Nissan Pathfinder

sshevin · January 2002

Given that there has been many posts on the subject, perhaps some of our Canadian neighbors could discuss their purchase experiences, MSRP, final price, incentives, etc. in Canadian dollars. One should be able to translate the CN currency into US. Todays exchange rate is $1 CN equals $0.6208 US.

meca2 · January 2002

This bulletin only pertains to trannies that
slip when cold. Not when the trans is at normal
operating temp.

couimet · January 2002

I agree that one of my disappointments with my PF is the 12V outlets that don't remain on to keep my cell phone charged.

I appreciate the guidance but paranoid as I am, pictures would help. Any way someone could post a few pictures documenting the modification?

Very much appreciated ...

nwwoods · January 2002

[Deleted the original #4354 because I spoke too soon.]

On 2001 and newer models (at least), the relay that powers the 12V sockets also appears to power the sensor for automatic headlights, as well as the temperature & compass display. The modification to force the relay closed is simple (even a half of a toothpick & piece of electrical tape to hold it would work), but it's not a solution for "always-on" to the 12V sockets on newer models since you get other stuff also always on. It was pretty funny when I turned the garage lights off and the headlights flicked on by themselves.

xplorx4 · January 2002

That's too bad! Maybe there's some other way around this. Are you sure you're modifying the correct power relay? On earlier models (ex: 97) the rear socket is on a different relay circuit than the front, and the compass/temp etc. is linked to the front socket's circuit for some reason (but not the rear). Also, the relay labeling may have changed for 01+ models. If not and that's the way it is, BUMMER!

meca2 · January 2002

There has been several opinions on what type of fuel to put
in our PF. If you look in Edmonds New car section under Nissan
Pathfinder you will find "regular unleaded fuel" Why is this?

rob0975 · January 2002

Hi folks,
Last winter my cloth seats got soaked with Resolve carpet cleaner and was wet for awhile..I tried vacuuming it and drying it out for days..It eventually felt dry but this winter when I sit on the seat it sounds like I'm sitting on crunched ice..The seat cloth is also worn out and shredding where I had been scrubbing dry..
I dont know if I need new seat covers or the cushion too..Anyone know how much it would run for driver/passenger seats..Is there anyway to add power to the seats on an SE without leather..
I hate that turn knob thing..It never stays at the heighest level,which is where i need it b/c of long legs..Thanks
-Rob

skips2 · January 2002

Chitturi:

In October 2001, I purchased a 2001 Pathfinder LE with everything except ENT and NAV for $30,200. At the time, Nissan was offering 0.9% financing up to 36 months and 3.9% financing for 48 and 60 months. I chose 3.9% at 60 months. In addition, I received $1500 cash back.Nissan was trying to move the 2001 Pathfinders since 2002 Pathfinders were hitting the lots. I think it is only at the end of the model year that you will likely see both the low interest rate and cash back being offered. By the way, my price of $30,200 was after subtracting the $1500 cash back. Also, I did'nt have to make a payment until 90 days later. I got the dealer to throw in a $135 Nissan dog gate, 2 free oil changes, and 3 free car washes. Overall, not a bad deal.

yoeddy · January 2002

In regard to the Technical Service Bulletin (NTB00084), how can I get a copy of this? My truck has this problem and I'd like to show the TSB to the service manager when I drop off the truck. Thanks

nwwoods · January 2002

Yep, I'm sure I modified the correct relay. I checked by pulling the relay, turning the ignition key to ACC, and verifying the 12v sockets (console & cargo area) had no power. I also performed the reverse test with the other relays on the panel. Additionally, the correct relay has "ACC" inscribed on the panel next to it.

Since the fuse for the console and rear sockets on this model is under the hood about 6" from the battery (#64 from lofquist's documentation, and verified), I tried jumpering hot to fuse #64 but no dice. The relay has to be energized to get juice to the sockets. But when you energize the relay, you also get juice to the other stuff mentioned before.

I can't see a way around this without hacking the wiring -- i.e., eliminating the relay from the circuit for the outlets completely, and then jumpering hot to their fuse on the underhood block. Jon, you have the wiring diagrams, is this at all feasible?

It sure would be nice to understand Nissan's rationale for making the power sockets only be hot when the switch is in ACC or higher. I don't know of any other vehicle where the sockets aren't always hot. Is there one?
Is the repair manual on CDROM still available for 2001's?

p_g_00 · January 2002

SE 4WD is part time, meaning can only be engaged on slippery surface, right? I thought SE is my choice, but I can leave 4WD on on 4Runner SR5 all the time, which made me lean towards 4Runner, what do you think?

lofquist · January 2002

sshevin,
I'm not Canadian, but I do get notes back from lots of people who are going to Canada to get their Pathfinders. Here's some examples of what I've seen lately for prices. I've converted them to US dollars, and also added 2.5% for duty at the border.

- Path SE AWD (All-Mode, not the part-time one), Popular pkg, Sunroof pkg, LSD. $24,400. About $4000 under US dealer invoice.
- Path Chilkoot Special Edition, auto, AWD All-Mode. Essentially a base SE, but with Bose and LSD. $22,100. About $4700 under equivalent US dealer invoice.
- Path LE AWD with leather, LSD. $27,100. About $4100 under US dealer invoice.
- Infiniti QX4 AWD, Premium pkg, heated seats, sunroof. $29,400. About $5600 under US dealer invoice.

These Canadian prices are well below list, and I don't think you'll find them everywhere. We've been fortunate to find some great dealers to call. Toronto and Vancouver are still the best, but you could go about anywhere. As usual, I'm happy to help anyone with more info on how to do this. Just email.

-Jon

lofquist · January 2002

All maunal trans models come with the part-time system. It's actually very good. I shift on the fly all the time, even at highway speeds.

SE automatic trans models in the US also have the part-time. In Canada SE models with automatic trans get the All-Mode AWD system.

-Jon

lofquist · January 2002

I fear I'd better clarify my short note from last week on this topic. There are of course three power sockets on our Pathfinders (I'm using my 2001 shop manual here).

Dash socket. This is fed directly by the accessory (ACC) relay in the dash fusebox through fuse #13. As nwwoods has seen, modifying this relay is not a good thing because power would then be fed to accessories all over the vehicle. To get constant power at this socket will require a little rewiring. It's late tonight - let's look at that later. Shouldn't be too difficult.

Rear seat socket. This is fed by the battery through fuse #64 (under the hood) and then through a relay above and to the left of the dash fusebox. This relay is energized by the ACC relay through fuse #29. Bypass (modify) this relay and you will have constant power to the socket. Note that this relay is not IN the fusebox, but ABOVE it. Pull out the fusebox cover and look up. The relay points up. It's the one on the left. It's much smaller than the ones directly plugged into the box.

Rear cargo area socket. This is exactly like the rear seat socket, but instead it's fed through fuse #51 (under the hood). The relay for this one is behind the panel on the left (yes left) side of the cargo area. Look in the little "grill" opening and you will see the Bose amplifier. It's right next to that. Again, bypassing that relay will provide constant power to the socket.

Is this helpful folks? Still want to get constant power to the dash, or is the easy fix for the rear seat socket good enough?

nwwoods, yes the shop manual is still available. It's $215 I think from Nissan. Lots of .pdf files. Drop me an email.

-Jon

sivi1 · January 2002

I pulled a 2000# trailer for 10,000 miles from Pa to Fl with 96 4 runner only 180 hp. Used cruise control and shifted like crazy. Never hurt transmission. Bought 02 Pathfinder and made 1000 mile trip with the same trailer. Used cruise control and shifted about 1/3 as much. Don't expect it to hurt transmission either.

couimet · January 2002

I've only ever owned two vehicles where the 12V plugs are energised only when the switch is in ACC or higher - My 2000 PF SE and my wife's 2000 Accord EX.

pathstar · January 2002

Most Japanese vehicles have the cig. and acc. sockets switch off with the acc. lead. I installed an Amateur radio in my 2001 LE and did the following:
1. Run a #12 cable (both leads + and -) from the battery back to the firewall, across the firewall to the drivers side. About 18" down on the drivers side you will see a plate held on with two nuts - remove these, remove the plate. I drilled a hole in the plate and fed the cable through with a strain relief grommet (there is a bar across the hole in the firewall so you have to ensure your hole in the plate will not align with the bar). I then reinstalled the plate.

At the battery I inserted an in-line fuse on the +ve lead (4" from the battery terminal). In the cabin, I terminated the cable in a small cast aluminum box. I use "Molex" two pin plugs as my 12VDC standard. I put eight of these on the box, four are powered directly from the battery, and 4 are powered through a relay in the box, which is energised from acc. power. There is a large elecrolytic capacitor on the battery input to the box.

This gives me switched and unswitched "filtered" power to run all my electronic "toys", such as radios, radar detectors, GPS, etc. The box and wiring is hidden in the console (The acc. lead for the relay comes from the acc. plug in the console).

p_g_00 · January 2002

But I thought part-time 4WD was not supposed to be used on dry pavement. What are the choices on your SE? 2WD/4WD Hi/4WD Low, right? So you leave it on 4WD Hi on highway?

lofquist · January 2002

p_g,
Yes those are the choices. And no you should not go long distances on dry pavement in 4wd (with either system). But assume I'm on the highway in 2hi and it starts snowing and the road is covered with snow. I then just pull back on the stick and I'm then in 4hi. No slowing down, no stopping. Road gets better? Then just push it back to 2hi. Very easy.

Even if I had the All-mode, I'd turn to 4hi on snow covered roads. "Auto" is nice, but when traction is low, don't wait to get into trouble.
-Jon

jeffho830 · January 2002

Hi, I was wondering if it possible to make the center console socket hot with the dome lights come on? Basically the same characteristic as the dome light. I want to maybe run a light from that area to the shine toward the front passenger footwell. Also if possible, run a light to the outside to light the step bar and the ground below it for better getting in and out condition at night. Can this be done? Also I had been trying to locate the flasher relay for a long time but still can't find it. Can you tell me where is the flasher relay is located? Thanks in advance.

Jeff

g159 · January 2002

Hey, p g 00 it looks like you are trying to decide between a part time 4wd and full time awd system. The big difference between them is the ability to drive on rainy streets or changing surfaces. If you live where it rains alot and you have to make a lot of left hand unprotected turns (this is about the only time I use full throttle) then awd is better. If you live in a cold environment where there will be snow that melts away or is half removed, so that the street is half icy or driveways half icy then awd is better. In deep snow, there is no difference. Personally, on a new expensive fully warrantied vehicle I would expect awd by this model year...but if I lived in a sunny southern state that didnt have much trouble with mixed street conditions, or if it was a used vehicle and I wanted something simpler=more reliable, then pt 4wd would do ok. However, I would not buy pt4wd with no limited rear slip, because of driving on rainy slick roads would not have enough traction.

p_g_00 · January 2002

lofquist, I got it. Thanks!

g159, thanks for all your input. I have the same thoughts as you: if I am going to get a new truck at almost 30k, I better get it right. I was looking at PT SE and 4Runner SR5, both at same price range, but SR5 has ATRAC, VSC, multi-mode 4WD, and nice looking attracts me. Yet I like PF's power and less truck like riding. Now since I know the SE is kinda traditional 4WD, I might just save some money and get a LE or wait until this fall for the new 4Runner coming out. I am not in a hurry.

nwwoods · January 2002

Jon, thanks for the detailed description. I had the wrong relay before. The correct relay is smaller as you mentioned and a little hard to reach, but it slides out by pulling downward (on the relay, not the wires).

The moving part of the relay is not visible even after removing the cover, so I instead eliminated the relay entirely and just jumpered the appropriate pins (3 & 5) on the connector (there's really only 4 pins, but the relay cover documents them as 1,2,3 & 5). Poof, now there is constant power to the console power outlet as well as the cargo area power outlet. Yay!

It was pretty simple once the correct thing to bypass was identified. I took pictures & will post if people want.

lofquist · January 2002

The flasher unit is behind the fuse box. It does not look from the manual like it's real easy to get to (I don't have the Path today to check myself). Terminal 1 is power in. Terminal 3 is out to the lights. Terminal 2 is ground. I don't think it's a traditional relay, but instead a solid state unit.

For the dome light additions, you can tie into the smart entrance controller unit. There is one terminal on it (#8) that is grounded whenever the dome light is on (door open, etc). The only thing is that you would not be able to shut off these extra lights like you can with the dome light switch. Nor would you be able to turn them on manually. A relay would be needed to not overload current through the smart entrance controller.

The smart entrance controller is located just to the right of the fuse box. It has two connectors with a total of 42 positions. Terminal 8 is on the white connector (18 positions) and has a red/black stripe wire.

-Jon

admin_ruf · January 2002

Need to update my CD from 2001 (what came with the PF) to the latest 2002. I noticed that some roads that are now diverted are not accurately represented anymore.

How do I go about getting an updated CD?

mney6 · January 2002

Call 1-800-777-0325 Navigation Helpdesk

pitrott · January 2002

Dude,
What Ver # of the nav software do you have? if it is 5.1 hold off to this Sep when 5.2 comes out, also go to ur Nissan Dealer and they can install the latest hardware upgrade u will get the latest frimware updates and that will give you the Nissan globe at startup!

now ruff, have u noticed on some courts and roads have this symbol a tic mark the dot then tic mark all attached what r these for?
R
Pit

lcc1059 · January 2002

has anybody lost the key? is calling the dealer the only way to get it back? how much does it cost? need advise

shek3 · January 2002

My dealer wants $49 for a key and then 1/2 hour labor to reprogram all remaining keys........around $80 total....mike

jeffho830 · January 2002

Hi, I have a 01 Pathfinder and need to adjust the headlight. Can someone tell me where is the screws/nuts to adjust the level of the headlight? Thanks in advance.

Jeff

lofquist · January 2002

The shop manual shows only a single adjustment screw. But without the Path in front of me (as usual, the wife got it this morning) it's hard to describe the location. The screw appears to be horizontal, not verticle as I would expect. Also the pic only shows ONE screw. There has to be one for up/down and one for side-to-side. Every other car I've had is this way. Email me and I could send you the page with the picture.
-Jon
jonlofquist@aol.com

danog · January 2002

I haven't lost one yet, but did get one squashed. The key still works and the fob does too, but they will not go back together. Dealer wants $125 to replace. Not going to even bother replacing it!

Dano

danog · January 2002

We are reaching the 30K service. Has anyone reached this with their '01 yet? Should I go with the dealers 30K service? I've never paid for a complete service package because it is always over priced! Some of the items can be done yourself allowing you to save money.

xplorx4 · January 2002

Ask the dealer what they do for the 30K service (besides the customary check this, check that), use the information to service what you want to do yourself, then ask the dealership to do the stuff that you don't want to do (and therefore are willing to pay for), but don't tell them it's for the 30K mile service. They'll probably give you some line about it being a package deal. If you don't want to have them do it, have the same work performed 'a la carte' by your favorite trustworthy mechanic.

austin_p · January 2002

Just wanted to give a big thanks out to Jon for all of his help in buying my new PF. I bought it from Richmond Nissan in BC and only had 4 KM on it when I picked it up. I cannot believe how easy it was bringing it back into the states. If any of you are considering it, I would definitely do it. Only took 10min at US customs and I was on my way.

Now for my first question. Does anyone know a way to get the climate controll to show up in Farenheit insteat of Celcius?

Thanks

Bryan

p_g_00 · January 2002

Bryan, did you change the speedo/odo yet? could you share your price info if it's okay for you? thanks.

lofquist · January 2002

Bryan,
Glad you had a great experience. What a way to save a few thousand.

The change on the climate control to degF is to disconnect a single ground wire on the back of the unit. I'll send you the instructions.

-Jon

baddestbob1 · January 2002

On my 'o1 there is a button on display that changes reading. Believe it's mentioned in manual. Also be sure to change compass reading as outlined in manual. I didn't bother to change speedo to miles from kilometers. MPH is indicated on speedo; odometer is easily calculated conversion, .621 km=mileage. Why spend the 200 to 300 bucks?

lofquist · January 2002

Bob,
Nice to hear from you. What we're referring to is the temperature display on the automatic climate control system. Since you and I both have SE's with the manual knobs we don't have any changes to make.
-Jon

pathy57 · January 2002

Someone asked not too long ago about 30,000 mile service. I just had mine done. Grap Hold of your wallet. $370.00 plus charges for fluids of $161.40. Total of $540.00

They do alot of checking and changing fluids which includes oil, filter, grease whatever you get for regular service and rotate tires. Alot of money which includes transmission fluids antifreeze whole bit. I felt probably for investiment a good deal. Vehicle has been very good to me and I love it. I am not hard on vehicle I feel that if this was scheduled at 50000 miles it would make more sense. If I off roaded maybe 30000 would be o.k. At any rate is is done and over with. Like someone else said may be better to ask questions and pick and choose. Service Manager said they just reduced charge at first of year and dealers in large areas are getting alot more. Maybe if you are in big city check boondocks for cheaper deal.

rob0975 · January 2002

Hi,
I'm considering selling my PF and am wondering what price I should ask..I have an 01 Black SE w/
tan cloth int,6cd bose,moonroof,in cabin microfilter,auto,etc..Im in NJ..The meilage is around 14,000..I actually bought the PF in Sept
2000..It is in excellent cond..KBB gives an approx
for retail & trade in, but was wondering what sounds like a fair price..Thanks
-Robert

danog · January 2002

WOW, $540 for a 30K service? I guess that is how much it costs. I haven't started checking around yet, but I sure hope I can get that down by at least half. Was there an itemization listing on the receipt? If so, was there anything that comprised a large amount?

I checked this weekend on our LE with leather packaged similar to your SE and it shows $21,000 with 28K miles. Depending on your payoff I would make sure it was covered. I haven't seen many used newer model Pathy's for sale. Seem most owners like then that much!

Dano

sdawson713 · January 2002

I would definately say sell it on your own. I know my store, NJ as well, picked up an 01 LE for about 22,000 from auction. An SE would probably be around 21.

I'd put it in the paper for 24.

Why do you want to get rid of it?

Sid

lofquist · January 2002

$540!! Wow! I just looked down the maintenance schedule again and there's really not that much special to do. I plan on replacing just about every fluid there is and I still won't hit more than 2 hours and $80 in materials - and I use all synthetics at $8/qt. And people wonder why my vehicles never see the inside of a dealer service dept unless I'm desperate....
-Jon

stever · January 2002

The Edmunds Maintenance Guide estimates what your next maintenance should cost. Funny that it's always lower than what the dealers want to charge.

Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

pathstar · January 2002

I'm with you Iofquist. My 2001 LE has never seen the inside of a "service bay" since it was purchased. Same thing for my last vehicle (90 4Runner - traded it in after 11 years, and it was still running strong). Service bay translates to ripoff bay in my books. Years ago, we used to have good Japanese dealerships. Now they're the same as Chev., Ford, and Chrysler dealers.

rob0975 · January 2002

I appreciate the info on the PF selling price..I
would definitely sell it on my own..Dealers are
offering around 19-20K..I actually have 13,200mi..I thought I was at 14,000 not that it makes a difference..Sid the reason I'm thinking about selling is because I will be needing money for a ring,wedding,honeymoon,house,etc..I bought the PF in cash so I dont owe anything..I would use the cash from the sale for what I need and then look into financing something cheaper over
the next 5 years..The PF has been a great SUV though..Only big complaint (and its not that big)
is that I wish that the SE's came with power seats..I really wasnt looking to get leather seats
but if I were looking now to get a PF, I would get leather b/c of the power & heated seat option
I'm still contemplating whether to sell or not..Thanks
-Robert

pathy57 · January 2002

I agree with most of your comments. Since this is my first 4WD I wanted to insure that I keep it in perfect shape. If I off roaded alot I would not feel so bad. However to clarify this service consisted of a complete change of fluids, transmission fluid, antifreeze, engine oil, grease, rotation of tires, all filters the whole bit. The basic open the hood charge like the Maytag man entering your house is $340.00. The mechanics don't work for chump change and the dealership has to get his part. Then for all the fluids from front to back, differential and everything, the fluids totaled $161. I talked to a co-worker with a Jeep and he said the Jeep dealer wanted $850. He took to Grease Monkey Deal and had done for around half that but had to detail car out after they got done. Anyway I think before anyone other than a "do it yourselfer" better check prices before they get sticker shock. I trust this dealer, they have been very good and wash vehicle or give rain checks and treat all their customers with alot of respect. They have shuttle service and good coffee too. I don't have the time, place or skill to do it myself anymore.

I truly love this vehicle and plan to keep for a long time.

lofquist · January 2002

I certainly don't want anyone to think I might criticize a decision to go to the dealer for service. Certainly not! What I'm upset about are the dealers putting together these "service packages" which end up costing far more than what they would have charged a la carte. My case in point... A few years ago I was at the local Ford dealer and they had flyers all over for their $175 tune-up special (probably twice the price now). It must have listed 30 things they would do. But most every item said "if needed". Like adjust fuel mixture, adjust idle, install and adjust points, etc... All that stuff went out in the late 70's! The balance of the items said "inspect" this-and-that. Basically you got new spark plugs, some window washer fluid, and a quick once-over looking for other ways to make money from you. And even worse was they suggested you come in every 10,000 mi for this no matter what Ford vehicle you owned!

-Jon

xplorx4 · January 2002

Like some of you, I prefer not to pay for "scheduled maintenance" at the dealer. Instead, I do a lot of the work myself. If the different tasks are broken up, then it doesn't take one big long, greasy day of doing the work. The only things I am not interested in doing myself are the diff fluid changes and the coolant flush. The diffs plugs are a pain to remove, and the coolant must be properly disposed of. The rest is quite easy...plugs, oil change, trans oil change, air filter, all these tasks are pretty easy to do, and don't take that much time. Also, if you have installed new tires on your truck (by the tire store), the tire store usually rotates them for free.

While $540 is quite a large amount of money to pay for "maintenance" in one lump sum, it's worth it for some people to pay because they don't have to get themselves messy, spend time to fuss with it, then figure out what to do with the used fluids. (And if you don't have a good set of tools, it's a lot harder to do!)

If you aren't comfortable 'doing it yourself' and don't want to spend $540, break up the work a little. Do some of it the previous month (at 29,000K) or the following month (at 31,000K). 1,000 miles isn't going to hurt. Of course, if you do this, you have to consider there's more time without your transportation while the dealer has it.

************************
A question- those of you whose truck has never seen a service bay, what do you do for non-scheduled maintenance (within the warranty period), such as "check engine soon" light is lit, or temp gauge reads 10 degrees to high, etc? I'm asking because my "check engine soon" light is lit. I'm think it's the oxygen sensors, but since I don't have a diagnostic computer, I can't be sure.

Do most non-Nissan auto repair shops have the tools to diagnose the cause of the "check engine" light?

Nissan Pathfinder

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