Nissan Pathfinder

omega11 · October 2001

Hello,
I have a few questions the "auto" tranny mode on my PF. When the PF tranny switch is set to "auto" does this imply that it is AWD?

Thanks.

li_sailor · October 2001

Yes...auto setting is AWD.

li_sailor · October 2001

When a fuse blew in my 2001 LE a few months ago (it was the taillight fuse which also handles the dashboard lights, which is what I noticed went out) I replaced the fuse (it was in the box under the hood) and I thought...maybe a freak thing, maybe a bad fuse. A few days ago, it happened again...same fuse position. Of course, the idea of electrical problems scares the heck out of me...has anyone had this problem? Do you think I should be concerned? Maybe a short or something in the taillights? I have a tow hitch.

Tom

pathstar · October 2001

You probably have a wire on the trailer wiring with frayed insulation (rubbing on the body). Better check it thoroughly.

bgritz · October 2001

Brian60,

"Do these coil spacers limit suspension travel, change the driveline angle, or otherwise impair normal operation?"
I'm not a pro, but they seem like they raise everything a bit except with no affects on normal operation. I had been looking at getting a 2" spring lift from automotive customizers (http://www2.4x4parts.com/), but it actually turned out to be more like 2.5" and I was afraid of the angles it produced for the front driveline. Since no one I've found sells longer struts for the Pathy, owners with the springs noticed topping out over bumps due to the taller spring, but same shorter shock in the struts. In terms of travel, the Pathy was still able to get more articulation that the Taco we went with and he had Rancho 5k's. One thing I have noticed (and I prefer) it that when I climb in or put something in the back, there is very little sag, but it still rides great.

What does the install entail?
You need to get the front end unloaded using the frame or a non-swingarm point. I put a tall 2.5 ton jack under the space where the swingarms meet the frame and raise the front about 6" without getting the tires off the ground. This unloads the springs enough to put the trimmed spacers in. The rear is a bit tougher due to the lack of locations to put the jack that aren't on the axel. Since I don't actually raise the entire rear off the ground, the trailer hitch or the frame it mounts to has worked well. Since the point is a bit higher, I have to add a 4"x4" block to the top of the jack to give me the clearance I need. Once the back is raised, I slide under the rear wheel well opening and slide the full sized spacers into place.
note: make sure that the tranny is in 4-low ,1st gear, and that the front wheels are blocked so that it won't move.
I get a little nervous about being under a car w/only a floor jack, but I don't get completely under and if it did happen to slip, I still can slide out since tires and everything else are still on. You're just unloading the springs, not raising the whole rear end. You can also pull a rear tire and get in from the side if that makes you more comfortable.
The entire install takes me about 15 minutes, less to remove them.

If they're so cheap, why don't more people do it?
I think of it more as a stopgap vs. a true lift. If someone comes out with new front struts that are a little longer I will probably trade them out and add adjustable air shocks to the rear to give me the added lift for towing and medium 4x4ing we do. For now I'm gonna give these a try and see how they work. I figure if I hate them, I've only spent $24 on them so no big loss, but so far they have exceded expectations.
I'll try and take some pics this weekend. and post them.
Brian

drew_ · October 2001

If you have any further questions about 4WD & AWD, a good place to check out is our 4WD & AWD systems explained discussion topic.

Drew
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards

captainron · October 2001

Hi,

I'm trying to get a picture in my head as to the type of spacers we're talking about...Obviously, actual pictures would be great! Anyway, are they the little aluminum "cams" that you just put between two of the coils and twist in? Or are they a 6" (or so) diameter "dognut" that sits on/in the spring seating pad?

Also, ARB/Old Man Emu now makes a coil spring kit for the Pathfinder!

I wrote: "Someone told me that ARB is developing an OME suspension kit for the '99.5-'01 Nissan Pathfinder. Any truth to this? Any details you can provide would be appreciated!"

Their response: "hello there
we have two front spring options and one rear spring please call 1 888 4272872
regards, buddy king"

Sounds like they have a heavier spring option for those with the ARB Bull-Bar/Winch option as well as two standard rates for just a lift. By the way, I saw one of these set up at an off-road expo last weekend. The ARB aluminum bumper/bull-bar looks great on the new Pathfinder!

Captain Ron. . .

canadatwo · October 2001

I have been checking out some used 1990 - 1993 Pathfinders.

4-door, SE, 5-speed, V6.

Is there anything I should watch out for?

I found a 1990SE with 135K miles that is in great condition for $4500 US$.

How are the 90-93 Pathfinders in the snow and ice?

Thanks in advance!

bgritz · October 2001

Fuses:
I went through two fuses for the dash/tail lights before I found the culprit, a bare wire on my hitch lighting harness. I taped it up and the world is good once again.
Spring Spacers:
I just added a pic of the trimmed fronts to my Yahoo pics page
http://photos.yahoo.com/bgritz
They are not of our Pathy (Thanks John of 4x4 parts.com bbs), but I will post new pics on Monday of my setup.
Gritz

xplorx4 · October 2001

brian60, captainron and bgritz-

The rubber spacers show below are what you might call "a poor-man's lift" and are at best, should be considered a temporary, stop-gap measure.

These spacers probably work just fine under normal, everyday, on-road driving, and have the benefit of increasing the static height of the vehicle.

There is a drawback to this approach, however:
The spacers limit upward travel of the suspension. In other words, the spring cannot compress as fully as it was originally designed to do, so under extreme conditions, you may experience bottoming out of the spring and spacer, rather than bottoming out on the bump stop. Another factor is that wheel articulation is affected, primarily on the rear axle. The "stuffed" tire will not be able to compress as fully. (The front will likely never reach its full compression because of the antisway bar).

When I did research on lifts and ride height modifications, I experimented with these spacers, as well as the metal "twist-in" spacers and the donut-style spacers. I wasn't happy with any of these options because I didn't feel they were the optimal approach.

In the photo above, you can see I opted to install a set of Air Lift air springs to help deal with sagging caused by towing or heavy loads.

As for the issues created by installing stiffer (or longer) coil springs- i.e. 2-inch lift, the "topping out" problem described on 4x4parts.com has only to do with the length of the front struts. Longer struts would have the side-effect of increasing the driveline angles, possibly exceeding the CV joint operating angle, so it's better to keep the stock length. (Incidentally, adding the spacers achieves the same effect as having stiffer springs, with the disadvantage that you have reduced upward travel.)

Finally, 2" to 2.5" lift springs have been available for some time through Automotive Customizers (AC) and are priced in the $350 range for a set of 4. I don't know about the OME/ARB springs properties or pricing. If you are concerned about the actual spring height, and want to either lower or raise your vehicle a custom amount, you can contact Valley Spring Works who manufactures the springs for AC. I purchased my 2" lift from them direct in 1999, and the springs were custom-designed to my specs.

Sorry this post was so long, but I hope it helps clarify some things a little.

captainron · October 2001

Dean,

I agree with you on the wedge-type spacers. The ones that bgritz is showing are at least a huge step above the aluminum "cam" type that I had in my car I had in high school. It did give me that "look" I was going for at 16, but the ride and handling got pretty nasty.

Certainly, the best way to go is to replace the springs with a longer and/or higher rate set...What were the drawbacks to the dognut style that sit in the spring perch? It seems that you could still keep the same spring rate as factory, but get a 1/2" lift for that terminally sagging rear-end (careful here folks...).

Ron. . .

xplorx4 · October 2001

I wanted to add that the actual height benefit gained by adding the spacers is actually less than the thickness of the spacer. In the photo showing them (see previous post), compare the distance between coils with the spacer between them and the distance without. The spacers would only lift their full height if the spring coils (at rest) were touching each other.

The donuts were nearly impossible to squeeze into the part of the spring where they would do the most good, since they have to fully squeeze into the entire spring circumference. I had tried to force the donut into the space between the second and third upper coils of the red springs shown in the previous post. This was practically impossible. (Note that the coil spring is already nearly fully uncompressed.) The donut was also the incorrect size and shape to safely fit around the lower spring perch. The upper perch already has a rubber "spacer"

The photo below shows the spring "at rest." Maximum benefit from any spacer would be achieved only by putting it near the top of the spring, where the coils are contacting each other.

bgritz · October 2001

I agree with both of you. Thanks for the knowledge.
gritz

div2 · October 2001

I have a 1993 SE with over 126000 miles on it. It has been quite reliable. I would look for rust, particularly in the rocker panels as well as under the rear seats. Exhaust manifolds can warp and break the studs. A dealer will want mucho $$$ to replace the whole mess but a good independent shop can mill the manifolds and replace the studs for about 1/4 of what the dealer will ask. Mine has performed like a champ on snow/ice. We got a 22" snowfall a few years ago and the PF handled the un-plowed driveway with no problems.

lcc1059 · October 2001

I hit my 01 SE pathfinder front bumper when I parked my lovely car this morning. No damage in the body but a little disortion in the front part because the right side of bumper went in. Should I claim the insurance? I am thinking take it to a body shop to estimate? Anybody has the same experience? How much does it cost?

captainron · October 2001

Hi,

Someone damaged my front bumper in the parking lot a couple of months ago...It was one of those low speed paint scrapes with just a slight crease on the corner. I priced out a new bumper fascia at Nissan: $224 Trouble is, it's not factory painted. The body shop that the dealer uses quoted me $275 to paint it the factory color then clear coat. So, a quick back of the envelope puts you at 500 clams (that's a lot of clams). The body shop said I should just have them putty fill the crease and "spot paint" the area for around $125. Well, I'm not real comfortable with having a re-paint on top of or next to factory paint...these things tend to fade differently over the years.

As for insurance, I didn't even bother looking up my policy. I seem to remember that my deductible is right around there. Besides, the guy who hit me said he'd send me a check for the $500...and I'm sure THAT's going to happen... : )

Anyway, I hope this helps and sorry to hear about your crunch...they can be disheartening.

Captain Ron. . .

lcc1059 · October 2001

Ron,
I went to a shop and the guy quoted me for 656 for the whole thing. He said the distortion part would be OK if the bumper cover is removed. What state are you in? I am in Jersey.

peaches5 · October 2001

I ran into a brick mailbox and scraped and dented the back bumper of my silver 2000 PF. The main dent was about as round as an apple, maybe dented in 1/4-1/2 an inch (if that sounds deep, then I'm explaining it wrong - it was as if you had punched it really, really hard). The second dent was about 1/5th the size of the big dent. Both broke the surface of the paint in several places - you can imagine running a brick across the paint. I took it to a body shop near where I used to live in Atlanta and he charged me $100. I'll give anyone $1000 if they can tell. It's the most beautiful thing I've seen

I was looking at trading it in and several dealers told me the car was in 100% excellent shape, so even the pros couldn't tell. I have relatives of mine lined up to get their cars worked on now - it's that good for that low a price. The car was there for 1 1/2 days. I looked into one of those "dent repair" services, but they only work on metal dents. It's really pretty in Atlanta now if you guys want to make the trip

))

djegators · October 2001

I am very excited to join this exclusive club of owners of these awesome SUVs. I do have a question for you guys, since I have yet to receive the owners manual for my new 2001. I understand that there is a "breaking-in" period, can anyone help me with these instructions? I want to treat my beauty with the respect she deserves.

Thanks, DJ

pathstar · October 2001

My garage is really tight, and while backing out I have "touched" the wall with the front bumper a couple of times (the lower 2' of the wall is concrete block - I think it's called cinder block in the U.S.). Well, I can tell you the plastic is black under the paint (it touched so lightly I couldn't hear or feel it). I'm going to get one of the Australian made "bush bars", which are actually full aluminum bumpers with a small grill bar on top and a winch mounting spot. Check out the fantastic looks of the ARB one:

http://www.arb.com.au/content/bull_bar_blowups/Nissan_3.htm

That's their "Sahara" bar - my 2001 is Sahara beige - it's destiny ;-) .

"East Coast" also make an aluminum "bush bar":

http://www.ecb.com.au/frames_page.htm

Thanks to others on this site for listing the companies. I'm told the East Coast units aren't imported, so you may have to buy from Australia if you want theirs. ARB stuff is imported by several dealers.

I expect the cost to be around $1,000 USD ($1500+ Can), but it's worth it to get a real bumper (one you can "bump" something with and have virtually no damage). I haven't yet deceided how I'm going to finish the aluminum, Sahara beige paint (plastic two part "epoxy"), natural aluminum, or something else. I'm still waiting for an ARB dealer to get back to me on exact cost and availability.

captainron · October 2001

For what it's worth, I think the ARB bull bar looks much better. It seems to follow the lines of the Pathfinder better than the "East Coast" bumper options.

As I mentioned in a previous post, I saw a 2001 Pathfinder at an off-road expo here in California two weeks ago. It had the ARB aluminum bull bar exactly as pictured on the ARB site. It was painted to match the bronzed gray paint of the Pathfinder, but the black "bumpers" were left black and the "Hoop" was left in chrome. It looked great! It had a Warn winch mounted, Old Man Emu lifted coil springs and an ARB air locker in the rear differential. All in all, a nice clean setup.

Captain Ron. . .

woodyr1 · October 2001

Hi:

You may like to check with Waag (waag.com). I know they manufacture a rear bumper guard, and they have distributors in Canada.

Woody in BC

pondfull5 · October 2001

For those of you who have to change your CD. Changer from the Dealer, and had your CDS. stucked in the Changer. Please contact the Service & Parts Manager, he or she is responsible of making sure that you get your CDS. back.(let them be aware that you want your CDS. back in advance.)

My CDS. were returned ten days after it was serviced since June 10th. by Clarion Corp. of America. But I never bothered to call to find out. I just picked those six CDS. this morning when I took the PF in for the just recall service.
Full5.

pondfull5 · October 2001

Has any one adjusted their rear brakes lately?. And if so, how did you do it?.

The dealer wanted $65.00 to do it. They said it is not covered under the warranty.

Thanks in advance.

Full5.

dieselone · October 2001

In short, basically take it easy the 1st 1000 miles.

sabre66 · October 2001

It rained like a monsoon here last night so i threw the Path into Auto mode. When i got home i backed into my garage to park and when i shut off the truck this loud "clunk" occurred. It sounded like the differential for the Auto 4wd. Has anyone else noticed this and is it normal?

My feeling is the linkage was binding up due to backing it into the garage and when i shut her down, the pressure was cut and the linkage just slacked creating the "clunk" sound.

Also, here's another Auto4wd question. The manual says not to engage Auto4wd at speeds above 50mph but it doesn't say what the maximum speed you can drive at is when in Auto4wd. And how about 4wd-Hi? Is there a limit in either of these modes? Do any of you always drive in Auto4wd even at highway speeds?

Thanks,
S-66

xplorx4 · October 2001

Sabre- From what I've heard on this bbs and others, the clunking sound at engine shutoff is normal. As you suspected, it has something to do with the viscous coupling in the transfer case "unlocking" the front and rear drivelines.

As for the "50 mph" dilemma, there are many opinions on this. My take is that Nissan figures you shouldn't be driving faster than 50mph when you feel the need for additional traction. It's unsafe. Nissan doesn't want some moron suing them because he was doing 80mph when he engaged 4wd on snow and crashed, claiming the 4WD didn't do its job.

Don't use 4-Hi (or 4-Lo) on any high-traction surface. (Wet pavement is still a high-traction surface, so use either 2WD or auto-4). There is no mechanical limit for maximum speed in auto-4 or 4-hi. It's more a matter of "Why the heck are you driving over 50mph on a low-traction surface? Do you have a death wish?"

sabre66 · October 2001

My main worry is doing damage to the 4wd tranfer case and driveline by driving with Auto4wd engaged at over 50mph. I'm not talking 100mph or anything but typical highway speeds 70 or 75mph. I've read conflicting reports on the message board about how the Auto system realy doesn't engage the front wheels until a slip is noted, therefore driving at high speeds shouldn't affect it. Others say they never take it out of Auto and others say only to use it when needed.

My persoanl feeling is that the "clunk" noise seems to suggest that the transfer case is feeling some strain just having the Auto4wd engaged, so high speeds may not be the best idea.

I've owned two Subarus and both were great vehicles with a great all wheel drive system. You could take corners at 60 mph and never break a sweat. And in the rain and snow it was WOT with no worries. If the Path's is anything similar then i'd suspect it'll hold up to almost anything, but i'll still take the conservative route with it (for now).

Thanks,
S-66

sabre66 · October 2001

Has anyone towed their boat or camper yet and how big and how much does it/they weigh? What was your experience towing with the Path?

I'd like to get a boat or trailer next summer, but i'm not sure what's the maximum size or either i can pull with the Path.

Thanks,
S-66

drew_ · October 2001

From what I understand, once auto-4WD mode is engaged, it is okay to drive it above 50 mph. In "auto" mode, the system does transfer power to the front wheels usually only when there is rear wheel slippage. Leaving it in 2WD mode most of the time would defeat the purpose of having an auto system, in my humble opinion :-)

For more detailed 4WD discussions, you may also want to check out the 4WD & AWD systems explained discussion topic.

Hope this helps!

Drew
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards

lesg2 · October 2001

Sabre66

I use my 01 Pathfinder to tow my boat, it weighs around 2700 lbs. 01 Pathy with automatic is rated for 5000 lbs. My trailer has brakes for added safety. As for power there's plenty. No problem on boat ramps or accelerating. I drive 70 on the interstate no problem, it even starts creeping up to 80 if I don't pay attention. Just don't use overdrive while towing as it will ruin your transmission.

Happy Trails...
Les G

sabre66 · October 2001

Les,
Thanks for the info. When you say "don't use overdrive" do you mean only when going up hills and launching at the docks, or do you mean never use it all when towing? My reason for asking is that traveling at 70mph or so on the highway in 3rd gear seems like it would be harder on the engine/tranny than putting it in overdrive (since you already have momentum). Just curious.

Also what make and what size boat do you have (i.e. ski boat, fishing boat, pontoon boat)? Does the 2700 lb you state include the trailer weight?

I'm interested in a ski boat that's large enough for 5-6 people and gear, but i don't know how large or heavy one like that is. I need to go check out some boat showrooms and get an idea, but i thought some folks on this board might be able to help.

Drive safe,
S-66

smithmd · October 2001

Sounds to me like you'll be looking for something in the 18 - 20 foot range for boats. Anything in that range should be fine for towing. My father has a 21-footer. The boat weighs around 3000 pounds and the trailer is about a 1000 pounds. Add fuel and gear and I'm sure that it's getting close to that 5,000 pound limit.

I've only towed this boat once and it was for a short distance. I have a '99.5 which means I only have 170 hp and 200 ft-lbs of torque. While I would never win any drag races, I didn't have any problems.

I used 4-Low to pull the boat up the ramp when we were pulling the boat out. I probably didn't absolutely need to, but the ramp was wet and I figure that the lower gearing will put less strain on some of the drivetrain. As soon as I got to the top of the ramp, I put the truck back into 2wd.

Have fun shopping for boats. I know it's not exactly on topic, but if you've got the dough, go for a Cobalt! If not, I understand. I personally own a 41 year-old 14-foot aluminum v-hull with a 33 year-old 6 horse motor. By the way, the Pathfinder pulls it just fine.

pathstar · October 2001

Yes, you can drive at any speed in auto-4WD, as there is a clutch in-line to limit any damaging driveline torque.
Just a heads-up, however. I'm convinced I get much better mileage in 2WD compared to auto-4WD (10 to 20% difference). I've been comparing it on highway trips this summer and last summer. I'd like to hear if anyone else has noticed this. BTW, here in Edmonton I pretty much have to leave it in auto-4WD from the end of October to April (we have real winter here). So it only "clunks" and lurches in winter ;-) . For those that don't remember, mine lurches in the following manner:
1. Warm or cold, put vehicle in drive or reverse and move it (any amount, just so long as it moves). It seems it has to be in auto-4WD though.
2. Put vehicle in park (emergency brake on for safty).
3. After about 2 to 4 sec. of idling, the vehicle lurches - it will move 2 to 5 cm if the brake is not on. It lurches in the direction of the gear it was previously moved in (forward for drive and rearward if reverse).
As with others, this concerned me, and of course the dealer said it was odd, but they did nothing.
I shrug my shoulders and think "oh well".

Also, the ARB Sahara bull bar (bumper) was quoted at $2050 Can. by Four Wheel Wholesale yesterday. I'm still recovering from shock.

captainron · October 2001

Pathstar...

I just read your post and was shocked as well at the price of an ARB bull bar. Given that, I did some digging. This link: http://www.4wheelparts.com/product2.asp?imseqn=1014&occlass=BULL&cat=TUB

shows the full winch mount ARB bumper for $610.95 from 4 wheel parts wholesalers. Add to that painting to match the body color (I was quoted) $274.00. Okay, throw in an 8000# Warn Winch at $724.00 and you're now up to $1608.95. Okay...I'm starting to get how this adds up. Installation at around $400? Should be an easy install unless it requires cutting and/or welding.

Anyway you look at it though, the ARB bumper is only slightly more than its competition. If you want that look, a winch mount or the extra approach angles, you gotta do it.

You're probably looking at a heavier set of front springs to take the extra 100# of winch/bumper weight. Okay, Old Man Emu makes the set...I'd guess about $250/end lifted a couple of inches, so you'll want to do the rears as well. That's $500 + around $400 for install. Heck, while you're at it you should throw in an ARB air locker ($650), an on-board air compressor ($189) and installation ($350). Now your front bumper swap is running into the $4,000+ range! : )

Oh, did I mention bigger tires at around $500?

You know we'll all want to see pics if you do this!

Captain Ron. . .

dieselone · October 2001

Sabre66,

I tow my 3200lb boat with my 01 Path LE. It tows this weight without a problem. I've never needed 4low or even 4wd for pulling the boat out of the lake. I do have trailer brakes and you should have them for any load over 2000lbs. As for towing in overdrive I've heard and read many opinions. I really think it depends on the vehicle and the load your towing. Before I had the Pathfinder, I towed my boat with a Mercury Villager and NEVER used o/d because it didn't have enough torque to stay in o/d and I was very close to the max tow limit on that vehicle. With the pathfinder I use o/d when towing over a long distances on flat terrain at speeds of 65+. Below 65 I do not use o/d. Boats don't drag air like a box trailer or a large camper. So the resistance is much less with a boat. Like I mentioned, at 70mph in o/d with boat in tow I can still accelerate if needed w/o kicking out of o/d. You don't want the transmission constantly shifting in and out of o/d. That causes heat build up and more wear and tear. I'm sure I'll start a debate over towing in o/d, but If I thought I was stressing the vehicle I wouldn't tow in o/d.

As for boat shopping, your in for a treat. I can't think of a better family function during the summer(just my opinon). Plus, with the economic climate it should definitely be a buyers market. The best advice I can give you is to decide what you plan to do with your boat and what your needs will be. I don't think you can buy to big (with in reason) or to much power. Most first boats are outgrown in a suprisingly short time. For example, 2 years ago I bought a '98 FourWinns 17' bowrider w/ 190hp 4.3L I/O. Plenty of power for skiing and top speed over 50mph. That's all fine and dandy but with one 3 year old and another another on the way then add freinds, and I can already see where we'll need a larger boat in a few years. On my 17 footer 4 people is fine, but anymore than 4 and people start to bump into one another. I wouldn't go under 19' if you often plan on having more than 6 people aboard. Another thing to consider is trailered weight. I figured my setup was well under 3,000lbs until I took it to a public scale and saw 3200lbs on the ticket. With our Pathfinders, I wouldn't go over 4,000lbs for the boat and trailer. By the time you add people and gear, you can approach max gross vehicle weight quickly. Also check out www.trailerboats.com a great boating magazine with a helpful forum.

good luck

xplorx4 · October 2001

Here's my take on when to use O/D.

First, a little background on why O/D is not recommended for towing. The use of O/D allows the engine to rotate slower per mph to improve fuel efficiency. This sometimes has the side effect of putting the engine slightly out of its optimum power range for pulling heavy loads or climbing hills. Consequently, the transmission must downshift. If you're at the magic speed where "D" is too low a gear and "OD" is too high a gear, the tranny will constantly shift up and down. The major factor that causes heat buildup is the slipping of the AT torque converter (which is the A/T equivalent of a clutch). The TC slips between every gear change, and locks when cruising. Under heavy loads, such as climbing up hills or towing, the TC does not lock, but continues to slip. (This has the effect of putting the engine in its power band and the TC - by design - can multiply the engine torque better when there is slippage.) However, the heat buildup caused by the slipping TC can damage the transmission, which is why transmission oil coolers are highly recommended for towing.

You can easily observe the TC lock/unlock effect by peforming the following experiment:

Start out on the open highway at a speed around 60mph with OD on. Your RPM should be somewhere well below 2500. Lightly and steadily apply pressure to the gas pedal until you notice the RPM abruptly increases by 200-400 RPM. Lightly let off the gas, and note that the RPM goes back down by about 200-400 RPM. The observed RPM difference (without a corresponding change in MPH) is due to the TC being locked/unlocked.

Now try this: Start out on the open highway (best performed when going up hill) at a speed around 60mph with OD on. Now apply the gas until you notice that the RPM abruptly jumps by a minimum of 1000-1200 RPM. The transmission has downshifted into 3rd gear ("D") with the TC unlocked. While still accelerating, press the O/D OFF button and note that the RPM goes down by about 200-400RPM. This LOCKS the TC in 3rd gear ("D").

So, the bottom line is this: your transmission builds up extra heat anytime the TC is unlocked. Under sustained periods when the TC is unlocked, the heat cannot be dissipated, breaks down the transmission oil and damages the transmission.

So my practice is to have O/D always on EXCEPT when:
1) I notice that the TC cannot remain locked for extended periods of time.
2) I want to use engine braking when going downhill.

I kind of treat the O/D button as a "manual shifter."

If you want to know more about how torque converters work, visit http://www.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm

smithmd · October 2001

xplorx4 - very good explanation.

Dieselone - pulling the boat up the ramp, I use 4-low to lessen the strain on my truck as much as I can...not because I necessarily need to. I don't need to use 4-low, but then if I had a way to use 2nd gear instead of 1st, I could probably still pull the boat up the ramp...just with more strain on the drive train.

On a 5-speed Pathfinder, you can start from a stop and drive away all in 5th gear. You have to slip the clutch a lot and lug the motor, but you can do it. Do you want to? No. It's probably not good for the truck. That's the same reason I use 4-low for pulling the boat up the ramp. I've got the lower gear; why not use it?

I do the same thing with my father's truck when pulling the boat out of the water...and he drives a 4x4 Expedition with the big V8. You don't have to do it with that truck for sure! But why not make it easier on the truck?

sabre66 · October 2001

Thanks dieselone, smithmd and xplorx4 for all the great info. I guess it'll all come down the size boat i decide to buy.

Have any of you added the oil cooler to your truck yet? If so how much did it run ya and is it worth it?

S-66

smithmd · October 2001

I haven't added it, yet, because I don't tow with the Pathfinder very often...I usually use Dad's Expedition. But, I plan to do more towing in the future, so I'm definitely interested in the cooler, too.

The other thing you might want to look into is air springs for the rear. I think it was xplorx4 that installed a set on his truck. At some point, I'll probably do the same.

bimmer4me · October 2001

Has anyone else experienced little rattles/vibrations coming from the center dash area? It almost sounds as if the 6 cd's I have loaded in the changer is the culprit. Is this posssible? Could it be the magazine that holds the cd's? I really don't trust the Nissan dealer to have them try and resolve this rattle issue by only creating more rattles than what I started with. The thought of having my dash dis-assemble makes me nervous. Other than my Pathfinders thirsty appetite for fuel, I'm still enjoying it very much.

dieselone · October 2001

I haven't added a trans cooler because I figure I should be ok since the Pathfinder is rated to tow 5000 pounds the way it's equiped from the mfg. If I was towing close to the 5000lb max, I would definitely add the cooler. Also, if I were to every see the trans temp light come on I'd definitely add a cooler. Since my Pathfiner is leased I'll only have it a few years. If I were to keep it and tow for many miles I'd probably add an external cooler.

As for 4 low on a lauch ramp, I don't use it because all of the ramps around here are cement. The ramp I go to the most requires a tight turn and I don't think that would be good on the driveline especially with the boat in tow. I usually will just use 4auto and it works fine.

highup · October 2001

I had a rattle in the dashboard area that drove me nuts for a couple of weeks. I went as far as pulling the radio and glovebox and reaching in looking for anything loose that may be causing this rattle. This rattle always occured when braking or slowing. I had my wife drive one day so that I can be extra ready to hear that rattle. First stop sign at the end of the block she hits the brakes and there was that rattle. She reaches up to the overhead sunglass holder pops it open and pulls out my clip-on sunglasses, "I got your rattle right here". I guess years of exposure to High End stereo did a number on my spatial awareness...bwaaaaaaa.

smithmd · October 2001

Yeah, 4-low would be a bad idea on a ramp that has a sharp turn. I've only used paved ramps for Dad's boat, but they have always been straight. I definitely wouldn't use 4wd if there were a turn on dry pavement involved.

smithmd · October 2001

My sunglasses did the same thing in the holder. I now wrap them in a small piece of cloth when I put them in there. No more rattle!

bgritz · October 2001

Rattle:
I have a rattle, but it's a very strange one. It seems to be coming from a spot left of the shifter area-at about floor level. When I start or stop I can hear it faintly. I can tap on the area where the carpet angles up from the floor, and I get the rattle. It's actually more like someone left a socket on the floor and carpeted over it and it rolls/rattles in that area where the carpet does not sitting tight against the structure. I may lift out the carpet a bit too see, but it's not that loud and I haven't had the time lately to mess with it.

Air Springs:
My brother-in-law just added some air shocks to his Cherokee for about $120 for the parts. He ran one tube back from each one and mounted a Schraeder valve on each at his hitch. That way he can easily adjust the pressure for each side w/o the need for a compressor underneath. I was struck with the simplicity and effectiveness. He puts 60 psi in each side and can carry 300 lbs tongue weight with no sagging. Max pressure on the shocks is 90 psi and it raises his rear about 2.5 inches. He normally drives them at about 35-40 psi.
Just another option to the slick setup/bags that xplorx4 uses.

marks1970 · October 2001

Sorry if anyone has asked this already, but this forum's search engine is pathetic.

Anyway, I have a 2000 Pathy with a rock chip in it. I want to replace it, but the fact that it has that one antenna built into the windshield is making me concerned.

Anyone know if it is a big deal to replace it? Also, is replacing windshields in general nowadays a pretty simple process? I don't want to have to worry about water or air leaks (I can't imagine driving around with a whistling noise all the time).

Thanks!

jwasai · October 2001

My pathfinder is just 6mos old and the engine's rpm at startup intermittantly runs to zero and the service engine light stays on. I toke it to the Nissan dealer more than 3 times and each time, they do something to it and then it returns after a week.Has anyone else had a similiar problem, also had to replace windshield due to a chip rock.

lspangler · October 2001

My 10 month old PF is developing some personality. My clutch spring makes noise when easing the cluth out slowly and my passenger side window is slow and very squeaky. I guess I will have to visit the dealer to get things taken care of. Other than that, no problems to report and I am now getting almost 19 mpg on every tank!!

xplorx4 · October 2001

If you've taken it to the dealer three times and they haven't fixed the problem yet, you may be able to qualify for the "lemon law".
You mentioned "they do something to it". It would help you (and us) if you knew what exactly they did to it.
i.e.: Customer complains "Check engine light is on, engine RPM goes to ZERO. Check and advise"
Mechanic writes: Rotated tires and filled windshield washer fluid. Reset "Check Engine" light. Problem went away.
Obviously this absurd example won't fix the problem.
Does the dealer do the same thing every time (which doesn't seem to be working)? Or do they try different things each time your problem happens?

Nissan Pathfinder

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