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Nissan Pathfinder

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Comments

  • kevinmackevinmac Member Posts: 5
    Recently I attempted to negotiate the purchase of a 2003 PF LE. In addition to the $2000.00 rebate and $500.00 manuf. to dealer cash, the salesperson said there was an additional $900.00 in possible incentives to the dealer that he would try to apply to my transaction. He would not go into great detail what it was. The $900.00 dollar number is not posted on the Edmund's/Nissan- rebate/incentive page. Does anyone know what it is and how long it is available?
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    It might be something called dealer holdback. It is the cash given to dealers for the period of time the car sits in the lot (around 2-3% of MSRP). Like a supplement for inventory costs. Th sooner they sell it, the more they keep. The longer it sits on the lot, the more the dealer uses this supplement to pay for inventory costs. It is the last thing the dealer will negotiate. The number is located on the actual Manufacturer invoice, request it(not the dealership print out they give you). Look for "Holdback" near the end of invoice(next to MSRP).Great time to buy a car. Buyers market! Push hard! Good luck!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    There may also be a manufacturer-to-dealer incentive that we consumers wouldn't ordinarily know about. Manufacturer to Dealer Programs

    Here's a holdback link.

    Steve, Host
  • phatnastycatphatnastycat Member Posts: 73
    I have a 2001 LE that I bought used back in July. I have had it in the dealship 8 times to attempt to fix a rattling driver side window. I am so frustrated I am considering selling it after 3 months. I have seen the service bulletin for the 99 model year to fix a window rattle in the same area where I hear the rattle (along the top of the window. I wonder if this TSB would include the 01? Has anyone had any luck in resolving a window rattle. The dealer has been very nice to attempt to fix it, but it has yet to be fixed. I am the end of rope on this and don't know what else to do.
    Thanks-
    PNC
  • sivi1sivi1 Member Posts: 82
    i thought pix of new pathfinder were great, not overdone.
  • kamabokokamaboko Member Posts: 2
    hi,
    new to the board here. i'd like to buy an older PF (92~96 4wd) and use it as a work truck (taking out the back seat). in any case, i know nothing about these cars other than they seem to be pretty reliable. most of the cars i've been looking at have between 100K~135K miles. buying a car with this many miles on it, what should i be aware of? what should i be looking for and what kinds of repairs may i be looking at in the immediate future?

    thanks for your comments,
    k
  • brisoupbrisoup Member Posts: 56
    I don't own a older Pathfinder but I can give you some suggestions.First I would go to carfax.com and see if I can get some kind of vehicle history report.Then I would see if the regular preventive maintnance has been done on the vehicle.(buying from a private party may be helpful for this.) Finally I would have the truck inspected by a trusted mechcanic to look for any potential problems.But in the end buying a older vehicle is just like a crap shoot....Either hit or miss...
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    I have the same pathy with 36K miles. However, I do not have the same issue. Look on www.alldata.com for a list of your TSB issues. I do not remember a TSB for a driver side window rattle. It did have other TSBs rattle issues such as for the rear hatch and shocks. I have the rear hatch rattle issue.

    Did the dealer look at the internal components of the window (ie, take off the door panel)? It may be just loose components (wires, hangings vibrating against each other, etc.) or a loose window seat. Window may need adjusting to seal and seat better. It may be a replacement for a broken OEM window but still has loose galss/debris inside door panel. It might be a wrong/poorly designed aftermarket replacment window that doesn't fit exactly. Hope that helps. Good luck.
  • pumerpumer Member Posts: 2
    I have a super cool '94 Pathfinder. It has the rims, grill guard, sport shock option, heated leather seats, CD/cassete..... It is dope!! The only problem is that in the morning when I put it into reverse, after letting it warm up for a good 30seconds, it stalls out. Also, if it at first it doesn't stall in reverse, it stalls when I get to the top of the incline out of my garage. Keep in mind it only happens in the morning after it has sat overnight. Also,I have 124K on it; I bought it with all maintenance records, last tune up was at 80K.. Any advice on this problem would be very appreciated.
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    Check your ignition wires, dist. cap and rotor. Change your fuel filter. Have your throttle body cleaned and fuel system cleaner added to gas tank. Check your air filter and air intake pipe for cracks. A lot of times stalling is caused by a bad PCV valve or PCV lines.

    Or you can probably manually re-adjust your idle speed if out of spec.
  • ndboomerndboomer Member Posts: 20
    I have two offers on leases that look attractive. Both are 39 month leases with 12k miles per year. Looking for anyone's two cents:

    Option 1: SE with popular package, sunroof package, hitch, microfilter, mats, etc. ($32K sticker) Offer: $0 down, $346/month.

    Option 2: Demo LE (4,500 miles, loaded, $35K sticker)Offer:$1,500 down, $359/month.
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    Check your ignition wires, dist. cap and rotor. Change your fuel filter. Have your throttle body cleaned and fuel system cleaner added to gas tank. Check your air filter and air intake pipe for cracks. A lot of times stalling is caused by a bad PCV valve or PCV lines.

    Or you can probably manually re-adjust your idle speed if out of spec.
  • pumerpumer Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the advice "Ibinh". I appreciate it. Your right, Every time I put the fuel cleaner in it, it runs mcuh better (less stalling prone). Now I know where to start, to attempt to solve this annoying little deal. Thanks again!! If there is any other hints out there, they are welcome.
    You rule.
  • meronycmeronyc Member Posts: 4
    I just negotiated a lease for the 2003 Nissan Pathfinder LE 4X4 Fully loading for $423 a month no money down. I think it a fair deal. Please tell me your Input.
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    I learn as much from comments as I hope to help them.

    I also read that oil gasket leaks could be caused by a cloged PCV valve or PCV lines. Pressure normally alleviatede by the valve is built up in the engine and causes gasket leaks. If you have a gasket leak and stalling problems, it might just be the PCV system. Cheap fix.
  • socal_pfsocal_pf Member Posts: 3
    anybody know of a good place to get replacement rotors in southern california installed? oh, and also which are the best non-stock rotors out there?
  • hattrick16hattrick16 Member Posts: 16
    Hi,

    I was wondering if anyone else has this problem. The front passenger seat belt constantly locks up for no reason. One minute all is well, then the next you are pinned to the seat. It is really annoying. The only way to temporarily fix it is by unlatching the belt and letting it retract and then re-belting. I have complained about this to the Nissan dealer at every service. They always say it is just fine.

    Besides from that and one other issue, we are very happy with our Canadian PF. I actually just got off the phone with Nissan USA because we are having warantee issues. There is a leak (most likely water) on the drivers side somewhere that is constantly saturating the carpet and goes right through the mat. When I brought the PF for service I had them look at it quickly...they don't do this kind of repair on Saturdays. They said the PF would have to stay overnight at some point to find where the leak is. Anyway they went to look up my warantee and said it wasn't on the system.

    Luckily, I followed John's every instruction and I transferred the warantee to the US when we got home. I even saved the case number. It sure came in handy. I heard that you can't transfer a warantee from Canada to US anymore...bummer. Anyway, Nissan was pretty nice about it on the phone. They said that the warantee is transferred and that they could not explain why the dealer had no record. They the person that helped me put me on hold while he called the local Nissan Dealership. Next thing I know I bring the car in next week to get the leak taken care of....I mentioned the seat belt too. Hopefully they will just replace it.

    My only complaint is that my 2001 doesn't have the LATCH system. Installing a car seat is really a pain. I feel like I need 3 hands.

    Thanks for listening to me ramble. Any advise anyone has is appreciated.
  • fredsamfredsam Member Posts: 1
    Might purchase 2001 le, 40,000 miles and they're asking $21,000. Price seems pretty fair. What kind of warranty remains on this? Also, what are some typical maitenance concerns are there at 40,000 miles?

     Thanks~Jon
  • smibradsmibrad Member Posts: 34
    $21,000 sounds too high. The bumper to bumper warrenty runs out at 36,000 miles. If you go to the appraisal section on Edmunds, you will see that a 2001 LE in excellent condition has a dealer retail price of $19,438 and a private price of $17,689.
  • scantyscanty Member Posts: 164
    Ask Terry over in "Real World Trade-In Values." Be sure to give him all of the info (style, trim, condition, extra equipment, color, etc.) and your location. He'll shoot you an accurate price.
  • trevor57trevor57 Member Posts: 18
    Just got off the phone with Carmax salesman in White Marsh. He told me they will soon be selling 2004 Pathfinder Platinum Edition....the last of the current body platform models. Has anyone else heard of this model? Told me that colors will be added and some dropped.....door handles will now be color coordinated like QX4.
  • oakley5oakley5 Member Posts: 8
    The dealer said squeaks and rattles are only covered during the first year or 12K miles. I have a 2001 GLE, leather seats with 34K miles. All of a sudden both front seats starting squeaking when occupied. It's getting very annoying. Any one else experiencing this? I would appreciate any suggestion...
  • pathalogicalpathalogical Member Posts: 34
    Hello,

    I saw the tv commercial for the Chinook, if it's replacing the Chilkoot (like the 03 I have) why does it show the vehicle with a sunroof ? It's the base model, not the higher up SE or LE. My 2003 brochure shows sunroof standard on SE & LE, not available on Chilkoot. Is this a new change for 04 model ?
  • goose1207goose1207 Member Posts: 113
    For MY04, what has been called the LE model will now be called the Platinum Edition. It has many of the extras that the outgoing QX4 had. This includes the electroluminscent guages, the aluminum like trim around the shifter, special interior dark wood trim, PE badging, platinum colored wheels and aluminum door sill plates w/ the PF logo. There are 3 new exterior colors, Canteen, Platinum (PE only) and Luminous Gold.

    Personally, if I was in the market for a PF, I would either wait for the redesigned '05 model w/ 3rd row seating or pickup a '01 LE thereby saving a minimum of $10k in depreciation costs. The only reason why I bought new in 12/00 was because I wanted the VQ35 engine (new for MY01) and needed a car right away as I was coming out of a leased 99.5 PF SE. The PFs have not changed significantly since '01 --bigger wheels on the LE, some minor interior styling changes and recent availability of the VDC and tire pressure monitor options. And oh yes, the deletion of the nav option that appeared in MY01 and the deletion of the SE 5-speed option starting in MY02 I believe (or maybe it was '03?).
  • goose1207goose1207 Member Posts: 113
    For those of you that are DIYers, how long does it take to R/R the front rotors and all 4 pads? Is this a straightforward procedure on the PF (MY01+)? Are the instructions available anywhere other than the Nissan technical svc manual that costs over $200? Thanks.
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    I bought my 2001 LE with 26K miles in Houston in Feb '03 for 19,250. Neg. from 19,500 asking price. Mint condition. Haggled but I sensed they were willing to deal. Got a new windshield and $250 dollars. I felt in hindsight that i could of gotten more off the price.

    Only warranty left on your potential is corrosion and powertrain warranty for 5yr/60K miles. 2001 Pathy have very little maintenance besides simple oil changes and all filters until 105K mile interval.
  • mikeeeemikeeee Member Posts: 7
    I also bought a 2001 LE this past summer. When I bought the truck this past August it had 25,000 miles on it and was in excellent condition other than a few small paint chips. Seller was asking $21k and I bargained down to $19,800. At the time, dealerships in the Milwaukee area were asking $24k+ for LE's with similar or higher mileage. I'd say $21k is pretty high and you should be able to get down quite a bit lower.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Replacing the pads only is a pretty simple process. Replacing the rotor is somewhat more difficult, as you need to remove the hub.

    If you decide to change/remove the rotors yourself, you won't necessarily need to repack the bearings or install a new grease seal, but as long as you've got the hub off, you might as well do that little extra work.

    You'll need a grease gun and a bearing repacking tool, which makes repacking the bearings a lot easier.

    You will probably want to get some new inner wheel bearing grease seals, too. The whole process isn't really that hard, it's just a little time consuming and quite messy. Have a decent supply of paper towels and/or shop rags close by.

    The process is relatively simple, but time-consuming:
    1) Remove wheel
    2) Remove brake pads
    3) Remove brake caliper
    4) Remove drive flange (Refer to these photos.)
    5) Remove locknut retaining washer (use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screws; the screw heads are very easy to strip, so be careful!)
    6) Remove bearing locknut
    7) Remove outer bearing
    8) Slide hub/rotor off the spindle
    9) On the back of the hub, unbolt the rotor (six 14mm bolts)
    10) Take rotor to an auto parts/auto repair center to be machined
    11) Remove inner bearing and grease seal: Place the hub face-up while supporting it around the edges on a vice or blocks of wood. Tap out the inner bearing and seal from the top, forcing the bearing and seal to pop out from the bottom. Use a wooden dowel or hammer handle to pop out the seal, tapping around the circumference a little at a time. Do not pry it out from the back. *Note the orientation of the seal before removing it.
    12) Repack the bearings.
    13) Wipe off old grease from the spindle and the hub, reattach rotor, reinstall inner bearing and grease seal
    14) Reinstall everything in the reverse order it was removed.

    Here's a photo write-up of the bearing repacking process on the Xterra, which is very similar to the Pathfinder, once you're down to the hub locknut. The main difference between my procedure and the one described in the link is how to remove the inner grease seal.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    You don't need to repack the bearings when replacing the rotor. Therefore you don't need to remove the inner bearings or grease seals either. You just need to be careful not to damage them.

    If you do opt to repack the bearings, be sure to buy new grease seals.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    I have an '01 PF with a limited slip differential. I recently changed the rear axle gear lube, and used Mobil 1 synthetic (Mobil recommends it for limited slip units). Now the limited slip function no longer works. It's not making any odd noises or anything, it just no longer works. I can tell because if I have to accelerate hard on a wet road, one of the rear tires will spin freely...it never did that before I changed the gear lube. One thing I did notice is that the owner's manual calls for 80W90 viscosity, and the Mobil 1 product is 75W90. Might this be the problem? Does anyone have any ideas on what I should be using? I prefer to use a synthetic product since I tow a 4000 lb boat and trailer frequently. Anyone know what product the dealers use for limited slip units? Thanks in advance for your help.
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    Below is what I copied from 01 Pathfinder owner's manual, page 10-3:

    Limited-slip differential (LSD) gear oil:
    Only LSD gear oil:
    API GL-5 and SAE 80W-90*2 approved for Nissan LSD*3
  • jiaminjiamin Member Posts: 556
    I didn't read carefully that you already know this info.
  • cooper19cooper19 Member Posts: 2
    One Toyo Tire disintegrated while driving my 2000 pathfinder & caused $3,000 damage to the vehicle.Company accepts no responsibility for their product.My tires had just been checked & rotated by the dealer when I got new brakes. Just replaced my Toyo Tires with Bridgestones & I will never buy Toyo or accept a new vehicle with Toyo Tires.There is no one at the Company to talk to.What a company!I can't do very much but I hope it is not the beginning of a Firestone fiasco. I contacted agencies & alerted them.I only hope no one gets injured from one of these tires. I was lucky, I was only going 35-40 mph on a quiet street. I shutter to think what might have happened if I were on a busy highway. NO, Toyo is out for me, forever.
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    Glad no one got hurt. What were the road conditions when this happened? Thanks for the heads up.

    Let us know your Bridgestone experience. Price, model, comfort, wear....etc.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    My '01 PF came with Bridgestone Duelers (HT 689). I replaced them last week at 62K miles (I generally don't drive aggressively) and could have kept them longer but was concerned about deep snow traction this winter. There are other tires that have a more aggressive tread pattern and therefore would be better offroad and in deep snow, but these seem to be a decent compromise...reasonably smooth and quiet highway ride, and I've been in 3 feet of snow and never got stuck. Despite many negative comments about these tires on this website, I replaced them with the same tires. Costco was $30 less expensive per tire than anywhere else I could find, including tirerack.com. Unfortunately Costco does not have the Hunter 9700 "road force" balancing machine needed to properly balance the tires on this truck to avoid the dreaded steering wheel shimmy so often mentioned on this thread. My local Ford dealer has the Hunter machine, and mounted and balanced all four for $59. Other places that have Hunter 9700's quoted $25 to $40 PER TIRE! (You can find local garages with this equipment at www.hunter9700.com. I spoke to the tech who did the work, and he said he had to re-mount each tire twice in the position indicated by the balance machine before the tire and wheel combination would properly balance. He could not explain to me why the tires on late model Pathfinders are so hard to balance, but he said the problem is well known. For the first time since I owed the truck (I bought it new) there is no steering wheel shimmy at all!
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    An update on my post #7042 above. I sent Mobil an email asking for their advice, and they say that the Pathfinder owner's manual specifies the addition of a friction modifier. I suggested to them that the instructions on their product could be a little clearer. The bottle says that their product is limited slip compatable (I interpreted this to mean that no friction modifier is needed). If my limited slip unit is ruined, I'm not going to be happy! I think I'm going to try Red Line's (www.redlineoil.com) synthetic product that comes with the friction modifier already mixed in. Anyone have any experience with that product? Thanks.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    What model Toyo? I have some new Ultras on my minivan.

    Steve, Host
  • lbinhlbinh Member Posts: 190
    I got a 2001 LE with 37K and my OEM Dueller HTs look pretty worn. May get another 10-15K miles if I push it to the wear bars. I found the OEM tires to have poor wet/dry traction and very noisy when worn. I did like them for comfort and smoothness.

    I guess I am lucky in the fact that I do not have vibrations at all in the duellers. I bought it used at 26K though. Don't know if previous owner corrected the problem or not. I am lookin to get New Bridgestone Dueller A/T Revo tires next year. Heard they were quiet, smooth, good traction, and have great treadwear. Maybe even the Yokohama Geolanders.

    Good job in solving your problem. Sounds like you got a great deal from Costco.
  • woodyr1woodyr1 Member Posts: 142
    I saw a 2004 Chinook and confirm that the sunroof and fender flares have been added as standard equipment. The dealer indicated it is more like an SE, than the base model.

    Hope this helps!
  • nataliesnatalies Member Posts: 1
    I am looking to buy a used Pathfinder and I have no idea what kind of things to watch out for. I currently have found a 1997 LE and a 2000 SE that I am seriously considering. Does anyone have any suggestions, things to watch out for or tips of how to make sure I am getting what I am paying for?? Thanks!
  • Jack44Jack44 Member Posts: 221
    If you can swing it...Get a 2001..It has the larger engine, and for that alone is worth the extra $...BIG difference...
  • joe233joe233 Member Posts: 43
    Is there an aftermarkd analog clock available to replace the digital clock? I like the QX4's analog clock, but since it has Infinity stamped all over, that wouldn't make a good swap.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    If the mileage is over 105,000 miles, confirm that the timing belt has been replaced.

    The 97 LE rear suspension lower control arm bushings have a tendency to wear out, which can cause the vehicle to sway disturbingly side-to-side at freeway speeds. If the bushings or control arms have not been recently replaced, it's a good idea to do it. Each lower arm costs about $90 and labor to replace both lower arms will probably be around 1.5 hours.

    Also look for leaking struts (front suspension) or shocks (rear suspension). Do the "bounce test" at all four corners to see if new shocks/struts are needed.

    The 3.3L engines on both model years have a tendency to develop exhaust manifold leaks. If you hear a tapping noise when starting a cold engine (which goes away after it warms up) there may be an exhaust leak. The warranty for exhaust manifold issues was extended to 100,000 miles.
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    Just had a set of Yokohama Geolanders installed on my 01 LE. I haven't driven it very far on these tires, but my initial impressions are it was a good choice. They are much quieter than the oem Bridgestones. Ride seems more firm, but I haven't checked to see how much air pressure the shop put in the tires. Steering response is much improved.

    As for the vibration many talk about, I haven't had any problems a simple tire balancing hasn't taken care of.
  • chrislrobchrislrob Member Posts: 4
    Hi, all. New to board so forgive my double post. I'm looking at a 1997 fully-loaded Pathy with 4 WD and 76,000 miles for $6900. It is very clean. Checks out on Carfax. Runs well. Pep Boys visual inspection shows nothing major BUT the check engine light is on! And Pep Boys says that could mean ANYTHING and that diagnosis could cost several hundred dollars.

    Thing is, according to Edmunds and other sites, this truck is way below retail market by about $1500-3000. And it's being sold by a Ford dealer.

    I am SO tempted to take the risk but what I really want to know is is what do you think the odds are that it is something serious? I know nothing about its history at all.

    One more thing. The driver's side passenger door is really stiff. The vin on the door matches the vin on the dash. And I can't see anything to suggest that the door was repaired or replaced. There is no paint overspray, mismatch, etc. And the door doesn't creak or grown, it's just stiff. Any idea why?

    I am salivating over this truck, but I'm going to have to buy it as is. Want to decide in the next day or so. After 3 weeks of looking, this is the first nice one I've seen.

    Thanks!
  • dieselonedieselone Member Posts: 5,729
    In my experience with Nissan's the check engine light coming on usually indicates the o2 sensors need replaced. Not a big deal. I had mine replaced on my 01 around 25k and a friend of mine that has a 93 and has had the same common problem.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Ask the Ford dealer to pay for the CEL dianosis before you buy it. The light could be on for something as simple as a loose gas cap or much more serious. A simple reading of the code will give you (or any shop) an idea of the seriousness of the issue.
  • chrislrobchrislrob Member Posts: 4
    Thanks, guys. They are supposed to send the truck down teh street today for a $90 diagnostic at the Nissan dealer. We'll see. After I posted this, I read a couple of horror stories about trying to figure out what's wrong. Glad I didn't buy until I know.

    Still wonder about the door, though...
  • mahipalcmahipalc Member Posts: 20
    I just had my first service done(3500 miles). Just before dropping the car at the dealer I noticed a small hole below the exhaust tail pipe and a black liquid leaking from it. I mentioned this to them and they checked it and said everything is ok. Is this a normal thing? Has anybody seen this before??

    Any inputs highly appreciated.
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