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Comments
00 Expedition (two years)
02 SE PF (just purchased)
I commented the other day (in my first post) about spending a lot of time testing the "other" SUV's and settling on a PF. I focused on 4Runner, Explorer, SC Xterra, while driving and looking at a few others.
I'm mostly driving around town, but I am one of those few who likes to 4 wheel on occasion. 4Runner wins the 4 wheeling battle with PF and Explorer. Xterra competes with 4Runner 4 wheeling, but lacks considerably on the highway and around town. PF can do most of what I like to do off road and the ride “on road” (PF) beats 4Runner by a long shot.
I live on a 12% grade hill on the Bench area of the Wasatch Front in Utah. Going up and down this hill several times a day to run errands and go to and from work, I can attest to a vehicle's hill climbing ability. I really liked the 4Runner for its off roading, but after several test drives up the hill, it was obvious this truck could not maintain 30 mph going up. (Too heavy for the 183 hp 3.4 L engine). Explorer (4.6 L Engine) had no trouble climbing the hill. PF, on the other hand, was still accelerating at 40 mph in 3rd gear when I had to let off the accelerator. (Speed limit on this stretch of road is 30 mph).
Since I only 4 wheel about 3% of my driving time, weighing the better (off road) 4 Runner (and its lack of power) and the PF with more than enough power (and a decent off road performer)...in the end there was no comparison (for my personal needs)...PF was the winner.
Since I have to go up and down this hill every day, the PF's power made it the best choice. Explorer is more expensive, and the ride on the road is not better than the PF, even with the new suspension (my subjective opinion). Then add the great PF stereo system and the reliability of PF and it beats Explorer for the "long hall". Yes, you get extra seating in the Explorer and there are more choices in Explorer, but when it came down to the decision of which to own, I chose PF. Currently I’m coming out of a two year Expedition lease, so there was an additional $1,500 lease incentive to purchase Explorer. But, reliability issues weigh heavy for me. Explorer has been middle of the road before the upgraded and improved 2002 versions. My Expedition has been great on reliability until just before the lease was to expire, and then things started to go down hill (another story). The bottom line is, I think Explorer will last three to five years without major expenses, but I believe PF will last five to eight years before I will have to put major money into repairs. (Again, my subjective opinion). Since I expect to own this PF for at least five years, reliability became a very important issue for me.
For those looking into PF, I hope you find your answers in this discussion group. In the end, if you want a great ride and superior reliability, and a vehicle that can 4 wheel as good as or better than most SUV’s, PF is the “one”. And, it is a great looking truck.
Enjoy the ride.
The practice of "lubing" the front driveline by using 4HI every now and then applies primarily to trucks with automatic or manual hubs, since on those trucks the front driveline doesn't move unless the t-case is in 4HI. Since the Pathfinder uses full-time hubs, the front differential rotates (and gets lubed) whenever the vehicle is in motion. Moving the t-case lever into 4HI just slides a collar in the t-case which transfers engine power to the front output shaft of the t-case (which is already turning anyway).
So, "keeping the 4x4 system lubed" is not really an issue with the 96+ Pathfinder unless you install manual hubs. Auto-mode trucks don't even have to worry at all.
I have 30,000 km on my 2001 XE with auto shift-on-the fly hubs. I have not noticed a loss in highway fuel economy with the auto hubs, but note that the 2001 is much thristier in city driving than the 95.
I would like to hear from anyone who wants to share fuel consumption experiences with the install of manual hubs.
To Phil47: Are you the same individual who installed the exhaust finisher from a QX4, as well the custom wheels? If so, I would like to again see your exhaust finisher photos.
Thanks
Woody in BC
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/phil99_5
The wheel/tire package and the exhaust finisher have held up beautifully. I'm very satisified with these purchases.
At 70+ the truck feels great! I have to check the spedo to make sure I'm not going too fast.
Does anyone know anything about it, or what I can do?
From my recollection of your previous post, you recommend stainless steel fasteners.
Woody
Go to message #5093 and you'll find all the info you need. This was a very tricky combo to put together...not much out there for the late model PFs. I had to spend a few more $$ than anticipated.
Woodyr1: Yes, I picked up a couple stainless steel hex head bolts from the local hardware store. They stand up to the weather MUCH better. Highly recommended.
Many thanks to you. With your advice I have my Wheel/Tire just like yours in the picture.
The dealer was impressed with your knowledge about the above subject. It took about six week of wait, but it was worth it.
The rides are very smooth and sharp. And for some reason the 5 speed shifting have improve too.
My trip from NY to Ottawa, Canada and back was great. Less road noise. I was able to cover more road in less less time too.
Again my thanks to you for all the help you gave me.
full5.
pat "Lost in the Town Hall? Ask the Sedans Host for directions!" Nov 13, 2001 4:49pm
Steve
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Bob
Problem with going to manual hubs--finding wheels with open centers to allow hubs to protrude. Guess I could use the OEM wheels without the centers, but that would be butt-ugly. Guess I'll stick with the OEM "full time" hubs for now on my '02. Can't see dropping that kind of cash right now for new hubs and wheels to gain 1 mpg or less. And thanks to Dean Thayer, who pointed out that the new OEM hubs don't have to be run occasionally in 4WD to keep them "lubed" because they're constantly "engaged."
Has anyone found anybody who produces "replica" OEM Pathfinder wheels?
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Well, as the subject says, my Burnt Cherry 2001 LE just got key scratched from front to back on the driver's side and across the tailgate.
How'd it happen?
I visited a buddy in San Francisco this past weekend and was told by his girlfriend to park in front of their garage door...she told me the wrong one. The guy I was blocking was p!$$@d off! I moved and tried apologizing, but he wouldn't hear it. I came out the next morning and my Pathfinder was keyed down to the bare metal. No real way to tell if it was him or not, but go figure.
What now?
This is a car that I keep garaged and Zaino'd on a regular basis. Am I looking at a full re-paint? Does insurance cover this sort of thing? Are there places that can do scratch repair on something this bad? It starts from the driver's door, runs all the way back to the fuel filler and loops back to the front. Not a pretty sight at all.
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Captain Ron. . .
I had a similar thing happen (not to my Pathfinder) -- a rolling garbage can with a protruding bolt was squeezed between two parked vehicles and scratched it stem to stern.
A "touch up" will surely show, especially if it's down to bare metal and can't be rubbed out. You're probably looking at a re-paint of the whole side. This will easily cost a grand if done properly. I would think that insurance would cover acts of vandalism such as this and it SHOULDN'T affect your premium. Body shops all go by a standardized program for estimating hours needed for a repair, so there shouldn't be much variation in the estimates. Just make sure you pick the best shop(s) around to give you an estimate, including the Nissan dealership.
I'm sure you're sick to your stomach over this. The good news is that a good body shop can work wonders and you shouldn't be able to tell it had ever happened once it has been fixed. Expect the repair work to take about 3 days, and don't try to rush them!
No real way to tell if it was him or not, but go figure.
You might get the police to grill him on it considering the circumstances. You never know - the moron might slip up and reveal his guilt.
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
While I'm on hold with my insurance agency (ug), I thought I'd pass along what I found on the key scratch problem... The body shops are telling me anywhere from $1500 to $1600 to repaint the driver's side front and rear doors, the rear quarter panel and the tailgate.
Oh, just got off with the insurance agent (don't go there)...it's covered under my comp ($500 deductable) as vandalism and will show up as a non-chargable claim...so, my rates shouldn't go up.
Thanks for all the help and sympathy...
Captain Ron. . .
PS: It's probably good I wasn't around to see who did this...I'm normally a peaceful man, but all bets would have been off.
Anyway,
I would echo the statement by a previous poster. Give the police a call, this might not be the first time something like this has happened in the neighborhood. It may not help you, but it might be better for someone else down the road.
Are you interested in showing up for that event? More info here.
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
To anyone who has never been to the Moab area or Easter Jeep Safari (EJS), it is amazing country, and I would whole-heartedly recommend it!
thanks for any help you can give me.
mike
The springs are designed to make the ride comfortable for empty/light loads. Otherwise your car-like Pathfinder smoothness would turn into pickup-truck harshness.
Carrying 4 adults plus stuff isn't particularly a light "everyday" load. It's occasional. More likely an "everyday" load is driver + kids (which is far lighter). 4 adults plus stuff weigh in at at least 500 pounds, probably closer to 700. The guy with the 2000 will likely have the same issue, but he probably hasn't carried the same load as you over the same roads...
Anyway, the solution is air springs. More info here.
I posted this a week or two back and got no reply so I thought a second try might help.
I need a replacement for one of my rear seatbelts...our dog chewed almost completely through it. I know I could get it from my Nissan dealer, but I was looking for an alternative and I plan to do it myself. Anyone know of a source? I have tried every parts/accessories web site I know of with no luck.
thanks,
Tom
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Has anyone ever replaced a seatbelt themselves?
I guess if I don't hear anything otherwise, it's off to Nissan for me.
A couple of questions for you, though:
What altitude do you live at?
(lower octane is OK to use at higher altitudes. Most high-altitude fuel stations sell 85 octane in addition to 87 and 91.)
What have the outside temperatures been like for you lately?
(high outside temperatures can contribute to pinging with lower octane fuel and/or heavy engine loads)
How are you calculating your mpg?
Based on the figures you provided, here's the breakdown.
650 miles / 11mpg = 59.6 gallons.
59.6 gallons / 3 'tanks' = 19.69 gallons per 'tank'
The fuel tank of the Pathfinder holds 21.1 gallons, but the "low fuel light" glows after about 17.5 gallons are used. Unless you've been driving pretty far after the lamp glows steady for each 'tank' of gas, you may be calculating your fuel economy incorrectly...
The recommended procedure: fill up to pump shutoff. Do not overfill. Zero trip meter. Next fillup, record trip miles. Fill up to pump shutoff and record gallons pumped. Divide trip miles by gallons pumped to calculate MPG for the previous tank of gas.
Note: Unless you consistently fill up to pump shutoff, you cannot accurately calculate MPG for every tank of gas. Also, the fuel gauge will read "F" for approximately 30 miles before it starts to move. This is due, in part, to the design of the Pathfinder's fuel tank.
Happy Pathfinding!!!
Steve