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Jeep Cherokee

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Comments

  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    The IAC is not part of the vacuum system. It is attached to the side of the throttle body facing the valve cover. All it controls is the amount of air being sucked into the engine when the engine is at idle. With the throttle plate closed, the engine would die from lack of air if it weren't for the IAC. My '01 will do the same thing if the engine temps are too high. When I am backing a trailer into a spot, then engine temps will climb. When I shut off the engine, the temps will climb rather high, all engines do this. If it sits long enough, the engine temps will come down to a normal level and everything is fine. I haven't figured out why mine does this. The PCM will turn the Check Engine Light on if it does it enough and a code scanner shows either a #2 or #3 cylinder misfire and sometimes a multiple random cylinder misfire. :confuse: If I ever figure it out, I'll post the cure.
  • unekgalunekgal Member Posts: 15
    RINFANTINO: I have a 96 Jeep Cherokee Sport (inline 6), and I love it! It runs great, with no major problems since I bought it in 2000. I was well loved, garage kept, and engine well detailed. It has 149700 miles, and runs sweet. When I first bought it at 96000, I had to change the water pump because it went bad, but other than that, regular maaintenance was all! ONE MAJOR PROBLEM I DID HAVE NOW THAT I THINK ABOUT IT...DO NOT PUT A FRAM (EASY GRIP OR REGULAR) OIL FILTER ON IT!!! I blew 2 off and was lucky not to lock up the engine! My AC also doesn't work. Hole in the condenser coil, and haven't really wanted to sink the $$ into it yet. When it's that hot, I take my husbands car! I don't know about yours, but mine has some balls! The only mods I have done is a K&N air filter and some Boush Platinum Plus 2 spark plugs. Hope this helps!! Enjoy the Jeep!
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    In the past, all I used were Fram oil filters. Two years ago I stopped using them based on what a good friend of mine told me. He works at a factory that produces various types of filter paper for air and oil filters. They make two grades of paper. As part of their quality control program, they go to the parts stores and will purchase several filters that are made with their filter paper. They supply paper to several different manufacturers. They perform their own testing. I was surprised when he told me the Fram oil filters didn't hold up on multi-pass tests. The Fram DOES do very well on the first pass, but then the filtering capacity diminishes rather quickly on subsequent passes. The Wal-Mart brand SuperTech filter actually out performs the Fram in multi-pass testing.

    Since this is the internet and you have NO idea how honest I am, you can take this advise for what it is worth.
  • wheatley1wheatley1 Member Posts: 15
    Well yesterday I tore the throttle body off and disasembled it. I sprayed the hell out of it with Gumout and WD-40 put it back on and blew air through all my vacume lines. So far it is running better and not acting up on hot starts like it used to, but I am keeping my fingers crossed because even when it did act up it wasn't all the time.
  • kylerenegadekylerenegade Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 89 cherokee. It was the idol sensor. I needed a mechanic for the computers and stuff and it was a hell of an expensive part but it should fix it.
  • seansjeepseansjeep Member Posts: 14
    Sounds like a plan mate. May have to follow up on that. ;) I'm not very familiar with that particular process, but the internet is such a useful tool.
    So, I have changed out my plugs and wires as I said I would. I am using the Bosch Platinum plugs and the premium Bosch wire set. I have definately noticed a tremendous difference in performance considering the champion's I took out were way past thier prime. One thing I did notice right away was the gapping on the plugs. They were way too wide, ranging from 1.8-2mm when they should be .89mm. so I'm guessing whoever had put those bad boys in decided that gapping was not important. I also replced the front oxygen sensor aswel. Unfortunately the check engine light just came on again today after about 20 mins after I replaced all of these componants. I will dissconnect the battery once more to reset the readings and hope for the best on that. Other than that I haven't noticed power loss or rough idles. However, I also have not had it out much this weekend. Will keep the latest posted! Good luck with the idle air control motor! Definately would like to hear about that.
  • seansjeepseansjeep Member Posts: 14
    Well, here I am again...and still having some response issues with the throttle...so I am going to take the throttle body off like you have done and clean it up with some good ol' elbow grease which you can pick up at any local parts store for about zero dollars and a good laugh.

    We'll see, I love my Jeep and don't want to put it at the mercy of a mehcanic just yet.

    Have you yet noticed any previous signs like before, once you cleaned yours up?

    All the best
  • skrusz7413skrusz7413 Member Posts: 2
    I am having the same weird screeching noise in my 2000 cherokee sport. Did you ever figure out what it was? I had the serpentine belt replaced, but it didn't fix it. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • skrusz7413skrusz7413 Member Posts: 2
    In the cold weather my jeep makes this loud almost chirping/screeching noise which increases as i speed up and decreases as i slow. it happens whether i'm pressing the gas pedal or not. also right before i go from a comlete stop, there's this high pitched chirp noise just for a second. i had the serpentine belt replaced, but it didn't change a thing. anyone!! the dealer is having propblems diagnosing it. makes me crazy!
  • seansjeepseansjeep Member Posts: 14
    Just try tightening the belt some more, I had a similar issue with the weather changing and all and it even brought the "check guages" light on. My battery guage dropped to zero. I thought my alternator went on me, but the belt just slipped. All is good now and no annoying high pitched sqeeling.
  • jbernstein1jbernstein1 Member Posts: 1
    i replace my cat and header recently, I have had problem after replacement with start up, when i do, the car screams to redline and i have to turn it off that second. either it is an enormous intake leak or i have a sensor problem... any suggestions????
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    No intake leak would cause it to redline. The fuel/air ratio would be too lean and the engine would die. If a sensor were malfunctioning and feeding way to much fuel into the engine, the fuel/air ratio would be too rich since the throttle plate should be closed and the engine would die. Are you sure the throttle linkage is not stuck in the wide open position? That engine will not redline without both the sensors saying to do so, which is the electronics, and the throttle plate being open, mechanical. Pull the rubber intake boot off the throttle body and see if the throttle plate is closed or open.

    You mention an accident. How serious of an accident? Who did the repair work? If the TPS is shorted and maximum voltage is being sent back to the PCM AND there is a large hole in the intake manifold, say on the bottom where you can't see it, then I can see this situation occuring.
  • rd75rd75 Member Posts: 10
    I've got a 2001 Jeep Cherokee, 4.0L with 100,000 miles. I hardly get any heat from the heater, I'm pretty sure it's the heater core. The engine heats up fine to proper temp and I recently changed the thermostat just to be sure. I'm thinking about replacing the heater core myself to save some money. Does anyone have any advice on disassembling the dash to get to the core? I know it's a big job, but is it pretty straight forward? Are there any hidden or difficult snaps that will cause me problems? Also, are there any manuals out there that would give a more detailed explanation of how to do it?
  • gvrgvr Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I am the proud owner of a 99 sport, 4dr. Just paid off. I got hit in the passenger rear wheel at about 50mph. The estimator says the uni-body is twisted. I'm no mechanic, but I love my jeep. Is this gonna do it in? And if I do keep it are there likely to be long term problems down the road? :cry:
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Are you sure the heater core is stopped up? It could be that the mixing door is stuck in the cold position. This door swings back and forth allowing air to flow over the heater core or the evaporator coil depending on whether you have the controls set to hot or cold. You'll most likely have to get to this door anyway to replace the heater core. I'd suggest checking it out before replacing the core. Also, look for a vacuum line that has come loose. I admit I've never looked at mine, but some of them are vacuum actuated. Other than that, a cable control could be loose or off.
  • rd75rd75 Member Posts: 10
    Thanks for the idea. Now the heater control dial does work. If I turn the dial you can feel the air going from cold to very slighly warm, so there is is variance in the air coming out. Could the door be swinging only part of the way, not allowing the completely hot position, or is it all or nothing? Another question, if I start tearing into the dash, does everything come off around the airbag or does the airbag get removed to?
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    The mixing door could either be binding as it swings from cold to hot or something could be in its way. The door will move in relation to the temp. control knob. So no, it is not all or nothing.

    I would try to go in through the glove box opening. Once you remove the glove box itself, you should have plenty of room to look around. I wouldn't mess with the airbag unless it was absolutely necessary.
  • 4hobbes4hobbes Member Posts: 4
    I love my 92 Jeep but my husband is beginning to hate it, small problems here and there. Our new problem is the heater. The other day it just decided that it wasn't going to work. If you move the control button back and forth between the different options (ac, vent, heat) you can hear noises, like things opening and closing, but no air flow. The only time you can get any heat (air flow) or the defroster to work is if your moving and then you can feel some heat coming through the vents. Sitting still you feel nothing. It usually doesn't work in the morning but for some strange reason it does in the evening.
    Help it's freezing outside!
    Thanks! :confuse:
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    If you turn the fan up, do you hear it?
  • 4hobbes4hobbes Member Posts: 4
    No. there is no sound out of the fan at all. I think more or less the heat coming through is due to the circulation of the air, not the fan running.
  • design786design786 Member Posts: 14
    I own a 1996 Jeep Cherokee and have an oil drip from the drain plug. Tightening the drain plug does not help. The local parts store tried to sell me a bigger self tapping plug which I am a bit hesitant to install - might ruin the oil pan. Does anybody have any suggestions on how to stop the drip short of replacing the oil pan.

    Thanks
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Check the fuses for the fan. Those could be under the dash or under the hood. If the fuses are good, then check the wiring at the blower motor, make sure it's still plugged in. If it is plugged in, use a voltage tester to check for power at the plug. If you have power at that connector, then the motor is probably bad. If you don't have power, then it could be the switch - but it could also be anywhere in between.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    There should be a washer on the drain plug. Those washers wear out and sometimes fall off when the oil is changed. If you have a second vehicle, just take the drain plug with you to a parts store to get a new washer. Once I was in a bind and made one out of a nylon plumbing washer. It stayed on my truck for two years.
  • mikefrommexicomikefrommexico Member Posts: 1
    Someone helped themselves to my radio, and all that is left is a bunch of wires hanging out.
    I got a new stereo, but my chiltons doesn't tell me which wire goes where.
    Anybody know?

    Thanks
  • 4hobbes4hobbes Member Posts: 4
    We checked the fuses and they were ok but we haven't checked the blower motor yet. We'll follow your direction and let you know what happens. A work buddy of my husband's suggested changing out the relay. Is that something that we should consider? I mean this guy didn't know how the relay worked or how to test it but knew that they were cheap and easy to change out. To me it sounds like extra work without solving the problem.
    Thanks! ;)
  • jkrowjkrow Member Posts: 1
    My 95 cherokee leaks gas from the top of the tank. You can not see exactly where but it leaks from the top, even when the tank is almost empty. The leak only occurs during the fall and winter. In the summer it does not leak gas. I dont know if there is some kind of filter there or what the problem is, but I would like to get it squared away. If anyone actually knows what the problem could be or has heard of this problem before, please let me know what you know. The jeep still runs great, even with 198 grand on her. Please help me. Thank you,
    Jeffrey
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    The relay, I had completely forgotten about it! That is a definite possibility. I'd still check to see if you have power to the fan. If you don't, that relay would be my primary suspect. Relays are easy to change, literally pull the old one out, it just plugs in, and push the new one into the socket.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    You need to drop the tank. Drive it until it is nearly empty so the tank won't be so heavy. Remove the two bolts at the rear of the tank that holds the straps. Use a floor jack to support the tank. Either before, or as you begin to lower it, you'll have to remove the filler neck hose and may have to remove other hoses/wires that are attached to the frame. Once down, you should be able to see where it has been leaking.
  • seansjeepseansjeep Member Posts: 14
    I'm sorry for your loss. I hope they didn't do too much damage getting it out. In most cases the damage done is worth more than the player itself.
    You're going to need to purchase a wiring harness. You can pick up and most all car audio shops or even a Van and truck world.
    I'm assuming they just hacked your wires off? If they did that then you obviously have to take care in re-wiring. Be sure there are no nicks further up the wires and keep the factory wires as long as possible, but all the same length to keep them neat and tidy.

    Bare with me for the wire colours. (these are the wires inside the Jeep, not the ones on your new unit, those may different and you need to match them up with the instructions that came with it. You did get instructions right?)

    Front speaker Left: +Green, -Black/White
    Front speaker Right: +Black, -White

    Rear speaker Left: +Green/Black, -Brown/White
    Rear speaker Right: +Brown, -White Black

    In line Ignition: Red
    Light Switch: Blue
    Fuse Block: Pink
    Power Antenna(if applicable): Grey
    Dimmer: Orange and White
    GROUND WIRE: BLACK

    I hope this helps! Good luck and if your new unit has a detachable faceplate, take it off if you're leaving your truck somewhere where it would be easy prey. The unit is worthless without the faceplate. And don't just put it in the glove box.

    Regards, Sean
  • kesmkesm Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,
    Does anybody know about axle ratio's of 2.1l diesel engine cherokee?
    Thanks.
  • wheatley1wheatley1 Member Posts: 15
    Well I know it's been a while, but even after I tore the throttle body off and cleaned all the stuff on there, it still decided to do it's irregular idle thing. The last time it did it though I popped the hood ripped off the hose from the air box leading to the throttle body and manually revved(or at least tried to rev) up the engine. All it did was backfire inside the header as usual until reaching 3000 RPM and I was on the road again. I have been told to change the MAP sensor, but I also heard that there is a possibility of a vapor locked fuel pump. The fuel pump thing does make sense since it only acts up on me when it's hot and here in Illinois it's like -10 and it's running like a dream. Oh well I guess I will just keep fining things until there isn't anything left.
  • seansjeepseansjeep Member Posts: 14
    I still remember this discussion and I had similar problems. I also polished the throttle body up and cleaned the Idle Air Control Modual. It was pretty much all carbon. I also still noticed not much difference as it pertained to the problem I was having. Later I finally had a mechanic help me diagnose the problem. As I suspected, it was nothing too dramatic. Seems as tho there was a loose and dirty ground connection (all grounds lead to a bracket??) which caused the O2 sensors to fail and inturn the check engine light came on and the false mixture caused the engine to idle irraticly at times and not respond to throttle at all when accelerating. Maybe there is a ground wire loose on yours aswel causing perpendicular problems. I am driving 500km on New years eve and will definately find out during that trip wether or not that was in fact the problem, but so far so good! Good luck and Jeep it up!
  • buwadibuwadi Member Posts: 2
    I am planing to buy a new Jeep, 2005. So, I want to know if there is any repeated problems in the transmission or no.

    thanks for the help.
  • wheatley1wheatley1 Member Posts: 15
    The best advise I can give you is to give your sound system an upgrade and order one from Crutchfield, plus when you get the new unit it should have a wiring diagram. Most of the stereos that I have installed(atleast 10) have a standard color coded wiring harness.
  • bigwilliesjeepbigwilliesjeep Member Posts: 19
    Hey i got a 2000 Cherokee with the straight six i was looking at getting one of those Edge Performance Module chips does anyone no about them good or bad for the price, improve or decrease gas mileage,etc....
  • bigwilliesjeepbigwilliesjeep Member Posts: 19
    I have a 00 and a 94 cherokee both with auto trans, and the 4.0l straight six my 94 has the original trans with 185000 miles or so on it and it is the stock trans all i did was regular maintenance.....But i honestly dont no about the new libertys, and grand cherokees
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    In order for anyone to answer your question, we really need to know which Jeep and which tranny option you are considering.
  • schmittschmitt Member Posts: 1
    I am planning on buying a stock 94 jeep cherokee with a 4.0 I6. its getting a 5" lift with i think 34" tires. want it for mudding crawling and driving what do u think? And I dont mind driving stick all the time but is it better to have a manual trans or automatic trans when u are doing hard off roading?
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    There are positives to each tranny. I personally prefer a stick due to the control I have over it. Sticks are much better on downhill grades as I can drop it into first and let the engine do the braking. And, in some really extreme situations, I have seen automatics loose their fluid pickup, leaving the Jeep stuck. However, the flip side is that you sometimes have to work three pedals with two feet, such as on a steep uphill start. Another drawback to a stick are those situations where you need to crawl along at some speed slower than what first gear will allow you. That's where you have to ride the clutch. A third downside is where you need lots of wheel speed, such as mud bogging. It's really hard to shift in the middle of a mud bog without loosing wheel speed. If I were to build the "ultimate to me" offroader, I would probably choose an auto for its advantages, eventhough I prefer manual trannies.

    I know several guys that drive their offroad rigs everyday, and most do it without too many adverse on road handling effects. First off, your gas mileage will stink. A 5" lift on an XJ, that's a Cherokee, is not out of the question. However, you probably will have to install a Slip Yoke Eliminator and a new rear CV driveshaft to accomodate the steeper driveline angles. You may, or may not, have to install a longer front driveshaft. Are you planning on trimming the fenders? I hope so if you want to stuff 34" tires under it. I'm pretty sure you will have to trim the fenders with anything larger than 31" or 32" tires. But you may want to research that on your own.

    Just my $0.02 worth.
  • unekgalunekgal Member Posts: 15
    I was wondering if there is a way to make the dome light come on when the back doors are opened? The only time the dome light comes on is when either of the doors in front are opened, but it doesn't come on when the hatch or the back doors open.
  • unekgalunekgal Member Posts: 15
    My back door automatic lock keeps sticking, especially in the winter months. Is there some grease fitting or something?
  • sbmackiesbmackie Member Posts: 7
    T-chop,
    I'm no expert, but: With that many miles on it, try to get mx records, especially recall compliance (there haven't been that many) and fluid replacement. If it's had regular mx, the engine/drivetrain is darn near bulletproof, with the possible exception of the rear differential. Cherokee's tend to "hum" above about 100 KPH, so be prepared for that. Also, look for corrosion on the inside lower door panels.
    Word of encouragement: While you skim over/plow through the heather, rocks, and mud, you can giggle at your Latte drinkin', pinky in the air, toff Land Rover drivin' mates who are well and truly STUCK--both in the mud and with an onerous payment...
    Scott (of the Clan McKay, I think)
    Albuquerque, NM
  • bigwilliesjeepbigwilliesjeep Member Posts: 19
    My 00' Cherokee has 4.5" of lift and i am running 32x11.50R15 tires on a 4" back spacing. I did minor trimming because the tire would rub on hard turns especialy at speeds higher the 5mph. You will be able to fit diffrent size tires depending on the backspacing. The only reason why my tires rubbed was because i have a little wider stants then most people get, (Just looks better). With a 4.5" lift you do not have to get a slip yoke as long as you shime the rear axle, and get heavy duty u-joints. I got mine from napa and they work great no noises whatsoever. Anything higher then that i can guarentee that you will have some type of driveline vibration. I drive my rig pretty much every day to work and back and occasionally on long trips only thing that sucks is gas mileage 12miles to the gallon.

    And has anyone heard anything about the Edge Performance Module????
  • bigwilliesjeepbigwilliesjeep Member Posts: 19
    I would recomend spraying them down with a super lube. GM had a recall on some models for the same thing and the recall fix procedur was to spray the lock assembly down with super lube, and i mean soak the suckers. If you really want to i would recomend taking the lock mechanism out of the door cleaning, drying, and spraying it down.
  • thorsnakethorsnake Member Posts: 14
    My all Jeep mechanic is crazy. He says any other spark plug besides the OEM champion plugs will cause the service light to come on. I have to replace these cheap plugs every 6-10k. I was wondering what other plugs are good, that people have used with no problems? I have used in cars split-fires with no problems, and they seemed to last for years with decent performence. Any one try the new Bosh plugs, are they any good? Any recomendations would be great!
  • thorsnakethorsnake Member Posts: 14
    I was wondering will bushwacker fender flares allow a larger tire, on a 99XJ? I want a small lift 2-3" to fit 31" tires, to avoid drive line vibration. I was wondering if bushwacker fender flares will allow a larger tire? Like a 32" with 2-3"'s of lift? Plus do these flares require any cuting, or do they just bold in?
  • bigwilliesjeepbigwilliesjeep Member Posts: 19
    Depending on the flare that you get from bushwacker depends on if you cut or not. The Bushwacker Cut-out flares require cutting and allow you to cut UP to 2 inches out of your fender well. Not a clean 2 inches however. Also you can buy just regular fender flares from bushwacker but they will not allow you to fit larger tires due to the fact that you are not cutting any sheet metal away. If you go to Bushwacker.com and check out the diffrent types of flares for jeeps you will see exactly how the cut-out flares work. But i figure this if you go with a 3 inch lift and get the cut out flares you might be able to fit 32s depending on the backspacing which plays a key part that alot of people forget about. But i personally would do 3 inch with the cut out flares and a 4 inch backspacing with 31x12.50
  • timmo58timmo58 Member Posts: 1
    i need to replace my front axel u joints both of them are bad loose is this something i could do or would i have to pay the shop 45.00 an hour to sit and drink coffee how hard is it ? also where does the rear window wiper get the washer fluid from , i guess the front but it dont squirt in the back ?just purchased this jeep on christmas eve ,for my wife thought i got a good deal asking price was 3500 and i got the guy down to 2800 as it needs the u joints in the front axel replaced... a common four wheel drive problem ,and i would do it if its not to hard in my upstate ny back yard in a foot a snow would it be something i could get done at a dealer for less trouble ? how much?
  • face007face007 Member Posts: 1
    I ran out of gas the other day and noticed that my mileage on my odometer(trip) was reset to zero and that when I come to a dead start....my vehicle goes from idling at 800-900 to around 460......and then tries to cut off.
    Other than that....the vehicle runs great!

    What is going on and how do I fix it without getting a mechanic to try to "replace" everything.....

    Thanks in advance!
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Your '96 could be different than my '01. But try pushing up on the dome light that is over the cargo area. Mine has a swith built in to that light that allows you to turn the dome light off when you have the lift gate up. If you hear a click, the lights should come on.
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