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Jeep Cherokee

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  • usalbertusalbert Posts: 6
    Your post:

    #1488 of 1488 Re: Overheating Jeep Cherokee 1990 [dancerman] by usalbert Jun 22, 2005 (10:59 am)
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    Replying to: dancerman (Jun 16, 2005 2:04 pm)

    :sick: You now that I noticed that when I turn off the engine the cooling fan goes off too.
    Is that suppost to hapen? because I remember that used to keep being on for a while after I turn the engine off. :cry: :confuse:
    the radiator cap is new , What do You mean with cap pressure?
    Do you Think the cooling fan switch may be bad or, the fan clutch may have something to do with it? Please help!!!!!!! remember the problems is when I stop and shut off the engine, thank You :surprise:


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  • usalbertusalbert Posts: 6
    I noticed that when I turn off the engine the cooling fan goes off too.
    Is that suppost to hapen? because I remember that used to keep being on for a while after I turn the engine off.
    the problems is when I stop and shut off the engine, I have to put water and antifreeze very often, the cap pops open and all the coolant spills! and the engine it happend only with engine off
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Your first post said " when I drive slowly" not when you shut it off. Radiator caps are set to release at a specified pressure. Make sure yours is the correct one for your Jeep and that it releases at the pressure it is supposed to release at (have it tested). If you have too much coolant in your radiator that can cause it to release after you shut it off. This happens because after you shut it off you have no cooling and the heat in the engine heats the coolant and it expands. If you have to much coolant in there then it builds up pressure and it releases. I don't know if your fan is supposed to run after shut off or not. I assume you mean an electric fan. If it used to run but doesn't now then that could be the problem. There should be a relay switch for it. Maybe it's just a loose wire. Does the fan run when the engine is running? Only belt driven fans have clutches and belt driven fan stop when you shut it off.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I'm fairly new to the Jeep family. I've always wanted a Jeep, and nearly two years ago I bought my first Jeep. It's a '95 YJ that's mainly a trail rig, and town cruiser when it's clean - which isn't very often! Four months ago I traded my truck for an '01 XJ and last month my wife traded a minivan for an '04 WJ. So needless to say, we've fallen in love with Jeeps. I love that bullet-proof 4.0L motor. In fact, I'm working on swapping one into the 4-banger YJ. So if anyone has an AX-15 sitting around the garage taking up space and you want to get rid of it cheap(hehehehe), let me know.

    The question: Why do Jeeps all have a 195* thermostat in them? From the factory, all my Jeeps seem to run hot. I changed the YJ thermostat to a 185* and am much happier with that setup. With it being summer, my XJ runs just above 210* in town. It never goes any higher than that, and my YJ ran the same way before I changed it out. So I'm certain there's no problem as I've seen other Jeeps do the same, including my wife's. What would happen to my XJ if I change that one to a 185* as well?
  • usalbertusalbert Posts: 6
    Thank You for all that info, now even when I drive slowly the temperature is normal, will overheat when I stop and Shut off the engine. I noticed Coolant Leaking by the oil pam, but is not mix with oil, I 'm not sure if leak when driving, because I dont see water marks behind. thank You again
  • elsdonelsdon Posts: 2
    Can't believe no one has any thoughts on this problem.
    Anyone..anyone.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    I believe I've read the higher temps is for emissions reasons. The 4.0L had problems later in life meeting emissions standards (which is why it's a goner now) and I believe the higher temp helped this. The '01's even had some odd intakes/manifolds or something. Anyway, I'm not sure you'll hurt anything by swapping, unless you're required to get e-checked. Then in may not matter anyway as I don't think local e-checks are as strict as the EPA.
  • Used to have a 55 Amp alternator, and in rainy nights --wipers, headlights, radio and AC-- I run out of electrical power: wipers stop working, blower works but the AC fan and AC clutch does not. Have to turn everything off, keeping the engine running a while to be able to continue. A few weeks ago I replaced the alternator for a 100 Amp one, but the problem persists. Checked the battery and it is good, and it is being charged ok. Any ideas where should I look next? :cry:
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    This forum is for Cherokee, not Grand Cherokee. It may not matter technically but if you post in a Grand Cherokee forum you may get some input. :)
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Sounds like an overload problem to me, i.e. you are drawing too many amps through part of your system. Look at your circuit diagram(s) to find a thermal protection relay that controls the wipers and A/C components. Either the relay is bad or one of the components is bad (using more current than it should).
  • jeeperjeeper Posts: 4
    hey ,
    my baby 99 cherokee lost a fog light to a tragic rock accident. dealer wants 130.00 dollars for one light.( its my baby, not my wife!) . anybody know a good aftermarket that will fit or can be coerced into place. i will be replacing both so blue lights are not a problem. i also need to get new rotors . tired of the oem. tired of the brake shakes. thanks in advance TTFN (tribute to winchell)
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    www.jeepsareus.com -- they sell individual OEM fog lights for half that. Can't help with rotors, I have the same issue.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,907
    A reporter is interested in speaking with current Cherokee owners about their major likes, dislikes, price paid and other vehicles considered. He will also want to mention your name, city and state. If you are interested in speaking with this reporter, please send your name and daytime phone number to Pam Krebs, Edmunds.com PR, at pkrebs@edmunds.com before Wednesday, July 6. Thank you.

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  • sandisezzsandisezz Posts: 4
    Danny, I have not changed out the radiator yet... I'm still delaying the inevitable!
  • coldbuschcoldbusch Posts: 1
    I'm about to try to do an OEM replacement and your picture looks exactly like what I have....2000 Jeep Cherokee. My first question is: What is the first step to take to remove the radio?

    Is the "head unit" the plastic frame that goes around the a/c vents, radio, heating & cooling, cig lighter, switches, and 12V power source?

    I hope your replacement unit sounds as good as it looks.

    Thanks, JCS
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Thanks for the reply sebring. I've read somewhere that lower temps would cause the engine to run rich. With gas being a little over $2/gallon and me driving roughly 90 miles each day, I don't want to upset my 21 mpg. I'm like you, I don't see how I could hurt anything. The coolant needs changing anyway. And if I notice a sudden dive in mileage, it's not a big deal to drain some coolant and put a new 195* back in. I don't live in an area that does e-checks. Thank goodness. My YJ would never pass!! At 13mpg there's no way. :D
  • jeepgirl3jeepgirl3 Posts: 10
    Thank you so much for for this reply. I recently replaced the entire new cooling system in my 1994 Cherokee, radiator and cap, water pump, thermostat, and fan clutch. When I bought the thermostat, the guy asked what temp I wanted: 195º, 185º or 165º. I had no idea, so I picked the one in the middle. Well, he gave me the 165º, and I installed it. I get over 19mpg, which is not too bad, but I do have to pass emmisions testing in my state, so now I know to switch it out before going for the test. Thanks, the Jeep always fails emmisions on the first try, maybe this time it will pass.

    Also, on days when the temperature is below 90º. I have no problem with the temp (stays at the 165º mark), unless I climb a long steep hill, but on hotter days the temp very slowly creaps up, and then runs quite high, I think it would over heat if I let it. The heater seems to suck the heat off the engine quite well, but is a little warm in a 90º+ day. I'm wondering if the thermostat is opening all the way. The eletrical fan does kick on, and the temperature drops when it does, but then slowly rises. Stopping at lights and such does not cause the temp to rise any faster. Since I replaced the entire cooling system I am unsure of what to replace next.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,233
    Wow coldbusch, you dug that one out of the past! I'll try to remember how it went....basically I believe you just pop the plastic trim piece that surrounds the entire center console (radio, hvac, cig lighter, etc.). It comes off in one piece, I think you grab the bottom and pull out, then the top will come. You might have to move the shifter out of park to have room to pull the bottom out. Basically there's just a couple screws holding in the factory radio. IIRC, it only took maybe 15 minutes to swap it out. Just make sure you have the right adapter harness and it's a breeze.

    As for sound....the factory speakers are pretty bad too. I swapped them out with Infinity Kappas (do they still make these??) and that was a huge improvement. I was pretty happy with the system. Sold the Jeep to a friend and the system is still going strong.
  • daaudaau Posts: 1
    When driving along and hit a bump, the whole vehicle shakes like crazy...What's up?
  • I have a 1993 Jeep Cherokee. Recently, my tail lights simply stop functioning. I replaced all the bulbs, and checked all the fuses, and still my tail lights will not turn on. This is a large problem because when night comes, I have no way to get around, because I have already received a ticket for "defficient lighting." My headlights, parking lights, reverse lights, turning signals, and brake lights all work, can anyone think of a reason of why my tail lights aren't functioning? Any ideas would help.
    Thanks
    -Nick
  • jeeperjeeper Posts: 4
    first , replace both front and rear shocks . if oem they suck they are shot. ive had gabriels and monroes in my jeeps and both were superior , changed ride remarkably. next check mounts on engine ( should not be problem but never know. ) if time and money not an issue order the silcone set from whitney . boots mounts . i have the same jeep and my ride improved 100 % with just the upgrade shocks . depending on your mileage check the springs. but do the shocks first. buy the best that you can . get an all around shock . off road shocks will just stiffen an already stiff ride.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Have you tried checking the ground? Are they even getting any power? - A fuse could be ok, but something could have chewed/broken the wires going to the tail lights.
  • What do I need or how do you suggest to check the ground?
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Use a multi-tester. You can get one at AutoZone, Advance, NAPA, or any auto parts store. Infact, I'm sure Wal-Mart would have one in their auto dept. There will be a "continuity" mode on that tester. What that mode does is to check whether a connection or length of wire is conductive. Usually these testers will have a small alligator clip that you attach to a grounding surface near the item you are checking, it has to be metal. In the case of your tail lights, I'd suggest an exposed screw head, nut/bolt head, anything that's attached to the body or frame of the Jeep. The other lead you will actually insert the probe into the negative side of the light bulb socket. Do this with the lights turned off just in case you get the positive side first. If the tester doesn't buzz or beep when you try the first wire, try the other wire in the connector. If it doesn't beep at all, then you have a grounding problem.

    If it does beep, then you probably have a power supply problem. To check that, probe the positive side of the light socket. You will need to remember which side was the negative side. Set the meter to DC voltage in a high enough range to handle 12V. Mine has 10V and 30V - obviously the 10V setting is too low and will blow the fuse in my unit, use the higher setting. When you turn the lights on, you should see roughly 12V registered on the tester. If not, then you have a broken power supply wire and or a bad connection somewhere in the circuit.

    I hope this helps. That multi-tester that you need will help you with all sorts of problems on your Jeep, not just lights.
  • jeepandyjeepandy Posts: 3
    I just bought a 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4 with auto trans., and was told that it had been driven about 13,000 miles, and towed behind a motor home for about 50,000 miles. The odometer shows 63,000 miles. The first question is: Does the mileage on the odometer go up when the Jeep is being towed?

    Next, I checked the MPG and it is only 14.91mpg. This was the first tank of gas, and was around town driving, and a short trip of about 120 miles. No off road driving at all. What can I do to improve the mpg? I have changed the oil and filter, and am using full synthetic 10W30. The air filter appears to be new. Any help will be appreciated.

    Third, does anyone know if you can contact a Jeep dealer and get a copy of the window sticker for an old Jeep like mine? I called the dealer where this one was purchased new, and was told by the girl on the phone that "we only keep stuff like that for 5 years". Not sure how accurate her info was... am planning a trip to the dealership in the future. It is located in another town. Anyway... I thought maybe Chrysler had some kind of customer service dept. that would have this info.

    Last, I know that Cherokees were made for many years, and I think that there were several (2 or 3) different editions... or body changes during production... anyone have any info about this... or can anyone steer me in the right direction to do my own research?

    Thanks in advance... and go easy on me... I'm an old guy and the new kid here.

    Andy Anderson
  • I have a 1989 Cherokee 4wd with the 4.0 motor and am going out of my mind as to why it wont start. It will crank, fuel pump is pumping and its getting fuel (you can smell it) but something isnt let it start. Heres what I ve replaced so far and nothings changed: camshaft postion sensor in the distributor, the Ignition control module, the coil, the ECU under the dash, cap, rotor and wires, and the starter relay and related relays. I m at a loss. It was an intermittent problem and then it finally didnt want to start. you could tell when it was going to start because the tac would jump slighty. Now it doesnt move. Its like somethings grounding out the module. Anyone have Any ideas?
  • reganp70reganp70 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee. Saturday morning the fan clutch and the electric cooling fan went out. Fortunately when it happened I was about 2 blocks from a garage and not on the highway. I was pulling my boat, which is also about 18 feet long. The total repair with a new thermostat was $875.00. Included in that was the electric cooling fan which cost $475.00 for the part alone.

    What ever came about your situation?
  • I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 2X4 4-Door, and I wanted to get a lift. I'm finding a bunch of lift kits for Jeep Cherokee XJ's 84-01, and I'm not sure what an XJ is. Can someone help please?
    -PBrown6884
  • usalbertusalbert Posts: 6
    thank You very much! I finally replaced my water pump, It was leaking there, now my jeep runs like new!!!!!!!!!! so happy!!!!
    I really apreciatte your help! Now I have another problem! my air conditionenr wont turn on, neither my turn signal! I dont know what to do! if is a loose wire HOw do I find it?
    thank You again :)
  • I have a '98 Cherokee Sport with just over 120K on it, and not looking to spend much more $ on it - basically I want to drive it into the ground before I get something else.

    Well it looks like its close to that now - brought it in for service (for other reasons, AC recharging, tire rotation, etc) and Im getting quoted for all new brakes in the front and the rear. And I mean everything - drums, rotors, shoes, you name it. Im getting quoted at least 450+ in the front, and prolly 500+ for the rear. I havent even felt like my brakes were something that even needed to be looked at

    For a car that I could prolly only sell for 4K, is it even worth it?
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