Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Thanks again!
I am very interested in the Yoko Geolanders so keep us up to date. What size are your tires and do they rub at any point? How worn were you OEM tires and how noisy were they? My pathfinder is very noisy at 50 MPH and up. I am starting to think Pathfinders are noisy cars but can't tell if it is all wind noise, road noise, or just tire noise. I know it is not the smooth engine.
I call it "power" noise because I'm not sure if it's engine noise or exhaust system noise. My guess is mostly it's exhaust which can be reduced by using quieter pipe, muffler or the like, but also with some loss of HP/torque.
Yes I also want the quietest tires maybe with a little sacrifice of performance.
My parents owned an old Ford van with a 460ci engine, and my mom drove it daily to her workplace, just under a mile from our house. By the time she reached work, the engine had barely warmed up! Needless to say, it developed severe problems after only 60,000 miles. It burned a quart of oil every 200 miles (burnt valve and bad rings) and at just over 90,000 miles a connecting rod broke loose and punched a few holes in the block, effectively ending its life.
The best thing you can do for your vehicle to counteract your repeated short trips is to give your car/engine a workout at least once a week: drive it at least 30 minutes continously, more if possible. You should also consider changing your engine oil at no greater than 3000-mile intervals.
Alternatively, consider walking or biking to work.
If you've no choice but to put this kind of wear on your vehicle, don't expect it to last that long.
The Pathfiners and QX4's are SUV trucks...That can do things that cars can't do...
Cars are quieter, mostly, than trucks...
Which brings me to another point... somebody mentioned they didn't think their LSD was working anymore & that they had used Mobil 1 gear lube in it. They also said that Mobil 1 had told them it is not compatible & that it should be used with an additive. Well, I spoke to Mobil 1 today & they said it is compatible with no additives. The manual calls for API GL-5, and he said Mobil 1 exceeds the performance requirements of API GL-5, as the bottle also states. It also calls for 80W-90, which he said Mobil 1, at 75W-90 also exceeds. I don't know why someone at Mobil 1 told you differently, but it seems to be ok to use. If you're still wondering if your LSD is working, you can check it by raising both rear wheels off the ground. With the engine off, car in neutral, & parking brake off, turn one of the rear wheels by hand. A good LSD will turn the opposite rear wheel the same direction. If the opposite wheel turns the opposite direction your LSD is toast.
The Geolander's I replaced my OEM Bridestones with are the same size 255/65/16. Do not rub under any circumstances. They look wider than the bridgestones for some reason, but clearance is fine. Handling is much much improved. Steering response is very crisp. Road noise is basically nonexistent, big improvement. The Yoko's don't seem to have as much sidewall flex, vehicle stays more stable in turns and inspires confidence. Ride quality has definitely taken a hit though. I'm still dialing in tire pressures, for some reason the shop filled the tires @ 40psi and it road like a buck board wagon. I lowered the pressure down to 32 psi today and it has improved some, but I will probably go ahead and reduce the pressure down to the recommended 26psi to see what happens.
I ran the oem's to 39k. I don't know what the exact tread depth was when replaced, but the were not down to the wear bars. I probably could have gotten another 5-10k out of them but wanted fresh rubber for winter. As far as noise is concerned, the oem's seemed to always have an annoying humming sound and it is basically completely quiet with the Yokos. At 50+ all I hear is wind noise that you'll get with a vehicle that has aerodynamics similar to a brick. I'll post again when I get more seat time with the air pressure further reduced. As it is I'm a little disappointed with the ride, it is pretty choppy. That just may be the trade off for the improved handling.
FYI..I moved the forward roof rail back(to rear) as much as possible and it helped a little with the wind noise
Don't get me wrong. All in all, I love my Pathfinder. The quality build, good design, and awesome engine.
Like Woodyr1 asked, which Geolander model did you buy? There are three. I think you got the unidirectional model with the sportier handling. If so, I think the standard model would ride a little softer with less handling. The third model is for heavy duty commercial trucks.
When I am at a constant speed and turn my head around and face to the right side, I hear more noise comes from the back. Maybe caused by the liftgate that can leak some air compared to a fix glass, or maybe caused by the less airodynamic square shape of the back.
Wonder if anybody applied sound-deadening material to their Path/QX4.
I have also noticed noise from the glass liftgate, especially on rainy days. I wonder if a wider seal or thicker glass would reduce the noise. I don't think there is a fix for this, so we might have to accept it. The noise is noticeable, but not bothersome...I just crank up the radio !!!
I have the air deflector on (from factory). I'll take it off to check the noise difference.
Hi pathalogical,
Right, I don't think there's a fix to the lift gate. Thicker glass is definetely better that's way some high-class cars have thicker glass. BTW my 00 RX300's front window glass is thicker than the back which is as thick as the QX4's. They say some MB cars even have double-pane windows...
Just recalled driving on one particular road, the QX4 was very quiet. So I think road/tire noise has
a big % of the total.
The roof rack removal does help some with the wind noise.
I read the wheel well can be a starting point to reduce road/tire noise, and there is some spray type of sound deadening material to apply. But don't know the details.
The latest "hot setup" for noise reduction is "Brown Bread". Ususally sold at car audio places. It sticks on. Not too expensive, but not cheap either.
I think I'll try what you just recommended, under the rear seat. That's an easy enough access. Maybe next I'll try the trunk area, under the carpet which is an easy access too. The door panel is a little difficult to remove and also not so easy to apply material inside, and I think it mainly reduces wind noise that is not so bad compared to road/tire noise.
Yes, there is some rubbing. The rears are fine, but the fronts rub at the extremes of steering wheel travel left and right. I removed the mud flaps from the front wheel wells and managed to adjust the splash guard at the front of the wheel well away from the tires and all seems to be good.
The Geolandar A/T Plus II's are GREAT by the way -- in both wet and dry. (and based on their ratings at Tirerack.com, I expect them to be spectacular in the snow.) Steering response is tremendous compared to the OEM Duelers. The larger size really looks good too -- I have gotten several positive comments on how well the tires fill the wheel wells. Really changes the look of the truck -- looks very agressive now.
I'd recommend them as long as you don't mind doing some minor mods to the front wheel wells.
Btw: Notice I went up to 265/70 size as opposed to 255/70. If you keep the 265 width but go up to a 70 series tire, you end up with a narrower contact patch. (of course, the 255/70 might not rub... )
Can you explain to us in detail the mud guard "mods" you mentioned. How long did it take with what tools? Did the mods change the look of the mud guards? Any other rubbing after the mods?
Thanks.
with the Mobil1 product." My owners manual calls for "Only LSD gear oil: API GL-5 and SAE 80W-90 approved for Nissan LSD" I have the factory service manual and it says exactly the same thing. I didn't try jacking up the car as you suggested, but I'm familiar with that procedure. I've had several cars in the past with LSD's. Mine is definitely not working anymore. If I have to accelerate quickly from a stop on a slippery road, the right rear tire will loose traction. If the LSD were working properly, both rear tires would lose traction simultaneously (if traction were lost at all). It's certainly possible that the problem has nothing to do with the Mobil 1 gear oil, but it sure seems coincidental. I do a lot of heavy towing, and I guess the heat generated from towing could have damaged the LSD unit. That's why I thought a synthetic product would be a good idea. When I get a chance to install the Red Line product I'll let you know if it solves the problem.
Backing up while turning the wheel to nearly the full extent left or right and then applying the brakes. (like backing out of a tight parking space)
It never rubs during during forward travel.
The rubbing occurs at the extreme left and right limit of the wheels -- the outside front edge of the tread catches on the front of the wheel well "tubs."
The mods are very minor and shoud require no more than normal household handtools.
Mod 1:
I removed the mud flaps from the rear of the front wheel well. They weren't rubbing, but one part was within 1/2" or so of the tire. I removed the flaps just for extra clearance for "fenderbergs" (snow build-up) in winter. (they seemed to be more for looks than anything since the step/running boards below the doors will deflect most any sand, snow, etc. coming off the front wheels.)
You need to remove three screws (2 hex heads, one philips) from each side. Total time 5 minutes.
Mod 2:
(This one is still in process.) I need to push the inside plastic wheel well tubs at the front of the wheel wells forward only an inch or so. The tubs are plastic and are lightly bolted/screwed to various body points. They are extremely flexible and I can easily push them to allow even more clearance than I need. The trick is to figure a way to attach a bracket to push them away from the tire from inside the wheel well, or pull them away from inside the fender. The only thing I've tried so far is to wedge something -- don't laugh, I used a few of my daughter's Legos -- inside the edge of the fender between the fender and the tubs. This seemed to work, but it is only a temporary solution as they will eventually fall out, or (if glued in place)could become traps for sand and salt.
I will post a couple of pictures when I get a chance.
Regards,
Jim
PS: Jack44 -- you make a good point about the width of the tire in snow. (and being from New Hampshire I usually see fair amount of it.)
But by increasing the width from 255 to 265 AND increasing the sidewall ratio from 65 to 70, I have kept the same overall treadwidth. Only the diameter increased. (by about 1/5")
For each side, I took 2 "8-bump" Legos (Black, so they wouldn't show), stacked them and epoxyed them together. Then I placed the glued Lego blocks horizontally into the gap between the fender lip and the tub about 8 inches from the bottom of the fender, pushing the tub forward about 1 inch. I then used a couple of dabs of epoxy to glue the blocks in place in the fender. I figure the Legos should be more than strong enough to resist any damage from road debris, but easy enough to cut out if necessary.
I put up some pictures here if you want to see.
BTW: re-reading my post from yesterday -- the change in diameter should be 1.5" not 1/5"
they lok great!
We went to the 265/70-16's on our '01 5-spd SE two years ago, and just put another set on last month. I will never go smaller. The added width has not been a detriment in CO's snow. In fact, they absolutly STOMPED in last years 48" blizzard.
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bgritz/lst?.dir=/Blizzard+Pics&a- mp;.src=ph&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.photo- s.yahoo.com/
In your last pic caption you stated "May not be enough for true off-roading"-.........you will be fine.
We've had both the front and rear sets of tires fully "stuffed" into the wells and there is still clearance (1/2" to 3/4"
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bgritz/vwp?.dir=/Canyonlands-Nee- - - dles+Oct.+2001&.dnm=110+Pathy+in+Devil%27s+Lane.jpg&.view- - - =t
all pics can be seen here:
http://photos.yahoo.com/bgritz
Enjoy them!
gritz
Mine will never see that much off-roading -- mud-filled dirt roads from the New Hampshire spring rains and thaw are about as "xtreme" as this truck gets. And I agree, I'll never go back to the OEM tires, the Yoko's handle so much better -- even with the slight rise in the center of gravity.
lbinh: No, I didn't bother with the spare. If I have to I could limp it home with OEM spare. (Be an interesting ride, though...)
edit: Just saw your photos. Your truck looks great! Now all you need is a 1-2" lift to complete the look!
I am new at this website. I think it's great that everyone sharing their ideas regarding vehical.
I just got a new 2003 LE. It's much nicer than my old 95 PF. For Nissan Pathfinder, it has come a longways.
One Problem I am experiencing is a noise coming from engine JUST AROUND 2,900 RMP to 3,100. Have not had a chance to bring it to the service department yet. It sounds like crakling noice as you are in too high of a gear in stickshif. Has Anyone experienced this problem? If you did what was the problem and the solution?
Thanks,
fishingguy1
Second, my owner's manual lists 2 different engines, but I thought all PF's came with the same 3.5 DOHC V6. Do you know what the differences are?
Thanks in advance!!
-eagle63
I removed the jack, brackets and rear seats to get to the bare floor board. I sized and installed Dynomat Xtreme to all the areas I could. Skipping the Fuel pump area, wires, and bolts (4' x 4' piece covers 60-70%). The body panel that supports the rear seat bolts did not have any insulation at all. I covered that panel almost completely. Re-installed everything (less than hour to do). Test drove it and did notice a small drop in interior noise. I am sure a complete cargo area and wheel well (maybe even passenger floor boards) floor board coverage with Dynomat would make a big difference. That stuff is expensive though. Thought I would test under rear seat first and maybe move to other areas.
Next thing for me is to replace the noisy OEM Duellers.
Hi ibinh, did you really notice a small noise drop, or could it be a psychological affect because you know there is something in there to supposedly reduce noise? The reason why I'm asking is since the material is expensive, I want to install it in the most efficient way and area.