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Took it to the dealer but they found nothing - like an idiot didn't have them test drive it.
I still have only 700 miles on it. But basically, it seems like the first tiny pressure to the pedal does nothing at all...
There's a dealer (I think in TX) that basically has them at just above cost and ships free for around $120. www.mazdastuff.com (mods, not sure if I can post the name or not)
The '05 part is a different part number than previous years, though priced the same.
Supposedly the Ford part is the same as it's not labeled Ford or anything. Also a couple of internet sites has them for around $100.
I got mine thru the dealer, which had a 15% off coupon and I also had a Mazda gift certificate for $50 (which I couldn't use on the internet dealer), so ended up that way.
BTW. the part No. for the Dark Flint is:
EF91-68-34XA-66 TONNEAU COVER, DARK FLINT
My .02..
I'm trying to find out what the module is, and if it can be ordered as a part. My dealer's part guy couldn't find it, but he would need a VIN that has it to start. (I might give him one from mazda's site...)
The new Ford's are now using Powercode. Anyone with this info by any chance ? If it's a module to plug in, I would pay more for it than buy an aftermarket one...
TIA.
http://www.partscheap.com/forda.htm
Steve, Host
Or they all are trying to rip customers off. :shades:
Steve, Host
K&N Air Filters, bolt-on power?
and
Gas Saving Gizmos & Gadgets
For air boxes (not filters), check out Breathe Easy: Int. & Exh. Headers + Mufflers and Pipes.
Steve, Host
steve_, "Aftermarket for 2005 SE-R Spec V" #9, 14 Jul 2005 5:11 pm
Hopefully that SEMA link in my post will start working again shortly.
Steve, Host
Any other changes I have missed?
05 Trib V6 with 12k on the clock.
Excellent/Good/Bad?
However after doing a bit of research on their ATCC, I feel a bit more comfortable and find that the new system may be better than the older manual system:
1- The system is running in a locked 4WD (50/50 locked?) when start up until a certain minimum speed (not sure when it switches over to 2WD - from gear 2?)
2- It is running as a 2WD from a certain minimum speed (from gear 2?) until the system decide to engage 4WD (variable torque distribution depending on the situation - probably using a multi-plate clutch) BEFORE the front wheels slip (not sure how the system detects this but apparently via many inputs: throttle, wheels' speed, etc.).
3- Not sure when the system will switch back to 2WD (when the front wheels and the rear wheels travel at the same speed?)
3- The system will switch to a locked 4WD driving mode (50/50 ?) IF it found that the 2WD to 4WD switching hapens too often to prevent system overheating.
4- 4WD will be disengaged when the system overheats (should not happens if the system works properly?)
5- When the system overheat it will run in 2WD and will function again when it cool down enough.
I would feel very comfortable with this system if it works as I have just described (except for missing of 4WD low but that is a different story).
Can someone knows the Tribute/Escape or work on the Tribute/Escape comment on this?
Thanks.
Following up on a noise in the front end, I took the car to the dealer and was told I need: the "rack and pinion, tie rod ends, front pads and rotors replaced; an alignment, and new tires;" plus assorted other work unrelated to the front end. I have to wonder how much of this work is necessary. :confuse:
My biggest gripe with the vehicle now? An interior that sounds like I have filled it with milk and Rice Krispees, or however you spell it. Otherwise, not a bad vehicle. The 2.3 at just over 5000 miles, following very careful break in, is starting to feel its oats. There's far more power now climbing a couple of the interstate 'mountains' near here.
Two weeks ago we drove to Paris (France) towing a 1000 kg caravan. Driving 100 km/h the motor ran 5000 rpm, a little uphill on the motorway. I heard a strange, ticking sound. Better slow down I tought: driving 80 km/h and 400 rpm the noise didnt dissappear. After another 5 km there was a place for a safe stop, there I phoned for assistance.
A french monteur called it a "grande problem", the Trib on transport back to Holland and we got alternative transport: in a Volkswagen Touran I towed the caravan one day later to Paris and our holiday could start.
Louvre, Eiffeltower, Montmartre etc. Real nice.
Now the Trib is back, my dealer found a damaged crankshaft, the ......bearings (I dont know the word for the connection from piston to crancshaft) were found back in little pieces. The only way to get this kind of damage is to run a motor without oil, but oil was on max level.
So far my Trib experience.
Anyone with this kind of problem? Bad buy or just bad luck and after repair no problem any more?
It pays to get a second opinion...
After consulting several mechanics, it was clear problems like this were not typical. I had one look at the car: nothing wrong with the rack and pinion that a little spray lubricant on the knuckle wouldn't take care of; no problems with the tie rod ends; the front pads and rotors were in good condition; and no need for the other assortment of work they recommended. The only work the dealer recommended worth doing was the tires and an alignment, both of which I planned to do before the northeast winter was upon me.
...this dealer won't get the job, or ever sell me another car.
I hope anyone out there has had the same problem and what you have done to fix this. I really would appreciate it.
Thanks,
joe_2476
Thanks,
Also I have been experiencing a tapping noise. I noticed it about at 15-20k miles. You can hear it when your in neutral with the ac on, turn off the ac and the noise kinda goes away for a bit then comes back but not as loud. I noticed that when you press on the clutch the tapping noise goes away. I brought it to MAZDA and they said they couldn't hear the noise.
Another issue I had was with the clutch squeaking every time I pressed on it. Brougth it to Mazda and they stated they had to replace the clutch. The squeaked did not totally go away, just can barely hear the squeak, although it was alot better and not as noticeable. It still squeaks and it seems like it's getting a bit louder but at a very slow rate.
Is there anyone that is having or had the same issues?
Please reply and let me know what was done to fix it and or recommendations. Any help is greatly appreciated.
I was driving down the road, I had recently gave it a bit of gas to get out of a drveway, nothing too dramatice tho. As I pulled to a stoplight my tribue died. It would not start back up, sounded like it wanted to but just could not. So we took it to a repair shop and the did a diagnostic on it and that was fine, and the compression test showed a little high, but they could not find anything reasonable wrong with it. They added new plugs and wires and then when trying to get it started it backfired on them.
After a lot of thinking and tinkering and MONEY, they took off the oil pan and discovered the crankshaft had some damage to it. they are talking a whole rebuild or putting in another engin. I have had this SUV for a year and a half and kelp up on the maitnence. When I took it itno a place to get the oil changed last January I had them check the plugs, they said they were fine and would not need to be replaced until 100 thousand mile. Well has 75000 right now and the machanic is telling me the plugs were beying damaged. I am going to look into this a bit further.
As for mileage....well, wish it were better. I do about 21 mpg in my normal local running around. The trip last night got me 25 mpg. I have yet to take a long interstate trip. I'll do that going to Fla next month. I am assuming I'll see about 28.
I finally solved the horrid doors-in-the-openings creaking by applying Armor All. The silicone sprays just did not do the trick.
I'm still thinking Mazda5 though. I might regret it if I do it. I am liking the Tribute more and more. I hauled home a 32 inch tv last week, in the box, and it fit just fine. Ended up buying an identical set last night, but this time I had them take it out of the box to make it easier to get into the house, and it fit behind the back seat with plenty of room to spare.
Diagnose: the oil-pump gave up and the sensor didn't work.
(If the sensor should have worked properly and the warninglight "oilpressure low" flashed on it would have been too late anyway!)
:-) Driving my Tribby again :-)
but the engine engines fine (except for a "Whirring " type noise from under the hood.). Just prior to this the overdrive light had come on and the oil light was flickering a few days before (oil is up to the level and clean, tranny fluid the same). When the car is cold I can put into drive and have power to the wheels (I did not drive though, for fear of wrecking something). It's in shop right now but I would like to give them and idea of what is wrong with it before they go straight into the transmission. Any ideas? Thanks.
I can't tell you how much I'm hating this car. Ever since I bought it in 2001, it's been to the shop more than 10 times.
The Check Engine light on is a pemanent thing now.
Brake pads have been changed twice now.
New clutch system installed in 2003, giving problems again.
NOW, the spark plugs. The 4th one (first from right to left) has been changed twice in one day and it keeps burning them.
I wish I could just sell the darn thing!