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HAve you made any progress on your freeze plug problem? I also have a 1998 CHerokee 4L. Leak - replaced freeze plugs - a few days go by - and leaking again!
So far I have charged the battery, then replaced it. I recrimped the battery cable and have checked the voltage at the battery, fuse box, and alternator. It all looks fine. The car does not want to turn over at all. The battery cable wire get really hot when we try.
What should we look at next. Any advise/diagnosis would be greatly appreciated.
MasonJeep08
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cherokee/xjtech/jeepspeedfaq/
"The transfer cases used are all chain driven with aluminum housings. NP stands for "New Process" which is the brand, if you will. The newer ones are NV instead which stands for "New Venture". It is the same transfer case just a different name.
NP207 - "Command-Trac" part-time only - 2.61:1 ratio low range - used 84-87
NP231 - "Command-Trac" part-time only - 2.72:1 ratio low range - shift pattern 2H - 4H - N - 4L - used 87-01
NP228/NP229 - "Selec-Trac" - 4Hi(full-time) - N - 4Lo (part-time) - used 84-87
NP242 - "Selec-Trac" part-time OR full-time - 2.72:1 ratio low range - shift pattern 2wd - 4part-time - 4full-time - N - 4LO - used 87-01"
If you want to use 4WD on dry hard surfaces, I think you want Select-Trac. You probably can find more info on the each at that site.
Just off the top, I'd look at either a jambed up/locked up starter motor or a locked up engine. You should be able to put a socket and rachet wrench on the harmonic balancer bolt and rotate the engine fairly easily. The harmonic balancer is the large belt pulley on the bottom of the engine.
MasonJeep08
MasonJeep08
:sick:
If the rest of the Jeep were in really good shape, I'd say go for it. But then I'm a Jeep nut, and I'd rebuild and replace the engine myself. And I'd also know the condition of the tranny and t-case. There are too many variables for me to tell you what to do.
If the rest of the Jeep is in good shape, and depending on the mileage and what other goodies are on it, someone would give you $750 to $1,000 for parts or to build it up as a trail rig. If it's beat all to heck and has a ton of miles on it, then you might be stuck.
Good luck.
from. (slim chance) or rebuilding the engine in my garage. Does anyone have
a REALLY good book or manual for rebuilding the engine. It's an inline 6.
It's been a long time 20+ years since I worked tore down an engine.
Thanks,
I'd also recommend the Haynes or Chiltons manuals. That are available at any discount auto parts stores for around $20. A factory service manual is the way to go, but those are considerably more. Since you have experience, the cheaper manual may be all you need. Really all you'll need are the tolerances and torque specs anyway.
Any thoughts?
I didn't think the oil was related ether but I thought I should mention it just in case.
MasonJeep08
link title
Can anyone with experience using a cherokee to tow give me any advice? It towing something this size a pipe dream or a real possiblity?
Trailer brakes are probably the most important factor in this equation. 'Cause it don't matter how you get down the road if you can't stop when you get there, or when someone pulls out in front of you. Get a good brake controller. I suggest the Tekonsha Prodigy, but there have been some newer ones that may be even better. You don't want to skimp on the controller. Next, you already have the weight distributing hitch, so you should be good to go there. In addition to the hitch setup, you'll probably want to add sway control. A travel trailer can really push the tow vehicle around in high crosswinds or with passing trucks. My particular setup, the Wrangler on a flatbed, tows very straight with little or no sway. I can't say the same for my little 10' popup camper! What is your gear ratio? Mine is 3.55 and does ok, however I wish mine were 3.73 or even a 4.11. The frontal area of your trailer could cause it to wind load more at highway speeds, so a higher numbered ratio could be necessary. You won't know that until you tow it a few times. Next is the tranny. Change your tranny fluid often when you tow. Install as big of a tranny cooler as you can fit behind the grill. Mine is a B&M that literally covers half the radiator. Route the cooler lines so that the tranny fluid coming out of the tranny goes through the cooler first, then through the factory cooler in the radiator, then back to the tranny. Do it this way, or the fluid may get too cold in the winter. You don't have to install a tranny temp gauge, but I highly suggest it. A tranny temp gauge let you "see" just how hard you are working the tranny. Out on the highway with the tranny in "D", not "OD", my temps run very close whether towing or not. However, in town, or when climbing a steep grade, basically anytime the torque convertor unlocks, the temps will start climbing. Thats where you have to watch the temps. You'll cook a tranny quicker in those situations than any other.
Another factor is your location. If you're in the mountains or hills, then you may want to get another opinion. If you're a flatlander, such as myself, then the Cherokee should handle it just fine.
What I'm concerned about, and you should be too, is what metal pieces came loose in the brakes. Those pieces could be vital to the operation of your rear brakes. Without seeing it for myself, I can't possibly tell you what it is. With that many miles on your XJ, you probably should replace everything inside the drum anyway. You can get a complete rebuild kit at AutoZone or Advance for around $50 for both sides. If the wheel cylinders have never been replaced, then this is a good time to do that as well.
Get together with the guy that did the brake work.
I hate it when that happens. We've all been there in some form or fashion. I'm glad you found the problem and it was nothing major.
My 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee (2WD) has started idling VERY high on random starts. Anywhere between 2000 and 2500 RPM for about 10 seconds.
Goodyear and a Dodge/Chrysler dealership have hookup up the computers and can find nothing wrong. Chrysler tech conferred with a Jeep Service Dept manager (a 5-star dealership) and was told this is common in "older" Jeep models and is normal.
1. I just don't buy the fact that an 02 Jeep is old enough for the computer to start making the idle race like that.
2. This could not be a NORMAL function of the car.
I believe the computer diags are saying there's no problem but obviously SOMETHING is off.
For his part the Jeep Service guy told our Dodge/Chrysler service tech that one could replace all kinds of Idle Airs etc and it would only make a marginal impact on the symptoms for the dollars lost.
Anyone have experience with this type of symptoms? Suggestions and input from you all would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Chuck
Second thing would be too make sure the throttle plate is returning to its fully closed position everytime. If you've got a lot of carbon buildup inside the throttle body, it's entirely possible the throttle plate isn't returning to it's idle position when you take your foot off the accelerator. Corrosion on the return spring or other parts of the throttle body/throttle cable could also be the culprit. Also, check to make sure the cruise control and transmission kick-down cables move freely. They could be binding up at random intervals.
Third thing is the Idle Air Control motor/valve. It's located on the side of the throttle body facing the engine block. If you're standing in front of the Jeep looking at the throttle body, the IAC valve will be at the 9:00 position, the Throttle Position Sensor will be at the 12:00 position and the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor will be at the 3:00 position. Take the IAC valve off and clean it with an approved cleaner.
Keep us posted.
You probably won't be able to see them from up top. So slide under the Jeep and look up at the drivers side of the engine. Look for two metal canisters about the size of a coffee can. The two lower O2 sensors are really easy to get at, the two upper ones could be a little more challenging.
The last repair (the replacement of u joints and right side ball bearings) cost me $1,100 cdn, and now I'm back to square one. I'm wondering if anyone here knows a good mechanic in Toronto (Ontario, Canada) who knows Jeeps inside and out. Also would I have recourse in court for a job done to repair something that didn't need repair, although the mechanic may claim the parts needed replacement. I would assume many parts of my old jeep will need to be replaced eventually, but if I do not request the change, then why would mechanics assume I would have to pay for their mistake?
Anyway, what other parts make a clanking noise when the wheels are turned?