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I've moved the posts about fuel questions from both the New Owners and this topic to the Fuel & Mileage Questions" (formerly C70 MPG topic).
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This is my first post on Edmunds, I was searching for repair information on my 1998 C70 coupe. Boy do I have problems. My inspection was due on 12/06, when I went to have it inspected I could not get it done because the driver's side window will not go up or down, who would have known that if you window does not go up or down in VA, that you car will not pass inspection?. I got a Volvo technician to look at it, and he said the window regulator motor needs replacing. The motor, X bracket etc would cost around $500 and the labor around $600. The total cost at Don Beyer Volvo in Falls Church, VA, a whooping $1,200.00!!! Nobel Volvo of Fredericksburg, VA wants $1,032 to fix it. So, while I save up the money to get it fixed, I am riding around with an almost two month expired inspection sticker. Right now, with the help of a friend, I have a stick of wood pushing the window up to keep it from falling down. It has still dropped down about an inch, and with it being winter and cold, it really, really makes things a pain. Also, got another problem. I got this car from CarMax in Dulles, VA. It had around 63,000 miles on it at the time. The serpentine belt has been replaced, but I do not see anything about timing belt being replaced. The car now has 99,000 miles on it, and I still have not gotten the timing belt put on. Why you ask, well, I found out from the Don Beyer dealership that to get the 75,000 service, which includes the timing belt, it would cost me close to $800.00, and I do not even know if that includes changing the water pump out. I have read that if you do not change the water pump out, that it will start to leak, as the new belt puts extra strain on it. So I have a window that does not work, a timing belt that is getting ready to pop, and possibly destroy probably one of the best engines I have ever owned, and there are more problems. Here is where I need help from the people out there reading this. The two back tires on my Volvo C70 are worn down to the yellow belt on the very inside, I mean completely bald extending to about a half of inch to an inch. Both of the tires on the very inside are like this. I was told by a Volvo tech, that the C70 has some suspension problems and what was showing was a known problem with them. Does anybody know what could be causing it? How much it will cost to fix it? I have had the car aligned and this did not fix it, unless they messed up the alignment and this caused it, but I do not think so. I also will have to get the tires replaced after it is fixed. Currently I have the 225/45/17 Sumitomo's which I have had great luck with and I love them. So, it looks like I am going to have the tires replaced/suspension fixed (will this stop my car from passing inspection too?) I got the same tires priced on tirerack.com and I can get the Sumitomo's for $79.00 a piece, just over three hundred dollars for the four.
The last problem I have, the drivers seat stopped going back and forth, the electrical buttons do not work. I checked the fuses, they are all fine. Does anyone know what happened to the seat, and how much will it cost to fix it?
Thanks much,
Greg
Also ... no offense ... but if you can't afford an $800 repair or service, you really should not be driving a european car.
The timing belt really isn't a tough job. If you have anyone in the family who works on cars, they can probably handle it, maybe with the help of a repair manual.
I'm sorry, I know nothing of a suspension problem on these cars.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
For your window problem - try searching at some of the dedicated Volvo forums for "window regulator replacement" (I might be missing an s after forum, but try www.volvoforum.com, and the alternate of www.volvo-forum.com (or maybe there is an s after forum, in either case), as well as www.swedespeed.com. The hard part of window regulator replacement is usually getting the door panel off, and then back on again, as there are sometimes little hidden tabs and such that it helps to know "the trick" on how to remove and replace. If you find a decent set of instructions, and are patient and somewhat careful, it is not too difficult. You may not be able to figure out what parts you need until the door panel is off, however. It might just be the "slider" that attaches at the end of the regulator arm, and slides in the track at the bottom of the window glass. That's what it sounds like to me, if the window is completely loose. If the window is solidly attached, but the motor doesn't run, then there is a different problem.
If you are pushing 100k miles, then timing belt replacement is a good idea, although SOME Volvo engines don't show it as necessary until 105k or 120k miles. (But other engine types are earlier - so check out the maintenance guide. Timing belt replacement CAN be tricky, as you need to retain alignment between the crank and the cam shaft(s), via the toothed belt. It is more involved than a simple serpentine belt replacement. BTW, I don't know the specifics of your car, but water pumps are almost always driven off of the serpentine belt, and NOT the timing belt. The serpentine belt is of course also driving the alternator, AC compressor, power steering pump, etc.
Face it, your car needs a fair amount of work, some of which you may want to tackle yourself. But, as someone else said above, you may be best served by finding an independent mechanic who focuses in Swedish cars. They're out there!
I think the dealers will start taking OSD orders for MY 2008 cars some time in March, and was curious if there was anyting worth waiting for? :confuse:
FAIK, there are no substantial changes planned.
We could have waited for a 2008, but we decided a 2007 in hand is better than a 2008 in limbo (unknown changes and unknown price).
Given the dollar's continued slide against other currencies, I think we made the right choice to lock in before the inevitable 2008 price increase is announced. :P
The OSD experience is wonderful, have a great trip!
Thanks
We are scheduled to pick up our C70 in Gothenburg around Memorial Day...
Since we will be carrying suitcases with us, we want to be prepared for the chance to put the top down once or twice.
Does anyone have the dimensions of the luggage compartment? I'd like to know the maximum dimensions we have available so I know which suitcases will fit with the top down...
Thanks in advance for any help...
My quesiton is does anyone have an idea of what a timing belt job on that car might cost either at a Volvo dealership or a good independent mechanic? Car would be a summer toy for my wife. Never had a Volvo before, have owned 4 Audis and timing belt and water pump jobs on those can get pricey.
Thanks for any assistance.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
i know my '98 called for it in 75k ... but that's if it was built in the first half of the build year. they upped it to 90k later that year. i assumed it would still be 90k in '01. Why would they lower it again?
in any case, it is still some time before that car needs it.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
One more thing, is there an important difference in whether the car has the 2.3 or 2.4 liter engine?
Again, I appreciate the wisdom and advice.
2.4L is the C70LT, 197 hp
thanks.
VIN # = 56. Makes it the LPT (light pressure turbo)and 197hp.
let's see if the boss wants it.
Although the LPT is lower hp and also lower peak torque than the HPT, its torque is developed at lower rpm than the HPT. Thus for most normal/casual driving around, it doesn't feel too much different. In my opinion Volvo made a marketing mistake when they didn't make sure that the LPT had 200 hp, and not 197. (It's probably 200 DIN hp, as spec'd in Europe, but the SAE net hp rating for the US just misses the magic 200 level.)
thanks.
"Thus for most normal/casual driving around"--is about how she will use it. No test drive today--gray, 45 degrees and raining.
This is my first post on edmunds.com and am hoping to get some information. I'm in the process of car shopping and test drove the C70 and the S80 today. I really like the C70 as it offers the unique convertible-coupe feature. Though I liked the S80 as well, I feel there are similar options available at better prices.
Will greatly appreciate any feedback/advice regarding the two models.
You'll undoubtedly get some comment that you are comparing apples and oranges, but I'm the same way - I often look at widely-diverging cars that are in my rough target price range.
No matter what the car brand, you end up paying somewhere between $5k and $10k for the convertible feature. Alternatively you can use that money to buy either more performance, more luxury, or more room.
In Volvo's case, there isn't really an exact fixed-roof equivalent of the C70, although I guess you could argue that it is based on the S40. But for the price of a C70 you are talking about getting a well-equipped S60, or even a 6-cyl. S80 You can get some more performance via the S60 route, or more luxury and space via the S80 route. But there is something about a convertible that's worth the extra money! And the C70 performs well enough, and can be "luxed-up" enough, so that you are not really sacrificing much for the convertible, other than back-seat room (which is basically as good as convertibles get, but still not good compared to a sedan).
Thank you much for your comments and insight. I went for the C70. Have been driving it for 3 weeks now and I think its the best decision I ever made! I absolutely love the car and you were exactly right when you said the C70 offers the best of both worlds. I love the way it looks and runs and it matches perfectly with my personality.
Thanks again; really appreciate it.
Pia
I bought my 2007 C70 in May 2007. Had occasion to drive with my son out of the city to see the meteor shower a few weeks ago. Was on the freeway, late at night with few other cars. Seemed as if the Xenon headlamps only lit-up about 15 - 20 feet ahead of the car. At highway speeds this isn't enough coverage, so if there was no oncoming traffic I would temporarily turn-on the high beams. Thought it might be "me" since I am not getting any younger and have friends who hesitate driving at night because of their vision but my son commented on how dark the road was and so did my wife a few nights later. Has anyone else had a similar situation and can the headlamps be adjusted so that they are aimed slightly upward? All of my other cars had "normal" headlamps and have never had this problem. Otherwise, the car has performed well with no defects or dealer adjustments necessary. Bob
The vertical aim of the headlights is a bit different between when the roof is up, and when it is down. (With the roof in the trunk the front of the car is tipped up a tad more.) So the aiming should probably be done with the roof up, even if this might make the beams a little high with the roof down.
I seem to recall reading that Euro-spec C70's have a level adjustment knob on the dash for the regular headlights, and auto-leveling for the Bi-Xenons. (If you download a "world" owner's manual from the global Volvo web site you will see this described - the area around the headlight switch has this extra control.) My guess is that US safety laws prevent this sort of real-time adjustment - presumably to "protect" us from irresponsible headlight aiming!
NTHSA has recieved numerous complaints about xenon lights on european cars blinding on coming drivers.
So, Volvo just plays it safe.
I had to adjust the Xenons on my S60R upward too.
Haven't had an issue w/ the xenons on my S80 V8 though.
Will let you know if we still have problems...
I'm curious if anyone has started changing their own oil yet? Is there a reset light, similar to BMW?
Also does anyone know what type of lubricant is in the manual trans? I'm not going to change it for a while, but I eventually want to switch everyting over to synthetics to improve fuel economy and protect the lubricated parts better...
I was shocked when we had trouble finding a BMW with a manual, so I wasn't too surprised when it was even harder to find a Volvo with a manual.... but I was disappointed of course because it is just the opposite in Europe!!
thanks
I'm unsure about the price since I did it on my S70 myself.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
ive been having a problem starting the car over the last few weeks.
i start it but the RPM only goes up to 300-500 and then drops to Zero.
i had it serviced twice by 2 different garages that specialize in Volvos and both times was disappointed as the problem returned a day or two after repair.
i called the garage today, he claims that its not the immobilizer, nor the key.....
they already changed the spark plugs, the gas filter, the temperature sensor (since the fan comes on for 2 minutes after i turn off the car) and the onboard COMPUTER was reset.....
none of this has proved to be useful,......
anyone had a similar problem or can offer a solution ?
thanks in advance.