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Comments
this forum was beneficial locating the dash rattle and hopefully the dealers remedy.
also, the rpm at freeway speed (75 mph) is about 3000. seems high in relation to the e320 that loafs at around 2500.
When: Saturday Jan 19
Where: Pine Barrens (Lebanon State Forest, NJ)
Meet: Intersection of Rte 70 and 72 near Whiting, NJ
Time: 10:45-11am
Who: AWD/4wd Vehicles (no 2wd please)
What: Off-road Trail Ride through the barrens, will be fun for all, we encourage Subarus, Rav4s, CRVs, Isuzus, Highlanders, 4-runners, Santa Fe, Explorers, etc.
****Details****
My 320 runs high RPMs also I haven't checked but I guess 75 is 3200 or so too. I think its the greater rolling resistance of the ML and or the engine is cleaner burning at some RPMs. HAPPY TRUCKING!
One question... have any of you noticed that the power steering seems really tight (hard to turn) in small spaces. Example: when stopped or starting to roll slowly and needing to turn the wheel all of the way left or right... it takes a lot of effort to turn the wheel. Do you think it might be the extra wide tires needing extra effort?
Thanks, Mark
Interesting thing is they replaced the pistons and rings with same as coming from the factory...will I have another failure in 24K miles?
Look out for excessive oil useage!
Nehoffman: Did you change the oil at the regularly scheduled recommendation from MB? (Meaning... did you wait until the computer told you to change it) On my '00 E430, I changed the oil at 1,500 and 6,500, I have 13,000 on it now. I didn't want to wait so long.
I'm afraid of waiting until 10,000 miles for an oil change on the ML. So far, the oil level seems fine at 2,800 miles.
Mark
Hopt this help
Like 'thecpa', I noticed that one rattle in the back comes from the seat belt buckle banging around when it hangs at the wrong height. Why its the right side only, I can't figure out.
However, my 2000 ML320 had two other rattles that required MB parts to fix. One was under the rear seat and took an enormous number of parts to fix, and the other was in the rear hatch itself. I either didn't hear that one or confused it with all the noise from the seat. The dealer's shop manager found that on his test drive of the vehicle. That is what they said; on my car they have replaced a lot of parts without my complaints. I think its a preemptive strike on known problem areas.
I would hope MB would have designed the fix for those rattles into the 2002.
The area problem is the flaps on the backs of the rear seats that cover the gaps in the floor when the seats are folded down. My SA and Service Manager both told me MB hasn't come up with a fix to stop that rattle when the car bounces over something.
in the Boston/New England Area would be greatly appreciated.
Are the dealers willing to negotiate the price below MSRP?
I saw the new ML at the LA auto show and it looked like the only improvement on the rear foot well flaps was the carpeting/padding.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I have had my ML for a month and 2,900 miles and I have no rattles. I ordered the third seat option which I'm very pleased with. I just installed a front bug guard hopefully to detour rocks from hitting the hood and windshield.
Happy Motoring. Mark
1. The passenger side rear view mirror won't tilt down even w/ the adjustment control is set to the passenger.
2. Battery died when my wife left the lights on. I was under the impression that the electrical system was improved that it would go off automatically.
Anyone seen these?
Thanks!
I am also considering getting the sp5000's so I'd be interested in how you like them vs. Grandtreks. I have a 99ml430 with 40k on mine and they still aren't quite to the wear indicator but have lost much of the wet weather bite. I've been hesitant to purchase the SP's because they are hard to find, expensive and everyone I talk to at the tire shop seems to think they aren't the best tire for an SUV. Probably like you, I'm looking for better street performance, noise and handling rather than offroad ability.
I really like my 2002 ML500. The only suggestions I have are:
-Steering wheel controls for the radio would be
very convenient.
-Lumbar support for the front seats.
-Power steering slightly stiff in tight turns.
I also received the "dealership" survey of which I gave glowing reviews. The only small problem was that the "master" service guy didn't know that the cars with bi-xenons have halogen bright lights for when you want to flash an on coming car without the lights on. If the bi-xenons are on, the shutter will open and you can flash with the xenon lights. I was majorly surprised that he didn't know this. Now I know why I had so much trouble with my '91 560 SEL when it was time for a major repair. They could never get the car fixed just right. In my opinion, Mercedes service guys know how to replace parts and can barely diagnose a problem.
M.
Thanks
Thanks!!!
I've got a 2000 320ML with none of the above. Nothing at all in 18 months.(knock on wood)!
The only one I have is the right rear seat belt rattles when it rewinds and hangs on the outside edge of the seat. The rattles mentioned in the above list were not the belt but required parts to fix. HAPPY TRUCKING!
The only All-Terrain tire I could find for the size 255/65/16, was the Michelin XPC
and they where over $130 at www.tirerack.com. I recently found
a good tire: TOYO OPEN COUNTRY A/T from www.tredepot.com for
$83. I checked the Toyo web-site and the Tread Patern looks
good. I will probably get this tire.
Thanks again
I just scheduled a new service appointment with a different dealer and he was asking me what I had done on the car, service wise, I told him that I had the rear brakes changed. He was very surprised, especially considering the mileage. He asked me if the brake change indicator had gone off on the dash. It had not. I didnt even know there was such an indicator. He said that that was very unusual and that the rear brakes should last about 35,000 - 40,000 miles.
I live in central NJ suburbs and most of my driving is highway driving.
Has anyone else experienced this? I feel either something was defective with the vehicle or that I got screwed by that dealer.
I am thinking about writing a letter to the dealer and/or MBUSA and asking for a refund. If it was due to some defect it should have been covered under warranty and if the dealer screwed me they should refund my fee anyway.
Has anyone else had a similar experience? Please post when you changed the brakes on your M class and how you would characterize your driving habits nand what part of the country you live in.
Thanks
I have never replaced any brakes this early. They replaced the front ones free of charge, "as a courtesy", because they haven't stopped squealing since the day I bought it!(it has been in over four times for this problem and they already changed them too about 4k ago)
I have decided that since this car is in the shop more than on the road and since they expect that I will be changing the brakes every 15-20K, I am much better off selling it now.
Most concerning - when all the BAS/ and other brake lights going off while driving on the freeway far from home. They say that the indicator lights are just inadvertently going off.
Due to this poor experience, of saving pennies to buy what was supposed to be a great car, I will never buy another Mercedes again! but good luck to you!
And as I have stated earlier the service rep was particullarly surprised at the rear brakes wearing down. Apparently usually the front brakes wear down much sooner than rear brakes.
Also, the rear hatch lock does not lock with the automatic lock switch or the remote unless I open up the hatch and manually lock it. This is annoying since whenever you stop the car and turn off the ignition all of the locks automatically unlock including the hatch. I then have to go and manually lock it each time. I will have this fixed as well.
I read so often of poor brake pad wear life on the M-Class. I just inspected my pads with 39,550 miles on my 1998 ML-320 and the front pads are 0.263" thick and the rears are 0.308" thick. New pads are 0.383" thick, and the allowable minimum wear is 0.120". This calculates to my brake wear being 40% for the front and 30% for the rear. If the wear was linear it would mean I could expect to reach almost 100,000 miles before the front pads require replacement, and 138,000 miles for the rears. I don't expect this since the rotor surfaces are no longer perfectly smooth, and the wear rate should increase somewhat.
My driving is mostly highway, with few hills, except for the two trips to California across the Rockies. Also, I'm a conservative driver and usually get excellent brake and tire life.
How did you manage to measure brake pad width? And what do you make of all the brake noise and dirt that they give off? What about the BAS lights going off - separate system I realize but still related to turning & braking....
AKIN67 - I never had a door latch problem but beware - my GPS died on two separate occasions (faulty) And check the trim around the two front doors - it may start to buckle (defective).
On my vehicle I never had any brake noise. My brakes have always been smooth and quiet. The brake dust is another problem I guess we all have. I spot clean the wheels with a paper towel and WD-40 when it bothers me and I'm going someplace where I want it to look good.
Regarding the "BSA" lights. I don't know what that is. I have no indication while driving that my ABS is malfunctioning, and the ETS warning light only flashes (very infrequently) when I drive on snow covered Wisconsin roads.
Wally
M.