Nissan Pathfinder

peaches5 · January 2001

I bought mine from http://www.irontoad.com about a year ago. It is the thick black one like on the SE. It requires that you take out the existing window hinges and replace them with what comes in the kit. After I made a mess out of installing my simple bug deflector, I had Nissan install the back window one. Looks and works great. I honestly can't remember what I paid for it or for installation, but I know it was way less than $400.

lofquist · January 2001

First of all, in my opinion, the Canadian rack is lots nicer than the US version. Sleeker looking (no big knobs), wider (more stable) cross bars, and a lock-down unit with tamper-proof hex bolts.

Becuase the cross bars are a little wider you need to use wider clamp-ons:
For Thule, use C35 instead of C27.
For Yakima, use 17V instead of 10V. Also use 18H instead of ??H (I forget the number).

I have tried all three and they all fit just fine.

-Jon

calsig · January 2001

The deflector I installed was the Nissan accessory deflector for the PF XE or LE and the QX4 (standard equipment). This deflector is made out of acrylic, the same material that the sunroof deflector is made of. The color is called "smoke", a near black. This is definitely not the one that is found on the SE. From what I remember, the SE deflector is a foam filled solid wing, that requires drilling into the liftgate sheetmetal and will cost you around $400. I too preferred the SE deflector, but didn't want to drill into the metal. The LE deflector requires replacing your current hinges with the included replacement hinges. A 20-30 minute installation. As for durability of the deflector, I figure that I can get 7 of the accessory deflectors for the price of one SE deflector, so I'll take my chances.

Future Nissan doesn't have all parts shown at their site like Irontoad does, but they do have all parts or can order them for you. Their 800 number is 800-288-5030, ask for Kevin in their Nissan Parts department. I do not have any affiliation with Future Nissan (I didn't even purchase my PF there), but they have proven to me to provide the best service and charge the least. It also doesn't hurt that they're on the way to Tahoe.

On a side note, does anyone know if the headlight guards are illegal in California? or if the Nissan accessory ones are being redesigned and currently unavailable?

rush47 · January 2001

Can anyone help me with this?

I have a 2000 PF 4WD LE. I drive in 2WD in all but the worst conditions. I've gotten stuck a few times on ice (like going onto an icy driveway with big snowplow buildup at the bottom) and I shift into 4WD HI. Sometimes I get a clicking noise and it does not engage. I immediately shift back to 2WD because I'm afraid I'm doing damage. On reflection I think I was not completely at idle when this has happened (though I don't have to be). Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance,
Tom

rush47 · January 2001

I should add that it's probable that in every case where this has happened one or both of my rear wheels were spinning on ice when I tried to engage 4WD HI.

nismofreak · January 2001

Tom,
I have experienced this only once. What happened in my instance was that rear wheels were still spinning and the fronts weren't. Make sure that >if< one set of wheels are in motion (the rear) and the others aren't (the front), then make sure you are on the brake and then switch to 4 HI when all 4 wheels have stopped. The reason why shifting on the fly works is because all four wheels are going the same speed (assuming that you are straight)

hope this helps...

own3nissans · January 2001

Hey Jon,

Thanks for the info. What rack did you end up putting on your PF?

Jerry

smithmd · January 2001

I've experienced it a couple of times in my '99.5...once in mud and once in snow. Both times my back tires (or tire) were spinning faster than my front tires. In the mud, I was starting to bog down. When I pulled 'er into 4wd, it clicked until I took my foot off of the gas. Everything was able to engage and I was able to get right back on the gas before I sank in. As nismofreak said, all of your tires need to be turning at the same speed when you go into 4wd.

li_sailor · January 2001

Your descriptions sound like a good argument for the advantage of the LE's AWD...would you agree, smithmd/nismofreak ?

tonychrys · January 2001

I'll second that. I had a bear of a time trying to get our 97 PF into 4HI this winter. And I was standing still!

rush47 · January 2001

That makes a lot of sense... No spinning wheels when engaging. Thanks everyone. It would be nice to have the AWD. It wasn't available when I got mine.

Tom

stevinwshingtn · January 2001

Pathenvy;
Jon has it right. For the yakima rack the catalog says 10V but they are too small for the 01 canadian roof rack. I looked at some of the racks at my local US dealer and although the hold down hardware is different (sleeker on the canadian model), the ones I saw had the bigger cross bars like mine. Anyway, 17V vertical mighty mounts were the best fit. With those I can easily get them on but I can still slide the ski rack back and forth if I push on it a little. I don't think this is neccesarily good but it doesn't move around by itself.
I would like to add that the noise generated by the Yakima rack is a little annoying. It's probably the same on all ski racks. I haven't figured out a way to make it go away. It starts about 60mph and gets worse the faster you go.
Steve

mmccabe2 · January 2001

Can anyone confirm that there is a full redesign for PF coming in 2002? Motor Trend's site lays out the plan in their Future Vehicle Forecast section. Anyone know the timeframe for release? Could really affect deal I am working on for a 2001? Thanks.

drew_ · January 2001

There is probably an electronic override place somewhere to prevent the transfer case from engaging the front prop shaft if there is a great speed differential between the front and rear wheels. Make sense since there would be a great amount of stress if that was allowed to happen. After all, the front wheels/prop shaft needs to spool up to match the rear ones. Remember for PT4WD, the front and rear axles are mechanically locked together.

Drew
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lofquist · January 2001

>> Thanks for the info. What rack did you end up putting on your PF?
>> Jerry

Actually I have a couple setups. For skis I just use the Thule clamp-ons with the ski rack.

For bikes I use the complete Thule rack parts (418 towers, TK1 clamps) with the Thule square cross bars. The bike racks attach to the bars. Very sturdy and of course you can add a number of other items besides bikes. The towers attach nicely to the recess rail on each side of the roof.

I'm only a Thule fan because I have the ski and bike racks from my last vehicle. Yakima had no fit kit available for it.

I bought the Yakima clamp-ons at a going-out-of-business sale last month. Would like to use them to make a lumber hauling setup. Not sure how I'll do it yet...

-Jon

smithmd · January 2001

I'd say it would be a decent arguement. I've got nothing against AWD or Auto 4wd. I think it is kinda like the arguement for 5-speed or auto tranny. I like the control I have over the 4wd system with a stick I pull to somewhat mechanically engage the 4wd system (I think it is vacuum assisted in some way...but I REALLY don't know). I think the PT 4wd system may be more durable in the long run...but that's just a hunch that's not based on anything. I do know that when I was riding with my father in his 4wd Expedition (with auto 4wd) that 4wd was NOT a smooth engagement at slow speeds with the auto setting. I don't want that jerking motion when 4wd engages when I'm on ice. Also, I tend to drive differently when I'm in 4wd than I do when I'm in 2wd because the physics of driving are different. If I pull that sucker into 4wd, I know it's in 4wd. When I disengage 4wd, I know I'm in 2wd (once the light goes out). By knowing exactly which wheels are pulling I can better know how to drive. Of course, the 4wd system on the Pathy is pretty stinkin' sophisticated, so I may be worrying about something that isn't an issue. Sorry for the rambling.

drew_ · January 2001

Yes, Ford's Control-Trac 4WD system is really unrefined in auto mode. I experienced the same jerking feeling that you described while sitting in a friend's Explorer while climbing up a snow covered slope. I immediately told him to switch over to 4WD Hi lock. Earlier (Explorer) models were even worse, with a low frequency driveline vibration caused by the front axle being partially engaged in auto mode.

Nissan's auto 4WD is the same concept as Ford's. However, the excecution is a heck of a lot different. The Nissan's is pretty much seemless, probably due to the fact that it uses hydraulic pressure instead of Ford's mechanical setup. There is no jerking feeling whatsoever when the front wheels are being powered.

You can use the auto 4WD mode exactly like the PT4WD mode if you like. Just leave it in 2WD mode all of the time, and then switch to 4WD Lock when you want. Of course, that would defeat the added security of the auto mode.

The Pf's PT4WD setup is not all mechanical as you said. The electronics are the ones that engage the gearing hence the reason it can deny the engagement if the conditions are not correct.

Drew
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bgritz · January 2001

Steve,
I have the full Yakima setup. The noise was killing me too. I had what I would call a ROAR at 50 mph+. I would deffinatly suggest getting the new fairing from Yakima. It got rid of all the noise by directing the wind up and over the bars. I also rotate the ski racks down when not in use (which is why I chose the Yak). this makes a difference as well. I bought the next size larger fairing (44") than was listed by Yakima because it deflects the wind up over the towers as well as the bars. Here it is at REI.com
http://www.rei.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=6077741&prmenbr=8000

4wd Hi
I use this mode at least once a week during the winter and have never had any problems at all. (SE-5spd)

stevinwshingtn · January 2001

bgritz,
How do you mount the Yakima fairing to the factory cross bars?
It looks like you have to have the roundbar Yakima rack to mount it.
Also, with the Yakima rack mounted to the factory cross bars, I can't rotate the ski racks down.
That only works with the round bars
steve

smithmd · January 2001

I'm glad to hear that the Pathy's auto 4wd engagement is smoother than the Ford...I'm not at all surprised. Given the smooth engagement of auto 4wd and the ability to lock in 2wd or 4wd AND 4Lo thrown in to boot, I'd have to say that the Nissan Auto 4wd would be the way to go.

A little off of the subject, do you know how the 4wd is physically engaged on a PT 4wd? On the Auto 4wd, it is obviously electronic. But on the PT system, there is definitely some physical link between the transfer case and the 4wd stick since some road noise is transmitted through the stick.

pathyenvy · January 2001

Thanks for the input on the roof rack. I need to get this stuff ready now that the snow in Tahoe is starting to fall again! I think I'm going with the Thule. (goes with the Sierra Silver nicely)

bgritz · January 2001

Steve-
Sorry about that. I didn't realize you were using the factory crossbar. I have the round bars/whole Yak system. You might be able to jerry-rig the fairing to the mighty-mounts somehow, but I'm not certain. As for rotating the ski racks down, I wouldn't have a clue. sorry.

pathenvy:
if you are worried about noise, I would highly suggest the Yak. The whole reason I bought the Yakima was because I could (VERY easily) rotate the top pieces down out of the wind.
with the fairing on, it is quieter than the factory rack with nothing attached to it.

Brian

loboy · January 2001

Glad to see this forum is more active again. I thought everyone lost interest...

Drew - For some odd reason, the white PF costs more than any other color, $230 (Canadian invoice) to be exact. On the invoice sheet, it says Pearlglow coat paint or something to that extent. Maybe has to be with all the pearls Nissan is using..ha ha :-). I originally wanted a Bronzed Gray, but it looked a little too dark. My other choice would have been the Sahara Beige until I saw a white PF drove pass me one day and then I knew I wanted one. I only wish the door handles were of the same body color. I may consider repainting it to match come summer though.

ssbf - I think the cost for the rear deflector was $56.00 + ship. I had a large order from them so I'm not sure what the actual shipping cost is (total shipping was about $13 for my $260+ order). The blade has pre-drilled holes so I don't see any drilling required. As I posted earlier, I'm still waiting for the stanchions to arrive before I can install. I don't know what the holdup is, but this will be my 3rd shipment from nissanpartsusa. They don't tell you if your order is on backorder and they are slow to respond. Takes them 2-3 days to respond to any of my e-mails.

bgritz · January 2001

I just posted some pictures of how the Yakima looks on out '01 Sierra Silver SE. Both up, and rotated down, out of sight & wind.

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1445903&a=10853042

drew_ · January 2001

WRT the (auto) all-mode 4WD system, it uses a multi-plate hydraulic clutch to engage drive to the front wheels. This is now reasonably common in medium duty four wheel drives, but Nissan varies the way that it is controlled: In automatic mode the clutch is engaged when sensors detect wheel spin. As you know, the driver can also select 2WD, or 4WD-Hi (or lock) with the rotary switch on the dash-board. Hydraulic pressure for the multi-plate clutch comes from two pumps, one driven from the main-shaft, the other by an electric motor for low-speed or reverse travel. When 4WD-Lo is selected, it bypasses the multi-plate clutch and gives direct access to the low range gearing.

Good question about the PT4WD. But unfortunately, I am not very sure. I don't think the Pathfinder uses vacuum assist. The Ford/Mazda pickups in MY1998 were the first ones to do that; I can't remember what they're system is called though. I think there is some kind of servo motor inside that actually does the work for the PF's system. This is why shift on the fly is possible. The old non-shift on the fly systems needed the vehicle to be stopped before 4WD could be engaged. Perhaps someone else could elaborate? FWIW, engaging low range on my ML (which only requires a button to be pressed) also results in couple of muted clunks.

BTW, be careful when shifting on the fly on slippery pavement as the sudden gain in traction and the sudden torsional force to the front axle could cause a slide or spin. This is probably part of the reason why the system doesn't allow the front wheels to be engaged if there is a great speed differential between front and rear wheels.

Drew
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loboy · January 2001

I was wrong about the price for the rear deflector. Price I paid was $62.40+ship. $56 was for the hood deflector which I had to cancel due to extreme long lead time (3 months just to get a hood deflector).

aspenwhite · January 2001

This morning I had the front windows tinted to match the rear ones on my 01'White LE. Looks great! Even the beige interior looks nicer.
I'm learning a lot about my LE here. I love this forum. AW

loboy · January 2001

Aspenwhite - I'm also looking at tinting the front windows. How much did you pay for yours? and was it legal? I know some state has rules about how dark you can go with the tinting. The tint on the back windows are fairly dark so I doubt I can dublicate it here in WA state. Can someone shed some light on this?

lspangler · January 2001

Has anybody here added a hitch to thier PF? If so, what type of hitch and how much was it? I'm getting quotes of just under $200 for a class III hitch.

Also, how well does the '01 manual transmission due towing? The lower rating has to be more of a protection to the tranny than the vehicles inability to tow it. I can't imagine that 25 ft-lbs worth of torque would equate to 1500 lbs in towing power.

What kind of mileage are you guys getting when towing something around 3,000 pounds?

Thanks

bgritz · January 2001

lspangler

I have the tubular Class III from Draw-Tite & I love it. The 5-spd tows just fine. This past summer we moved into a new house had to do the landscaping. I have an 8 ft utility trailer which was loaded from everything from fencing wood, to 2,500 lbs of fill dirt. While it wasn't quites as quick, the 3.5 engine paired with the 5-speed still had power to spare, even at our 6,000 ft elevation.

In terms of mpg, most of the towing was shorter trips in town, so I can't help you there.

johnskev · January 2001

the nissan model matrix available at:
http://www.freshalloy.com/cars/nissan/nissan_matrix.html
states the next redesign is model year 2003, which may technically be 2002. what i gather from small talk is that it will be larger (as the above link states) to compete with the likes of sequoia, leaving the midsize market to the xterra.

-kj

philipc1 · January 2001

JUST RETURNED FROM PA FOR THE HOLIDAYS. AM I HAPPY I LIVE IN SOUTH FLA. IT'S DAMN COLD UP THERE.
TOTAL MILES = 1,166 ONE WAY
$ SPENT ON GAS = $86.00 ,WITH 1/4 TANK LEFTOVER.
PEOPLE THINK I'M CRAZY FOR DRIVING 20 HRS. BUT WITH THIS VEHICLE, IT'S A BREEZE.
80 M.P.H.= 2750 RPM
90 M.P.H.= 3100 RPM (CRUISING)
SMOOTH AS SILK. MORE THAN ENOUGH POWER.DROVE STRAIGHT THRU THW WAY UP AND I'VE NEVER DONE THAT BEFORE. NOT TOO MANY SUV'S OUT THERE THAT COMPARE TO THIS NEW PATHFINDER !!

goose1207 · January 2001

Good article in the latest issue of Time magazine on Nissan's resurgence/Ghosn. Does anyone know what the new Nissan logo slated for unveiling this week is supposed to look like? The new Z car looks sharp.

aspenwhite · January 2001

loboy,

I paid $70 for both windows w/a lifetime warranty (peeling, bubbles, etc and they'll replace it no charge). My son has been driving his white 240sx w/much darker tinting for 5 yrs here in Colorado and never had a problem so I guess I'll be OK. I hope you can go for it. AW

mark28 · January 2001

In response to my prior question # 257 about the 4wd system of the PF I found this on an
Australian car website: www.autoweb.com.au

"Proving that motorsport does improve the breed, the All-Mode 4WD system used by Nissan in
the Series 2 Pathfinder is a derivative of the ATTESA E-TS 4WD technology first seen in the
high performance Skyline GT-R coupe road and race cars...

Pathfinder's All-Mode 4WD system was developed having regard for the wide range of driving
environments in which recreational 4WD vehicles are used.
When set in the Auto setting, the All-Mode 4WD system automatically distributes torque between
100 per cent through the rear wheels to 50:50 front/rear when traction is difficult. In the Auto
setting, front torque distribution varies with:

Difference between front and rear propeller shaft speeds;
Throttle opening angle;
Rate of vehicle acceleration;
Braking force;
ABS operation; and
Road speed.

Torque distribution is via a hydraulically operated multi-plate clutch and in the Auto setting, the
maximum split is 50:50 front/rear which is the same as the 4WD High manual setting.

Hydraulic pressure to the clutch is varied according to requirements - the more pressure applied to the clutch, the more torque which is transmitted to the front wheels.

Turning the 4WD dial on the dashboard to 4WD Low bypasses the clutch and locks the front and rear drive shafts,unlocks the sungear/input shaft and locks the planetary carrier which produces a reduction of 2.569:1 - this is actually lower than other Nissan 4WD models which have a reduction of 2.02:1."

I hope this satisfies some of you.

Mark ( soon to be 01 PF owner)

pathstar · January 2001

The Aspen White is more expensive because it is a three step paint process. It's topped with a tinted clear-coat. Hey, it's just $230 Canadian more - that's what, $3 US ;-) I cheaped out and got Sierra Beige.
I have the tubular class III hitch as well. Very well designed, just wish they'd painted it properly (mine is rusting already - since June). I'm going to pull it off, strip it, and paint it with "Endura" over the "Endura" zinc primer (two part polyurethane or epoxy paint) "titanium black" to match the running boards on my 2001 LE.

div2 · January 2001

As I understand it, the capability to shift on the fly is primarily a function of the design of the auto-lock front hubs. For example, the old Troopers had to be engaged at a full stop; however, once the hubs were locked, you could engage 4WD-HI on the fly. My 1993 SE has a maximum 4WD-HI engagement speed of 25 mph but again, once the hubs are locked engagement at higher speeds is no problem. For that reason, I will often go ahead and lock the hubs BEFORE I really need 4WD. Then, when I do need it, there are no engagement hassles. I personally prefer the part-time system if you are really planning serious off roading. Today the majority of SUVs are bought to give their owners confidence and security in bad weather and most AWD systems are perfect for these drivers. Nissan and Mitsubishi are about the only two companies that make electronic AWD systems that I would feel comfortable using off road. And I agree with you on Control-Trac; IMHO Ford hasn't built a decent off-road vehicle since the last bobtail Bronco rolled off the line in 1976.

drew_ · January 2001

I agree, many hardcore off-roaders still prefer manual locking hubs and part-time 4WD. The Toyota Land Cruiser's permanent 4WD system is pretty robust, and I would have no qualms about using it off-road either. A simple way to see how the systems put up in harsh conditions is to watch the Dakar rally (across the African continent). Lots of Mitsubishis, Nissans Terranos (that's what they call the Pathfinder in Japan), and Land Rovers. The MB M-class's system seems to be holding up well too. They won last year's event in the T1 stock vehicle class and are leading this year's rally (going on right now). In contrast, the one and only highly modified T3 prototype class BMW X5 is running way (hours) behind the slowest ML430, driven by a 65 year old Japanese lady :-)

Drew
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P.S. When you said "rolled", you didn't mean that literally, did you? ;-)

pathstar · January 2001

My 2001 LE was still in breakin (and towing a small -700 lb. utility trailer) but last summer I'm sure I got much poorer mileage in auto 4wheel than in 2 wheel drive (on paved non-slippery roads). Anyone else seen this yet? I can't tell now that it's winter, as mileage goes down the tubes and is unpredicatable (other than it's lousy) in winter.

macchi2 · January 2001

I have heard different things but when is a good time to wax your car when you first get it. I have had my pathy SE '01 for a month and would like to wax it but people have said that you have to wait for the paint to harden. any thoughts?

div2 · January 2001

I had a 1973 Bronco V8 I inherited from my dad. Typical numb Ford power steering with SIX turns lock to lock. And did I mention the grabby, darting drum brakes? Never rolled it, but I did spin off an icy road into a ditch; it hit so hard I knocked the left rear tire off the rim. Went up on two wheels but didn't roll. As for the X5, check out post #39 of the current X5 topic to read my opinions. Back to the Pathfinder, I really love my 1993 SE. Driven daily, it just turned over 120,000 miles and remains tight and rattle free. I plan to keep it till it falls apart. It even has an appropriate vanity plate: "GOJIRA" Care to guess the meaning?

phil47 · January 2001

similar to "godzirra!!" screamed with eyes open wide and backing away quickly??

drew_ · January 2001

Ah ha! That's where I remember your name from :-) Yikes, 6 turns lock to lock? And I thought 4 was terrible already :-) Pathfinders have always been know for their reliability, so it's no surprise to me that your truck is still in good conditions. This was the exact reason why two friends of mine bought Pathfinders (albeit MY1998 and MY1999). Heck, in 1996, my parents almost bought one (full-loaded Pathfinder SE) themselves being repeat Nissan owners before they switched over to MB years ago. The part-time 4WD system turned them off though, and they stuck with the AWD car.

No idea about the vanity plate..."Go Jiza"? What?! :-)

Drew
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div2 · January 2001

Gojira is the Japanese pronunciation of Godzilla. My PF is big Green(Black Emerald, according to Nissan) and it goes ANYWHERE it wants to

pyrenus · January 2001

Hey, check your state laws before tinting your front windows. Here in MO, it is illegal. I have seen officers pull over some of my friends, and then they won't let them leave until they PEEL the tint off of their front windows. That leaves a big mess on your windows.. Most officers probably won't do that, but it seems that they have the right to make you remove it, if they want to.

PYRENUS

pathstar · January 2001

I wouldn't worry about it. Most paints are hard enough by the time you get the vehicle to wax (they are actually spray waxed for shipping). Before you start, though, check out: http://www.zainobros.com/
While it is "show car wax", it is fantastic stuff. I've got it on mine, and summer bugs just wipe off (no scrubbing). Washing is much easier too. It lasts longer than "normal" wax as well. I also did the "claybar" treatment, giving the vehicle a "smooth as glass" feel. Only drawback is you will be watching your vehicle more as it is much more desireable (theft). I learned of the stuff from the rx7 list, as they were all going nuts over it.

parena · January 2001

I have an offer for a 36-month term for a PF LE 4WD with all options (everything) except the navigation system and entertainment system (color: sierra silver). The monthly payment is $561 per month, minimal monies down ($1,845) to drive away, with a 15,000 mile per year allowance. The residual is 57%, my money factor is 5.7% (or .0024, and my buy out (purchase) option amount is $20,606. My negotiated sales price for the vehicle is $31,091, plus sales tax, document and license fees. I think I negotiated a tight deal on the vehicle, but was expecting the monthly lease amount to be lower (I am buying the vehicle in Chicano, IL). Am I getting a good deal? Any help or comments from the group would be most appreciated! I need to make a decision as soon as possible. Thank you.

pathstar · January 2001

That's basically what I did (though my dollar figures are more "nose-bleed" as they are Canadian). If you put down a few thousand more, you'll see the monthly payment drop substantially. In Canadian, mine was: vehicle cost- $44,300
down payment - around $10,000 (trade-in)
monthly cost - $510
36 month lease - buyout - $27,000 ($18,000 US)
This was at 6.8% - offered last summer.
It's a 2001 LE equipped like yours. My money has been earning well over 15% in mutual funds so why should I use it? My bank manager said do the lease, as they couldn't touch the rate.
The dealer finance guy should be able to show you in a few minutes how each $1000 extra down affects the monthly payments. If he hesitates, find a "real" dealer. Mine was happy to help me.

sanandton · January 2001

in April 2000, I leased a 01 PF LE 4x4. 3yr/36k money factor .0305 (as I recall). Final vehicle price was 31300. I put no money down and my payment is only 466/mo. Does the 3-4% lower residual listed above (58% compared to my 62%) make that much difference?

tonychrys · January 2001

4% of 31K is about $1200 and change. Yea, every grand makes a difference.

I did something foolish when we leased our '97 PF, I paid the taxes upfront. Lowered my lease payment by at $50 a month. I say foolish because in hindsight if the car was totaled during the lease, I'd be out the tax money I paid upfront. GAP insurance would take care of the rest.

TC

Nissan Pathfinder

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