Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Jeep Cherokee

1…4547495051

Comments

  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    i agree with the other poster,,your vacum control isn't getting any vacum..
    as a safety setting,all heater controls sold in the u.s ,and operated by vacum must go to defrost ,because that's the setting that you need if all else fails(witch it has)
    :lemon: ..find the vacum line coming from the firewall going to the engine manifold,or a vacum terminal block,and see if it has either fallen off(witch will also give you a vacum leak,making the engine run lean-poor idle,ect),and trim it back just enough to where it's not as dried out,and not cracked/broken..while there,check all your vacum connections for leaks..
    ..for serious vacum leaks,i used to use a foaming engine cleaner..spray foam around where you suspected leak is,and start the engine..the foam starts disapearing where the vacum leak is!!..the bonus is where you clean some of the filth from the engine compartment!..i've found bad carberator gaskets,and manifold leaks that way..good luck! :)
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    recently aquired this abandoned project with a TON of spare parts,thinking i should be able to glue it back together-despite this being my first jeep..i was mistaken..
    --despite a great body,especially for a 90,and the engine compartment looking like at least SOME regular maintenence had been done,it has become a lawn ornament,a driveway sculpture,rather than a functioning mode of transport..
    ..i've discovered the engine -or "power control module",located inside,next to the radio and heater controls,and the gas pedal-is missing!!..two trunk leads,with two large connectors are lying on the floor,(60 pin,and 40-some pins)..
    QUESTION:..AM I TOTALLY HOSED??
    while talking to the man i got it from,my guess was it needed a new fuel pump,witch i've done before,along with some fairly serious wiring,but some people i've talked to say this module has to be specific to this car-right down to the serial number,and the want several hundred dollars for a module..
    as i've never heard this thing run,and have no idea how mutch more would be involved in breathing life back into this thing-besides the fuel pump..
    my one hope is the fella i got it from might find the module in the barn,witch i still hope might happen..
    other than that,what are the chances of getting one from the bone yard that would work??
    or am i spinning around the bowl,and down the hole??
    thanks for any advice. :sick:
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    i've got the body and service manuals from chrystler-but you need a degree in engineering to figure it out..for a 1990 cherokee
    what i could figure out was if the origional jacks are there for the origional speakers,(a) is in+, and (B) is out-..mebee that will help,short of a volt/ohmm meter.. ;)
  • engineproblemengineproblem Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee w/ 85K miles that recently began having problems with the front end shaking out of control. At first the pulsations began while I was braking from 60 to 50mph, but then progressed to uncontrollable shaking (the car literally felt like it was going to fall apart).

    I first took the Jeep in and had the rotors grinded, but then 2 days later the uncontrollable shaking happened again when I wasn't even braking. I took it in again, to a new shop, and had the front brakes and rotors replaced. The mechanic also fixed the U-joint in the front right axle thinking that this could also be causing the problem. Unfortunately, neither of these repairs solved the problem. The Jeep still shakes uncontrollably at high speeds or after going over a bump in the road. The mechanic is out of suggestions and I'm having the Jeep transferred to a body shop to have it checked out.

    If anyone has any suggestions as to what is causing the problem or how to fix it, I would really appreciate it.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    from reading the forum here,this is a regular problem..two things to check..u-joints in the front driveshaft,and the steering dampner-the shock absorber-lookin-thing on the steering.linkage...also,maybe rotate the tires front to back,as you may have "cupped" the tires when it was shaking...good luck!!
  • jeepster15jeepster15 Member Posts: 4
    I had a similar problem. In my case, I needed to replace both front wheel bearings. Mine crapped out about 100K and got real bad by 120K. Just another item to check into.
  • rustymullins53rustymullins53 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. did you ever figure it out?
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    in your other post,you said"

    I had a similar problem. In my case, I needed to replace both front wheel bearings. Mine crapped out about 100K and got real bad by 120K. Just another item to check into."
    did fixing the wheel bearings-both sides fix the shaking?? :confuse:
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    forgot what i said in that post,but,no-i still don't have a body key for my cherokee..ny main problem seems to go back to the power command module-the computer just above the gas pedal..mine is missing,and from what i find here,it's a royal pain to get one that matches and works..
    sometimes i long for the old days when you put in plugs,points,cap,rotor,a fresh air filter,change the oil,and was set for another season...computers are better-but only while they work..when you've got to start reprograming them,you've gone from be=ing a knuckle-bustin-grease monkey to a data entry person..the two aren't always harmonious.. :shades:
  • jeepboy96jeepboy96 Member Posts: 1
    Hi i have just bought a standard jeep cherokee bull bar for my jeep on a 96 plate and im not mecanicly minded and wondered if any of you guys could tell me how to fit it Please and what size bolts i would need please. diagram would be nice thank you very much John :confuse:
  • smpipersmpiper Member Posts: 1
    Hello all...
    I have a 1989 Jeep Cherokee Laredo and it shuts off while I am driving it. I was stopped at a stoplight and it just turned off. Got someone to help push it into a parking lot with me and within about 10 minutes it started back up. This is the second time in four months that it's happened, but the first time it started as quickly as it shut off, as soon as i realized it turned off, it turned itself back on. After the second time i went straight to a car store and had them check the alternator and battery, but they are both fine. Any advice as to what it may be?
  • eckmaneckman Member Posts: 1
    i have a "95" cherokee, :confuse: the problem, the wiring connection has melted down,i replaced the unit, but could not replace the plug,due to there is not enough wire to work with inside the little space in the dash area. does this mean i'll have to replace the whole harness? and what caused this melt down to begin with. also, would I be able to by-pass the belt connecting the compressor as i don't need to have the a/c,which don't work anyway. thanks for any help.
  • lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    Wanna bet its the crankshaft position sensor? Steve and Tidester, where do I put that
    permanent post? :) Well, its is on the back of the bell housing at 11:00 position. Takes 4 feet of extensions to get to comfortably.Costs about 60 dollars. Get a Haynes manual and it will tell you how to test it. Mine failed both tests. Yes it's easier to test it than it is to replace it. You can test it from under the hood, but have to replace it from under the car. Good luck, not a hard thing to do! Re-post if you have any more questions!
    Happy wrenching!
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Steve and Tidester, where do I put that permanent post?

    We have the next best thing. Consider it cast in silicon! :shades:

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • cantfindcantfind Member Posts: 1
    ok now i have gone to well every auto store in town and even called a dealer i am so lost i need to know whare the temp sending unit is on a '89 jeep cherokee pioneer now i know what you are thinking what an idiot but it is not in the thermostat housing and i pulled what i think the part to be is and no one can find any part that looks close to the same thing the guy at our local auto zone had to look through the books wna still nothing so please help this lost person i would like to know how hot i am running when i have a plugged radiator and not much money to buy a new one
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    WOW!!.. took a while to find it-even with the engine service manual from chrystler!!..you can tell engineers wrote this one!(haha)
    --assuming you have a 4.0 six cylinder,the thermal sending unit is on the driver's side of the engine block,under the exhaust manifold,a inch or so above the oil pan,about 3/4 the way towards the front of the engine..there should obviously be a wire going to it,so it should be easy to find now..
    make shure it's well cooled off,and get a drain pan to catch the anti freeze..you'd be better off to have the new one ready to go in,as from what i read,getting the air out of the cooling system can get tricky..
    --i'd get the old one loose,and be reanoably shure the new one has the same electrical connector,pull the old one ,and while it's gonna leak all over you,put the new one in as fast,and straight as possible!..
    DO NOT CROSS THREAD IT!!..if you thread it with your hand,it usually won't cross thread..
    good luck!! :shades:
  • cdesha1cdesha1 Member Posts: 2
    I blew the engine in my 98 Cherokee 4.0, so I bought a used 98 Wrangler 4.0 engine to replace it... Well it turns out the entire accessory system is different on the Wrangler engine so I had to swap out the Alternator and A/C compressor mounting brackets, the water pump pulley, along with three of the front cover bolts. I also used the old power steering bracket. I have tried every belt size you could imagine and I can't seem to find the correct size. The belt for the Wrangler is too big and the Cherokee belt is way too big... If anyone has done this or just happens to know the correct belt size, please help...
    Thanks.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    i assume that you have a serptine belt and are probly trying to install it wrong the cherokee belt should be the right one if you changed the mounts from your old engine i know the smoth side has to drive the water pump so it snakes around over the top of the pully
  • cdesha1cdesha1 Member Posts: 2
    lol! Thank you for bringing that up, I just looked up the diagram and i did in fact have it wrong... Thank you very much
  • fisherpatfisherpat Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 JCS and have the same problem with shudder when I go over 55mph. Has there been any answer to your questions as to which axle shaft or driveshaft. My question would be,,,,why don't the Jeep dealerships know about this problem.????? :surprise:
  • jabrocakjabrocak Member Posts: 1
    Hi guys, i just found this forum and it's been great reading it! I have a 95 jeep cherokee sport, 4.0L, straight 6..199K...blah blah.

    i too was having front end issues for a while, and the shimmies at 50-55mph. new tires/rotate helped but there was also a crack in my track bar.. just thought id throw that out there since it seems a lot of people here were having problems with that.

    anyways! i was just out getting some food and went to make a turn and discovered my jeep was very difficult to turn.. i stopped, checked my gauges (everything seemed fine) and started up again. same problem, very hard to turn so i pulled over and thats when i noticed antifreeze spewing everywhere. just wondering if anyone knew what this could be? i plan on taking it to my mechanic on pay day, but was interested to see if anyone had any ideas. hopefully its nothing major.
  • lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    Just where was it spewing antifreeze from?
    Hose, water pump, etc.
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Hi everyone, I'm back again with more ac problems...I have a 99 Cherokee 4.0 with 123k. AC died last year, Dealer said the evap coil was leaking and would cost $1200. passed on that and had it sealed and charged professionally this year at a local mechanic. Its been ice cold since April but this week it started to blow COOL but not COLD. One would think the leak is back causing the change, but I put a guage on the low side and its cycling between 55 and 80 PSI, which indicates overcharge, I have not added anything to it since the Mechanic charged it. I am not seeing a drain puddle underneath the car anymore or on the floor, but the compressor is cycling. The aluminum lines are frosting up, but not the condensor ( or whatever that bottle shaped part is at the firewall on the passenger side.) Any Thoughts? Thanks, Ryan
  • fatboybryanfatboybryan Member Posts: 1
    Got the handbrake idiot light on, checke pads shoes and fluid level. All look good and function properly. Do you know what else causes that light to be on? And yes handbrake is off
  • bigflan99bigflan99 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I have a 1991 Jeep Cheerokee XJ. The steering gear has breen creaking for some time now. Everytime I turn the wheel it pops and groans. My question is: are the steering gears servicable? If so where? I can't find any openings other than power steering.
  • mikevt1mikevt1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 cherokee 4.0. I have had it for only a little while. Already I have fixed the vacuum hose for the heating/ac and replaced a fuse for the blower motor. Can I get a A/C recharge kit and fill it myself, could have sworn someone told me I would have to take it to someone??

    Also I noticed yesterday that there was something hanging down from under my front bumper. I got under there and it looks like a dust guard or debris guard that protects rock kick up from getting into the belt area it is not going to go back up (its worn). What is it and where can I get another I live in the desert in arizona and there is a real need for it here??

    Send me an email through my name mikevt1 above. I appreciate it
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Looks like I had a faulty guage to check pressure with, the system was low on freon and got nice and cool when I added a little freon, The AC is the only real problem I have had with this Jeep for 6 years now, but its been a pain since day one.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    the brake light,just like a oil light,works when it gets a ground.. to check it,unplug the wire going to the switch that turns it on..on the brake system,there is also a wire going to the proporting"splitter" valve..it's where the front and back brakes split-follow the lines down from the master cylinder..there should be a wire there..if you unplug that wire,and the light goes off,you may need to bleed the brakes,or have them serviced professionally..
    ..try unplugging theswitch on the hand brake first..whatever switch you unplug-then the light goes off,that's where your problem is..
    electrical problems can be some of the most difficult things to track down..

    of course,you could always do the un-approved method,and pull the bulb!!(lol)!! :sick:
  • torrymendozatorrymendoza Member Posts: 7
    I recently had my rear drum brakes replaced, everything's new, lines, drums, everything. I replaced the from disc brakes with my brother, but the rear brakes squeal like crazy once I get moving. I'd say after about 5 - 10 minutes they become audible. Does anyone know what might be causing this or if this will go away?
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    That's not good. Your description indicates to me that something inside the drum is loose or improperly installed. I would pull the wheels and look inside the drums for signs of metal to metal contact (such as metal filings or places that are ground down by rubbing contact).
  • bricksiebricksie Member Posts: 3
    I smell anit-freeze inside the cabin of my 2002 Grand Cherokee. I suspect the heater core is leaking. Any info on how to get at it? Like a schematic or drawing showing bolts and parts? It looks pretty buried.
  • lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    Your suspicions are probably correct. I would suggest getting the manual, as that will be no picnic pulling the dash, If that's the case. If you don't smoke, I suggest you start, if you don't drink, I suggest you start. :P 'Cause it is an all day event and usually requires two people. Just to let you know, Ido feel your pain, because I too have been smelling antifreeze in the cockpit of my Nissan Pathfinder. I suspect I will have to pull the dash soon.Good luck!
    David
  • dmphildmphil Member Posts: 5
    The floor of the front passenger side gets very wet. I am convinced it is connected to the air condlitioning. Any way to fix this yourself? Has anyone else had this problem?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    It could be a disconnected air conditioning drain hose. Perhaps a Cherokee owner can tell you how to check and fix. Anyone?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    a two year old jeep,with a bad heater core??it has happened..,but,your suspicion of the blocked condensation drain might be it as well..
    my advice-if you plan on keeping this jeep for any length of time,and/or fixing stuff yourself-go back to the dealer,and get the body service manual for your model..this is the book written by the people who designed and built it..
    i've worked on a lot of old stuff,ans having the book from the builders is a valuable thing..they can show you how to get to the "secret" bolts they always seem to hide in places i'd normally never think to look..most of those haynes and chilton manuals are so generic,they seldom help when you get up under the dash,and need to find that mystery screw..
    --one other source might be THE LOCAL LIBRARY!!..i once found service manuals for a packard!!..aparently,some old mecanic had donated his collection..they shure were handy!!..try there!!?! :shades:
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    It's probably a disconnected or blocked drain hose as said by Tidester. If no water dripping on the ground after the A/C has been running awhile, then that's the problem. You may try posting this question in one of the GRAND Cherokee threads where more GC owners will see your post and chime in.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    1990 Cherokee Classic, 125,000 miles, and when starting, it turns over excessively before finally starting, probably about 5-10 seconds. It doesn't require any mashing of the throttle or anything, it just turns over for a while and then kicks on just as it should, and idles perfectly fine.

    It does this even right after shutting it off, which I think is weird.

    The plugs, wires, and I'm pretty sure distributor are new, and it looks like the PVC system was replaced right before I bought it.

    I have friends with Jeeps and none of them require the length to start. They just fire right up first crank.

    It doesn't worry me TOO much, because it always starts, but it gets extremely annoying.

    Any ideas??
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    two things come to mind..fuel pump pressure,and a stuck/plugged start injetor.
    ---get thee down to the auto zone,and see if your omputer has been throwing out trouble codes..see what they say..mom's shi-vole-t (chebby) cranked till she wore out both the starter and the flywheel starter ring on her 89 baretta,from a clogged start injctor in the trottle body.from running CHEAP AZZED GASOLINE!!..i mean,while you'r pumping,can't you tell the diffrence in the smell of the cheap stuff,and when you put a tank of the good stuff??at $4/gal,is 20 cents per gallon make a difrence??but mine starts better -especially in winter-on marathon premium.asking a old car to run on crappy gas is just BEGGING for trouble..i even seem to get better mileage by using the goods,t balances out for me..it won't do it on one or two tanks,but after three,see if it runs better..also,dump in some octane boost/injector cleaner-YES,THE EXPENSIVE STUFF!!..that 2-for-1-for.99 cents stuff doesn't work as well as the b-12 for 3.50,or the stuff lucas puts out...cleaner will help,but it's not a -rebuilt-injector-in-a-can...if it's broke-fix it..
    --also,with todays cars,especially with something thats giving you trouble.try turning on the key-for at least a -five-count..(turn key on-count to five-out loud if you need to)..this will give the fuel pump a chance to bring the pressure up ,...
    --if this helps,your fuel pump is getting weak,and you should plan on replacing it --SOON--..before you get to do what dyslexic ford drivers do
    D river
    R eturns
    O n
    F oot
    --i drive a ford,and that one still gives me a chuckle!!
    hope this helps you track your troubles down
    o N
  • 98grandc98grandc Member Posts: 2
    Hello
    Did you ever get an answer to if the steering gear is servicable?
    I have a 98 Grand Cherokee that has a lot of movement in steering wheel when driving.
    I am wanting to find out if this play can be adjusted out.
    If it can, how is it done.
    Thanks
  • 98grandc98grandc Member Posts: 2
    I have a similar issue with my 98 Grand Cherokee 4 Liter engine.
    When cold there is 3 possible ways to start.
    1) Let starter motor turn for about 5 or 10 seconds.
    2) Try initial start but only to turn over engine then turn key back and then turn over again, engine then starts up on this second turn of the key.
    3) Turn key to run position, wait 2 seconds and then turn over, engine starts right up.

    Does anyone have advise on what needs to be changed to correct this minor but frustrating issue?
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    Thanks, but I run at least mid-grade fuel and NEVER arco fuel. usually shell or chevron. I put a thing of lucas injector cleaner in it already, didn't make a difference. Its just weird that it cranks so long, but starts fine when it does. and idles smoothly.

    Also, leaving the key on before starting doesn't change a thing either.
  • everyday1everyday1 Member Posts: 1
    I just got an 04 Laredo with 43K miles on it and when I switch out of park to drive or reverse there is a grind type noise. I also have it when I'm going from brake to gas. Can someone tell me what is going on? thanks
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    sounds like pressure is good..assume you've changed filters..maybe electrical..i've seen on this blog where the engine crank sensor-the one that's mounted at the flywheel-could they have picked a more-pain in the butt-place for that?
    did you have them check for trouble codes?..if that engine crankshaft position sensor is getting tired,it'd show up as a trouble code..the auto zone's here do it for free..jeep gets a couple hundred-just to run a test,then you hear where they do a "update" on your computer-that makes it run slower and worse?!??!!
    good luck with it :shades: !
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    i'd check all the fluids-transferr case,differentials,ect..then,try putting the transferr case in low-like maybe it wasn't in gear all the way..
    look at your u-joints..
    if it makes noise between decell and accel,it's probably a u-joint,or the ring gear in the rearend..thats why it's so important to check fluid levels-especially in the rearend..i see a lot of jeeps for sale -where all it needs is a third member..could be whats going on with yours!? :sick:
  • krell04krell04 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 Jeep Cherokee 4L Straight 6. This just started today, when I get the engine started. It seems to run real high for no reason that I can think of.. I drove it to the store and when I left, it started.. Has anyone had this happen or knows what I can do to fix it.. Also, when I start the engine, it sometimes just whirrs (kinda like, if you turn the key when it is already running..) and stops..
  • mjgirardmjgirard Member Posts: 10
    I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee and it just turned 150,000 miles and I wanted some info from anyone with similar Jeep's. Will this Jeep perform good enough for the next couple of years on the highway without any major concerns so that my daughter can use it at college? It runs great now and has always had maintenance and repairs taken care of on time. My big concern is the mileage and her being out of town. It is a 2WD with 4.0L six, a/c and not much else.

    Thanks for the advice and information.
    MJGirard
  • fisherpatfisherpat Member Posts: 7
    I had a 1989 jeep cherokee limited. When I gave it to my nephew it had 314,800 miles on it. Still had original engine and running gear. Ran great. I always took care of it and had maint as required. I now have a 2000 cherokee and hope it does the same for me. It too will receive the needed care. Good luck.
  • 7963bill7963bill Member Posts: 3
    I recently replaced the crankshaft posittion sensor on a 96 cherokee 4.0 to cure a no spark condition. Found that taking the front driveshaft lose and holding it out of the way with bailing wire was well worth the extra effort. I could actually reach the bolts with both fingertips with one arm in the engine compartment and one arm coming up from the transmission side.
  • lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    Jeeze man! You have really long arms! :) Just kidding I know what you mean! It does sound easier that way!
  • 7963bill7963bill Member Posts: 3
    I'm 6'2" and do have extra long arms.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles