Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I had pulled it from your page before, but had lost the bookmark.
Yesterday on AC there was a bit of discussion about a larger/more complete skid plate that someone was going to try and import. did you see that?
gritz
Is this a good deal? I'm in CA so don't need 4WD
but would like to be able to cart my dog and two kids around.
It seems for this price I can get a '98-99 4Runner SR5 with much higher mileage. At this basic level, how do the two compare?
JP
But, then again, I'm biased, as I love my '02 SE PF.
The champagne '01 XE is now mine.
I just need to tint the windows and slap the foglights and luggage rack on.
Thanks.
JP
Thanks...
Contrary to what I was previously told was going to happen (sorry for all my previous "no 03 Pathfinder posts",) there will be a 2003 Pathfinder that will lead up to the release of the full-size SUV, which should have Expedition-size proportions. No one will say if the full-size will be called the Pathfinder, but there is no '04 commitment. Navigation is supposed to be dropped from the '03 but other than that, don't expect any major changes.
I would appreciate any input as to what I can expect.
Thanks,
It all seems to work well, so no sense second guessing the engineers.
Before you tow cross-country (sounds like you'll be playing in the desert) consider installing a transmission cooler. It will help keep your transmission fluid from getting too hot while towing (esp. in the summer!)
Thanks,
DTS
You should see the dent this thing made!!!
So I pose some questions to you all.
1. Why does Nissan not put any sort of protection on the doors what so ever! (I looked around the parking lot and couldn't find even one car without some sort of moulding on the door)
2. Why does Nissan use such crappy thin sheet metal! (Just venting)
3. Can anyone recommend any stock/aftermarket stuff I could go with (like could you put a qx4 moulding package one?
And Finally
4. Why me
2.IR head Phones i have the same problem with the auto switch in them but i think the IR signal will match with any after market IR head phone's AKA sony
3.Renagade shopping cart... my 01 Le came with Body side moldings but of little help with a mach 3 shopping cart!
4. For all my 01 does the Path finder lurch when i turn off the p-finder and i am in 4 wheel auto
R
Pit
Is the premium fuel required or just reccommended and what happens if you don't put it in?
We're sorry, the site you are using is brain dead and we can't possibly shop for and buy your vehicles because we are too smart to use IE 6 as a browser.
I haven't seen a TSB on it yet, but I will log the problem at my next service so at least it is on the record. Anybody else (especially you Canucks) have this problem??
We're sorry, the site you are using is brain dead and we can't possibly shop for and buy your vehicles because we are too smart to use IE 6 as a browser.
Huh? www.nissandriven.com works on IE5.1 for Mac and IE4 (WinNT). So does www.nissan.ca/eng/cars/pathfinder/index.html You got a URL that requires IE6?
Thanks!
With regard to your problem with seating comfort, are you finding the seats generally too large or small? I am not familiar enough with the Pathfinder to say so I'll ask - do they have tilt control for the seat (not the back)?
tidester
Host
SUVs
1.where is the passenger side wires grommet located? looked underneath and cannot find the wires!
2. Could the original tie down bracket be mounted on top of the tow bar?
3. what is the "black box" located on the drivers side near the mounting points for the tow bar? looks to be maybe a filter or the rear window washer unit?
4. Any tips on running the wires- can this be done after the hitch is installed?
Yup, ours was 2-2.5 mph slow per my GPS w/factory rubber. When I went to the 265/70R16's, I'm now about 2.5mph high @ highway speeds. Of course I change the tires right before the 30k mark. Every car we have ever owned has been 1-3 mph slower than indicated on the speedo. note: As your tires wear and get smaller, the error will get worse because of the smaller diameter = more RPM's/mile.
dbenjamin:
I could not find a "factory made" place to slip the wiring through on our '01, so I made my own. If you remove the little cargo bin that lays below the rear panel (above the spare), there is a tiny rubber grommet that pokes out directly above the spare. I cut a little slit in it, slid the wire through, then added a bit of silicone to reseal it after I had pulled enough wire through to the receiver.
good luck
gritz
I doubt the dealer will make any attempts to correct your odometer error, but if voiding your warranty 500 miles too early is an issue, bring it up and make sure it gets into your service record. That way, if something goes wrong at 36,500 miles, you're still covered.
I had a friend put a few beads of weld on the drawbar, and it is now ok.
Hope this helps.
Hitch itself is straight forward- remove the two tie down brackets and replace with hitch bar. I torqued to 72lbs. It is easier if you remove the "black box" on the drivers side as it allows for a ratchet to fit up there.
The wiring is a real pain to thread underneath. There is not a direct line of sight between the tailight grommet and any openings underneath. The drivers side has a wiring opening, but it involves two right angles that make it very difficult to snake the wire. The passenger side was a little easier as you had access beneath the cd changer. I ended up routing both wires out the drainage hole on either side(obviously on the outside of the tube) and then ran each wire to the center where I zip tied the Black box, just behind the hitch center.
I ran the plug through the center of the hitch for storage( as it gives you about 3 ft of wire) and can remove it when its time to tow.
The tube bar tucks fairly nicely(given the spare tire) and I'll probably glue some rubber diamond mat on the top for a step.
AWD allows both driveshafts to rotate independently, and torque is applied to the front driveshaft when rear slippage occurs.
In 4HI and 4LO, the transfer case locks the front and rear driveshafts together.
The front differential on the Pathfinder is open, so if you lift one front tire off the ground, all the torque sent through the front driveshaft will be applied to the wheel off the ground.
The rear diff (on some models) is limited slip, so if one rear tire is off the ground, most of the torque sent through the rear driveshaft is applied to the wheel in the air, and some (but not much) is applied to the wheel on the ground.
Bottom line- if you get a front wheel and a back wheel simultaneously stuck on a low traction surface, you're not going anywhere without someone else's help.
The only way to lock the rear (or front) differential is to replace it with an aftermarket unit manufactured by ARB, available through Automotive Customizers (4x4parts.com).
When using "AUTO" mode on the unit (only available with the automatic transmission), you will get poorer mileage - mine drops about 13% from 15 l/100 km to 17 or so. That's from about 30 MPG to about 25 MPG Imperial (I think). Sorry, I'm confused enough by Imperial - don't know US MPG - I LOVE metric l/100 km (litres per hundred kilometre).
Now for my next question. Do either of you (or anyone else) know if Nissan plans to incorporate a system that does control wheel slip a bit better than a LSD? I consider this shortcoming to be a fairly signficant one, considering that most of the Pathy's has some sort of a traction control. Thanks for the info.
foghorn48: Some of the traction control systems uses indevedual wheel braking which is very complicated and by the time you reach the top of the hill the brakes are so hot you should let them cool before going down the other side.
Just so I'm straight, the Pathy's awd system is the only place the clutches and oil pumps come into play, right? And they only transfer torque from rear to front? The rest of the 4wd system is a traditional 4hi/lo with the center diff locking in lo, correct? Thanks for getting me right.
Ok, if the front and read diffs are open...shouldn't that mean that, when going in a circle, there should be no binding left/right (front OR rear)? And front/rear, they should be the same speed (left front same as left rear, etc.) So why can't I drive on dry roads in 4WD HI/LO?