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out of warranty. Alternatively, our 2000 ML320 just had a hose failure on a cold morning (about 20 F), and that hose cost about $50/part and $50/labor at a non-dealer shop.
-Kevin
-Kevin
-Kevin
www.mercedesshop.com
Struts all the way around shipped to your door will be about $400; any good idenpendent shop should be able to install for $80 an anxle and then ake to the dealer for an aligment for about the $230; no other shop will have the right tools to due a correct alignment.
-Kevin
-Kevin
-Kevin
-Kevin
Get power steering fluid for it. Then you'll need to drain the ATF. Fill with fluid and work the steering wheel back and forth to purge the air out. Refill the resevoir as needed. When the air is gone & the fluid is full the gringing sound will stop.
My MB Operators Manual specifically listed Dextron 1103 ATF and to verify this, I called a service rep and yes he says that is what is used.....he had no idea why MB uses ATF versus power steering fluid.
So, all is well with your steering now?
So, just so I know, do you have Mclass 320 and does your manual specifiy ATF?
Thanks.
We released the parking lock by inserting a pencil into the opening behing the flap below the D position on the gear indicator and pressed down.Lucky I had my manual with me or I might still be there now.The problem was fixed by a top Auto Electrician who new the answer by saying ,you need a new stoplight switch.Cost all up $80.00.Mercedes Benz reckoned it was a damaged nut under the gear lever All up cost $1900.00
My problem now is that the vehicle will run for about 60-70 ks' and cut out completely. a not pleasant experience if you are overtaking someone at 100 kilometres an hour.The motor will not start. If left for 20 minutes starting is as normal.I will get Mercedes Benz Service dept. to put it on the computer check but would really appreciate it if someone could help me with this.
Thank You Jabiru1
Coming off the line, if I accellerate slowly, there is no problem. If I accellerate with slighly more juice I hear and feel a slight "crump" (similar to running over a soda can) within the first half-revolution of my wheels, and then all is normal. If I accellerate with lots of juice, then I get the same "crump". Comes from the front of the truck.
I do not get a crump in reverse.
This has gone on for three months without any sign of worsening, or self-repairing.
I've looked at the edmunds boards with no luck.
Thanks in advance.
I have a 2002 Mercedes ML320. I've just shipped my SUV from San Francisco to New York City. It appears that as I am driving down the street, I hear some noise but it's like putting a playing card on the wheel of a bicycle but more like a metal knock and you can hear it. Anyway, when I had the car on the rack, we noticed that a long cable was hanging along the side of the crank shaft. What is that cable and do you believe that the transportation broke something that was holding that cable in place. How should this be fixed? Any help is appreciated. It's really cold out here in New York City.
Sincerely,
Erwin
I have heard that a mercedes isn't "broken in" until after 50K and that I will die before it does and that mileage doesn't apply to mercedes and BMW. Heard this from the dealer and other owners.
Question is: Will I be investing in a MAJOR problem based on the mileage? :confuse:
A. Hollobon
you have every symptom of a shot pump. never let your fuel get below the 1/8 level
What we did: We invested in a code reader (bought it at Checkers for $129 with a $30 rebate). The reader showed codes which pointed to the Crandkshaft Positioning Sensor which cause the misfire codes, etc. and in turn turned the computer/engine off. Buying the code reader was well worth it the investment!
Hello all, im looking for a newer car. I have been eyeing the 2000 Mercedes-Benz M-Class ML320, i have seen quite a few with what looks like an incredibly low price, Prices ranging from $8000 to $12000.
I absolutely love the look of this vehicle, but i have no idea how to go about looking for one used.
Before asking anything specific about this vehicle post what my main concern is first off.
Main concern, will i be able to keep up the maintenance on this vehicle given my current Earnings. I earn roughly 38000 a year and live alone, if i had to guess how much money will be on hand for normal wear and tear i would have to say approximately 2000 - 4000 a year.
Is it possible for me to keep up with that amount, i love this vehicle, but if keeping it in excellent running condition means i will likely be spending alot more i may have to reconsider.
This is all for now as depending on the answer i may not need to bug you guys much more.
Thanks in advance, any and all advice will be greatly appreciated.
1) See if you can buy an extended service contract whether from the dealer
or online. If you buy it online, that won't kick in for 30 days and 1,000 miles.
2) My rule of thumb is for every 1,000 miles that you drive expect to spend
$ 100 for routine upkeep and repairs on this or any other moderate luxury/premium type vehicle. The service and upkeep on this should be cheaper than on the Porsche SUV.
3) If the one you're buying has Dunlop tires (which were standard on mine), buy
a new set of some other brand with a UTQG rating of over 500. The Dunlop tires
get only about 20,000 to 30,000 miles. You also must buy the exact same tire
for all 4 tires so you can't mix brands such as Goodyear with Michelin because
of the AWD. It has to be the same brand, the same tire.
4) Brakes seem to wear fast. Dealer recommends that rotors always be replaced.
An independent shop told me "mostly yes, but not always" on rotors. Brakes are not covered on extended service plans.
5) Oil changes: Fortunately, only every 10,500 miles. Simple oil change at MB
dealer is about $ 200, major oil change next 10.5K miles from MB dealer is about $400. Why so high? The MB dealer checks everything plus using Mobil1 synthetic for I think between 7 and 8 quarts. I got a quote from an independent dealer about 20% to 25% less, so I'll probably try the independent next time, since I'm out of regular warranty.
6) I have avoided 2 possible accidents since I've had my ML350 that I would not
have been able to avoid with my prior SUV vehicle. 2 separate people pulled out on
me from a side street when I had the right of way on the same stretch of highway
and I was able to take evasive action to avoid a collision (On one I had to cross
the center line to avoid an elderly woman driving a van who was making a left hand turn but she was blocking oncoming traffic).
7) I don't know where you live but (assuming that you have the right set of tires)
these MLs are great in snow. If I lived in the South, I likely would not buy an ML
nor any other 4 WD/allwheel drive/SUV, with the price of gas what it is today.
8) The power steering hose has a tendency to "pop out". It happened to me
once while backing out of the driveway and was covered under original warranty.
9) MLs are great for long highway trips.
10) I do have some other mechanical issues with my ML, which my extended
service plan mostly covered.
Hope this helps you. I suspect that like other SUVs that there are some real bargains now available if you shop around such as the Edmunds used vehicles list.
Does this vehicle have a 5 speed transmission? What would be a fair price for this vehicle in excellent condition? I just saw one similar to this one sold on eBAy for $ 15,400 with even lower mileage. I am not sure what features were optional on this model, but this one has navigation, sunroof, leather seats, and heated power seats,
i am also selling mine $15k.... i live 1.5 miles away from work, but it has 67k ., dont need it anymore.,
you have to be carefull when shopping and comparing prices.... benz is known for its packages., so while 2 identical benz will be selling for $1-2k appart., check the options., for example i had a buyer call me claiming that he could get the SAME car for $13k., so i said go ahead., bring it to me and ill give you $500 if we have the same options...
his did not have dual power seats, nor did it have teleaid, it was teleaid "ready"... it also did not have the little thingy near the rear view mirror that tells you how much mpg you are getting or how many miles you have before you go empty., nor did his side mirror turn down when he put it in reverse... couple of other things that i cant remember.... and oh., it had an obvious cover up paint job to either make it look newer or to hide damage...
all in all., its a great car,. maintenance isnt to bad., ill be replacing a window regulator this weekend (myself)
it has power,. it responds when you hit the accelerator., its a beast of a suv.,
"2000 Mercedes-Benz M-Class ML320, i have seen quite a few with what looks like an incredibly low price, Prices ranging from $8000 to $12000"
if thats the price range you are looking at., then dont get a 200 ml320,. get a 2003+ ml350., the 320 is under powered, ., you can get a 350 for $1000 more than a 320!
mile away from home. While stopped at the light, I shifted it back
to park, revved it a litte, and then back to drive. It ran normal the rest of the
day. The fuel level was between 1/4th and 1/2 of the tank. I've always used premium since I've had it.
Yes. I think the 06s went to the 7 speed.
Prices are a little tricky. For example, check out the ML 350s priced in
the Chicago area with between 35K to 50K miles. Their retail asking prices
vary from $ 15,000 to $ 21,000 at dealers (obviously if certified at a MB dealer
they're higher). $ 6,000 is a large differential when it should be more like $ 1,000
to $ 2,000 apart for this vehicle regardless of options.
Navigation was optional on the ML 350 and standard on the ML 500.
Running boards were optional. 3rd row fold down seats were optional.
I've tried to be objective and hope that this is helpful.
Also bear in mind that some dealers employees strip "small" stuff out of
these vehicles. When I got mine used there were no floor mats, the mercedes
shifter ball with emblem was gone, even the first aid kit was gone and the salesman
took his CD placement holder from his demo and put his in my vehicle as mine
was also missing. The gas tank holds just over 22 gallons so try to get the
seller to fill that although you may only get a $ 20 gas card (Mine was $ 10
gas card but that was the good old days when premium was $ 2.29 a gallon).
Also, try to get both keys. The dealership had to go on a hunt for the second
key which took about a half-hour extra til they found it. Lastly, this has a space
save spare underneath the back. Some dealers also hijack the space saver
so bring a drop cloth with to get underneath to make sure that it's there.
Also- what are the advantages of getting 4 tires at the dealer Vs. Big `O` tires ,etc..
Thanks in advance for your input,
Alex
Mine lasted 25000 to 27000 miles, and I had several blowouts in
2 or 3 of those tires so the Dunlops on the vehicle weren't all in the
same shape. Two were still good, 1 was OK but starting to go and the
last was completely shot.
Last week, I finally decided to get all 4 Dunlops replaced with
Continental Cross Contact LX. These have a 680 TQ rating
with 65K warranty. These cost about $ 800 for everything with install,
replacement certificates, taxes and balancing (before modest trade-in
discount on the remaining good Dunlop tires). But, these Continental
tires should last 5 or 6 years (and hopefully no more blowouts).
Continental is running a GPS Navigation unit promotion through 11/02/08
so I'll also be getting a Navigation system in the mail for buying the 4 tires.
Buying tires at the dealership means that you'll likely pay more
than at every tire store. My tires were purchased from Discount Tires
but Tire Rack may also be feasible for you.
I purchased the 2005 ML350 special Edition on Aug. 16, 2008. It is a certified vehicle, however, MB was suppose to complete a 60 point inspection before they put the car up for sale. According to a carfax report, nothing was ever check out from the last person who turned the car in from their lease. I have had nothing but one problem after another. Within the first week, the oil light went on as if I needed an oil change. Like I said before, this should have been done already. I brought it to the dealership and they made me pay $117 for an oil change.
A week later, the oil light went on again but suddenly turned off. About a month later, it turned back on so I took it back in. The oil was already low and needed another quart to be added. Then there was a loud groining noise coming from the engine. I took the car in and as it turns out, my steering fluid was never replaced and it was bone dry, therefore, the steering pump broke and needed to be replaced. The torsion bars under the car were also busted and needed to be replaced. The electricl inside the gages was bad as well. The lights went out.
Shortly after, my door locks quit locking and the windows refused to roll up. The motor for both was broken and needed to be replaced. As you can see, I have a huge headache with this vehicle and I am even more unsatisfied with the dealership where I purchased it.
skipped the actual MB certification. I would get everything checked over by another competent MB dealer, even if it costs you $ 500 more, ascertain what else is wrong and not within normal readings and get it fixed before the original 4 yrs 50K warranty runs out and also before the one year certified coverage runs out. If it will take more than a day for repairs, ask for a loaner. MB certified vehicles typically
cost about $ 2,000 to $ 4,000 more than comparable mileage non-certified
identical models. You paid for the extra reliability.
You didn't say what your mileage reading, was but since it is a very expensive
part to repair, it might also be worth having the transmission checked, if you
are over 40K.
45 days before the regular warranty runs out, think about getting an extended service plan if you're going to keep it for at least 3 or 4 yrs. I've already saved more money than it would have cost me for my out-of-warranty work than without the extended coverage.
Can anyone suggest a name and source for such a manual?
Thanks,
Rennman