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Mercedes-Benz M-class (ML320, ML350, ML500 and ML55) 2005 and earlier

1148149151153154157

Comments

  • markjennmarkjenn Member Posts: 1,142
    Rick, no, never worked for MB, just an owner who has been forced to get pretty involved with his car to keep costs under control.

    I doubt the extended warranty would apply to your car, although it might be ammunition to use to get MB to cover it under goodwill. I don't think the car being a used car is any problem; the issue would be that the warranty is probably specific to the USA since it came from MBUSA. Also, the warranty covers cars which were serviced with conventional (rather than synthetic) oil. Your car was probably built and serviced after MB started using and recommending synthetic oil exclusively.

    The warranty was part of MBUSA's settlement with US owners after a class action lawsuit was filed. Basically, it extends the engine warranty to 150K and 10 years for problems related to sludging and other oil problems attributable to the use of conventional (rather than synthetic) motor oils as MB originally specified and as was commonly used in MB's "free scheduled maintenance" program. In March 2001 MB changed their recommendations to always require synthetic oil.

    Good luck with your car,

    - Mark
  • jborsjbors Member Posts: 6
    Dear Mark,

    I have a 99 ML 320 with the same symptoms (high altitude loss of power). The engine runs fine at low rpms but revs extremely roughly with almost no power. Most times you are forced to pull over quickly as the power loss comes on suddenly (not fun it you are on a 2 lane mountain highway with little shoulder). Some times you can limp along on the reduced power; other times you have to shut the car down for some time and the problem usually goes away. I believed the issue could be related to the fuel pump, which has been known to overheat and have issues on the early MLs (I have not replaced the pump). But the problem doesn't occur on every trip to elevation, but probably more than half.

    I figured that this is just a difficult intermittent idiosyncrasy that would never be successfully diagnosed as I live in the SF Bay Area (where the problem has never occurred). But I travel often to Lake Tahoe and LA and both destinations have passes from 4000-7000 ft elevation.

    I recently learned about the fuel filter update from my independent repair shop and believed that the update might also take care of the high altitude problem. Nope: the stall problem occurred again when I recently drove up to about 8000 ft. in order to climb Mt Whitney. But then, returning home through Lk Tahoe, it didn't stall at 7000 ft.

    So, my guess is that this nagging problem lives on, at least for me. Let me know if your car's trouble at elevation has been permanently solved.

    --John B
  • markjennmarkjenn Member Posts: 1,142
    John,

    Now you've got me worred again! ;-)

    I'm cautiously optimistic that the problem is gone. I've taken a couple trips since the repair in situations where the problem would often occur and had no issues. But as you are noting, that's no guarantee - I've had instance where the problem would happen early in a trip, I'd limp along for an hour or so, and then be fine for a thousand miles afterwards. Extremely frustrating. But since the repair (about one year and 15K miles ago), not a hiccup.

    There may be some interaction between a marginal fuel pump (which as you note has been very problematic, especially on the early models) and the filter as well. Perhaps a new fuel filter on mine has masked a fuel pump problem that is still there. On one of my repair trips, I pushed MB hard just to get a new/updated fuel pump, but for some reason then pushed back hard, did a bunch of diagnostic work, and decided to replace the crankshaft position sensor. At this time, they said they'd replace the pump if the problem re-occurred, but when it did a year later, I got a new service advisor that said all they'd do is the fuel filter update. Needless to say, I'm never buying another MB product.

    When I started to have the problem, it seemed temperature related in that high/hot was the likely scenario, but just before the new fuel filter, I had it happen on a winter ski trip, so this sorta blew the overheating theory out of the water.

    And on one trip, the problem was especially severe and we tried leaving the gas cap off. This seemed to solve the problem on this trip. This made me think the perhaps it was related to fuel tank venting.

    If the problem ever comes back, I'll sell the car. I've given this issue all the time and trouble I care to. Life's too short.

    - Mark
  • msonntagmsonntag Member Posts: 3
    I have an '03 ML 500 and have the whistling noise cited in this message--happens at startup, comes from behind left dash behind instrument panel, usually in the morning upon first startup of the day, lasts 30 seconds or so. Very annoying and getting more consistent--is now happening every morning when I start up. tiger2doll mentions replacing the "famous Aspirator Motor". I can't find a reference to this object anywhere else in this forum. If it is "famous" I assume it has been talked about somewhere. Could someone please provide me with some information about this problem that I can provide my dealer. Based on previous experience I can guarantee their response is going to be that they "can't duplicate" the problem so I want to go in armed with information about what they need to fix. Thanks in advance for any help!

    M.
  • chumsaechumsae Member Posts: 61
    Recently replaced one on a 2000 ML320. I picked up the part at the dealer (about $80) and a nearby garage did the labor (about $20). You may hear different
    pricing numbers; when my garage called MB they were quoted $115 for the blower, but when I went there to pick it up ">they charged $75 plus tax.

    Rick
  • mark156mark156 Member Posts: 1,915
    Msonntag, I had the same problem on cold mornings in 2002 ML500..... I can't remember what the problem was but the dealer took care of it. They didn't have to duplicate the problem, when I mentioned the noise, they knew what it was.

    Mark
    2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
  • 500e500e Member Posts: 13
    I need to re-fill my power steering fluid, but want to make sure I am filling the right reservoir! The manual does not point it out, but I think it is just in fornt of and below where you put oil in the crankcase (on the right side of the engine as you look at it).

    Can someone confirm this for me?
  • rickknight1rickknight1 Member Posts: 9
    Hi Mark,
    I seem to be getting somewhere with this - slowly but surely. After dismantling the engine (it took them 3 weeks to get round to this) it appears that the number 3 piston was siezed due to no oil in the barrel. There seems to have been enough oil in the rest of them but not in this one. Very strange.......... Anyway, they say they hope to have the repair completed by Wednesday of this week (only 5 1/2 weeks so far as opposed to the 3 day initial estimate). I'll let you know if it works out, but I'm not betting on it!
    Rick.
  • markjennmarkjenn Member Posts: 1,142
    Rick, hope this works out - yes, like to know the final outcome.

    500e, sounds like you have it - on the 320, it's the gizmo below and slightly right of the oil filter. You have to pop the plastic beauty shroud slightly up to get the cap off.

    - Mark
  • steveb5steveb5 Member Posts: 1
    With Mercedes recall notice I had the dealer Barrier Mercedes in Bellevue , Washington replace the harmonic balancer on our 2000 ML320.

    Few days later, the car lost power after breaking at a stop and 3 weeks later when I was driving downhill. My parktronic isn't working since that work on the harmonic balancer.

    So I am left with two questions:

    1- Are these mere coincidence or the work wasn't done properly?
    2- Given that this is the second time we've experience bad work with this dealership, is there any place we could check on their reputation?

    Best, Steve
  • markjennmarkjenn Member Posts: 1,142
    Barrier did the same work on my ML320 a few weeks back. As I drove off the lot, I noticed one of my instrument panel backlighting bulbs was burned out. I can't see a connection between my failure and the ones you're reporting, but it makes one wonder.

    I've heard equally bad things about Smart in Seattle. I don't have a good solution for repairs that require the dealer. For routine stuff, I either do it myself or use the local gas station that has a guy who knows the ML's pertty well.

    - Mark
  • rickknight1rickknight1 Member Posts: 9
    Mark (and anyone else following this),
    You are just going to love this. Phoned MB today to ask them when my car will be ready to collect.....guess what...... not today!! (as promised). Apparently the engine has been removed from the car and sent away to a specialist (obviously MB are not specialists at their own cars). The "Specialist" has got the part on order (I presume from MB) and cannot START the work until he has the part,. There is no way on gods earth that I will ever buy another MB and when this Jaloppy is back its going straight into the nearest showroom. Bah Humbug!!">
  • rickknight1rickknight1 Member Posts: 9
    MB today have delivered the fateful blow....................The engine is dead......I'm not suprised after doing all of those 110,000 KM (68,000 Miles) in 3 and a half years. It must have been such a drain on the poor car. The solution..............they say it can be repaired at a cost of 12,000 Euros (14,400 US) or replace for 30,000 Euros (36,000 US). This now leaves me in a bit of a position. The garage that I bought the car from don't want to spend that much on either solution (obviously I think they're gonna be well out of pocket on this one) I see their point of view, but feel a bit sorry for them. So what's everyones advice? 1. Insist that the engine is repaired? 2. Insist that it is replaced with a new one? (Bit unlikely I think) 3. Let them replace the engine with one from a write off iff they can find one? All suggestions welcome and the best one wins a quart of Sangria! By The Way, If anyone knows of an ML55 AMG engine hanging around, let me know!
    Rick.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    It's not clear to me if you have some sort of warranty on the '02? It sounds like you purchased it used from the garage?

    If there's some sort of warranty, then maybe you can ask for your money back less a per mile usage fee so you can buy something else.

    Steve, Host
  • markjennmarkjenn Member Posts: 1,142
    Typically in situations like these, you find a good used engine from a wreck - this is almost always the most cost effiective solution. I'm also unclear as to whether MB or the garage is participating in some kind of warranty situation.

    - Mark
  • markjennmarkjenn Member Posts: 1,142
    Steve, I know this isn't the proper place for a bug report, but it only seems to occur in this particular forum so here goes.

    On the "left column" there is a "Helpful Links" section. Only in this ML forum, there seems to be an odd "Consumer Rating" bar in this section - it is fairly wide, so it shoves the center main column over so far that it ends up underneath the right "Inside Line" column, obsuring the the text of the forum. BTW, this erroenous "Consumer Rating" bar has a hyperlink which links to some information about the BMW M5. Latest version of IE.

    Please forward as appopriate. Again, I'm active in perhaps ten forums and this ML one is the only one I've noted the problem in.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Thanks for the comments. Our systems people are aware of the problem and are working on it.

    tidester, host
  • mark156mark156 Member Posts: 1,915
    (trying to narrow my message because
    of that intrusive advertisement)

    Rickknight1, when you say "garage",
    I don't think it has the same meaning
    as it does here in the US. A garage
    here is a local repair shop that, if
    they sold any vehicles, would be used
    and generally with no warranty.

    Hopefully you will have a positive
    outcome with your ML.

    Mark156
    2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
  • rickknight1rickknight1 Member Posts: 9
    Hi Mark,
    Sorry, yes when I said garage, I meant the dealer
    that I bought the heap from. Although they are not
    an MB dealer, they are opposite - luckily. They
    provided me with a 12 month warranty. I discussed
    this as well last night with my wife and we are of
    the opinion that a refund is in order. I'll let
    you know what occurs. (Really annoying that ad,
    isn't it). Rick.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The forum size fix is supposed to be rolled in this morning. Keep your fingers crossed.

    Steve, Host
  • markjennmarkjenn Member Posts: 1,142
    Rick, understand,sorry about the terminology misunderstanding. Yes, if you've got a 12-month written warranty, I'd be pressing the issue a bit. Generally, these are written as "repair or replace" at the shop's discretion. Since repair doesn't appear to be economical, it probably will be a situation where replace could mean replace new or replace used. Typically, the standard is to "make you whole" which means the replacement should be approximately equivalent to what you have earlier. So a good used engine might be fair all way around. I'd bet you are going to have trouble pressing for a brand new engine, although I wonder if you might be able to work out a three way agreement between you, MB, and the dealer to get you a new engine with some participation on you part. I think you want to be firm, but fair and reasonably flexible. If you go in with guns blazing, I suspect they'll just blow the whole thing off as cheaper to pay the lawyers. Good luck.

    Steve, the problem appeared gone initially, but when I went into compose mode, it returned. Thanks for your help. Edmunds rocks.

    - Mark
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Yeah, it was looking good until you had to go and post something, LOL.

    I'll report it and cross my toes this time.

    Steve, Host
  • mjlaytonmjlayton Member Posts: 1
    Hello all, new to this forum. I just got married and now own (not sure if proud or not yet) a 2001 Mercedes ML320, my wifes car going into the marriage.

    Of course, I worry about the cost to maintain this car, but then again Mercedes generally last long right?

    My question related to maintenance. She has 68,000 miles on the car, and her "double wrench" lit up, which she says means its time for maintenance. She doesnt have the book that came with the car? What might I expect the car needing for this maintenance? Oil and what else? Should I bring to a MB Dealer or private mechanic? (there are a few in my area).

    What did everyone else pay for this service?

    thanks so much in advance.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Congrats on the marriage!

    The Edmunds Maintenance Guide will tell you what needs to be done for an A service or a B service. And it'll tell what we think the service should cost.

    Steve, Host
  • mercaramercara Member Posts: 291
    Expect about $500 for the bigger service. My 1999 ML320 was fairly trouble free.
  • cctdicctdi Member Posts: 82
    Somehow I just like to drive the diesel equipped cars; the only car that I put over 45k miles was the 97 E300D. When VW’s Touareg V10 tdi came in, I wasted no time to get one and so for the E320 CDI and the Passat tdi. Now, the M is coming with the diesel(s) in 06 as 07 models; it is interesting, what is the displacement of the engine(s)? A 4.2 CDI installed in the M will create the long waiting list of the new kind buyers! :mad:
  • mbhelpmbhelp Member Posts: 1
    I am interested in adding Sat Radio to my '04 ML350, but I don't want to pay the dealer $1k to install it. Is their and after market radio that links to the existing Sat. set up on the radio???? If so where do I find it? Any help would be appreciated.
  • rockypaulrockypaul Member Posts: 104
    Considering another ML for '06 and questioned M-B about diesel.
    No straight answer if they ever will be available for NY registration.
    2 trips to FL from NY recently in premium fueled cars.
    Of course the gas price drops by 35 cents once out of NY and more as you travel south.
    But guess what?
    Diesel was 75 cents to one dollar higher than premium gas in the south.
    I have read just yesterday of the refinery problems related solely to diesel and the Louisiana huricanes but my M-B S430 4-Matic got 28.7 mpg fully loaded with people and cats and stuff and my BMW 330xi got 29.6 mpg also loaded. And these are round trip numbers.
    The diesel and its premium acquisition cost is making less and lees sense for me. I may not wait for 07.
  • merc1merc1 Member Posts: 6,081
    Certainly understandable. Those are some very impressive numbers, especially for the S430.

    I think we all often forget that German cars are very efficient when it comes to highway travel, which is what they're really made for in the first place.

    Now just think what a S420 CDI would get on the highway! That is once diesel fuel comes back down in price. If I mean.

    M
  • mark156mark156 Member Posts: 1,915
    Before you believe what the read-out is telling you about the gas mileage, put pencil to paper to see what the actual mileage is.

    I was just on a trip in my 2002 ML500 and the read-out was telling me 21 mpg but I was actually getting 18 or so. I never really checked it after all these years but the computer seems to be very optimistic. Calculate the mileage manually to get the real figure.

    Mark
    2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
  • titanstitans Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know whether there will be any changes? If the price will go up? I'm planning on buying one but I don't like to buy the first year a vehicle is redesigned.
  • cctdicctdi Member Posts: 82
    What you said in your post is so true, I do the same calculation for the mileage calculation; the trip mile number divided by the gallon number. And here are the references for those vehicles that I know so well in my daily driving( local, city and some highway)- the E320 CDI gets 28, Highlander Hybrid 24, Passat 2.L TDI 34, Touareg V10 TDI 20, E320 4matic wagon 16, E430 4matic 15, 4Runner V8 16, and I can’t remember that well for the others. Today, I filled up the CDI at $2.399 vs. $2.129 of the premium gas here in South Jersey. To my experience, the diesel should come down below the premium after April. Somehow in these past three years, the tax imposed on on-road diesel fuel increased so much, diesel was always cheaper than the regular. The tricky part from the policy makers is to tax the truckers and let them pass the cost to the people who won’t feel the pinch until the price of good increase in their shopping lists. The heating oil and off road diesel are same as the #2 diesel and cost much less, but it is illegal to pour in your car unless you use on your farmland. I am just a diesel lover, the longest car I kept was 97 300D, just like the CDI, I go to gas station every 425-450 miles. The only difference is the CDI is easy, fast, and silk smooth and I don’t detect the green smoke like the 300D, Touareg and Passat TDI in cold early morning starting! E420 CDI 4matic wagon is my dream car, I do wish it gets on this shore!
  • bills4bills4 Member Posts: 1
    Hi. My husband drives a ML320 and is wondering if there is power steering fluid in the car and if so, where is the indicator and place to fill it? He is trying to diagnose a noise that occured when he started the car up this morning. The noise went away after awhile. The car is a 2001 model with about 90,000 miles.
  • markjennmarkjenn Member Posts: 1,142
    The power steering pump is at the right front of the engine as you face it with the hood open, near the oil filter. You have to pop up the plastic engine cover at the corner to get to the cap. The cap has a dipstick.

    - Mark
  • atr7277atr7277 Member Posts: 1
    Hi..
    I am thinking about purchasing a 2000 or 2001 ML. I have been hearing alot of bad things about the car (electrical problems, transmission, etc.) Could anybody tell me if they recommend the vehicle, or should I consider something else.
    Thanks for your Help!!
    ~Kelly
  • mark156mark156 Member Posts: 1,915
    Kelly, I'm not a mechanical person per se, but if you are looking for a used ML, go for a 2002 or newer.

    2002 was the year that the ML was "refreshened" with a new front bumper and headlights, turning signals on the mirrors, refreshened tail-light covers and rear bumper update.

    The air conditioner dash controls are better as is the location of the power window switches on the console. In 2002, Mercedes added rear air conditioner vents for the second row.

    My 2002 ML500 has never left me stranded and I'm approaching 50,000 miles. It has been a really good vehicle. I'm getting ready to trade as I usually change out my "traveling" vehicle every 3-4 years. I would consider a new 2006 ML but they don't offer a third seat like I have in my 2002. And, I don't want an R-class, to "van-ish".

    I have not had any problems with my transmission or any electrical problems. I have other very minor issues like the rear cupholder breaking, light behind the speedometer went out, wrinkle in the console cover, a tailgate latch, washer fluid container leak (twice) and the black piece under the front bumper came loose twice.... EVERYTHING was fixed under warranty and have had no issues in a long time.

    Mark
    2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
  • jrynnjrynn Member Posts: 162
    If you had to take EITHER the upgraded Harmon Kardon sound system @$1080 or the MB-NAV system @$1250, which would you take and why?

    Is the upgraded stereo THAT much better than the stock stereo? Is the MB-NAV now user friendly enough to be useful?
  • johnp5johnp5 Member Posts: 4
    This is my first time on this site. Hopefully, someone out there can help me. I have a 2004 ML500 with 18,000 miles and Mercedes-Benz Manhattan is stating that I must replace the brake pads and rotors for $1,300.00. It seems rather early in the life of the vehicle to be performing such an extensive repair. Any thoughts? Thanks.
  • markjennmarkjenn Member Posts: 1,142
    Hi John.

    First thing I'd do is confirm how much brake pad you have left. Don't take the dealer's word for this.

    If you get under the car with a flashlight, it's very easy to see how much pad is left, by shining a light into the caliper from the plane of the wheel. (Turning the wheels full lock may help on the fronts.) As long as you can see a groove still remaining in the pad, then you're within spec. The dealers are generally very aggressive in pitching a brake job when the pads may be only 60% worn or so. Also, if there is no brake warning light (the pads have sensors that illuminate a warning light when they get near replacement time), that's usually a good indication that they're still okay.

    Typically, the front wear is heavier than the rear, although not always. My guess is that with 18K and unless you're really hard on brakes, you'll find that you have about 40% of your fronts left and well over half of your rears. Which means you probably can go onto about 30K or 35K on the fronts, and 50K on the rears.

    If you do need pads, dealers are also extremely aggressive about recommending new rotors. Because the rotors have very little extra "meat", they don't want to machine rotors anymore, so they just recommend new rotors as a matter of course. In reality, your rotors are probably within spec and unless visibly grooved, you can probably fit new pads and not do a thing to rotors. Many of us are getting 100K miles out of rotors this way without any squealing problems.

    Now the dealer may not be willing to do brakes without replacing rotors. They'll say that it won't be safe, or won't meet spec, or will always squeal. If they insist on rotor replacement, then I'd push for having it done under warranty as getting 18K out of a rotor can be considered a defect in materials. Some folks have even managed to get early pad replacement done under warranty, but this is a harder push.

    If you can't get MB to cover anything, I'd recommend you find a good independent garage that knows Mercedes to give your business to and only go to the dealer for warranty work. Finding someone who will work with you to find lower cost solutions is key to owning a MB at something approaching reasonable cost. My experience is that MB dealers consider $1300 spent every 18K miles on brakes is just "routine maintenance costs". They even gave me a dirty look when I suggested this was too high, like I was being a cheapskate or something. Which is one reason, I just traded my ML yesterday. Absolutely loved the truck, but it just was too expensive to keep it running.
  • mark156mark156 Member Posts: 1,915
    Markjenn, what did you get?

    I picked up a 2006 Land Rover LR3 HSE, Java Black Pearlescent with Alpaca beige leather, Cold package, Heavy duty package... added a wood dash and thick black rubber mats on all three rows.

    I liked my 2002 ML500 (48,700 miles) but it was just about out of warranty and I was ready for something else.

    The Land Rover has a 4 yr. 50K warranty that incudes all maintenance... My ML had that but Mercedes doesn't offer that anymore. Also, my local Mercedes dealer doesn't offer loaner cars. I made sure that the Land Rover did and my salesman said "sure".

    I hope my luck with the Land Rover is good, I just didn't want a Mercedes this time, especially, for the lack of included service and no loaner cars.

    Mark
    2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
  • markjennmarkjenn Member Posts: 1,142
    I took a breather from pricey and fussy Euro makes and went with the milk toast SUV: Honda Pilot.

    - Mark
  • johnp5johnp5 Member Posts: 4
    Mark,

    Thank you very much for your response. It gives me some good insights. Unfortunately, I did succumb to the "we won't release your car to you because it is not safe" argument from the dealer, and paid the nearly-$1,500.00 cost.

    Good luck with your new purchase.

    Regards,
    John
  • mark156mark156 Member Posts: 1,915
    John, the same thing happened to me with my 2002 ML500. I took my ML in the shop for service and they told me that my rear brakes were needing replacement; I had 18,000 miles on it. Since I was about to go on a driving trip, I let them do it at a cost of about $250. Apparently, it didn't need rotors.

    Then at about 26,000 miles, while I had the ML in for service, they wanted to replace the front brakes, I said no. I figured that is what the "brake pad" replacement light is for.

    Well, what do you know, I waited until 46,000 miles to replace the front brakes (and rear). The light never came on. The service tech couldn't believe I never had the pads replaced. He asked me if I had them replaced by another shop and I said no. I told him that I was waiting for the light to come on. He didn't like that.

    Since the dealer, in my opinion, tried to make me spend money WAY to early, I decided when the time came, they would NOT get my business. I had a private shop do it, replacing all pads, rotors and brake fluid at the cost of $1,100.

    Next time, just wait until the light comes on. Always question the service guy, they are not their for your interest. Sure, they can be nice and all, but hold on to your wallet! :surprise:

    Mark :)
    2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
  • markjennmarkjenn Member Posts: 1,142
    John, I did the same thing the first time the dealer recommended new brakes. I think it was at 20K. No big deal.

    They are very subtle with their tactics to get you to perform excessive service - they'll have the service techs write things in the work order in all caps like "CAR IS NOT CURRENTLY SAFE TO DRIVE", which to a new owner is pretty intimindating. And who wants to have a service record for the vehicle which shows you ignored such advice?

    In their weak defense, they will argue that the car is serviced so infrequently that if the pads are more than half worn, there is some risk that they may be under spec before the next service visit. This reflects an attitude of "Cost is unimportant to our customers and the inconvenience of having to schedule an extra service visit between routine visits is." Which is probably true for some, but not me.

    - Mark
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I wonder if a complaint to your local consumer affairs office or attorney general is in order. My guess is that a mechanic in the next block would ok the car to drive for another few thousand miles, even if the brakes are nearing their expected life.

    This tactic has an odor of bill padding to it.

    I wonder what their response would be if you said, ok. let's tow it to Midas and get a second opinion?

    Steve, Host
  • jrynnjrynn Member Posts: 162
    If it's 200 inches long, then Edmunds ought to note that it's a fancy competitor to the Suburban/Expedition, not to the Range Rober/Cayenne.
  • 3screwsloose3screwsloose Member Posts: 116
    Stop thinking about it, or your dreams may turn into nightmares. Or don't listen to me, just get a copy of Consumer Reports and take a look at their auto issue and the reliability of the ML. You should consider something else after reading what they say.
  • 3screwsloose3screwsloose Member Posts: 116
    There are NO diesels in the pipeline for the forseeable future. 3.5L V6, or 5.0 V8 - a higher performance V8 is due, but certainly not an economy model.
  • 3screwsloose3screwsloose Member Posts: 116
    The ML has a campaign on the power steering return hose and clamp at the radiator. It's a lifetime thing. If you loose p/s fluid by the hose blowing off the radiator cooler pipe, you will not be able to steer the car fast enough to avoid an accident. NO KIDDING! The fluid can be just low, but check the hose for dampness and swelling. Or take it to a dealer and have them check it. This is VERY important - not only for you, but those you may hit when you cannot steer. Of course, there are other places the fluid can leak - the steering rack, or the reservoir above the pump. Please be careful, you can't steer, it gets really hard to turn the wheel. If you are on the highway at speed it will get very scary.
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