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Comments
I've thought about having the dealer do my 2000 JGC (88,000 miles), but if it is easy enough to work through, I could probably do it myself. I have an ext warranty through a third party. I'm curious as to whether they would cover this continual issue from that year.
Any thoughts?
-Paul
good luck!
-Paul
I must admit that no matter what I have test driven ( BMW X5, Porsche Cayenne, Volvo XC 90, Lexus GX 470, Acura MDX, Toyota 4Runner, Infiniti FX ) I have been very happy to get back in my GC.
I want a new car because of the enormous safety advantages the current models afford and not because of any problems with my GC.
Can anyone tell me about what changes might be in store for Grand Cherokee for 2005? I would be most interested in safety features like traction and stability control. I gambled with the GC in Nov 1992 and I might be willing to try again if there are major changes worth waiting for.
i got the pads @ autozone
-Paul
Not too bad a job to replace either if you have decent tools. I used this as an excuse to buy some good 1/2" sockets, ratchet and breaker bar since the old 3/8" set I had would not budge the bolts on the calipers.
Note: have something to set the caliper on when changing only the rotors to keep strain off the hose...or an assistant would be good. I changed both front rotors in about an hour...first time for that. When I changed the pads later, had a much longer time until I figured out just how they fit back in.
One thing that would help on the calipers is to lub the caliper slid pins...I think this is where they stick and cause the over-heating and warping.
00' JGC Laredo (had brake problems on the '99 JCG as well)
Wanting a Jeep
Their true cost is what the dealer paid at auction plus some reconditioning. I don't think most pros look at books when they buy.
What is the "Kelley Blue Book" Price?
And look around in Real-World Trade-In Values - it's most educational.
Steve, Host
Would the new Mopar calipers with new pads (ceramic?) and Powerslot rotos be a good combination?
-Paul
The factory built your engine, that evidently didn't have the casting sludge rinsed out of it.
You shouldn't have experienced this, but this is not a design flaw. and it isn't necessarily an indication that the rest of the car is cursed. In fact it seems to demonstrate that the diagnostics on the car were working well.
The dealer was somewhat incompetent in finding the true problem, but when they did, DC are fixing it by putting in a new engine and hoses. I don't understand the stigma of that decision. I do understand the hassle and the frustration of missing your new car. And with a new engine, I certainly wouldn't be worried about the sludge, as they'll make sure the new engine is clean!
your jeep is going to be better than new. I don't see why you deserve a brand new one, when they're fixing yours according to the warranty they have with you.
Should the dealer come up with some way to recompense you for your troubles, Yeah, I think it would be a good PR move on his part to offer free oil changes or something, I don't know what 1 months payment is for you,(400-800) but perhaps you can nicely convince them that you deserve more to help you get by during the situation.
Since the fix was mechanical, and the component will be changed with a new one. I think they stood by their warranty. I assume one of the things you valued when you purchased your jeep was the 7/70 powertrain warranty. They seem to be upholding their end of the committment. (perhaps not represented to you in a very professional manner though)
best regards
Once I put the tranny into 4-Lo, all turn just fine, but it doesn't seem to want to engage using the alltime system.
Is there something I can check on the t-case to make sure everything is okay? If I check the fluid level, what should it be at?
Ordered some BFG AT KO's today (normal size). Love them on my Wrangler and actually pretty quiet. What is the largest tire size you can put on a 2000 JGC w/o having to do a lift or steering limits?
-Paul
Dave
You may also want to look at BF Goodrich tires.
Most of our driving is highway as well, but we contend with icy and muddy dirt roads (hilly unpaved driveways) as well as snow.
-Paul
You can check them out on TireRack site.
My size is 235/65/17. 2001 JGC Ltd. Good Luck.
Which V8 is the best 4.7, 5.2, or 5.9.
BTW is it possible to get an older Grand Cherokee with Selec Trac instead of Quadra Trac.
Quite frankly I remember a recall or notification of significant engine problems with at least some of the 4.0's because my husband and I discussed this and I told him not to worry becasue we had the V8.
In my experience with my '99, mileage seems to be just as related to how you drive as the engine size. My 5.2 V8 gets around 15-17 mi, but my highway drives are short and infrequent.
Lastly, from a recent conversation with my agent regarding this same issue, a young man driving a V8 will cost you more to insure.
Our average mpg is 15.6 all the time no matter how we drive it, I have actually had the instant mpg up to 99 mpg, but on instant I average 17 on short trips and 20 on longer trips.
I know it's inline but I still call it V6 most people around here do. It's the same engine as the Cherokee and the Wrangler have. I heard it's one of the most bulletproof engines ever, right up there with Chevy engines 4.3, 5.3, and 5.7, my uncle claims the Chrystler 5.2 is just as tough. Which is what I will probably get if I get a Grand Cherokee with a V8, because 4.7 is to new and I can't afford it. I would still like to know which is the best.
Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
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Edmunds.com
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I was traveling in the mountains (above 5000 ft) and that might explain its terrible performance. I mean one needed to floor the accelerator to get the kickdown. But almost as annoying was the poor response of the steering. It really lets you know in a hurry that this is not a car. The drivers seat was to soft for me. ( Perhaps the designers think that they need to compensate for a "firm ride")
The huge transmission tunnel between the front seats was ridiculous.
I would just say that my wife's Explorer which is several years older with 150k is a more pleasant ride.
Are his concerns valid? Any other potential problems that I shold tell my mechanic to look out for?
Thanks!
But in regards to RWD, it can be as safe as FWD but it depends a LOT on the tires.
My 2002 BMW has all seasons on it and handles great in the snow. If I had performance tires on it, it would be lousy in the snow.
Snow or all terrain tires work well to keep the car straight. In my Wrangler, I have never had to put it in 4WD to go through snow. I have BF Goodrich All Terrains on it and my tires do not spin in the snow unless I gun it.
My daughter was driving our 2000 Grand as her first car. We took her to a driving class where they learned how to drive defensively in their cars. She knew what the Jeep could and could not do and as a result, was safer in it.
If you are concerned about fishtailing in the Grand, put extra weight over the rear wheels (in the back storage area). Cat litter or a bag of dry cement works great. That should help the rear wheels maintain good contact into the snow.
Just my .02.
-Paul
Not only that, but I would recommend to sit down and read all the posts from start to finish in re: reliability of JGC. You may change your mind.
I love how my Quadra Drive w/ full-time 4WD handles in the slippery weather and we just bought our sons a '92 Dakota with 4WD for that reason. However, our price limit was $3-4K for their first vehicle.
Learning how to drive in the slippery stuff with AWD or 4WD doesn't really teach the driver much. You have more traction, sure, but that just leads to higher speeds, like taking turns faster. Then, when that driver is driving a 2 wheel drive car, they no longer have the luxury of the additional grip, and often wreck.
-I'll get off the soapbox now.
PS Forgot to mention this problem in my 02 Laredo I6, I am probably 1 in a million who has had a warped head in this engine, but they did fix it quick and right. Mike F
DaimlerChrysler Corporation
Models: Jeep Wrangler Years: 2000-2002
Jeep Cherokee Years: 2000-2001
Jeep Grand Cherokee Years: 1999-2002
Number Involved: 1,115,322
Dates of Manufacture: June 1998 – March 2002
Defect: On certain sport utility vehicles equipped with 4.0L engines, the design of the intake and exhaust manifolds could allow debris to accumulate at the #3 cylinder location, possibly resulting in a vehicle fire.
Remedy: Dealers will install a manifold shield to modify the airflow characteristics and to prevent the accumulation of debris in the area of the #3 cylinder. The manufacturer has reported that owner notification began May 13, 2002. Owners who do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact DaimlerChrysler at 1-800-853-1403.
I just purchased a 2001 JGC Limited 37,300 mi. I am shopping for a Chrysler Warranty and want to find where the best pricing might be and if the diff between the MaxCare and Added Care is worth the $.
The Chrysler Warranty only goes to 7yrs from in-service & to 75K mi. which means I get 4 years and about 38,000 mi for about $1,500 with $100 ded.
Any suggestions ? Tnx
To get details on coverage differences, etc go to www.servicecontracts.chrysler.com
My take was the Maxcare was worth it. The lesser coverage Added Care left out too many parts. Maxcare covers most things except brakes and wear parts such as wipers, etc.
Bill
I've only had my 2001 for a week and it handles great & rides nice. A/C is cold. I do hear some whine but not terrible or very loud..I don't think it's a problem (I hope)I'm the kind that I notice everything, so it's minimal. I've heard about rotor problems in the 2001 but mine seem ok. My last GC was a '93 & I traded it at 87K mi. Was getting expensive. I plan to keep this one until the warranty runs out & then either get another GC or check out a Toyota or maybe Honda Pilot depending where things are at in 4 years... I also checked the warreanty seller from Iowa, they were only $100 higher than I got locally $1,655 for MaxCare 7/75 chryslerwarranties dot com. If you are shopping for warranty quotes, they are definitely worth contacting.
Jeep 2 is a '95 5.2 GC laredo - "the sports car of SUV's" - bought as a lease return in '98 with 55k on the clock whatever the problems, this kicks [non-permissible content removed] ! - I've driven 911s, BMW 850csi's, ferraris and still am surprised at the oomph of this truck - now has 170k on it. Trany replaced at 125k normal; eats batteries - every other year - they both do, eats rotors - big car, wife has lead foot and thinks cars have an on/of switch. Only niggling problems are the 4WD switch warning (a pain) radio console bulbs blowing (can't find replacements)front doors sagging - love to hear of any fixes to these.
Bottom line - both these SUVs were relatively cheap to buy used (13k/16k respectively) aftermarket parts are reasonable and available and at this point don't owe me anything.
footnote - as I'm a glutton for punishment, just added to the collection with a 2001 RR 4.6 HSE - THAT one has an extended warranty
Now I want one. Probably because of the I6; I like something about the power delivery of inline 6's. Edmunds says stuff about poor ride and handling. I failed to notice this.
Presumably used ones are OK. Is there anything to watch for?
ILGYM