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Jeep Cherokee

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Comments

  • malugamaluga Member Posts: 1
    Apparently the fact I have constant problems with my Cherokee Sport's A/C are far from being unique. From the high volume of posts on this issue, every Jeep owner will experience this problem at one point or another...and it will remain in perpetual state of repair. Why doesn’t Chrysler reevaluate the design of the A/C system or the manufacture of this product? Elevating this problem would improve customer satisfaction thus increasing the likelihood of a return customer. Oh silly me, that would leave the service department at the local dealership with nothing to do.
  • thorsnakethorsnake Member Posts: 14
    My 99 XJ uses the new 134a freon, found at any auto parts store. I thought this was the new enviromentally friendly freon? Any way every car I have owned has always needed a recharge after 4-5 years ( They all used R12 ). Usually one can was enough. It seems over time even though this is susposed to be sealed unit, some burns up or evaporates with time :confuse: Usually one can of freon and I'm good to go for several more years. :)
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Either drain line in plugged or it has come loose. Find exit under car and use "low" pressure air to gently blow back to attempt to clear the line. If it has come loose then under dash surgery is needed to reattach it.
  • tianoogletianoogle Member Posts: 3
    I own a Jeep Cherokee Sports 94, and have 156K miles on it. it started overheating starting from yesterday. The temperature reached 260F (in red area) all the time, no matter whether in slowing driving or on the high way. I wonder if it's caused by my adding the engine oil yesterday? I haven't checked engine oil level for quite some time and I found its level is far below SAFE yesterday. I added 3 qts of some synthetic oil (Like this). Can this be the cause of overheating? I also checked my coolant reservoir, there is still enough fluid inside it. How should I check and repair this problem? thanks!! sorry for my english, i am not a native speaker....
  • suhailsuhail Member Posts: 1
    I own a 96 Jeep Cherokee. It runs great except occassionally, it seems to loose power as if it is running out of gas. The RPM needle starts to hover around "0" and the truck starts to slow down. Then all of a suddden, the power is back and everything is fine. Has anybody ever experienced anything like this. The problem occurs so randomly that the dealer or any other garage is not willing to spend time diagnosing the problem. I do have 210,000 miles on the truck. Could this be the sign of a dying fuel pump?
  • jeeperjeeper Member Posts: 4
    yes , give a shot with the otc. stuff at auto store. buy with gauge. instructions pretty simple . engine on , ac. on max. let run first . then follow instructions on can. stop when it says ok level. this is one case when more is truly worse. doubtful it is evap core. or it would have just failed altogether. probably a leak . ive never tried a sealant. take it in for shop repair if the charge works to have leak found. better for the car and the enviroment than pouring a can of 134 in every month .
  • franc779franc779 Member Posts: 1
    I am having a similar problem with my 96 Jeep Chrokee. Did you ever get it fixed?
    Cruise contrl sometimes work and sometimes doesn't.
    Anyone with an idea....?
  • thepdmmthepdmm Member Posts: 82
    I have a 97 cherokee manual.. I have noticed that the front end (somewhere) pops when I am turning at low speeds (won't do it if I turn the week from left to right and standing still).. I can be backing up or going forward.. it isn't a series of pops it is just one pop. I have had three different people tell me their jeep does it to. I am not sure how long it has been doing it. any ideas, is it a big deal?

    I had one person say it was probably the 4wd system binding up a bit??

    ideas?
  • scott23scott23 Member Posts: 1
    I blew a head gasket and need to flush the radiator but can't find the drain plug. Can someone please tell me where to find this.

    Thanks a ton
  • randman132randman132 Member Posts: 2
    I just recently had the misfortune of replacing the heater core in my 87 Cherokee. Now I know why the dealer charges $500 to do the job. Anyway, as misfortune would have it, while I was following the manual for heater core/evaporator housing removal the wind caught the page on the book and flipped it to evaporator core removal. (I'd recommend paperclips if working with a book outside)...anyway, I was happily disassembling and removing the heater control and radio wondering exactly what this had to do with the heater core removal when I realized the page had flipped. WHen I finally got the core replace and everything reassembled I've discovered that the control won't switch from defrost now. It won't go into the vent or heat setting. If I recall this was a vacuum setting. The vacuum connector appears to be back on the heater control head. Still won't work. Any ideas? Everything this is reconnected. :surprise:
  • randman132randman132 Member Posts: 2
    Sounds like two totally different problems to me. Fuel sender is bad or didn't get replaced or grounded or ???
    The freeway problem sounds like death wobble and it seems no one really had an answer for it.
    My 87 was doing it at 51...had the tracker bar replaced and that fixed it for a while but it came back. I had the front end aligned and checked 5 times by 3 different shops and everything was ok for a while but it came back again. I ended up replacing the steering stabilizer whichalso fixed it for a time but it started again. I bought a cheap stabilizer. It apparently failed. I put an Old Man EMU Stabilizer (it was about twice as big as the cheap one) on and the problem is gone. 4K miles and it hasn't come back.
  • mnkelsey79mnkelsey79 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Jeep Cherokee with a 4.0L 6Cyl with 135000 Miles. It is starting fine but if I put the Automatic transmission in gear the engine drops out and almost stalls. If I put the transmission back in park or neutral the engine idle returns to normal. After a minute or so of idling I can usually get going with out any problems. I also noticed this afternoon that the same problem occurs if I switch on the AC right after starting. All the fluids look clean (Normal) and are at the proper level. Plugs, cables distributor, air filter and fuel filter are new. Up until now the vehicle has run great…

    I just spoke to my cousin who has an almost identical 94 Jeep Cherokee and he has the same problem… We’re both stumped… any ideas?
  • thorsnakethorsnake Member Posts: 14
    Any idea where this is located?
  • sandisezzsandisezz Member Posts: 4
    IF your '92 is the same as my '95, there is a pet-cock drain thingy behind the front grill. On my '95, I have to remove about 12 screws to remove the plastic grill, and the drain thingy is behind that... However, it might be easier to just disconnect the bottom radiator hose.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Open your hood and look near the firewall on the passenger side. There is a little black hose (about 3/4 inch in diameter) that protrudes from the firewall and turns down. It is right opposite the starter. I took a picture of mine. You can see a few drips of water on the frame below it.

    image>
  • bopperbopper Member Posts: 3
    Is replacing a radiator on a 1994 Cherokee an easy process? Is it the same as other cars? I have done other cars but was told a Jeep is different and more difficult.
    Thanks,
    Danny
  • flygirl1flygirl1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Jeep cherokee, 142000 miles. Today, while driving from work I noticed my radio was not on. Then I tried the front wiper, and they didn't work. The heater/airconditioner would not come on, and no turn signals. When I got I home I turned off the vehicle and then restarted it. Now everything works at least for now. Is there a problem with my ignition switch? My brother is great with cars, and can likely fix the problem but he wants to me ask some questions before we go tearing it apart. Please help!
  • bopperbopper Member Posts: 3
    Hi, just curious if you changed out your radiator on your car. I just posted a message trying to find out if it is easy to replace the radiator and some basic instructions. Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks
    Danny
  • jchartierjchartier Member Posts: 1
    I have seen this same issue in the past. The problem occurs when the ECM is transitioning from open loop to closed loop. The bank one sensor one O2 sensor isn't ready for the transition. It will cause the fuel mixture to fall on its face. The issue won't throw a code because the error is too short. These older style fuel systems are slow in responding to inputs. Even if you watch the computers input on a scanner you won't see this going on. Sometimes causing a lean pop from the intake. Simply swapping the O2 sensor will rid you of this problem. Please don't ask how long it took to find this one.....;)
  • jeepgirl3jeepgirl3 Member Posts: 10
    I have never flushed a radiator, but I recently installed a new one. The plug is on the passenger side. If you take the grill off you will see it. Oh, don't take it all the way out; just a few turns and the coolant should flow through the plug. If you take it all the way out, no big deal, you'll get it back in with a little patience.
  • jeepgirl3jeepgirl3 Member Posts: 10
    I just replaced the radiator on my 94 Cherokee (in-line 6) and it is not difficult at all. I suggest the Haynes manual, it has pictures and I have found it to be very good for diagnoses and instruction. The job took me about 3 hours, and I am in no way a mechanic, just a girl with a nice socket set. Good Luck.
  • thorsnakethorsnake Member Posts: 14
    Wow thank's for the picture. I found the tube easily. It was not plugged in all the way. I will correct that as soon as a find a way to blow air into it. Although I think this will be a while, as my a/c is leaking freon. :cry: Yep I charged it, and 3 days later it is gone again :mad:
    Thanks again.
  • usalbertusalbert Member Posts: 6
    My 1990 Jeep Cherokee, is overheating when I drive slowly, I dont understand why the radiator cap pops open few minutes after I slow down, and all my antinfreezze spills. :(:(:(
  • vkohrtvkohrt Member Posts: 1
    I am a dealer specializing in Cherokee's. We've had the same problem with my sons 96. We replaced the fuel pump last week at a cost of $98. This seems to have fixed the problem. The 96 is fairly easy to replace. You do not have to remove the tank on this year. You simply remove the cover and pump from the front side of the tank. If this does not solve the problem, the crank sensor will do the same. It is located on top of the bell housing and is easily replaced with two bolts. Part cost is about $68.

    Van Kohrt
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    You could insert a length of soft plastic tubing inside the drain tube and blow into it. That may clear it. But if your drain tube was detached, you may need to go under the dash to make sure the tube is attached properly now. It seems strange to me that it would just come loose on it's own. If your A/C refrigerant leak is the evaporator coil, then the dash needs opened to repair/replace it. If that's the case, be sure to tell the service person that the tube may be detached so they can fix it then. Good luck :)
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    So what's the question(s)?
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Have the cap pressure tested. It may be bad.
  • bopperbopper Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the information. I will tackle the project soon. I'll look for that manual. If it takes me more than three hours, I'm not gonna tell you. Thanks again.
  • brotherflashbrotherflash Member Posts: 1
    My wife's 1999 jeep cherokee keeps idling extremely high in fact if I take my foot off of the gas it will drive uninterrupted at a speed of 35 MPH. Two trips to the local yokels have resulted in unneccesary map sensor changes and BS diagnostic charges totalling around five to six hundred dollars. The mechanics claim that they are unable to reproduce the symptoms when they drive it around even after a technician supposedly took it home overnight. When I stop at a light the vehicle surges and I must put it in park and rev the engine in order to get it to return to its normal idling leve of around 800 rpm. If I don't rev it while it's in park it will idle at 2000 rpm. What the hell is going on? I'm a loyal jeep buyer. I have a wrangler with no problems but I've reached the end of my rope, especially since my wife doesn't ever notice the problem and it's been eight months and the mechanics won't credit us for the map sensor that the incorrectly diagnosed and replaced. Also the fan on the A/C works only on setting # 4 not 1,2, and 3. What's up with that. Thank you in advance for any input. Brotherflash.
  • flygirl1flygirl1 Member Posts: 2
    What would cause this to happen. Is there possible something wrong with my ignition switch or a relay switch?
  • britten440britten440 Member Posts: 1
    Bought another cherokee recently for cheap, runs great when it gets warm, but has problems when you first start it up. As soon as you fire it up, it doesn't idle great.. and when you put it in drive it gets worse. when you put your foot on the gas, gets to about 30 mphs and then both the rpms and mphs drop to almost nothig like you are just coasting, then a few seconds later it will pick back up get to around 30 mph, and drop off again. Keeps doing tihs for a few minutes total length can vary depending how long it has been sitting for. But after a few minutes... runs like it was brand new. The car will never completely stall.
    :sick: :sick: Check engine light came on recently and says it's a "0455" which is "the PCH has determined that a large leak exists in the evaporative emission control system" I've had it checked out by a few jeep dealerships and they say it's a fuel pump related issue, but i have my doubts. I read other messages on here saying it might be a leak on the actual canister or hose leading up to it. Has anyone else experienced this quick lose of power or have any ideas for me? thanks guys
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    I wife doesn't have a problem then you should be happy. Sounds like idle air motor to me. As for a credit. If they see no problem then all they can assume is that they fixed it and you should pay for it. :confuse:
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Has this happened only one time? It will be hard to find if everything works fine now. I would look at the wirng schematic to see if there is a common component for all the parts that didn't work and then inspect it to see if something is loose, corroded or damaged. It could be the ignition switch but that's not easy to inspect.
  • autonutsautonuts Member Posts: 138
    in looking for a newer used Cherokee say 2000 and newer. I have a few questions and hope that Jeep owners can answer honestly. How reliable are they in the long run? Is the 4wd reliable without problems? What kind of gas mileage do you get with the 4.0L? If they are problematic, what are the biggest concerns? I usually buy foreign but would like to buy a Jeep because for 1) It's American made and 2) It's cheaper to buy. Thanks in advance and please be honest. :D
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I had an '01 Cherkoee for about 2.5 years. Put 75k miles on it in that time period, and I think the only repair was a faulty oil-pressure sensor which was covered under warranty. The transmissions are actually japanese (aisan sp?) and while a bit clunky and not real excited about down-shifting from higher speeds, they're nearly bullet-proof. The 4.0L is also a bullet-proof and quite strong, although it makes quite a bit of racket. I sold it to a friend who now has over 110k miles on it and had to repair the A/C somewhat recently. The basic 4x4 system is very basic with a manual shifter that seems to be quite reliable. It was noisey when running in 4x4, but otherwise could go just about anywhere was locked in. 4lo would possibly pull a house off it's foundation.

    Look for one with the factory tow package because you get extra heavy cooling for engine/tranny as well as synthetic diff fluids. The hitch is nice too, and you can bolt a nice tow-hook onto it so you'll have tow hooks in front/back.

    I've had quite a few foreign cars/trucks over the years and while the Jeep is a bit of a crudely built machine, they're quite fun and seem to do a good job.

    Gas mileage? I rarely broke 18mpg in mix of driving. Long trips running 70-75 would get 20mpg if lucky. I got similar gas mileage out of my '02 V8 4x4 Chevy Tahoe so IMHO they get poor gas mileage. I had a rental liberty recently though that I wouldn't buy ever compared to the Cherokee. It felt top-heavy, low on power, and got a whopping 15mpg. The steering feels better in the liberty and the interior is a bit more up-class (although it's still low-rent duds).
  • elsdonelsdon Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Grand Cherokee Limited. Recently the other day, turning into a parking space at the grocery store I found my front tires were not differentiating and in fact I would say that I had force the Jeep into the space. Backing out was the same. Turning corners on the way home was not as bad but I could still tell that something was not right.
    The next day I took it for a test drive and found that while it was still “cool” the problem was diminished but as it heated up the problem became more pronounced again. I have checked all my fluids and they are all up to the proper levels. Beyond that I am kind of a dunce. Has any one else had this problem or can give me some ideas on what to check next? I appreciate the help.
    elsdon
  • bluzbluz Member Posts: 1
    Trying to pinpoint our Jeep's power steering drag. Even going down the road it is stiff. If you are turning the steering left to right, trying to troubleshoot where it is coming from, it sounds as if the P.S. is working very hard -as if it is low on fluid but the P.S. fluid is full. No leaks. Tight belt.
    Called autoparts store for a price on a P.S. pump and was told that P.S. failure is very rare. Any input on how I can pinpoint if problem is power steering pump or possibly rack? How can I tell if the rack is bad. Thanks for any advice.
  • autonutsautonuts Member Posts: 138
    Thanks a lot for your feedback! I appreciate your time. :)
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Before you replace the steering pump or gear box, make sure the ball joints aren't bad. If they freeze up, the steering will get very heavy.
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    I agree wholly with sebring95. I have a '99 4x4 Sport. Bought it new and really have enjoyed it. If you don't mind the truck like manner of the Cherokee it will serve you well. Want cushy? Look elsewhere.
  • usalbertusalbert Member Posts: 6
    Your post:

    #1488 of 1488 Re: Overheating Jeep Cherokee 1990 [dancerman] by usalbert Jun 22, 2005 (10:59 am)
    Bookmark | Reply | Move | Delete | E-mail Msg
    Replying to: dancerman (Jun 16, 2005 2:04 pm)

    :sick: You now that I noticed that when I turn off the engine the cooling fan goes off too.
    Is that suppost to hapen? because I remember that used to keep being on for a while after I turn the engine off. :cry: :confuse:
    the radiator cap is new , What do You mean with cap pressure?
    Do you Think the cooling fan switch may be bad or, the fan clutch may have something to do with it? Please help!!!!!!! remember the problems is when I stop and shut off the engine, thank You :surprise:


    | |
  • usalbertusalbert Member Posts: 6
    I noticed that when I turn off the engine the cooling fan goes off too.
    Is that suppost to hapen? because I remember that used to keep being on for a while after I turn the engine off.
    the problems is when I stop and shut off the engine, I have to put water and antifreeze very often, the cap pops open and all the coolant spills! and the engine it happend only with engine off
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Your first post said " when I drive slowly" not when you shut it off. Radiator caps are set to release at a specified pressure. Make sure yours is the correct one for your Jeep and that it releases at the pressure it is supposed to release at (have it tested). If you have too much coolant in your radiator that can cause it to release after you shut it off. This happens because after you shut it off you have no cooling and the heat in the engine heats the coolant and it expands. If you have to much coolant in there then it builds up pressure and it releases. I don't know if your fan is supposed to run after shut off or not. I assume you mean an electric fan. If it used to run but doesn't now then that could be the problem. There should be a relay switch for it. Maybe it's just a loose wire. Does the fan run when the engine is running? Only belt driven fans have clutches and belt driven fan stop when you shut it off.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    I'm fairly new to the Jeep family. I've always wanted a Jeep, and nearly two years ago I bought my first Jeep. It's a '95 YJ that's mainly a trail rig, and town cruiser when it's clean - which isn't very often! Four months ago I traded my truck for an '01 XJ and last month my wife traded a minivan for an '04 WJ. So needless to say, we've fallen in love with Jeeps. I love that bullet-proof 4.0L motor. In fact, I'm working on swapping one into the 4-banger YJ. So if anyone has an AX-15 sitting around the garage taking up space and you want to get rid of it cheap(hehehehe), let me know.

    The question: Why do Jeeps all have a 195* thermostat in them? From the factory, all my Jeeps seem to run hot. I changed the YJ thermostat to a 185* and am much happier with that setup. With it being summer, my XJ runs just above 210* in town. It never goes any higher than that, and my YJ ran the same way before I changed it out. So I'm certain there's no problem as I've seen other Jeeps do the same, including my wife's. What would happen to my XJ if I change that one to a 185* as well?
  • usalbertusalbert Member Posts: 6
    Thank You for all that info, now even when I drive slowly the temperature is normal, will overheat when I stop and Shut off the engine. I noticed Coolant Leaking by the oil pam, but is not mix with oil, I 'm not sure if leak when driving, because I dont see water marks behind. thank You again
  • elsdonelsdon Member Posts: 2
    Can't believe no one has any thoughts on this problem.
    Anyone..anyone.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I believe I've read the higher temps is for emissions reasons. The 4.0L had problems later in life meeting emissions standards (which is why it's a goner now) and I believe the higher temp helped this. The '01's even had some odd intakes/manifolds or something. Anyway, I'm not sure you'll hurt anything by swapping, unless you're required to get e-checked. Then in may not matter anyway as I don't think local e-checks are as strict as the EPA.
  • josesquiveljosesquivel Member Posts: 1
    Used to have a 55 Amp alternator, and in rainy nights --wipers, headlights, radio and AC-- I run out of electrical power: wipers stop working, blower works but the AC fan and AC clutch does not. Have to turn everything off, keeping the engine running a while to be able to continue. A few weeks ago I replaced the alternator for a 100 Amp one, but the problem persists. Checked the battery and it is good, and it is being charged ok. Any ideas where should I look next? :cry:
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    This forum is for Cherokee, not Grand Cherokee. It may not matter technically but if you post in a Grand Cherokee forum you may get some input. :)
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Sounds like an overload problem to me, i.e. you are drawing too many amps through part of your system. Look at your circuit diagram(s) to find a thermal protection relay that controls the wipers and A/C components. Either the relay is bad or one of the components is bad (using more current than it should).
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