dilima.
  • poswaldposwald Member Posts: 38
    I had my front bumper replaced on my 01 PF LE for $550. Included part, labor, painting.
  • rob0975rob0975 Member Posts: 17
    Thanks for the posts on getting a new bumper..My friend looked at it and was saying maybe i can compond or sand it down and get filler and the bumper paint from Nissan and do it myself...i'm not sure how that will come out..Its not dented in,but the paint is scratched pretty bad and there is a small slit that would need to be filled in..I'm not sure what the best way to go is
    -Rob
  • sabre66sabre66 Member Posts: 45
    Has anyone noticed that when their auto Path shifts from 4th into 3rd into 2nd gear (say going up a steep hill) that it doesn't want to shift back into 3rd/4th easily. I recently took a hightway trip to PA and during the trip i noticed the auto tranny's hesitancy to shift back up into higher gears after it had downshifted to pull itself up a grade. As i reached the crest of the grade the rpm's would climb to a point and then just stick there until i released the gas pedal or tapped it. And when it would shift out of 2nd it sort of baulked and jumped into the higher gear. It was really kinda of disconcerting since my Path only had 2000 miles on it. The strange thing is it doesn't do this on anything but steep grades. I never noticed it here in MD for the first 2000 miles since there aren't that many steep hills around, but PA has tons of them. I do have the flare between 1st & 2nd on hard acceleration that was mentioned in prior posts. Maybe i have a poor tranny.

    Has anyone noticed this with their Path? I'm concerned that the dealer won't be able to recreate it and will say it's normal. Any thoughts?

    Thanx
  • mwall1mwall1 Member Posts: 2
    I own a 2001 Pathfinder SE w/o the sunroof. I recently purchased two upgraded sunvisors (LH & RH) which can replace the existing vinyl/foam visors. These visors have a lit vanity mirror and a universal garage door opener (Homelink). Does anyone have thoughts on how I could wire these visors to the vehicle? My best guess right now is to wire them through the overhead console (behind the headliner). The visor wiring is a simple two wire construction. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • lofquistlofquist Member Posts: 281
    I would not be surprised if the wiring is already in there and you just need to hook it up. But maybe you've already found it not to be the case.

    The shop manual just shows 12V to terminal 1 (red with green stripe wire) and ground to terminal 2 (black wire). This power actually comes from the "smart entrance control unit" so it can cut power before you drain the battery if you leave the visor light on. This same power is fed to the interior roof lamps as you surmise. Should be easy. Let me know if you need diagrams or more info.
    -Jon
  • mwall1mwall1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. Jon! I pulled the old visors and I did not notice any wiring up there. (As you can imagine, it is a very tight space.) I am having some trouble removing the overhead console though. I removed the screw in the sunglass bin and the screws near the front (also holding up the rearview mirror), but it is still difficult to remove. I don't want to force it and risk damaging the console. Do you (or anyone else) have any idea on how to remove the overhead console? I don't know if I am missing a screw (or two) or if it uses some fairly rigid clips that just require a little force. Thanks again for the help!
  • path_ohonepath_ohone Member Posts: 9
    lofquist, thanks. I'll check on the part nos from the US and Canadian dealers. After that, i may have to buy the shop manual, i guess!!
  • skips2skips2 Member Posts: 52
    It looks like it's time to share this article again. I obtained it from an excellent website: cars.com. Check it out sometime.

    Demystifying Octane Ratings
    A gasoline's octane rating quantifies it's resistance to knocking and pinging. These two sounds are caused by abnormal combustion, which robs power and can damage an engine. Knocking and pinging are basically the same thing; knocking is louder and represents a more serious condition. When they occur, it is during acceleration, though higher engine speeds tend to drown them out. Knocking sounds like someone repeatedly rapping the engine with a hammer, and the quieter pinging resembles marbles being shaken inside a tin can.

    Many conditions in the engine itself can cause or promote combustion anomalies, but when all other factors are equal, gasoline with a higher octane rating is more resistant to knocking and pinging than a lower-octane fuel. So why doesnt everyone just use high-octane gasoline? Because it is more expensive, and there is no advantage whatsoever in using premium gasoline in a car that doesnt specifically require it. At one time, only premium gasoline included additives that prevent fuel-injector clogging; now, all grades are basically the same in this regard.
    If your car requires high-octane gasoline and you habitually use regular gas because the engine exhibits no sign of knock, you're outsmarting yourself. Most modern, computer-controlled engines include a knock sensor that detects knock and retards the ignition timing, causing the spark plugs to fire slightly later in the cycle. This typically prevents abnormal combustion and knock, which allows vehicles specified for premium fuel to run on lower-grade gasoline if it is all that's available. While this removes the immediate hazard, it's a bad idea to make a habit of running a vehicle on gasoline of lower-than-recommended octane. Retarding the spark causes a richer fuel/air mixture, which decreases fuel economy, increases emissions, causes the engine to run hotter, and reduces the longevity of both the engine itself and the catalytic converter. The money you save by pumping low-grade fuel into a car that demands higher octane is lost anyway, in decreased fuel economy and possibly gradual damage.
    Your vehicle's owner's manual usually recommends an octane rating in terms of an Antiknock Index (AKI), which also is posted on gasoline pumps. The AKI is the average of two ratings determined in a laboratory: the Research Octane Number (RON), which corresponds with low-speed, mild-knocking conditions, and the Motor Octane Number (MON), which covers high-speed, high-temperature knocking conditions and part-throttle operation.
    In general, three grades of gasoline are available in the United States: regular (AKI = 87), midgrade (AKI = 89) and premium (AKI = 91 to 94). The posted gasoline AKIs are lower in the Rocky Mountain states because less octane is needed at higher altitudes. Motorists whose cars require 91 octane fuel may find themselves at filling stations that offer only 89 and 93 octane, but nothing in between. In these cases, the options are to pay more for the 93 octane or to fill the tank halfway with 93 and the rest with 89. The resulting gasoline mixture, just like the average of their two AKI numbers, will equal 91 octane.
    .
  • thejman2thejman2 Member Posts: 7
    Yes, my Pathfinder does it too going up hills or even going at high speeds (80MPH) it hesitates to shift to a higher gear after you've been in a lower gear for a minute. I've noticed that on hills, once you get to the very top it will shift but not a second quicker. I wouldn't worry about it...seems normal to me, just kind of a screwy thing with Pathfinders....What is the 1st-2nd gear flare anyway? What does the vehicle do? I'd like to check mine for that.
  • pondfull5pondfull5 Member Posts: 53
    Thank you Jon L. for showing me the way up North.
    I still don't understand why Nissan will delete certain things on the American PFS. but have them on the Canadians. The only thing missing on the Canadian Pathfinders are certain colors.

    Top speed on my 5spd SE was 174km/hr.(that was the cut off point.) on HWY 380 heading up north to Ottawa about 3 weeks ago.
  • jgdiablojgdiablo Member Posts: 3
    After a bad rain storm yesterday in NJ, when the car is in Park, when you press the brake pedal, the transmission gives out a loud clicking sound that seems to enable/disable the ability to move the transmission out of Park. When driving in any other gear, the clicking sound is not there. This sound was never there before. I called the dealer this morning, and he said that the car always makes that clicking sound when in Park. Sounds like BS to me, since I never heard it before. I'm just going to make an appointment and let them take a look at it. Anyone else experience anything like this?
  • sabre66sabre66 Member Posts: 45
    The first to second gear shift flare has been mentioned in several posts early on in this board and in my case refers to a "wind-up" feel/sound between the shift points. It also is a sharper, more noticable shift than between any other gears. It hasn't bothered me too much since i figure this a truck that weighs 4000lbs for one, and second the gear ratios have to be set to handle several factors - i.e. towing, driving performance, and fuel economy. So i kinda of expect it to have a different feel than an automatic in a car. Maybe i'm wrong, but it hasn't bothered me enough to stick it in the shop for 2-3 days while they try to unsuccessfully recreate the scenerio.

    As for the "clicking" noise in park. Mine does that too and has since the day i bought it. It's the shift lock mechanism releasing the auto shifter out of park. Sometimes mine is hard to get out of park even when the brake pedal is fully depressed. All i do is take my foot off the brake and reapply it, then it's fine. I mentioned it to the dealership the first time i took it in to have my driver side mirror replaced (that's a whole other story) and they never looked into it yet due to other issues replacing my mirror.

    Hope that helps,
    S-66
  • sabre66sabre66 Member Posts: 45
    I apologize in advance for this long post, but i figured i'd ask you all on this board since the dealership can't figure it out. I bought my '01 LE with a scratched driver side mirror casing that was too be replaced with the deal. Well i've had in the dealership 4 times to have it replaced and each time i get another load of crap about "the mirror we ordered isn't the right mirror for the car even thought the parts book says it is." Then it became "the mirror we ordered is heated and your truck doesn't have heated mirrors." This is wrong since it's an LE and says so right on the window sticker. On the third attempt, they painted the mirror at the body shop then lost it on the way over to the dealership. The 4th attempt after they said they now had 2 mirrors painted and ready (after painting a new one and finding the lost one). Well i leave the Path all day again and...of course it's not fixed when i go to pick it up. I got hold of the Service Manager and he said they didn't think the mirror they ordered could be painted to match the truck due to a texture difference that would appear different than the passenger side mirror.

    Here's my questions for you all on this board. 1. Does anyone know for sure what Pathfinder models have heated mirrors? (is it all or just LE)
    2. Has anyone else had one of their LE mirrors replaced and might be able to determine the part number for the new mirror?
    3. Does it make sense that the mirror texture on an XE or SE black mirror wouldn't match the texture of the LE mirror even after a 3-coat paint process? (i have the pearlglow white which requires an extra couple coats)
    4. What the heck should i do, if i take it in a fifth time and they tell me they still can't fix it. (the only reason i'm still using this dealer is because it's a "we owe" fix from the dealership i purchased from.)

    Again sorry for the long post, but i'm at my wits end trying to get this mirror thing fixed. Any input will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanx
    S-66
  • lofquistlofquist Member Posts: 281
    The shop manual shows the screw in the sunglass bin as you found. There are also four clips, one at each corner. But it shows no other screws.
    -Jon
  • sanandtonsanandton Member Posts: 342
    Is indeed heated. Not sure about the difference between textures on LE vs XE or SE
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    You know, that dealer is just waiting for you to say "I've had enough of this!" and have you leave them alone forever. They know just what buttons to press, don't they?

    How nasty is that scratch? Maybe you could live with it... Ask the sales manager to compensate you for your time and trouble, and since they didn't accurately honor their side of the deal, how about asking for a partial refund?? And then, "SEE YA!"
  • sabre66sabre66 Member Posts: 45
    The scratch is actually a gouge. The plastic has 2 inch long deep grooves in it from where they hit the showroom floor door while pulling it onto the showroom floor. Otherwise, i'd have buffed it out or had them just repaint it. Since some of the plastic has been scraped out, i'd rather not have them fill it with putty and paint over it. It's not terrible damage and i could live with it. However, i wouldn't have even bought from this dealer if i'd have known it would be this much trouble to replace a mirror they damaged. Of course the sales guy said "no problem, they'd just get a new mirror and pop it on in no time." Of course he was feeding me a line to make the sale. As a consumer though, nobody wants to pay top dollar for damaged goods.

    The service dept. was supposed to call Nissan on Monday to check into the part and find out exactly what to do. So far no word, but after the happenings of the last day and half i'm willing to give them some time. Hopefully this time they'll get it right though.

    S-66
  • pathstarpathstar Member Posts: 201
    I pulled mine a few months ago. I used a wide "putty knife" to pry down each corner (pop them out of the clips). That way, you don't deform the roof liner. Just work your way from corner to corner and it will release.
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    I would recommend evaluating your complete situation before deciding to buyout your lease. The main fact is MILES COST $$$$. It doesn't matter if you lease or purchased your vehicle. If you drive more than 12-15k per year, your vehicle will depreciate at levels ranging from 10 to 20 cents a mile over what's considered normal. Depending on what your buyout amount and milage penalty is on your lease, it still may be cheaper to pay for the milage penalty at the end of your lease, than to pay for the additional tax and interest associated with buying out your lease.

    I always find it amusing that people think if you drive a lot you can't lease, as if the additional miles are free if you purchase your vehicle. The thing I like about leasing is you know exactly what your situation is at the end of the lease, which is not the case if you own the vehicle.

    If you plan to keep you PF for many years then it may make sense to purchase, but you shouldn't of leased it in the first place. If you still only plan on keeping it for the term of your lease I wouldn't excersise your buyout, you can easily figure out what you will owe in milage penalties by figuring how many miles you'll be over x $.15 or what ever your milage rate is. Even if you go over by a total of 15K miles that is $2250 in milage penalties, I'd bet that's still cheaper than buying out.
  • sabre66sabre66 Member Posts: 45
    Here's my take on the lease buyout deal. If you take good care of your vehicles (or even moderate care) a Pathfinder 4X4 should be worth more than the residual at the end of 3 years. (I personally keep my vehicles immaculate and have the service records, and Zaino & ArmorAll receipts to prove it). Generally most residuals are running close to 51% meaning a $33K vehicle would cost you %16-17K to buy at the end of the lease. Most 3 yr old SUVs are worth that, especially if they're 4x4s. I've seen '99 Explorers and Blazers with 40K miles going for $18-20K, and those aren't nearly as reliable or off-road tough as a Nissan. Plus the Pathfinder has more hp, torque, and looks, rides and feels alot nicer.

    Also the finance officer at the dealership told me that if i decided to buyout the lease at the end, to negotiate the residual price with NMAC because they really don't want the vehicle back (especially if it's over mileage). So that could actually save you $1500-2000 on the buyout. My buyout is $18K so i plan to offer them $16.5K with the extended warranty thrown in. If they take it, great. If not, then i'm sure i'll be able to find someone who wants to buy a used Pathfinder in great shape with around 40-50K miles for $18K and get myself out of the lease/buyout.

    Just my $0.02,
    S-66
  • driverjoedriverjoe Member Posts: 6
    I have a 97 Pathfinder and my antenna doesn't work. I found out the dealer charges $300 to replace it... Is this harsh reality? Please someone tell me they had theirs fixed for cheaper.

    Also I recently have been hearing a squealing from somewhere. It only happens when I'm moving and gets louder when I go faster.

    Someone give me some insight please...
  • er2ver2v Member Posts: 12
    Just logged 800 plus miles on a trip from Philly to the Outer Banks. The PF performed flawlessly.
    With a full load and luggage on top I got 20mpg up and back along the DelMarVa peninsula route which requires some stop and go driving for a while. The seats supported both of us perfectly, and we suffered no driver fatigue as a result. Off-road and in deep, soft sand, the truck kept going. We are really taken by this truck.
  • phil47phil47 Member Posts: 394
    What you're describing sounds very much like the "grade logic" used in the 2001 PF tranny. I also have it in my 2001 Honda Odyssey. It is designed to hold lower gears longer while climbing hills so the tranny doesn't "hunt" for gears as much. It works very well in both vehicles, but I notice it holds the lower gear much longer (more noticeable) in my Pathfinder. It is normal. Hope this helps.
  • sabre66sabre66 Member Posts: 45
    Phil47,
    Thanks for the input. I kinda figured it was some sort of "grade logic" system, but it just seems to hold way too long for my taste. I guess maybe when i'm towing i'll appreciate it more. At least i feel a little more relaxed about it being normal knowing others have noticed it too.

    Thanks again.
    S-66
  • lcc1059lcc1059 Member Posts: 16
    I just bought a SE, of course with the part time 4WD. It has 2H/4H/N/4L, but I feel it has only 2 gears, 2W and 4W. How can know what mode/gear am I in? I will try to find out in the manual, it is nice if someone can answer me. I could see a illuminate car like object on the dash board when I shift to 4W.
  • mbuntingmbunting Member Posts: 158
    Recall Alert: NISSAN PATHFINDER
    Owner Notification Date: 9/11/2001
    Number of Units Potentially Affected: 31,000
    Component Description: STRUCTURE:HATCHBACK HINGE AND ATTACHMENTS
    NHTSA Campaign Number: 01V282000
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Description of Recall Campaign:
    Vehicle Description: Passenger vehicles. 2001 model year Nissan Pathfinder
    vehicles manufactured from December 20, 2000, through June 8, 2001, and 2001
    model year Infiniti QX4 vehicles manufacturer from January 8 to June 8, 2001.
    Some of the brackets used to attach the two gas struts to the rear door (hatch)
    may not have been made to specification. At high ambient temperature, the
    increase in gas pressure in the strut(s) may cause one or both brackets to bend,
    resulting in the struts detaching from the bracket(s) when opening or closing
    the rear door.

    If both struts detach from the brackets, the door will rapidly fall down and
    possibly strike someone, possibly causing serious injury.

    Dealers will replace the brackets for the struts free of charge.
    Owner notification is expected to begin during September 2001. Owners who
    take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and
    do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact Nissan at
    1-800-647-7261. Hawaiian residents should call 1-808-836-0888. Also contact
    the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at
    1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236).
  • li_sailorli_sailor Member Posts: 1,081
    I wonder if the replacement hinges I got with the rear window replector from irontoad solves this problem. Anyone know?
  • pfwunpfwun Member Posts: 9
    hello all,

    my RR tire got stuck with a screw on the boderline of the sidewall and tread. couldn't patch it. I had the full size spare tire on that RR alloy wheel and the spare wheel in the trunk. bad tire was disposed. Work done at NTB. Can I use the full size spare as a normal use tire or should it be treated as a temp tire???
    I called a local dealership to find a price on a new tire and the "sales rep" said that I maybe able to use the warranty on the tire and get it replaced since it was a "roadside hazard". I wasn't aware of this and I NTB had dispose the tire already. Any of you aware of this warranty? I'll have to wait till monday morning for the "service dept" to open up to get the official answer. Thanks for any advice you can offer.

    pfwun
    2001 PF LE
  • flipmodeflipmode Member Posts: 1
    Sorry if this is a repeat but.....
    Does anybody know where the O2 sensor on the 98 PF/QX4 is ? I've heard that this causes the Service Engine Soon light to come on prematurely.

    Thanks...Great Board....
  • meca2meca2 Member Posts: 284
    On a '98 PF there might be only 2. There are on the exhaust manifold or on the header pipe aft the manifold. They look like an overgrown spark plug with a wire on it. To change them you have to use a special socket to ocomadate the wire. And use a very good quality anti seize compound. The last time I changed one I pulled the treads out of the manifold. Would not hurt to replace or remove the sensor to clean the treads and install with anti seize compound every 30k. The '01 PF with the 3.5 L has 4 sensors. 1 on each header pipe and 1 after the cat converter typ. for each side. Some fail after 30k and some last along time.
  • rcsuttonrcsutton Member Posts: 35
    I have had 3 out of 4 go bad Or at least that's what the dealer says
  • smithmdsmithmd Member Posts: 167
    The recall is for the brackets at the ends of the struts, not for the hinges.
  • smithmdsmithmd Member Posts: 167
    I've never heard of the manufacturer giving "road hazard" warranty on the original equipment tires. That doesn't mean that they wouldn't...I just haven't heard of it before. Road-side assistance is different; that just means that they come help you with whatever problem you have on the side of the road.

    The spare tire that came with your truck is a full size regular tire. It's just like the tires that came on the other 4 wheels.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    The owner's manual should give a description of how to operate the 4WD transfer case. Did you read it?

    Here's a summary:
    2WD - lever all the way forward; dashboard "4wd" light off

    4Hi - lever pulled back slightly; dashboard "4wd" light on

    4Lo - lever pulled back significantly; dashboard "4wd" light on.

    To get from 4Hi to 4Lo: while vehicle is in "N" and completely stopped (0 mph) in 4hi, press downward on lever and pull it backwards firmly and quickly (while still pressing downward) in one smooth motion until it pops back up. If you do it slowly or hesitate, you will not fully engage 4LO, and a grinding noise may occur. If this happens, shut off the engine, and then complete the action to engage 4LO before you restart the engine.
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