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I just wanted to add something that Sandisezz mentioned in their reply.
I bought a 3-row ALL metal, and I mean all metal, radiator for my '99 xj from
www.radiatorbarn.com
It was $140 delivered.
It's the radiator Jeep put in the heavy duty (forrestry, police, etc) packages.
But a thermostat that opens up around 180 - 185 and you'll be amazed.
This is what I have and idling at a stop light on a 90+ degree day, I'm still running below 200 degrees. Running temp is 210. It worked for me, may work for you.
One other thing, if you do the work yourself, you'll need what they call a Ford connection tool. It's a tool needed to remove the transmission line from the bottom of the radiator. The same kind of connections that you'll notice are on the AC lines. I got my tool at Harbour Frieght for $3 for 8 different size lines. I think NAPA carrys them too.
Anyway, good luck.
WorleyGuy
I once had a Lincoln Town Car. It would blow 33* air while sitting still in the drive on an 80* day. Needless to say it had a GOOD A/C on it. Well, on hot days, those over 100*, it had a hard time cooling down a hot car. My '01 Cherokee doesn't have that good of an A/C, but it's decent. It has a hard time when it's hot too. Unless it's blowing warm to hot air, I'd say your A/C is doing as good as can be expected.
WorleyGuy
Apparently my sway bar bushings were extrememly worn at the chasis mounts.
Looking at them while the Jeep was on the ground, they looked fine.
Looking at the Jeep while it was up on jack stands, they looked fine.
Until I jacked up one side placing the jack behind the front wheel did I notice that there was a gap between the bar and the bushing, enough to put a number 2 pencil between.
I bought 2 bushings - $5.50 each.
Also, 2 sway bar bushing repair kits, which is all the bushings for the connection rods. - $8.50 each.
Total of $28 and a hours time, no more clunking and better handling.
I'm going to do this to my '90 XJ as soon as I can.
I've got a 99 Cherokee Sport 4wd 4.0l with 139000 miles. Lately, the airbag light comes on while driving and the speedometer and the tach stop working. I've seen a discussion about this problem on another board somewhere? Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem?
Thanks
MES0970
I have to say, that this Limited, with 79k miles on it, drives like it was brand new. Heckuva lot better than my '99 Explorer with just 57k miles on it. However, I think I'll have to pass on it (probably kick myself later) because being a big guy, it just doesn't fit me. Darn shame too, cause it's a looker.
In the past year, three of my four windows have stopped working. One of them is an inch down and won't go back up. I noticed that the windows were failing because they stopped responding quickly, started moaning and finally gave out all together. I spent over $300 on a new window motor and parts for one of the windows, only to learn that this did nothing to solve the problem. I believe it could be a fuse as well, but don't know for sure and don't want to spend more money on a wild goose chase. I've run into other Cherokee owners who have experienced electical issues of the same nature.
My turn signals and rear window wiper work when they feel like, sometimes for days not at all, sometimes only for a few seconds.
Finally, my front door speakers don't work anymore.
Outside of the routine new rooters and brake pads I have not had any other issues to date.
Are the problems I'm having possibly related???
Thanks in advance for any input!
Thanks
Brake issues could be a faulty design. However, that can be easily cured with some better aftermarket rotors and pads. But, I don't think you'll have any of these problems as they should be corrected by now.
BTW: I don't know your local market, but I paid $11,400 for mine. (Used Jeeps tend to sell over "book value" around here.)
Sounds like a good start. The factory tow package included heavy-duty engine cooling, probably a bigger rad as you're ordering. The 4.0L does run on the hot-side normally, so it's always been a bear to keep cool when towing.
I have a 97 Jeep Cherokee , 115K, great vehicle. I just replaced the ABS controller and that light finally went out (and anti-lock brakes work again) but today the "check engine light" came on. It still runs fine. I just did a 300 mile RT to the Oregon Coast last week. Any ideas/suggestions. My friend is a mechanic and will look at it later. Thanks,
It is so good to hear about Cherokees going 200K plus. That is I want with this one.
John
Another question: What degF thermostat should I use. I had a 160F. I took it out and replaced it with the standard 195F. I'm leaning to split the difference, say 180F. I also had a problem with the T'stat housing cover. I gushed water when I first put it back on. I then applied permatex in addition to the paper gasket. I think I over tightened the bolts - now the cover weeps from what looks like a crack in the cover body. I'm getting a new cover today after work.
Any advice helps.
1. is it some thing like needs oil change?
2. O2 sensor needs check etc!
3. how to reset it.
Thanks
Scott
RE the elec fan you added to your Wrangler, did you replace an existing one? The XJ already has an elec fan in addition to the belt-driven fan. Is it a more powerful fan? Can you adjust the temperature at which it come on? Questions...
The electric fan I put on the YJ is off a late model GM car, some smaller car like a Cavalier or Sunfire etc.... I doubt it's any more powerful than the mechanical one, but does pull more air while the engine is idling. Since I'm puting together parts for an engine swap in the YJ, I didn't go to any great lengths on the fan thermostat. I got one at AutoZone for $17. It's one of those that has a sensor you attach to the radiator itself. It measures the air temp flowing through the radiator, rather than the coolant temp directly. It is adjustable, and once I fooled with the settings for a while to find that perfect setting, I have all but forgotten about it. One thing I did extra while wiring the thermostat, I installed a three position switch in the dash so I can run the fan in one of three modes. I can run the fan on auto where the thermostat cycles if off and on. I can run the fan continuously. (When I installed it, I thought I may have to use this mode when doing long hill climbs, but turns out the auto mode can handle it. However I still use it to cool the engine down.) And finally I can turn it off all together for situations such as a deep water crossing. I have two indicator lights also wired into the system. An amber light cycles off and on with the fan in auto mode, and a red light comes on when I turn the fan on.
Sometimes my passengers not familiar with the setup get a little concerned when that amber light comes on, and REALLY concerned when they don't see me flip the switch to continuous mode and that red light is on. :P