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Thanks for the information. What type of wax do you use on the alloy rims? Do you wax the entire outside surface of the rim? I have a Nissan nose mask to protect against gravel on the highway, and had 3M film installed on the headlights and turnsignals, as I was unaware of the availability of headlamp covers.
Smithmd:
The 2001 Canadian XE and SE have the same rims and tire size, while the LE model comes with a different rim design and tire size.
Thanks to both of you
i went to fosmo.com and when i click bulb application guides for my 2001 LE it didn't give me any results "not available at this time" Also, which specific bulb did you get the H3, H4 or the HB3, HB4? thanks again.
Don't rely on the GPS comparison at only one speed. At least with mine, the error changes over the range of the speedometer.
They told me at the service department that it was a good catch by me finding out about it on the internet, as it was the first time they had seen/heard of this bulleting for this problem.
No more hard shifts for me now...everything is fine and dandy. I'm about to add another 3k miles on mine (in about 3 weeks) as we drive from MS to WA (Tacoma) on a job relocation.
That will put me at about 15k in just over 10 months of ownership....and all 10 have been wonderful!
Drew
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Drivers seat was fairly comfortable and it was very easy to find yourself at 85 mph without knowing it - very quiet for SUV
The 99.5 has a dual in, single out muffler followed by a resonator and then the exhaust tip. Everything is under 2". If you're looking for performance, I would recommend a catback system which replace everything. If you want a unique look, you can probably get away with that Borla system from the muffler back.
As a muffler already comes with the Borla system, you should make sure it isn't very restrictive (I'm guessing it isn't) and acts essentially like the resonator in the stock system. This will also help keep the noise down. I would also check the dimensions to ensure it fits in the space available, that you can use the existing hanger points, and that you can exit straight out the back rather than out the side like the stock system. You will have to swedge up from the outlet of the muffler to the 2 1/4" inlet of the new system, but this isn't a big deal for a muffler shop. I would think very carefully before removing the existing muffler and just going with the highflow one attached to the Borla system. If you do it, be prepared for a very noisy truck!
Good luck!
Mike: Thanks for the reply. Upshifting is not a problem for me...yet. I'll bring the downshift problem to my dealer's attention and see what they say.
When I had the Stillen catback exhaust system installed on my 99.5, it used a high-flow muffler (in the existing mufflers position) and NO resonator. It sounded great but was loud and could really drone at certain rpms. That's why I would recommend keeping the existing muffler and using the Borla high-flow muffler as a resonator. I suspect the Borla muffler is a "straight through" design with very little back pressure. It is essentially a resonator.
Also...anywone know where to purchase fender flares for the base model (2001 XE). Do you have to drill?
thanks for all your help...
Colin in BC Canada
Does anyone know where to get a set that will fit in that space or match the ones we have (they will need to be flipped 180 degrees to fit)?
Also how do you get that black plastic piece out without damaging the existing fog light?
Will the wiring for the existing set be able to be spliced into in order to run the new set?
If not, how would you go about running the wiring into the cab? Best route? Those of us without the Entertainment package have the perfect spot for the switch. Right next to the heated seat buttons.
Anyway just and idea i had that someone can hopefully help me out with.
Thanks,
S-66
How much like factory do you want this fog light install to be? With factory switch on the stalk? Or just another switch under the dash somewhere? Actually it doesn't matter to get started .
Find the fog light relay (or lack thereof). It's in the relay box in the engine compartment. Second relay from the front on the left row (I can't confirm this right now - don't have the Path here). There should be a diagram on the cover.
You should see 12V at all times on the green wire at the relay (comes from fuse #53 - 15A). With the ignition on and headlight switch on to low beams, you should also see 12V at the red w/black stripe wire on the relay. If so, then grounding the red w/blue stripe wire will close the relay contacts and you will see 12V at the green w/white stripe wire on the relay. This wire in turn goes the fog lights. The fog light switch on the stalk is normally connected between that red/blue wire and ground.
See if this gets works for you. This is the wiring for a 2001 NON-automatic light system vehicle which the XE is (either US or Canadian).
-Jon
-Jon
Nissan makes a fog lamp kit (part # 9999F1-XK000). If you have auto headlamps like my XE has, you need to buy an additional switch (part #25540-2Y970). I got this information from Nissan Canada. I have been thinking about the black plastic panel where the fog lights mount on the SE and LE models, and believe that after market lamps may not look all that great. Rather than buy the lamp switch above, you may be able to wire one in, as per Jon's information.
Let me know what you decide to do.
Woody in frosty BC
Drew
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Again, thanks.
Colin in Vancouver, Canada
After looking closer at the cost and potential for error in damaging the existing set-up, i'm not sure if i want to try it or not.
If i do i'll let you all know how it turns out.
S-66
Drew in Vancouver
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Get snow? Check.
Get rain? Check.
Live near mountains? Check.
Enjoy outdoors? Check.
NEED a 4x4 sometimes? Check.
Love the PF? Check.
I guess it's no wonder us Canucks are all over this board, especially those of us who live in BC and Alberta. Always good to hear from Canadian crowd, yourself included.
I have owned mine (2001 LE) since May and I enjoy it more and more everyday. It now has 12,000 Km and is really starting to smooth out. In my opinion, you can not buy a better midsize SUV.
Being about 540 km in the interior from Vancouver, we do get frosty nights, but fortunately have been giving way to bright sunshine and day temperatures of 15 C +. In not too long a time, we will be into the conditions where the Pathfinder will shine- snow and slick roads.
Woody
Thankfully I walked away with only a few bumps and bruises(I had my seatbelt on). My PF wasn't so lucky. The initial body shop estimate is $15k in damage. I was hoping the insurance company would 'total' it, but since it's almost new they would have needed about $5000 more damage. Luckily the front end was never really damaged so the engine was ok. Actually, the Nissan mechanic said it started right up and ran fine when they inspected it. Unfortunately, no matter how good of a job the bodyshop does I'm afraid my PF will never be the same.
I realize this accident doesn't fall into any of the crast test categories, but I can certainly vouch for the PF's structural durability. Even the body shop said the vehicle held up very well under the circumstances. I don't have any worries about this vehicle keeping me safe.
Just my 2 cents...
Did your side airbag deploy when your flipped on the side? What did the truck driver say?
Let's hope nobody else finds out how structurally sound the Paths are.
S-66
There was our '01 Pathy running new 265/70r16's, a '96 Tacoma with 32x11.5r15's, A '00 Wrangler w/31x10.5r15's. All were 5-spds, the Taco has a 1.75" Rancho lift, the Wrangler is stock, and I put in rubber spring spacers for a 1.5" lift on the Pathy.
Tires were aired down to 26 psi, and it worked like a charm.
Here are the pics: http://photos.yahoo.com/bgritz
interesting note:
the new 265/70R16's I just put on the Pathy measure to within 1/8 of an inch of height on the year-old 32's. sort of nice. Even completely cranked into the wheel well-with one side hanging in the air, there was still space left over-(due to the 1.5" spring spacer lift)
We ran about 78/mph out from Denver and averaged 19.32 mpg, and ran 85 mph back and got just under 18 mpg.
The 265/70's read 1.8 mph slower on the speedo-
i.e. 78 indicated on speedo = almost 80
as usual, the Pathy was rock solid and a pure joy to drive. It did much better than I expected on the tough trail. There were points where the LSD really helped.
They are made for the Discount Tire Chain (http://tires.com/)by Kelly-Springfield and have a 60k warrantee. They come in both a 6 and and 8ply. I tried to get a bit more aggressive tire called the Radial ATR, but they don't make them in the 265/70's, and the 265/75's were a bit too close to the struts for comfort.
I have been very impressed with their traction and ability to flex. We haven't had any snow or rain since I put them on, but I'm thinking they should do much better than the pathetic stock Bridgestones that came on the Pathy.
Way back in '88 I had a brand new Maxima station wagon hit so hard it did $9000 damage. They didn't total it either. That darn car is still out there running great with over 300,000 miles on it. It never had any big repair bills after the accident either.
Let's hope yours will do the same.
Many thanks!
Captain Ron. . .
The business manager tried hard to sell me an extended warranty. His primary pitch was the increased likelihood of mechanical problems with the 4 wheel drive system. He offered a 6 year, 75,000 mile, 0 deductible, bumper to bumper, for $960. At 3.9% it would have been about 18 dollars more per month. I declined the offer.
I told him one big reason I was buying Nissan was the excellent repair history of the product line. Anyone else had a similar sales pitch? Did you buy it? Any comments are appreciated.
The same thing happened to me. I leased my 01 LE and they gave me the same line of bull. I didn't buy the warranty, because the base warranty covers my lease period. Can't blame them for trying. I'm sure if you or I were in their shoes we'd be trying to sell warranties too. That's how they make extra $$.
Warranties aren't always a bad choice. I had a 98 Ford SVT Contour which I purchased the extended warranty for about $900 and got about $3000 of work out of it. Thank God I bought the warranty. Needless to say I got rid of the car the day the extended warranty expired. It all depends on the car and situation you in when you purchase.
I chose the warranty because I knew that we're going to keep this vehicle for a while and wanted the peace of mind
A four-pack of 2-1/4-1/2 spacers were $7.99, so the entire lift cost me $16.
I actually paid $24 because I thought that rears would be the same as the fronts and cut them at the same time. NOPE, the rear springs are much softer and have a lighter gauge spring.
I ended up cutting the fronts about an 3/8's inch top and bottom, but leaving the rears uncut. that gave me the 1-3/4"-2.00" lift with a half tank of gas.
They performed good off-road. I did check them and found that the rears wanted to tilt a bit to the sides on occasion. In 4 days of hanging the tires off the ground, I just had to climb under and scoot them back up-right twice.
I also ran a zip tie laterally through them and around the spring on the rears to make sure the would not completely fall out.
I'll try and get some pics posted of the fronts and rears if interested. They definately give the Pathy a more muscular look.
My original plan was to just put them in when heading to the hills, but after driving on-road with them in, I like the ride better and before. Not stiff like a truck, but slightly more firm, yet compliant.
Brian
Also, why not grab some of those yellows off a wrecked QX4 or something?
PYRENUS
Do these coil spacers limit suspension travel, change the driveline angle, or otherwise impair normal operation? I'm new to lifts, and I'm trying to figure out what the tradeoffs are. What does the install entail? If they're so cheap, why don't more people do it?
Oh, if you could post pictures, that would be great.
Thanks,
Brian.