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Comments
Basically, each wheel rotates at a different speed. That also means that the front driveshaft and rear driveshaft rotate at different speeds, usually during turns. (That's why you need a center diff.) Typically a high-traction surface does not allow the wheels to slip easily and puts a lot of stress on the drivetrain.
Foghorn- the Pathfinder's 4WD mechanism has 4 modes:
2WD- center diff disengaged. All torque sent to rear driveshaft
AWD- center diff engaged. Torque is sent to the front driveshaft as rear slippage is detected
4HI- center diff locked. Front and rear rotate toegether.
4LO- same as 4HI but with a 2.5:1 gear reduction
(AWD is for use in snow, and for better handling, much like AWD passenger cars, while 4HI is a more heavy-duty mode.)
I had the compressor installed with the air bags and found the system lost pressure. The installer said it was the compressor that was leaking, so I called Air Lift and they're sending out a 1-way valve that I'll install in the air line outside the compressor. We'll see how that works.
As for accessories for the rack, they are WAY limited, but do exist. Both Thule and Yakima make different options. It pays to shop around.
-a.
http://www.xterra4x4.com/mods/Owners/Thors/seethrough.html
Here's another link :
http://ultra.litpixel.com:85/pictures/Truck_Tour/roof_gadgets.html
it sounds like the hubs are grinding after the car has been put into reverse then into drive. The grinding continues until a series of ugly grinds and then somehow it sounds as if they lock into the correct position, then the grinding sounds stops and I can resume normal driving..
I have found upon hearing the noise, if I put the car into 4wd the grinding will halt, but then I have to pull over and backup and do the release ritual of getting the car out of 4wd.
Has anyone experienced this problem and what are the preventive measures to keep this from happening? because I rarely use the 4wd, maybe 3 times a year and I follow all the procedures pertaining to the use of the 4wd. Plus it is an expensive as hell repair and this is the second time this has happened.
thanks all!
I assume the problem only occurs when you back up a few feet after switching from 4HI to 2WD (to unlock the hubs.)
Wait a sec, are you sure it's your hubs and not the t-case?
jack <><
http://www.courtesyparts.com/R50_tuneup.html
Thanks
Thanks!
Do a google search for "Pathfinder Sahara Bar" for more info.
The engine is designed to run at its best with premium fuel. While you can run 87, performance and mileage will suffer. With the poorer mileage your not saving any money.
My first few tankfulls netted about 13 mpg...then it quickly jumped to about 17 avg and has stayed there as the engine loosened up.
i have a 02 pathy LE, i changed the oil to mobil1 synthetic this past weekend. according to the owner's manual, the capacity of the oil pan is 5 and 1/4 Qts. anyway, after the oil change and i followed the intructions from the manual, started the engine and shut it off and waited for more than 10 minutes. at the time, the oil stick shows a little lower than the max so i filled it up with a total of about 5 and 1/4 qts. the thing is that this morning i checked the level again (when cold), there seems to be a overfill (according to the oil stick). i am a little worried to say the least...any suggestions would be more than appreciated??? most importantly, should i get some oil out??? or it should be allright since i only filled out a little over 5 qts...thanks a lot in advance for ur help!!!
The oil pan is for collecting oil when the engine is cold. When your engine is running, that oil is then used by the engine.
If you do have 10+ quarts of oil, drain that sucker fast before you do serious damage to your vehicle.
Thanks to everyone here who gave me advice. If anyone else is contemplating installing the kit themselves, here are a few more tips:
1) Despite what the instructions from Airlift say, you can do the job without removing the springs. Once you disconnect the shocks and panhard rod, you can lower the axle enough so that the springs will be stretched sufficently so that you can drill the required holes in the spring base plates, as well as squeeze the airbags into the interior of the springs. I used a 3/4 inch hole saw along with a hex extension. Depending on the dimensions of your drill, you will need a hex extension in the 6 to 12 inches range to be able to reach the base plate with the hole saw. Granted the hole you drill won't be a perfect circle as you can't drill from straight above with the coil spring in place, but it's close enough.
2) If you choose to remove the springs, you will need a coil spring compressor. Most standard units have a 8 inch bolt, which is too long for this application. Most manufacturers provide an optional 5 inch bolt for foreign cars...you will need this.
3) According to the service manual from Nissan, the panhard rod and shock absorber nuts cannot be re-used. My dealer had them in stock and told me that they are "soft" by design. The torque spec for the panhard rod is 80 to 94 foot pounds, and for the shocks 49 to 64 foot pounds. BTW, the torque spec for the wheel lug nuts in 87 to 104 foot pounds.
It's odd that you had to remove the panhard rod. You shouldn't have to remove the panhard rod at all. (At least I didn't...) With the shocks removed, and the antiswaybar brackets unbolted, you can lower the axle far enough so that the springs practically fall out. To me, this seemed far easier than unbolting the panhard rod.
With the springs removed, it's really easy to unbolt the bumpstop and drill out the bottom spring perch. There should already be a hole there, and with a 3/4" drill bit it's actually quite simple.
Maybe the springs are different on the '01 though...
Haven't posted in a while and may have missed comments on these 2 topics so apologies for that.
Has anyone installed wood trim kits and/or body side mouldings to their Pathy? I drive a 2001 SE AWD and am contemplating. If so, how difficult was the job(s)?
TIA!
I am sure you've see many of them on the road and, like me, just thought they were standard for that type of car. Many RX300's have changed out to these that I have seen.
Needless to say just a tad pissed off.
A couple of questions for you .
Are the bodyside moldings you just put on factory aftermarket or from some other source? Are they available in body colour ( mine is silver) or black only? Finally at what height on the door are they applied ? ( I'm wondering how effective they would be versus just cosmetic?)
Anybody have any experience with the new paint less dent removal companies ?
Thanks for your comments
2WD appears to be much cheaper, though, so I'm inclined to go with trim that instead.
Thoughts?
No, no, no, no, no, no, no. You might as well go out and buy a Paul Reed Smith guitar and save a few bucks by leaving the strings off.
I drove Hondas for 22 years exclusively, live in upstate NY where we have some pretty serious winters as well - this last one aside. If you're gonna get one of these things, get one you'll love, which means 4WD. SEs are a bit less expensive than LEs, no less wonderful. Other than an occasional pang at the gas pump, you'll never regret it.
Thanks for taking the time to answer.
Can you explain the difference between 2*4 and 4*4?
Thanks
jack <><
You'll need to cut out that piece between the upper and lower sections to install the filters. I remember doing that when I installed on my LE over a year ago.
Does the gauge mounted next to the hood release ever get in the way of your legs? I thought about that location, but there wouldn't have been enough clearance for my knee/shin.
If possible, could you post or e-mail photos of your setup? Thanks.