Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier

drew_ · February 2001

is caused by the engine's coolant pump which continues to circulate coolant within the aluminum alloy engine block (up till about 5 minutes after engine shutdown) so as to prevent hot spots. This is the primary reason for the pump's activity after engine shutoff. However, a nice benefit is that the air remains warm after startup if the vehicle is only shut down for about 1/2.

Drew
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dennett · February 2001

Mark-I'm going to the San Diego autoshow next week and I sure hope the Brabus Mercedes display comes here! Which MB cars were there? C32? Other AMG models? Tell us more about the Benz display!

Drew-I'm also posting over here to get your numbers up!! I'm used to seeing the M-class forum at or near the top of the list, you need to rally the troops! Just kidding you! Talk to you on Friday.

drew_ · February 2001

Have been busy this week. I'll rally the troops next week ;-) Unfortunately, I probably won't be able to make Friday's chat (not all of it anyway) because of prior commitments. We're finally getting some snow tonight/tomorrow/Friday so I'll go out and have some fun while I can! Pictures, if possible, of course. :-)

Drew
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sshowitt · February 2001

On my 98 320(since traded in with the fender flares) I installed the grey ones without any backing along the edge. I have been told by a tech that they use a mastic, sort of a grey playdoughy type of adhesive. Recently I bought a set of "take-off" grey flares at quite a good price and had them painted white to match the 00 white ML430. Against a white vehicle and white fender flare this grey mastic would stand out. 3M makes a white two sided tape that I probably will use. Body shop supply houses carry this, I believe it also comes in other colors. Naturally clean and wax area that will be covered by the flares. Put the tape on the fender and trim accordingly, do not remove the backing to the tape on the fender side, just leave a little tab so that once you get the fender in proper place, pull the tab to expose the tape against the fender.
Press the fender in place and finish tighting the mounting screws.
this should act as a protectorant to the cars finish where the fender meets the flare, keep the dirt from getting in between and keep any possible wind noice from occuring.

mark156 · February 2001

Dennett: The Brabus display was huge. I would say they must have had at least 20 cars. This display was completely separate from the regular Mercedes area. In fact, it was in a completely different building. Anyway, they had "supercharged" Mercedes of every level (C,E,S,CL,SL,ML). As I mentioned before, the prices were staggering. Not only was the motor different, so was the lower cladding, the wheels/tires, the stitching in the seats, the steering wheel (rather square on the S-class that I saw). The cars are very custom. In my opinion, at that price, I would move in the Bentley/Rolls area. PS. I'll be away for couple of weeks so I'll check this site when I return.

Mark

gpvs · February 2001

Is it normal for that light to be on when I turn off the engine without taking the key off? I thought that the blinking red light there is for security and should not light up when I have not taken the key off.

armoredveh · February 2001

All,

Does anyone know the MB color code for Java, or the part numbers for the Java leather shift knob and center console trim cover from the designio series? I'm having a hell of a time finding this info.

TIA for any help. Regards, Bill Shaw

jmcnally · February 2001

I've had my new 320 for about 2 months, I am pretty happy with so far, except for the tires. I have the Grabbers and do a lot of xway driving, already have 6500 miles. After spending about 1hrs today going through previous posts, Edmunds diabled the "display all messages", I found little to help.

I read somewhere in manual that the "wrong" tires could void warranty; do they just mean wrong speed rating or size etc?

I am interested in the Yokohoma Geolander (yes I read auto mag) or the Mich. Cross terrain. As long as they can handle, are rated, for the weight of the Ml am I safe?

Also would love further guidance on good "soft" highway driving tire.

thanks in advance

newtomb · February 2001

I do believe we will be buying our first MB (used) and it will be a '99 ML320. It has roughly 21,800 miles, all the bells and whistles and has been a dealer car to date. Used as a demo and service loaner. The records look good, nothing out of the ordinary. The only paint chips I can find are on the edges of the back two doors, very minor and will be fixed. The ML will be Starmarked prior to pick up and will retain the remainder of the new car warranty. With all this in mind, plus they are paying off the $11K we owe on our '98 Caravan, my question is, Does $24K for the ML320 sound like a great/good deal? The Kelly Blue Book Trade-In value was between $28K-$30K depending on how you marked the engine/exterior. Other than the couple of chips there are two very minor dings near the driver's door handle, which can only be seen from a side view, not straight on.

I would be interested in your opinion.

Thanks

thor3 · February 2001

Your question if you are getting a good deal is not that easy to answer. 1st you say that the dealer is paying off the 98 Caravan - what you really need to look at is not what you owe but what they can get for that vehicle. Just because you owe $11K does not mean that they are actually going to pay this. If they sell or have a wholesaler willing to buy said for over the payoff value they are really not spending $11K.

Anyway, getting back to the 99 ML320. Don't only look at obvious chips and door dings...these would not be repaired at each return from being a loaner or rental. Any accident damage would be though and this would not have any noticeable sign that you could tell. Outright ask to see the total service record and ask if it has been in for any body repair - you might just want to circumvent the sales dept and go back to service and ask for them to pull the service history - some dealers will even print a soft copy for you. Don't ask sales to do this for you until you have done your own homework... sales has the most to loose so they would be the most likely to "cover up." NOT THAT THERE IS ANYTHING WRONG WITH THIS VEHICLE BUT IT DOES NOT HURT TO CHECK IT OUT!

Another thing to consider is that loaners and rental vehicles of any sort are the most abused vehicles on the lot. People don't tend to care for them or take ordinary precautions that they would with their own vehicle. There could be more wear and tear on such a vehicle. Most of this would be invisible to you - but check tire wear and any sidewall damage, look under truck for signs of scrapes...

You mention "all the bells and whistles" - what does this mean? Does it have leather interior with Bose Stereo, Moonroof, Heated Seats.... Look at the exact options on this vehicle to determine the true resale/wholesale value.

Also, look at the items that you will be needing to replace soon if they have not already been done and perhaps ask the dealer to do them prior to sale or as conditions of sale. Have the front brake pads been replaced... very common at this mileage... when was the last service done - by mileage it should have been done recently (about every 10K miles).

Get the exact date of "in service" so you know when your warranty expires (4 years / 50K miles).

Last - chips can be touched up and small dents with no paint damage can be removed by companies such as Dent Works (paintless ding removal). Dealers are very familiar with these companies and employ them regularly - moral of my comment don't be afraid to ask for dings to be removed... If they are small dents they can usually be removed with absolutely no piantwork. Check interior for wear and tear... anything look damaged or worn (won't be covered by warranty) ask dealer to have item or items replaced prior to you picking up vehicle.

Last and not least - anything the dealer tells you they are going to do after the sale GET IN WRITING if you use the gentleman's handshake method you will quickly learn who's NOT the gentleman/men. Remember that $24K is a good deal for them or they would not be selling at said... Dealers don't give cars/trucks away... you probably have undervalued your trade-in (Caravan). Bottom line, if you are happy with deal that is what is most important. The good news is that the 1999 had many safety improvements over the 1998 models... ESP, BAS... these are reasons that you should be looking at 1999 over the 1998's.

Good Luck and Welcome to the ML forum - we look forward to helping you with your new purchase. BTW - if you care to share what dealer you are using after you secure transaction you will probably get some good feedback from current members using same dealer.

Frank

thor3 · February 2001

I read my post above and it is not clear in my meaning of checking vehicles past history. To clarify, many dealers sublet to an "approved" body shop that may or may not dealer owned. Sales departments do not have to go through service to get non-warranty work done on a particular vehicle. They can write separate Purchase Orders directly to repair facility and this will never show up in Service History. What you want is a guarantee in writing that the vehicle has not been in an accident and repaired without you having the right to inspect such. Most good body shops will have individuals that could look it over and tell if there has been any repair/s done. After you buy it the ball is in your court. ONCE AGAIN I AM NOT SAYING THAT THIS VEHICLE HAS BEEN IN ANY ACCIDENT but it would be a shame to find such out later. The fact that a Demo/Service Loaner has been driven by many different individuals on a regular basis greatly increases the chance of fender benders and such repairs... ONCE again these don't always end up in history if they were not sublet directly from service.

Make sure you drive said vehicle at highway speeds to see that there is no shimmy or vibration coming through steering wheel or felt through seat. It is a way of determining bent/out of balance rims/worn tires.... Make sure it tracks straight (does not pull to right or left on level surface....

Sorry to be so wordy but it pays to investigate your purchase.

Frank

citykidd · February 2001

If anyone can help to answer this question, it would be greatly appreciated. After hours of negotiations with my local MB dealer, we finally agreed to a fair price. All was well until the dealer told me that I must now tack on an additional advertising fee to our negotiated price in order to come to the final sales price.

I thought the car was a good deal until I realized that I was actually paying $500 more than I wanted to (for advertising no less). Is this normal? Has anyone else had this experience?

Thanks!

biker5 · February 2001

Yes it is normal, especially if you buy your car thru internet, which they call it participating dealer fee.I paid $400 on top of the deal price, but I'm ready for it because I read it somewhere here at edmunds...I think its in the first portion of the pages when you are checking the price of the vehicle, also it say the ad fee is its depend where you live. The bottomm line is I was happy with the deal even I paid ad fee. I have 2k ML320,and I love it...

drew_ · February 2001

Great answer! I couldn't have said it any better myself. Keep up the good work. I've been busy, so I'll only have the time to post later today :-)

Drew
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newtomb · February 2001

Thanks for the response. Each point is very important and to this point we have "tested" the vehicle. This is the first time we have bought used so it is going to be an experience, hopefully good.

The vehicle is being Starmarked this morning prior to our going down to sign. I will make certain they provide the records on Maintenance and repair, and a written note that it has not been in an accident.

With the 137 Starmark check I will be certain to ask questions about the brakes, tires, etc as you have suggested. The VMI report on a '98 ML320 scared us away the first time. So far this one is looking much better.

As for driving the vehicle, we did and at HIGHway speed, it ran fine. We also looked over the vehicle as though we were buying a new vehicle, because of the price, though it may be good, it is still a lot of money. From that perspective, kick the tires, slam the doors, etc., it checks out very well from what we could see. I love cars and my wife intend to drive this for 10+ years, so it has to be to a certain level to be acceptable for us.

As for the price, from what you have seen are we in the ballpark for a good deal? Are we getting what should be expected for a vehicle like this in the condition we perceive it to be?

Certainly we could have sold our van for more money, but like I said I have avoided buying used because of the possibility of unforeseen problems. And for that reason I would hate to sell a car to an individual knowing that somewhere down the road something could go wrong and they would blame us. So we feel good about handing over the vehicle. We did check with Edmunds and we are slightly under Trade-in Value for the van for what we received and $4k-$6k under Trade-in value for the ML320. I know they are not giving us a great deal, we are hoping we are making at least a good deal.

I do not think we would be driving the van for 10+ years as we expect we will do with the ML320. That was a big part of the decision, as except for the Van we have always kept vehicles for 10 years or more. Heck I am still driving an '84 Volvo.

Again, thanks for taking the time to respond.

kozzy1 · February 2001

Yes, there is an advertising fee for some dealerships depending on their region. I puchased my 2K ML430 from Bloomington, IL and didn't believe the dealer when they told me they were being charged an ad fee from MB. So I called the 800 MERCEDES number, and they confirmed that certain, but not all dealerships were charged the ad fee. I don't remember the amount, but I paid it. To be certain, ask your dealership to show you the invoice from MB. If the ad fee is on the invoice, then you know it's there, but you still have to decide whether you want to pay for it.

Try telling your sales associate that you don't appreciate hearing about an ad fee near the end of your negotiation. "It's a deal breaker." Tell him/her that if he/she wants you to pay, they should have mentioned it early in the negotiation. Tell them that as part of quality/excellent customer service, it is your expectation that it is their responsibility to disclose all fees at the start of negotiations. If it isn't on the window sticker or disclosed to you, then how are you supposed to know about it. Also remind them that you will be evaluating their customer service and dealership on the MB survey that all purchasing customers receive. The dealership hopes to get the highest ratings.

Try telling them that the ad fee is a cost of doing business, and they are responsible for it. If they don't fold, offer to split the ad fee.

These are just a few suggestions that I've heard have helped others successfully negotiate for a good deal on a car.
Tom

citykidd · February 2001

Thanks for the great feedback everyone.

Tom, you're right, this was a "deal breaker", the manager wouldn't split the difference or even agree to lower it by a mere $100. It left a bad feeling about the purchase price, the dealership and even whether the car was worth it. I had to walk out (the manager acted like he could care less).

I'm now deciding whether I should try another dealership, or go back and accept this ridiculous charge.

mlx52 · February 2001

I went to the Chicago Auto Show last night and was quite impressed with the Mercedes booth. However, I was quite surprised that I didn't see the C-Class wagon or coupe. I might have just missed them, but I thought I saw all that was inside the booth as I stopped by it four or five times!! I was quite impressed with the C-Class sedan and found myself sitting in it for over 10 minutes. However, the only limitation to this car is that they don't offer it in a 4Matic version. I remember hearing that they might offer this system on the C-Class. Has this rumor been dismissed or confirmed by MB?
I also was very intrigued in the S-Class and the automatic trunk closing mechanism, what a great thing for a lazy person!! The CLK 55 AMG looked amazing and I immediately feel in love with it, however I would much rather have a car that is good with or without snow.

Jamie

js888 · February 2001

I'm sure Advertising Fee is absorbed into the final price of everything we purchase in our everyday lives.
However, to separate the fee and tack it on to the consumer's final negotiated price is not only tacky, it's downright obscene.
Ad. Fee, in my opinion, is the cost of doing business, and is a tax-write off item on a company's balance sheet.
What's next? Advertising Fee on gasoline purchases?

Just my $0.02.

Joe

kiiwii · February 2001

I'm not sure if it's really charged from MB heardquarters, or if it's just a local dealer trick to get more $$ out of your pocket. I stopped by several dealers before I got my ML320. There was only one dealer asked for ad fee. The sales dude showed me the invoice and claimed it's "required." (yeah, right~)

Anyhow, check more dealers before you buy your MB.

newtomb · February 2001

Who has an opinion? MB wants to sell me a 24 month extended warranty for $1100 or 36 month for $1500. Is it worth it? I have never purchased one before for any of the cars I own. Do I need it on a used '99 ML320? What type of problems should I expect up to 100,000 miles?

Thanks

sshowitt · February 2001

The mb warranty is offered in two versions, a std and a premium. It is offered 1, 2, 3 or 4 yr.
I bought the premium 4 yr. 50k mile warranty on both my cars. My understanding is that you have to buy it within 12 months by the original purchaser of the vehicle, it is transferable.
If you plan on keeping the vehicle past the warranty, i would advise in favor of it, cheap insurance, also most of it will probably be recouped at resale time. E-mail me and I will direct you to a dealer who discounts the premium 4 yr 50K warranty.
On another note, all, if not all MBs with the exception of the ML have right sided gas filler nozzles. You would think that MB would have VDO, the guage maker, have the pump on the fuel gauge face with the hose on the left(instead of the right) to indicate where the fuel filler cap is. It must be the std. guage face and instead of a separate gauge face for the ml, they use what they have in stock.
As to the advertising fee, that is BS, I have never heard of it being charged out to the customer. MB dealers work on 7% plus their holdback plus added quarterly incentives. You did not mention if they discounted the MSRP and if they, did how much? Try www.autobytel.com and see what they come up with. If you are in New England, I could probably recommend a few dealers.
BTW, never use the customer questionaire as a negotiating tool, that is your way of sticking it to the dealer if they have stuck it to you. I have read where dealers give trinkets, floor mats, etc, to the customer if the customer gives them the blank questionair back so that the dealer can fill it in. Part of the dealer's and the salesman's commissions are based on getting all excellents on this questionaire.
I guess I am spoiled because I can honestly say that I have a very good dealer with NO complaints either in the purchasing or the servicing of my vehicles.

rexconde1 · February 2001

Off to the Autoshow at 8:30 tomorrow. Unfortunatly I left my flash and normal lens in Vegas. I have my PS though.

I take pictures tomorrow, which reminds me that I have to get film.

YIPEE!

espresso1 · February 2001

Sshowitt,
Would you send me any info of the dealer that discounts the warantee?
I couldn't get your email address. Thanks.

rwharcha · February 2001

I have been learning a lot just reading this forum over the past 4 months. Most of my questions eventually are answered by just "reading". I have visited several showrooms in the tri-state and especially like the 430 with sport pkg. I have 98 S-320 . It really has all the power I need. I never tow anything, so I probably don't need to spend the $$ on ML 430, but I have noticed that several on forum have traded up to the 430 , that were original ML 320 owners. I like the larger wheels , rims, on 430. I also am hearing things about the my2002 ML that make me want to wait. I presently have multiple cars, so a decision can be made in Oct. when I believe all the rumors will be answered. I have been posting on most of the Friday Freeway Chats. Nice to talk with you, and to everyone on this forum. Russ.

espresso1 · February 2001

Sshowitt,
Would you send me any info of the dealer that discounts the warantee?
I couldn't get your email address. Thanks.

tracy_leb · February 2001

Would you please send me your email address as well or just info on where to get a discount on the extended warranty? I tried to get your email address, but even after logging in, the state of the art Town Hall software tells me that I have to login before it can give me your email address. Sigh.

my address is tracy_leb@yahoo.com

Thanks in advance

...Tracy

drew_ · February 2001

Hmm, that's a new bug. I'll let the appropriate people know about it. BTW, have you introduced yourself in the M-class Meet the members topic? The link is at the top of the screen under the topic title. There is an M-class dealers and service experiences topic that you maywish to contribute in.

Drew
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thor3 · February 2001

newtomb,

Make sure that the extended warranty is an actual MB warranty and not a 3rd party vendor (after market warranty). As sshowitt mentioned there are two options for coverage at least on the new ML's - ask them specifically what warranty covers. They should have a printed copy for you to read over.

To answer your question, Yes! I think it is a good idea to have a warranty up to 100,000 miles on even an MB. You don't know exactly what might pop up after your 4year 50K mile factory warranty expires. Most failures will occur later in a vehicles life and certainly could cost you considerable $$$$ to repair. Once again you need to read exactly what the warranty covers. Also, the terms of the warranty assumes that you religiously maintain and keep records for your MB... so it would pay to have dealer service your vehicle so records are very clear.

To determine which warranty you need you need to calculate your expected annual mileage. Once you multiply this by the # of years it takes to reach or exceed 100K miles you will know if you need the 24 or 36 month warranty. Also, check and make sure just what "24" and "36" mean. When does this time start? You would assume after the 4 years meaning you have 6 or 7 years of warranty as long as you stay under the 100K miles. On the reverse of this if you put high mileage on your vehicles you may exceed the mileage way before the 6 or 7th year so you'll be out of warranty at that point.

Finally, ask if you have any time to make decision to purchase said warranty or if it HAS TO BE AT TIME OF SALE. It very well may be that you must purchase it at time of sale (I can't remember exact terms of MB Starmarked Warranty - which is what I hope you are being offered). If you do have a speicifed time period you could hold off until then but remember you won't be able to finance it into the price of the ML and pay for it over time. An MB warranty is far better than any 3rd party warranty and should be honored at any MB dealer in the US and may be transferable - yet another question to ask : )

Good luck - it sounds like a very exciting time for you!

Frank
1999 ML430

dt77 · February 2001

Hey wassup people.

Man, this place has 1600 odd messages.

HElla annoying to search for something.

I finally put on my Hella Mirco FFs for my external fogs with yellow bulbs.

I also have normal hella H3 bulbs in the intergrated headlamp assembly. LOSTA LIGHTS !

The intergrated fogs and external fogs can both turned on by the fog lamp switch that was activated long time ago.

unfortunately, all that beautiful road illumination came to an end about 1 hour or so. The front fog lamp FUSE blew ! I recall reading the same thing happened to someone on this board, or maybe on another one. I replaced the fuse, but I'm pretty sure the same thing will happen again. WHY ?

the H3 bulbs in the integrated headlamp assembly is 12V55. the same goes for the bulbs in my mirco FFs.

any remedies out there ?

replace fuse with higher rating ?

help !

dt77

http://fullspeed.to/ml

sshowitt · February 2001

My e-mail is Modntractr@aol.com. I am surprised that it did not come up in my profile. I paid $1575.00 for a 4 yr. 50K mile MB premium warranty for an 00 ML430.
You can charge it on your a/e or visa and get mileage besides. I will be out of town till sunday, I will respond on Monday with the information by e-mail directly to you.

tracy_leb · February 2001

I was at least one of the persons that had trouble with dual fogs on one circuit. The problem is that the 4 55 watt bulbs you are probably using draws more than the 160 watts the wires and fuse in the circuit will accommodate. So you blow a fuse. An involved story told briefly: you can try a bigger fuse but it will void your warranty for the entire fuse block, at least, when the inevitable melt down comes. You would be better served to put the second pair of fog lights on a relay, have the relay fused separately, and have the relay triggered, if you wish, by the first or integrated pair of fogs. That way both sets will go on at the same time. You could also run a separate switch, but I bet you found, like me, that having them both come on is just too cool!

As a slight digression, I had the dealer do a variation of this and was pleased with the results. In my case I had a pair of big hella ralleye lenses with 120 watt bulbs installed, via a fused relay to the ML's rear fog light switch. Talk about light output! These beams blow away any Xenon bulb out there. Highly illegal, I'll hasten to add, and I have not, and will not, use them when there's anyone (in sight) in front of me or coming at me. Unfortunately, this massive light output severely limits how often I can safely use them. But it makes back mountain roads in the dead of night a real joy to drive!!! That's the reason I had the installed. One other detail is that the big Hellas are so-called Euro lights, and have a really cool amber parking light that illuminates when the ML's parking lights and/or headlights are on. I get endless complements on these! End digression.

On my next trip to the dealer, for the first FSS, in about a month, I will complete the project by re-installing the dealer installed hella fogs to go on at the same time the integrated fogs do, in the manner described above.

Hope this helps...

...Tracy

kenyee · February 2001

Tracy:
I can't picture this. You have these giant lamps on your brushguard and they glow yellow when the parking lights and headlights are on?

tracy_leb · February 2001

A lot of folks on this board paid MSRP for their ML'ss. And according to many reports, the dealership doesn't make that much on the sale of the vehicle. If you negotiate to under MSRP, it is good for you. If the dealer, at the last minute, tacks on additional fees, it is not a good thing. The fee may be real, but buried if the ML is sold at MSRP. Otherwise they brake it out to, in theory at least, mitigate their reduced income from the sale.

This said, there are still more people wanting ML's than there are ML for sale. In the end the dealer sets the terms and the customer buys or not. If one customer doesn't, another one will be along who will. Even with the added fee, if you are buying at under MSRP you are getting a better deal than most -- that is reason to be happy! If you want the "best" deal, wait until the end of the model year or just after the beginning of the new model year (for a deal on the previous model year ML, that is). Patients brings rewards in this case.

OTOH, and stepping onto the soap box, I never cease to be amazed at how many people don't just go get what they want and can well afford, without having to try to squeeze every penny out of the folks they are buying from, and then use the inability to further squeeze the dealer as a reson not to buy. What crap! If you go to 2, 3, 10, or 30 dealerships until you get one who will save you a few hundred dollars, what have you really saved, anyway? How much is your time worth? Does the fact that you have probably pissed off many dealerships due to your, shall I say "thriftiness" matter to you? Are you going to take the ML to any of these places for service once or if you finally get one? Good luck!

Or worse than trying to squeeze the dealer, so many people will use a trivial BS detail to hide the fact that they really can't afford the ML in the first place, as in, "boy I really was gonna buy that ML, but, you know, I was disgusted with the attitude of the sales rep (because he wouldn't come down $7.5K on the price, being unstated), or gosh, I just didn't like the color of the carpet at the dealership, or, you know, I just didn't like the shape of the shifter knob (or fill in the blank), and so, after going to 5 MB dealerships (or every one within 300 miles), I went someplace else bought something else and spent 15 thousand dollars less, and, you know, it's just as good as the ML! Glad I didn't spend all that extra money for nothing!!!!!" As if they ever had the money in the first place.

Bottom line: you are made aware of what MSRP is when you look at the sticker. If you are unhappy with how far down you can screw the dealer, you simply can't afford it, don't snivel, just don't buy it. There is always something available for less; not necessarily a MB, but something: Range Rover, Pathfinder, Ford -- you can really get a bargin on an Explorer these days. . . or even a Kia!

Okay, now just where did I put my welding mask and flame retardant suit

...Tracy

tracy_leb · February 2001

The lamps are a little bigger than the ML's front star and situated just on each side of the star. The parking bulbs in the Hella's emit a georgous amber color. The small bulbs are 5 watt, if I remember correctly. They are on when the parking lights and/or headlights are on. They are not on when the 120 watt bulbs are on. I will get some pix and post them along with the pix of the brushguard.

...Tracy

kenyee · February 2001

Tracy:
Do you have these? I'm surprised you get any significant light out of the tiny parking light bulbs underneath :-)

tracy_leb · February 2001

I was wrong on the part. I bought a spare when I got them and after reading your post, dug it out. According to the box it is a Hella Luminator FF Halogen Driving Lamp, part number 1F8 007 560-051. They are round, measures 222 mm across and 130 mm deep. The amber bulb doesn’t put out much light – it’s only 5 watt, but a really cool color.

…Tracy

tracy_leb · February 2001

Why does the software replace selected characters
such as "'" and "--" with a "–" or "&38217;" This happens when I cut from Word and paste into the TH software

drew_ · February 2001

That's the problem (cutting and pasting from Word). Word inserts its own coding and it messes up when you copy and paste the text into the post box. Try typing the text directly into the post box itself, or if you must type the text offline in a separate programme, use an ASCII compatible text editor instead (ex. Notepad).

Drew
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drew_ · February 2001

The reason why your e-mail address did not show up in the profile is because you marked it as "Private". To change this, click on the "My Profile" link near the top of the screen and change the e-mail section to "Public".

drew_ · February 2001

Looks like the next generation M-class will arrive in late fall of 2004, for model year 2005.

Drew
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rwharcha · February 2001

Can you elaborate more? Sounds like you have made a confirmed statement.Also, whenever you receive info on MY 2002 ML , please share with forum. Thanks,

Russ.

tracy_leb · February 2001

Don’t cut and paste?! I cannot believe that the lameheads that developed this software can’t deal with pasted text. In 20 some web sites I frequent, including this one prior to the “upgrade,” this is a first. Not that it’s your fault, Drew, but it is LAME, LAME, LAME.

kiiwii · February 2001

I took my ML to Discount Tires and bought the road hazard warrenty and lifetime wheel balance and rotation. The road hazard warrenty costs about $13 for each tire. It covers any kind of road damage to your tires. Since I take my ML off-road once in a while, I need that extra warrenty on tires. Lifetime balance costs $14. Since MB free maintenance is about every 10K or so, it's wise to balance the tires yourself about every 5K.

markml55 · February 2001

Has anyone figured out how to hack into the fiber optic LAN in the 2001 ML's ? I have heard a regular Motorola timeport will work but not all functions are there. The adapter cradle is 800.00!!! are they crazy ? Whats the deal with Mercedes and phones? Does anyone out there know the facts on the fiber optic system on 2001 M's ?

kenyee · February 2001

FYI, for those of you who want to really test out your ML off-roading:

Let's talk adventure. In order to get our DV trip off the ground I need some quick feedback. Plan is to spend three days in Death Valley driving, exploring and just
to have a good time. The days I have in my calendar noted down are March

9,10 and 11. For you guys with extremely tight schedules it should be possible to join the group for the last two days.

I have organized similar trips twice in 1997 and 1998
(http://www.4x4abc.com/DV/report.html)

Driving in the Death Valley area is not something that can be done fast- so, we need a few days to do it. Especially since I plan to give you a lot of input on how to drive best when the roads get rough - that will take some time. Also, successful driving in the rough is done slowly, sometimes very slowly. There are two important reasons for that: To avoid damage and to avoid getting stuck. This does not mean I want to take you into some impossible terrain - far from it. Especially the easy stuff is potentially dangerous, because it is often underestimated. So, in order to keep our guard up we have to be slow. I know many of you do not mind damage and can easily afford it. But since there is no AAA or towing service out there you'll have to leave your vehicle behind. Not a pleasant thought, is it?

Best thing would be to meet in Trona on Friday morning. That will give you enough time to get to Ridgecrest on Thursday evening and spend the night in motel. Close by Trona does not have a reliable motel. Start on Friday should be early (8 o'clock or so). For the guys that can't make it out on Thursday, I have an alternative meeting point for Friday noon in mind.

Now comes the big question (the majority decides): Do you want to spend Friday and Saturday night in a Death Valley hotel - or do you want to include one night camping (Saturday). I highly recommend the camping night but I also realize that many have never done it and are somewhat hesitant. In case we decide for a mixture of hotel/camping I will assist you to pack/buy the right stuff for a night in the desert (don't worry, this will be easy). I will go with whatever the majority decides - so, e-mail your answers / questions / comments as soon as possible. We need to make this quick so I can make reservations at the hotel(s).

Another question (here the minority tips the scale): I have the hot springs of Saline Valley on my list for a visit. It is an ancient Indian site as well as an "ancient" Hippie site (amazing how fast hip things become ancient). As part of the Hippie culture the "clothing optional" rule was adopted by the NPS. Please be very open and honest with your input when you write me back. Do you want to stop there and soak for a while or do you prefer to wave with the windows rolled up and continue driving up the canyon? I really don't want to make anyone feel uncomfortable and if just one participant would prefer not stop there we will go on. Don't hesitate to say "NO" because you don't want to ruin the trip for others.

Deadline for your answer (is that your final answer?) is February 19, 2001.

Now the money part. I have not had a chance yet to talk to the hotels for current rates but I expect rates around $90 per night. Final numbers should be in this week. My fee is $250 per vehicle including $100 going to a charitable organization. With the donation we avoid being a commercial tour and with that we avoid all the hassle of difficult to obtain permits by the DV NPS, $1Million insurance etc.

Regards,

-- Harold Pietschmann
Writer - Photographer
4WD Consulting & Training
http://www.4x4abc.com
adventure@4x4abc.com

redgoatee7 · February 2001

Hey,

"Mercedes plant in Alabama to double in size by 2005" :

http://www.auto.com/industry/iwira12_20010212.htm

"The plant produced just over 80,000 M-Class vehicles in 2000, a number which will drop to 78,000 this year, said Taylor. He said the 2,000-car reduction is only to prepare for major model changes coming in 2002."

Hmmmm...major model changes? 2002?

-Todd

birger · February 2001

Hi,

On two occasions recently, the COMAND has acted up: First, on a trip back from France, it lost its voice - instead of giving guidance, the radio just cut out, leaving us with a brief period of FM hiss. Weird, and cured by turning off the engine and hitting the lock switch (on the remote). A week later (last Friday), but probably only some 100 miles later, the LCD screen was out of action. No way to revive it, and operating the COMAND with no screen is a royal PITA. Of course, when I wanted to take the truck to the dealer on Saturday morning, everything worked OK. Still, it's going in to be checked, and I'll insist on an exchange.

Over the weekend, I managed to scan two pages from the European ML owner's manual. Unfortunately, they're in French, but the important thing is that they show yet a third version of the ML headlight capsule, with Xenon low beams, H1 hi beams, AND H3 foglights!

This is the "normal" ML headlight capsule seen from behind:

And this is the "tri-function" Xenon headlight capsule:

Now, getting hold of one of those would be nice - no bother fitting separate foglights, and they could (if the 2002 facelift isn't too extensive) easily be transferred to a future truck. When I bring the truck in for the COMAND problem, I'll see if the parts people can come up with something.

Would have loved to join Harold Pietschmann and the rest of you in DV, but unfortunately I'm a bit far away... ;-)

Kind regards,

Birger

rexconde1 · February 2001

intéresser... Les xenons n'ont pas des lampes de stationnement.

J'essaye toujours de figurer hors de la façon installer les lampes du stationnement 5W.

Le foglamp est également placé dans une position beaucoup différente que sur l'unité d'halogène.

Respects,
Robert

birger · February 2001

- indeed, you're right, the Xenons shown do NOT have the 5W bulb. I wonder if it's a general misprint, i.e. that where they apparently want the 55W H3 to go is really the place for the 5W. The way they put it, it certainly takes some pretty fancy optics in order to acheive a foglight beam. Later this week, when I take the truck in to have them look at the COMAND problem, I'll try to get a look at a ML55 (if they have any).

Kind regards - and compliments on responding in French

Birger

Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier

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