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http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Drives/FirstDrives/articleId
=102983
Perhaps you should try and redo the review with another vehicle or another reviewer. Which are we to believe? Especially considering other sites reviews and the popularity so far of the new PF.
Exterior Styling - Still the main (if not the only) reason to buy this rig. There's nothing else like it right now and that may be reason enough to have one. It's clearly a guy's truck and women seem to recognize that. They like to drive it when we let them, but they also know we belong behind the wheel. The styling almost makes me look past the other issues I have with this truck.
Interior Styling - Eye catching and impressive for an SUV. Everyone who sits in it for the first time comments on the look and style of the interior. And what's not to like. It's a work of art in design and aesthetics. Functionality is another thing.
Driver Confort and Controls - Like I said, I'm a tall guy. Ford knows Americans can be tall and they build their trucks with that in mind. The Japanese don't rate that as high in the ranking of creature comforts. One thing that seems common to the Japanese made SUVs is that the driver's seat sits too high for a tall guy. I can't quite get the seat adjusted to where I want it and I'm always aware of this limitation. The stereo is nice enough and the controls are easy enough to use. The climate control system is another matter. Rather than easy push buttons they have chosen knobs that require turning to adjust virtually everything in the heating and AC department. This is slow and frustsating even after the overly long learning curve. After 4 months I'm still trying to master this system. Driver visibility is also a concern of mine. The view out the front windshield is fine. However, the view to the sides and rear is limited by the large B pillars and small back window. I'm always concerned when backing out of my garage or a parking space that I might not see another car or pedestrian. I spend more time double checking out of caution.
Other Interior Issues - Like I said before, the car makers feel we need three rows of seats whether we want them or not. That 3rd row doesn't belong in a mid-size SUV. Space is already limited and we want that room to haul BBQ's and appliances and lumber. All the extra mechanical gizmos required for those extra seats just takes up more room that is already presious to us. Skip the 3rd row seats. People who really want them can get a mini van or a full size SUV. More is not always better. Second row passengers also feel the pinch to their foot room because of all the hinging needed to move the seats around. Forget the 3rd row in favor of cargo room and passenger leg room. Rattles and squeaks are another annoyance. I know this is a truck, but I bought a Nissan, not a Rambler. I'm disappointed by the degree of rattles and squeaks coming from all areas of the interior after only a few thosand miles of freeway and city driving. Woe to the off roader who hopes to hear the nuances of his stereo above the rattles coming from the dashboard. The dash rattle has been mentioned several times on this site. Soon that will be the least of your concerns.
Interior Materials - Someone else mentioned this and I noticed it too. The carpet quality is less than expected for this vehicle. I didn't notice at first because the floor mats cover most areas of the carpet. I don't expect this carpet to hold up over many years of hard wear, especially the cargo area where the carpet is already showing signs of wear from sliding boxes and what not over the uneven surfaces. The plastic panels also concern me. The dash and door plastic surfaces are the same material as the carge area which are already scratched and gouged from moving things in and out. In time the dash and door panels will be scarred from normal wear and tear way beyond how they should be. I think the plastic is too soft and prone to gouges and marks that won't buff out. The Explorer had a more durable interior for heavy use.
Ride Quality - The ride was nice and smooth on the test drive where speeds were under 50 mph. Not so good at freeway speeds. On anything but the smoothest roads there's a rather severe front end vibration and steering wheel shimmy at speeds over 60 mph. I know I shouldn't expect car ride quality in an SUV on a truck chassis, but this is considerably worse than expected. It could be a tire balance issue but it isn't a problem on very smooth freeway sur
Ride Quality - The ride was nice and smooth on the test drive where speeds were under 50 mph. Not so good at freeway speeds. On anything but the smoothest roads there's a rather severe front end vibration and steering wheel shimmy at speeds over 60 mph. I know I shouldn't expect car ride quality in an SUV on a truck chassis, but this is considerably worse than expected. It could be a tire balance issue but it isn't a problem on very smooth freeway surfaces, which tends to rule out balancing as the cause. Add a few bumps and the front end is shaking like crazy, mostly from the left front it seems. I can even see the hood vibrating as the wheel shimmy sets in. I've also noticed a loud squeaking or creaking coming from the rear chassis area over bumps and during turns at lower speeds. Could be some of the frame or suspension bolts need tightening or maybe it's coming from the rear coil springs. This will be an issue for the dealer at the first oil change.
Drive Train - For the first 2,000 miles the engine and tranny were smooth and shifting was almost seamless. Then all of a sudden shifting began to feel sloppy like the tranny was slipping between gears, most noticeably from first to second. It's also developed a low end vibration that seems to be coming from the tranny at lower rpm's. It's almost like the engine is lugging and the vibration is very annoying. Also the engine doesn't feel as responsive and it doesn't down shift as tightly as before. Perhaps just a computer issue or maybe a problem in the torque converter. Definitely the biggest issue I have at this point and it will be the first item on the list when it goes to the dealer for warranty work.
Conclusion - I regret to say my new Pathfinder has not met expectations. By purchasing Nissan I had hoped for a reasonably trouble free ownership experience. I'm hoping many of these problems can be resolved by the service department. It's always frustrating to have to lose time from work to take a brand new vehicle to the dealership for repair. I will get to find out how responsive Nissan is to my complaints. Maybe the next 5000 miles will be more enjoyable. Would I buy this vehicle again right now? Hard to say, but maybe not. We'll see how happy I am after a round at the service department.
It is a new vehicle plant in the US which the new 05's are rolling off from. The factory has major teething problems as previously mentioned. Hopefully they will nip it in the bud as soon as possible and come up with the fixes you need. Previous R50 Pathfinders were built solid as a rock and hopefully they come up to speed on the newer models.
Quality issue: Is it because the '05 Pathfinders(titans, armadas, QX56) are built here in the new US plant that Nissan has to resort to using lower quality materials and build in order to offset the higher production costs??
the new plant is in canton, MS
My wife has the 2001 le 4x4, purchased two month after they roll out to the market, 38,000 plus on the odometer and it is rock solid, only oil changes and the rear bottoming issue which nissan
quickly fixed it. Hoping that the 2005 model we will have the same experienced as the 2001 model so, we purchased le 2x4 this time because of the
added third row seat for hauling kids to schools. To my disappointment it didn't meet my expectations, rattle on the engine compartment
which was the intake manifold issue (replacement parts on order by the dealer), brakes squeaks when backing out from the garage and poor radio
reception. Hopefully they will fixed all this issues and enjoy driving my pathy, Have 1,270 miles on it now. Overall I like my pathy.
If you can still feel resistance when you pull the hood release your cable is still connected. Have someone hold the release in the activated position (gently) and work the hood - sometimes thumping it with your fist will let it release - sometimes you have to push the hood side to side or front to rear. Once you get it open, you will need to adjust it so it works properly again. If you have never lubricated it this is the time - use a spray on grease such as door hinge lub.
If you have no resistance when operating the release lever your cable is either broken or the end has slipped out of the notch. You will have to access it from under the vehicle. Study another vehicle like your own to see what you will have to do to release the latch - usually there is a tab that has to be pushed back (it has a slot in it and the cable end goes there to pull it back). Sometimes you can push the hood up enough to get a screwdriver in to push the release, sometimes you have to access it from below.
Good luck!
I think he was refering to no mechanical failures, not lack of maintenance. Mine is in the same catagory, no failures yet (other than warrenty replacement of two O2 sensors), but I'm only just over 50,000 km.
That's why I buy these vehicles (Toyota and Nissan). Same thing happened with my previous 1990 4Runner. Eleven years and 130,000 km with no mech. failures on it as well.
- Mark
It's only been in the last few years that Nissan consolidated most of it's platforms, with the FM (350Z, G35, FX), the FF-L (Altima, Maxima, Murano, Quest), and F-Alpha (Titan, Armada, Frontier, Pathfinder, Xterra, and QX56).
Almost all cars these days are built on unibodies as they're lighter, smoother on the road, and make for a quieter ride. Trucks tend to use body-on-frame because it provides a better platform for distributing the stresses of heavy loads and it allows a single chassis design to be used in all sorts of different truck designs.
The time of body-on-frame design in cars ended fifteen or so years ago. SUVs can go either way these days with those SUVs emphasizing more comfort and better highway manners going unibody (e.g., Highlanders, Pilots), and those emphasizing towing, ruggedness, and off-road capability going body-on-frame (e.g., 4Runner, current Pathfinder). The Pathfinder started as body-on-frame, went to a unibody for the year you're interested in (I doubt it is based on the Maxima since the Maxima was strictly FWD, but I don't konw), and then in 2005 went back to a truck-based design.
- Mark
I should have been a bit more specific! I am referring to the day that I inspect and take possession, Rocky Mtn Paths
I just became a proud owner of a 2001 pathfinder LE. I love everything about it, but I would like to upgrade the VCR with a DVD player. Has anyone done this in the past? Any recommendations?
Thanks,
TB
I may purchase a '95 soon with leather, and i'm wondering if it is possible to slap a '91-'93 bumper on there? Will i have to do any modifications, or will it just bolt right on? I really like the pre'-03 front bumpers a lot better than the later models.
Also, where's a good place to find a pre'03 bumper and other spare parts?
My other choice is to buy a '91-'93 Pathfinder for a lot cheaper and get the interior redone with leather, i'm wondering if you guys know a place that does this, or somewhere I can pick up some leather seats.
Basically I just want a '91-'93 style bumper and a leather interior...
Do you guys have any suggestions/recommendations? Is the '95 model that much greater than the '91-'93 models feature-wise, or are they about equal?
Thanks in advance, i really appreciate any input.
Swapping new parts will be cost prohititve. Junkyards are where you get parts for this sort of swap.
Aftermarket leather is a common upgrade done in shops that specialize in interor work. These shops are common, but you want to find one with a good reputation. A quality job will likely run you $1500 or so, so you want to be sure you aren't investing too much in an old car where you'll never get your money back out if you sell.
- Mark
Also, I dont really mind putting out the $1500 to get my interior leather'd....that's a great price to me. I plan on doing a lot of work to this car, it'll be my project car so I dont really mind the depreciation factor on reselling it. Thanks.
I'd take everyone's criticism with a grain of salt. Most gripes are minor and nit picky in my opinion. I'm sure there are legitimate problems but it is a vehicle and perfection is an impossibility. Anyway, as for the walk through, someone mentioned something about the drivers door not being right. Ours is fine and I haven't heard anyone else mention it. For the walk around look for things like scratches, dings or marks on the interior. Other than this if there's something, you'll be covered under warranty anyway. Basically, it's nothing to stress over, just enjoy the new car feeling and write things down as they come up. We love our 05 SE 4x4; not an LE with all the whistle, but all that extra stuff would only confuse me.
Thanks for your input, I look forward to participating in this forum, Michael.
April Car & Driver
1st Jeep GC 0-60 6.8
2nd Nissan PF OR 0-60 7.5
3rd Mitsu Montero 0-60 10.2
4th VW Toureg 0-60 9.8
5th Toyota 4Runner 0-60 7.2
6th Ford Explorer 0-60 8.2
Just one up from the Explorer, ouch that has to hurt for Toyota fans. Even with the new V8 in 05 4Runners, the PF is about dead even. No quality issues mentioned like in the Edmunds review, but this was more of an off road test than a full review.
The Edmunds review caused me pause because of their comments on interior quality, but maybe they got a lemon.
I called today to get a price. They told me it was $499. Although they have to do a number of things for this service, the price seemed outrageous.
What have some of you paid for this service?
You might also find out if they're doing services not specified in the OM, although my experience is that they'll push hard to have you stick with their 30K "package".
- Mark
jgriff - I never experienced to many complaints about leg room in my old Nissan, have they changed the spacing for the new ones then?
unless you are over 6'4", no problems.
"have they changed the spacing for the new ones then?"
see above
Thanx...these threads are really long.
I'm working on talking myself out of this due to the cost of the trade. But, anyone out there, driving a Pathy with 5-speed with strong preference one way or the other? I do tow a small pop-up periodically, and I understand the auto. is better for towing, but I would think that is more important for heavier loads.
Thanks in advance for any feedback.
The only real negative about getting a 5-speed SUV is when you try to get rid of it. It might be a fun toy for you, but it's an odd duck when it comes time to sell it. 99% of buyers want the slushbox.
You already have the 240 HP engine, so there's no need to trade for that.
You can only get the 5-speed on the Pathfinder SE, so you'd be giving up most of the "luxury" goodies.
If you don't really need 4WD, I'd stick with what you have. Maybe spending a few bucks to get it professionally detailed and having the dents bumped out will make it feel "new" for you.
I have this too. Has this been resolved?
I’m 6’1”, and when I’m get into the back seat of the ’05 PF my knees are pressed right up against the front rows, unless the front seats have been move up a lot. It would have been nice if the 2nd row move forward & backwards ie. Pilot.
I’ve test driven several 02 & 03 PF and found the 2nd row to be very adequate. To me a flat 3rd row is a nice-to-have but not a requirement. I would just as soon have more room/comfort in the 2nd and NOT have the 3rd row.
In the end I will most likely go with the new Xterra, as I like the more rugged looks and smaller footprint, which I feel give it more agile.
My leather-wrapped steering wheel is starting to crack and erode after about 1.5 yrs of ownership (2003 model). I am wondering what you all have done to refurbish/protect your leather steering wheels. What products are out there that have worked for you?
I live in southern california so I get A LOT of sun - not good for interior or paint I'm afraid. I do use a sun shield underneath the windshield on a daily basis but the top and left side of the steering wheel are still starting to dry out/crack.
Thanks for any insight.