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Comments
Should you listen to either the Bose or base system, make sure the bass eq setting is at detent or left of it. If you try to get "extra" bass by boosting it, it will sound *extremely* flabby. Too bad you're not in the LA area. One of our listers did a totally souped up audio system on his ML and it's supposed to sound awesome. I'm on the borderline of yanking the fronts and throwing in ADS 336im's. On the one hand, my base system sounds adequate and there is usually so much noise in a car environment that I shouldn't bother; on the other, when I play a Sarah McLachlan CD, it sounds a muddy :-P
You didn't say where you lived, but when I shopped for mine, I went to the extreme of trying to find a salesman I was comfortable with and visited all the dealers in the Boston area. Ended up w/ Jerry Pillari at Clair and am happy I did shop that way. At any rate, that's too far in the future. Let us know how your test drives turn out and if you have any questions on ML vs. MDX vs. X5 vs. anything. A lot of us have done comparison drives.
Carbon: the screws are torx and the rivets are plastic with a separate piece that's inserted in the middle after the rivet is put in place, to cause the inserted part of the rivet to expand. I haven't seen anything exactly like it before. The rivets are completely reusable but somewhat fragile. Tools would be a long skinny needle nose pliers and driver with an appropriate torx tip. The coolest thing is the felt tape they provided -- it's about .25" thick and has adhesive backing.
Steve: FWIW Re the Bose system. I opted to forego the Bose system as I didn't like the sound quality. I found the standard hifi system to provide adequate power and be without the Bose subwoofer (which is a plus IMO). I only wish that in the over-pondered and under-thought MCS system they'd have permitted (or even included) a DSP option and more than bass treble fader balance array of adjustments.
Thanks
Jamie
Does anyone have a pointer to a dealer who is willing to discount the mb extended warranty?
The phone is $400 and the kit is $200. But anyhing is cheaper than the MB Phone.
Robert
Thanks, Danny. It does look a little naked w/o the M4 pkg's skidplate. :-P
Must be the new year....
Thanks in advance.
This is just the searchable archive for the M-Class Mailing List. If you click on that link, you'll see how to join.
Pete
Also, Drew: a while back, there was a post for a tool to help install your wheels. It was a piece of stainless steel, around $30 that helped line up the bolts. Do you have the web address for this?
I too experience the refueling difficulties you have mentioned on my Y2k ML320.
It seems as though I can never get the fuel needle to register at full. I only use
self serve stations here in CA. While filling the tank, the gas hose will click off with
about 2 gallons to go. It requires at least 4-5 more squeezes to get the tank truely full.
I have just assumed this to mean that MBZ has spec'd in a very narrow funnel with no place for air to escape which causes a back up near the end of refueling.
This must be one more part that the Germans allowed Alabama to spec in.
Also, I noticed that the needle moves stays in one position, and when I start the truck again, it's different completely different!
You have to make sure your replacement was made around Feb.2000. With previous versions, the sensor would get corroded by gas additives.
Wally
Is this a sign that I have the FSU problem.
Robert
I now have 2200 miles and I still get the low pitched squeal from the front and a high pitched one from the rear. This is almost constant now and has gotten much worse since the snow over the past week.
I heard of people having rotors reglazed or even replaced along with new pads but werent happy with softer feeling on brake pedal. What is the best solution.? My 98 Ml320 never made a noise in 44K.
Thanks for your input.
What I remember is that people would fill up and it would not go to full, or it would drop really quickly from full to 1/4 or 1/2. I've never heard anyone mention the empty light would come on.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1432089&a=10733483
Anyway, have some questions regarding your rear bumper guard - where did you get it and did you install it yourself... was it easy... how long did it take... what did it fasten to?
Thanks - Frank
Do I just use a touch up paint to fix that or do I need something else?
dt77
When I was with my ML in LA, I had also isloated 'squeaking' which came from the driver's side rubber door seal with the door opening seals. Confirmed by sticking my finger in the gap with door closed and the noise it made was clearly replicated. Some of you may have heard noises you hate and maybe you can look there
I miss my ML.
dt77
THe only thing I have about it is I wish it were more 'muscular' like the Manik A bar I have (it's pretty thick).
The waag rear guard attaches with bolts - contrary to what I thought before : rear hitch attachment.
dt77
http://fullspeed.to/ml
sorry, i must be smokin crack. I meant rear bumper guard.
dt77
owner-m-class@moab.off-road.com
E-mail them at that address to subscibe.
I have a MY00 ML320 with 7,000 miles and the only problem I experienced was a door actuator that didn't like the extreme cold temperatures (below 10 degrees (f)), but that was fixed and I'm trouble free again. I also tow a small boat and utility trailer with no problem. I had far more problems with my domestic cars then I experienced with my 'first' MB vehicle and I'm sold on their quality.
If you need a safe SUV look no further, the ML is rated number 1 in safety for SUV's As I've said before, I normally buy a vehicle and start looking for something new in 6 months, as I get bored with them easily, not so with this vehicle. I see me keeping this one 4-5 years before swaping (my wife said she wants to see that before she believes it), I love this vehicle more each time I drive it.
What ever your decision enjoy!!!
Thanks for your time & the detail info. I set up an appointment with the dealer this coming Monday to go through all the minor stuff.
Everything is minor except the rear end vibration when I do a sharp left or right turn from stop. I mention it to the dealer early on & he said is normal. I do not agree with him since I had a jeep & a land rover b4 and they didn't have this problem. But the dealer agree to check it out. My question is, is this a recall on this known problem or how can I force the dealer to fix the vibration problem?
As of the extended warranty, I purchased the 5 yrs & up to 100k miles warranty form National Auto Care (I hope it's good) for $1500, Zero deductible. I hope it helps in the furture. Any one heard of the National Auto Care Company? Any good? Once again happy new year every 1. Thanks again Thor3
Guess that's also good news and means we all are having few, if any, problems with our ML's
Andrew de Jong, The Netherlands, Europe
Thanks.
the current cars have the 5.5L V8 normally aspirated. They retain the 3v per
cylinder. I got to ride in an ml55 before I came back here and it was pretty
quick for such a heavy car."
Robert
To answer your question (is there a recall for the rear end lockup/gowning noise...) No there is no recall but it is a warranty item. Many dealers have replaced the differential with the newer version gear ratio that resolves said (NORMAL - NOT!!) binding. If your dealer is ignorant of this make him/her aware that you have been informed by other owners of same vehicle and that there was a fix which required the new gearing in the replacement units.
As I said earlier - you need to make sure each and every complaint is documented - if they don't fix it or put "no problem found" you at least have it in writing for when it becomes an issue in the future.
The rear end vibration/binding may be felt thru the steering wheel as well so you may want to add to your complaint that you feel the front binding as well... tell them it is hard to tell but it acts like a 4 wheel drive that has its hubs locked on dry pavement when turning sharply.
You need to see the past warranty history so you know what has been done already. As I said earlier you need to know the problem areas that have been improved with new components... even if your vehicle is not demonstrating/experiencing a problem now but Mercedes has made newer components you need to complain to get new components... Just as I stated that the door latches have been upgraded a couple of times - even if your doors shut OK you may want the newer latches that have the "latest engineering." Same goes for fuel pump, fuel sender, suspension bushings, steering pump....
Bottom line you need a dealer and a technician that wants to "look" for all of these mentioned changes and do the replacements. I've found two such dealers EuroMotorCars in Bethesda MD and AutoHaus MB in Pompano Beach FL... both have great Techs that will comb the ML over for such mods. It helps if you make the general comments on the repair order - such as - hear a high pitched whine on occasions from rear of vehicle... sounds like fuel pump... gas gauge reads inaccurate at times... may not read full when full or is inaccurate...
There are many ways to make complaints to get MB Techs to look at and repair items because they already know MB has new parts for many of the mentioned items. Many times, the Techs will look at the complaints on the Repair Order and will immediately order the newest renditions. They will install them without documenting the actual complaint because they already know these are well documented ML problems and don't want to waist time trying to duplicate them. As long as MB has a newer part # that supersedes the one being replaced on your 1998 (pretty good chance of this) it will be no issue...
This is why it is very important to read as many old posts on this and any other ML forum and write down the problems that you see reoccuring and then have the device Facility write these items down on the repair order. I guaranty that you will see new components placed on the vehicle. If not find another dealer or share with us where you are located and I'm sure someone will recommend the best dealer in your area.
I have soo much more to say but can't keep typing but I hope you get my drift - MB owes it to you while under warranty to bring you vehicle up to the latest spec for each specific issue... you need to get this done prior to warranty expiration. The good news is if the dealer replaces something... such as door lock actuators and they fail again after warranty you may get Factory warranty coverage anyway due to a parts warranty within a specified period of time... so you have nothing to loose.... but get the old history so you know what has been done already - or at least was done once...serveral items have had several new fixes... just because a repair was done once does not mean you have the latest new parts. For example there have been at least 4 fuel level senders over the past 1.5 years....
Good luck - Frank
Thanks - Frank
This would sure be exciting if so.....
It makes sense...look at the C32. Nice Lysholm supercharger...
MB has higher torque/less HP than say a BMW because of the longer stroke and the 3 valves per cylinder. This was done (one of the reasons) to achieve ULEV emmissions status. MB is adding the supercharger to make up for the lost power.
So what is going to result is more horsepower AND ULEV status. He said AMG accross the line will get the supercharger, so I am assuming the ML55 too. He said the NEXT version of the AMG engine. He did not say when this new engine would appear, 2002...03...04.
Result: Environmentally friendly rockets.
I didnt get to ride in the car nor did he, as it is not out yet. He did however drive the PT Turbo, which was quite nice.
Robert
Thanks for your help.