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Jeep Grand Cherokee

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Comments

  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I too thought they were appealing until a few days ago. I was stuck behind one and realized how messed up the rear-ends are. The spare tire hangs down and the muffler is also dangling around. It looks like they just got everything done and realized they fogot the spare and muffler so they got out the mig welder. The tire hangs rediculously low and the muffler is completely visible. I was in my Jeep so it's not like I was down low looking under it.

    Hey paramedic, what's your buddy have to say about the Tahoe? I think that's a much more appealing vehicle, and really don't seem that big to me. I parked beside one the other day and it wasn't much longer than my Cherokee.
  • paramedic99paramedic99 Member Posts: 64
    I will have to check with him on the Tahoe. I was interested in the Envoy before I bought the GJC and asked him then. I will see what he has to say and try and report back.

    I believe that any one of these discussions would include at least one buyer that was unhappy and had a slew of troubles. I think thats the case for all makes/models.

    Do we really know how the Envoy performs off road either ? Just curious ?
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    pardon the stupid question, but isn't a Tahoe just a slightly larger version of the Envoy??? wouldn't one expect the same problems with both of them???
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    envoy2002-

    CONGRATULATIONS!! Off the top of my head, I would say that you will NOT experience the same "nightmares" that you experienced with your Jeep. I guess time will tell.

    In many cases, the "5-STAR" Chrysler dealers are more of a nightmare than the product itself. Their endless excuses wear thin after a few service visits.

    Keep us informed.

    fastdriver
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Tahoe is built on the full-size truck platform. I'm not sure what platform the trailblazer is built on, but it's not the full-size truck. Engines, suspensions, pretty much everything is different between the Tahoe and Trailblazer. They may share some parts, but they are not similar models. The longer version of the Tahoe is the Suburban. I have a friend that has one of the newer suburbans and it's nice. He has six kids so that works out well.
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    thanks for the reponse...I started my SUV search today, Saturday, and drove both an Envoy and Yukon...I posted my experience in two topics, the GM triplets and the Yukon topic...no need to repeat it here, too...thanks.
  • zeke707zeke707 Member Posts: 74
    I have a 1993 JGC, 109k miles, purchased new. Never had an alignment, still has the original rear brakes, one set of pads on the front. Went through 6 tires, now have a new set. The tire wear has/is always even. Maintenance history: viscous coupler (under warranty), fuel pump at 90k, water pump at 100k, one set of plugs and wires at 96k. Currently runs well and has for the most part, been an acceptacle vehicle. I hope to keep it for a few more years.
  • jimobrien1jimobrien1 Member Posts: 1
    I bought the truck - used in December 2001 with 94k...the engine has a "spark knock" when first accelerating.I use 89 octane for the 5.2 V8. (At 12 - 13 MPG)no idea what the original owner used.
    New wires and plugs.Any ideas or similar experiences? And ,YES, I did have to rebuild the tranny - for $1800....
  • bluesun99bluesun99 Member Posts: 16
    I have this new 2002 Limited and it came with the 7yr/100,000 drive train warranty. Now I want to cover the rest of the vehicle for the same period of time. Question is what is the best service contract to purchase. What DC offers at $1695 or something else. The dealer is pushing one from CNA National at $1285 with a $100 deductible that is supposed to be good anywhere. I'm not familiar with them. Are there other service contracts out there that would be better than CNA or DC. Would a DC dealer honor a CNA contract? I plan on keeping this vehicle a while and I want it covered stem to stern. Help, advice and experiences appreciated.
  • oldjeepguyoldjeepguy Member Posts: 10
    I'm not familiar with CNA, but the "Gold" DC service contract on my '96 JGC covered virtually all mechanical problems I experienced between 36K and 75K mi. I say"virtually" because, to my knowledge, no extended warranty, DC or otherwise, will give you "stem to stern" coverage that your 3/36,000 bumper-to-bumper gives you. Soft trim repair/replacement, for example, is never covered beyond the original manufacturer's warranty with any service contact I'm aware of.
    I just picked up my new Overland on Friday, and declined extended warranty purchase. I'll buy it near the end of the vehicle's 3/36000 warranty period, thereby holding onto that money for another three years before giving it to DC. I personally believe that's a smarter way to go, particularly if, for some reason, you no longer have the Jeep in 2005. You can get refunds I'm sure, but why subject yourself to the hassle? And I'd be inclined to then go with the DC extended warranty just to avoid inevitable "discussions" with your dealer's service writer over what's covered and what's not. You may have these even with a DC service contact, but you'd likely have fewer of them.
    Just my 2 cents worth -- I'd be interested in other viewpoints. Enjoy the new Jeep!!!
    Different subject -- anybody installed a set of roof rack cross rails on a new Grand Cherokee?
  • paramedic99paramedic99 Member Posts: 64
    I just did the roof rack cross rails and the ski rack a few weeks ago on my 02. What can I help you with ?

    As for the Tahoe/Envoy discussion - it is on a different chasiss, but like I noted its a friend of mine that is the mechanic and I am merely relaying his concerns. I dont have any information on the tahoe - but do like the way the look etc.

    On service contracts - I agree with "oldjeepguy" I plan on buying my extended when I reach 30K plus and am certain I will continue to drive the vehicle as opposed to trade. I purchased one for my 99 Dodge Quad 4WD Ram and never used it. Traded it for the 02 JGC with 60K on it and it was never in the shop.
  • oldjeepguyoldjeepguy Member Posts: 10
    Thanks paramedic -- did you just pry up the plastic molding pieces at the rear of the rack with a screwdriver, then slide the new cross rails in? These plastic pieces are pretty stubborn, and I don't want to break them. Also, are the other small parts in the rail kit simply to ensure that the rails are kept safely rearward of the sunroof? How are they installed? Written instructions (in addition to sketches) from DC would have been helpful for us less than mechanical types... Muchas Gracias.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    bluesun99-

    I THOUGHT I had a link to a Chrysler dealer that sold Chrysler extended warranties at a much reduced price, but I can't find it. If you go to the Chrysler 300M topic here in Sedans, someone there will have it for you. Just tell them that fastdriver sent you there to ask.

    Also, I thought you had to buy the warranty by the end of the first year or 12,000 miles. Just double check this.

    fastdriver
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,281
    http://www.chryslerwarranty.com/


    I took a print out of a quote off that site to the dealer when we bought the extended warranty for out 01 Dodge Ram, we got the warranty through the dealer for $100 over cost. The look on the F&I guy's face was priceless....hehehe.

  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    akangl-

    That's not the site I was thinking of. It's something like Melin?? If I see it, I'll know it.

    fastdriver
  • paramedic99paramedic99 Member Posts: 64
    Yes I pryed the ends off with a screwdriver. Its all about lining them up to slide on and takes a little finesse. You can jam on the ends pretty well and not break the caps off. There is a site that demos this that was mentioned here before in the discussion but I cant seem to find it.

    There is supposed to be a rivet placed forward to prevent the rack from sliding forward but for what reason I am not sure. There arent even locking steps in that end of the track as far as I can see.

    Hopefully this will help. If not let me know.

    BTW you will need a step ladder to get up high enough to be able to line them up and slide them on as both sides need to go in at the same time.
  • tloke1tloke1 Member Posts: 185
    "Envoy2002", I don't think you are going to do any better with the Envoy vs the Jeep. Even though you had a lot of problems with your older Jeep, the newer ones are much more reliable. Very few problems have been reported with the 2001-2002 models. The GM trio, on the other hand, has been plagued with problems and quirks, especially on fit and finish, uncomfortable seat belts and seats, and overall build quality. My guess is you will still be visiting the repair shop regularly, it'll just be GM instead of the Jeep shop...
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Member Posts: 1,091
    Why is that so impressive to you? I would not expect a new car or a 1 year old car to have problems. Nobody can predict that a 2001 or 2002 will be better than the 1998, 1999 or 2000 models. They're just not old enough. Unless maybe your caomparing them to when the 1998's were BRAND new.
  • anonymous02anonymous02 Member Posts: 1,538
    All that said, what are the good and bad years for used GC's?
  • captbuschrod1captbuschrod1 Member Posts: 2
    New to this site, wish I had spent a few more hours researching 1999 JGC before buying one for my son. 68,000 miles, very clean, idles and runs well, and the very first day it exhibits the following: On starting the vehicle, all the warning lights light up, as expected, then go off EXCEPT the ABS and red Brake light, and the other electrical components (radio, CD player, trip computer) were dead. There was also a whine from the lower starboard side of engine (I-6). Turned engine off, restarted, and everything acted like it should. Restarted 6 more times and could not duplicate problem. Anyone have an idea what happened here? ALSO, is there someplace that I can check my VIN to see if TSB's have been issued, or if this model, etc. has been labeled by the mfg. as a "Lemon". Again, thanks for at least the knowledge that something could go wrong and to keep an eye out!
    Capt. B
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    captbuschrod1-

    You can check http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov for TSB's or http://www.carfax.com and pay for a full check.

    fastdriver
  • jynewfjynewf Member Posts: 26
    Actually, the most recent JD Powers survey for 2001 models places the JGC tied in second place among intermediate SUVs for 90 day initial quality (the Pathfinder placed first; the 4runner was tied with the JGC for second) If you go to autonews.com you can find the link for the 2001 JD Powers report.

    Certainly the jury is out as to how well JGC's will hold up after five years. Still, this is a big improvement over the JGC's past results in JD Power's initial quality survey, and is at least a good indication that 2001-2002 JGC quality will be better than in past model years.
  • cjaubertcjaubert Member Posts: 17
    First, let me say that I LOVE my 2000 JGC Limited 4x4. It has been AWESOME in every respect. I have one problem, though, that I need help with. When I turn the steering wheel full left, the four wheel drive seems to "walk" or bounce as the vehicle moves. The dealer tells me this is normal and that there is no repair. Is the dealer correct? If not, what is the repair and how do I explain to him that he is wrong? Thank you.
  • paramedic99paramedic99 Member Posts: 64
    Sounds like using 4WD on dry pavement or conditions that dont require its use ??? This probably does not happen in AWD mode ????

    Just thoughts.

    My 02 has been offroad in varying conditions and in snow etc and I have not had any such experience in 4W High. Have not needed to use 4 low yet.
  • livetodrivelivetodrive Member Posts: 104
    Paramedic hit the nail on the head. You most probably don't have Quadra Drive and are engaging four wheel drive on dry pavement. When the four-wheel drive is engaged, both front wheels are forced to rotate at the same speed. In a turn, the outside wheel will travel further than the inside wheel, but since it must rotate in sync. with the inside wheel, one of the wheels will skip on the road surface. The solution is to only engage four-wheel drive when needed - not on dry pavement.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Actually, even the quadra-drive systems will hop a bit on drive pavement with the wheels turned full-lock. I personally would avoid turning the wheel to the locked position, but sometimes that's hard. Not sure that it will really do more than scuff the tires because their is a center differential keeping things from binding back through the drivetrain.

    Now, if you only have a part-time system, you shouldn't be in 4X4 on dry pavement (or wet for that matter) as paramedic and livetodrive have suggested. But I think the limiteds only came with Quadra-drive back in '00 so I'm pretty sure you have the full-time system.

    Free Tid-bit: this is why I prefer the selec-trac system. You can run in 2wd if you want and will have much less noticable hopping. I will also add though, that even my Jeep in 2wd will scuff the tires a bit when turning full-lock. I think it's just a trait of the solid-front axle, which is part of why Jeeps are far superior off-road to 99% of the other SUV's on the road.
  • cjaubertcjaubert Member Posts: 17
    Thanks for the help. But, I do have Quadra-Drive and, therefore, cannot "deselect" it. The peculiar part of this, and the reason I posted it, is that the car did not do this when new, and it only developed over time. It is this progressive development that the dealer says is normal. I don't buy it .
  • milousmilous Member Posts: 39
    There's a photo of what the end caps look like here:
    http://www.wjjeeps.com/crossrails.htm

    They can actually be easily removed by hand if you pull in the right area, one side first. They are made of pretty strong plastic, I've taken mine off a few times with no harm.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    It's possible the tires have worn and makes it more noticable. Or you've changed the tires and the new tires are more suseptible to it. I don't know for sure, but from owning many 4X4 vehicles I've found sometimes they just have quircks. They have alot of drivetrain components and if you ripped them apart everytime they made a noise or did something "strange" you'd be busy. And I've had Toyotas, Jeeps, Dodges, etc. They all have had some sort of quirks directly related to the 4X4 systems and never amounted to anything over the life of the vehicle.

    My mother-in-laws '99 Grand Ltd. had it's first problem show up around 80K miles. She's getting a clunk when she backs up and turns the wheel. Not a big deal in my book, probably an axle or something. Her's has done the scuffing thing for as long as I remember, but again only when turning the wheels to the locked position. No idea if it's related to the scuffing, but I doubt it because I've had other vehicles with solid-front axles scuff the tires when turning sharp.
  • jeppingjepping Member Posts: 30
    cjaubert,

    It sounds like the same problem I had with my GCL Quadra Drive, It progressively got worse to a point where on low speed turns the whole car would shake vigorously. As usual the dealer was trying to tell me that it was normal or they couldn’t duplicate the problem. Anyway, I finally I dropped off the car at the dealer and told them that I wasn’t picking it up until fixed! Turned out to be a fairly simple fix, the technician called it “Viscous coupler not disengaging”. If I remember correctly the transfer case fluid was replaced with a fluid of different viscosity and that took care of the problem. I hope this helps. Good luck!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    "the best midsize SUV on the market when it comes to boulder-bashing. Few vehicles can touch this Jeep when the going gets rough"
    Spin Around Town: 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • ness5575ness5575 Member Posts: 29
    The computer in front of the shifter insists that ther is a "Rear Lamp Failure". I have checked every light in the back of the truck and it still claims that there is a failure. Is there a light i could be missing besides the obvious tail/stop/backup lights? Is there a way to override the system and make it stop flashing this at me??
    Thanks!
  • anonymous02anonymous02 Member Posts: 1,538
    How about a lamp in the INTERIOR of the car?
  • jam1000jam1000 Member Posts: 182
    I had this once on my old JGC -- turned out (after much searching) to be the brake light at the top of the liftgate. I'm pretty sure I couldn't override the warning. I think the purpose was to annoy me into getting it fixed.
  • greasykid1greasykid1 Member Posts: 336
    My GC does not go into overdrive until 50 mph. Consequently it rarely gets to overdrive around town. Also have a 300M which goes into overdrive at 40mph. Would like to have Jeep shift to od by 40 also for better gas milage.

    Has anybody been able to have the computer adjusted to lower the shift points? At what speed does your GC shift to OD? Appreciate feedback. Am still in warranty.
  • jefferson1964jefferson1964 Member Posts: 330
    IMO... I have a 98 JGC 4x4 SE 6cyl dont really need the 4x4 but its nice to have. Also have a ford escape which is quick and nimble but doesnt compare to the ride on the JGC on the highway as its far superior to the escape in ride and comfort. I think the JGC is up against stiff competition and an update is a must to keep it up to date with the newer suv's imo. Has anyone heard or read of the JGC being updated in 2003 or 2004?
  • peachtree103peachtree103 Member Posts: 182
    Last I remember (and it's a poor memory, at that), I think Chrysler put off the redesign from 2004 to as late as 2006. There may be a "freshening" in 2004, but no redesign. This was based on the cost of a new design, versus the cash drain that was occurring about 18 months ago. Things like this can change, but I wouldn't expect anything significant at least for the 2003 year.

    As for the review on Edmunds, I found it written from a bizarre viewpoint. Essentially said, "We liked it last time we drove it, but now we want a car, and this is still a Jeep" Huh? If that editor wants a convertible next week, will he be disappointed that it's not a Z3? I don't get the logic. Any manufacturer can make a tall station wagon. I want Jeep to make Jeeps.
  • peachtree103peachtree103 Member Posts: 182
    Still has the redesign scheduled for 2004, with a extended version for 3rd row seating. At least a 50-50 chance this is more accurate than my memory. :))
  • mdjeepmanmdjeepman Member Posts: 21
    I would not call shifting to overdrive only after you reach 50 mph normal. I have a 99 JGC I6. I know it goes into overdrive at a much lower speed than that. Seems to me that as long as I am driving on a fairly level road, or downhill, it will go into overdrive rather quickly, say 25-30 mph. Once it senses that I am not accelerating, it goes pretty quickly into overdrive and stays there unless i depress the accelerator sharply or begin to climb a rather steep hill. Not sure what can be done to fix your problem, but i wouldn't let a technician say it's normal. I have a Camry with overdrive and it behaves similarly. Hope this helps.
  • jklightnerjklightner Member Posts: 10
    This week I passed the 200,000 mile mark.. on the original 4.0 L engine. My oil consumption is up to half a quart between oil changes (every5,000 miles). Other than a fuel pump, just the normal stuff, tires, brakes, belt. Oh, and the Infinity Gold deck died on me. Anyone else with those kind of miles?

    Aloha
  • peachtree103peachtree103 Member Posts: 182
    I sold mine (96 Larado, V8, 4WD) to a friend when it had about 90K miles. Rode in it last week, with about 140K miles. AC is out, don't know if it's freon or compressor, and occasionally eats CD's, but mechanically is still sound. His previous Jeep was a Cherokee, with the 4.0 six, and he managed to get it above 250K (though the last 10K were not easy).

    Some may have initial build quality issues, granted, but the good ones are better than energizer bunnies.
  • kershaw1kershaw1 Member Posts: 1
    I have had 3 Grands so far and the '99 is my first lemon. Nothing but troubles that Jeep customer service ignores. Seals, hubs, recalls the works! So far the front axle has cost me over $1500 not including the so-called warranty work. My first 2 jeeps ('93 and '97) are still working fine and in my family but the '99 is a dog. I guess the changeover from Chrysler to Daimler wasn't so transparent after all. From now on I'll by buying GMC and urging everyone else to do the same. Buy a Jeep for reliability? That's gone it seems.

    Roger
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Member Posts: 1,091
    I don't think Daimler has anything to do with your '99 dog. Crysler has had the worst reputation in the industry for making dogs for years. I think Daimler has actually improved things. You probably just got lucky on the first 2.
  • stevem17stevem17 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 JGC LTD w/infinity gold sound system in-dash cd player. I'd like to add a hard wired 6 or 10 disk cd changer that can be mounted in the same location as the factory installed units. My questions are, does the factory run the cable to this location, what brands work with the in dash head unit, what's the cost and with the remote changer, does the single in dash CD changer still function. All responses appreciated.
  • rivolvorivolvo Member Posts: 2
    I recently bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. Love it so far.
    However, when it's cold, the engine hesitates and then kind of "jumps"
    into gear when first starting off. This goes away as soon as the
    SUV's warm.

    Anybody have a similar problem or know what might be causing this?
  • ronc5ronc5 Member Posts: 7
    Hi all, first post in awhile. Have the 2001 JGC Laredo. Have 4000 miles on it now and still getting a clunk when it goes into 5th gear (overdrive.) Have been watching the tach when it shifts, around 2000 rpm at 53 mph. Tach seems to float down to around 1700 at shift then back up towards 2000 rpm before it settles back to 1600 or 1700. Is this normal or an I getting some slippage? Haven't taken it to the dealer yet, would like to hear some opinions first.
    Also, what does everyone use to keep the lower panels and bumpers looking good? Thanks.
  • paramedic99paramedic99 Member Posts: 64
    I have an 02 and no problems with cold or warm starting ? How cold are we talking here ?

    Panels, interestingly enough there are 2 things I would recommend. This stuff called showroom shine which is basically a solution that changes the electrostatic charge of the panels and paint etc to avoid collecting dust easily. Funeral homes use it on their vehicles to keep them looking nice for processions, and dealers use them as it implies in the showroom. You can probably order it but not sure where from. I will try and determine and post. This works the best.

    I would also recommend bumper cleaner in black available at auto parts stores.

    Good luck !
  • bobhex40bobhex40 Member Posts: 63
    I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee and the owners manual states to lube the front steering at 15K. I see only 2 fittings, one per upper ball joint. Are there more??
  • billwfriendbillwfriend Member Posts: 44
    I've got an offer in on a 2000 JGC Laredo but I didn't take the time to play with the Overhead Console Mini-computer. Is there a "mode" that computes miles per gallon? I can't seem to find an explaination of all the features on the internet.

    Thanks!
  • milousmilous Member Posts: 39
    There are a few different version of the console, shown here:

    http://www.wjjeeps.com/evic.htm
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