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Jeep Cherokee

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Comments

  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    I agree. Commonly known to Jeep owners as the "death wobble".
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    the oil sending unit is higher than the oil level ,so-other than a few drops-it ain't gonna leak loke when you pull the oil drain plug..
    --ALSO!! NEVER-NEVER run ANY of that 5wxx oil!! this stuff wasn't even used as break in oil back in the -70's..it's too thin!!..
    -as a extremely poor person-forced to drive other's throw aways,and have bought more than one car,where despite what i thought was a decent test drive-when -80 degree weather hit-i'd start hearing a rod knocking..one car was so bad,and my need for a running car were so desprate,i ran straight sae 50 in it..it lasted me over two years!..not too bad for a 500.car..
    --why the manufacturers recomend this thin-crappy oil is two fold..one is,a engine running thinner oil will get a ounce better gas mileage,raising their corprate fuel mileage..--second,running 5w20 oil ,the engine will only last about 100,00 miles-at best,and that's when they want you back in the showroom,so they can sell you a NEW one..making cars last doesn't do their bottom line any good,-it's called "planned obsolecense"..that's why fuel pumps-witch are a ROYAL pain to replace-only last about 80,000..
    --if you want what you got to last,use the heavier oil,put in the zmax,don't put that cheap crappy gas in a old car(duuuuh!!)heavy synthetic-a10 or 15w40-50 in a jeep should keep it putting along for many good miles,-it won't help when you roll it down the hill sideways,but-ya can't have everything!!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Oil's a lot better now than it was in the 70's. Back then you were pushing your luck to go 2,000 miles on a 10W40 oil. And the 5W just means how it will flow in the winter (the "w" stands for winter). It'll have the viscosity of the second number when the oil is hot.
  • jeepgirl3jeepgirl3 Member Posts: 10
    My boyfriend and I are having a bit of an arguement that I would like someone to settle. I have a 1994 Jeep Cherokee with 237,000 miles on it. I have lovingly taken care of it for 10 years, but it is getting a little feeble. About 4 years ago I had to replace the entire cooling system (water pump, radiator, clutch fan, thermostat and housing and all the hose lines), I did it myself in the front yard, so I have an intimate knowledge of how it all works. Last summer I had some overheating issues and had to replace the clutch fan again and since everything has been fine.

    Fine, until my boyfriend drove it for several hours coming home from vacation (OBX to Maryland). We were loaded to the roof and had two large kayaks on the top, one of the largest loads the Jeep has ever had to haul. My boyfriend likes to drive as fast as possible, so I'd say between 80 and 85 MPH, he also made it down shift to pass other vehicles at this speed. Needless to say, it got too hot. He says there is something still wrong with it. Is there, or is he expecting too much from a 1994 Cherokee? I usually drive it at about 65 MPH and never have any problems. Not even in stop and go traffic where the engine is not getting
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    he also made it down shift to pass other vehicles at this speed

    Redlining is probably not a good idea!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    my opinion,he was running her hard,and the extra load-along with climbing grades hard,made her get hot..
    --did it hurt it?,or is it still running-the way you normally drive it?
    -downshifting for power is better than "lugging" the engine..(from a old bus driver running the las vegas run many times)..saw many "city drivers" try todrive the desert grades in drive,while i had to downshift-and would burn up their motors!..
    -downshifting isn't nesiserially bad,but watch the tackometer-and don't "redline"-especially an old,tired engine..you gotta be easy on old stuff-if you want it to last..it'd be like taking a old horse-loading it down,and expecting it to run the kentucky derby!
    i agree with you..take it easy on old gear-if you want it to last!! :shades:
  • karpindurkarpindur Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2001 Cherokee with 158,000 miles on it. Like you, I have tried to take good care of it. After taking such good care of yours, how did it feel to see it being brutalized by your boyfriend? Keep that dude out of your Jeep.
  • yeats66yeats66 Member Posts: 5
    Hello...I am new to this group. I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 4X4. I just had the engine rebuilt by NAPA. The new engine is installed and connected. I started it up and it was idling rough. I noticed some vacuum leaks on the injectors so I replaced all of the O-Rings. That seemed to fix some of the problems. I checked the onboard computer and there are not error codes. The engine sounds great when you run in above 1000 RPM. It just when it idling is when it is rough. There are no air leaks. All of the sensors are connected. Before the engine died(before it was rebuilt) it ran and idles normally. Does anyone have an opinion?
  • lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    Still sounds like a vacuum leak of some sort.
  • yeats66yeats66 Member Posts: 5
    I have triple checked numorous times...i thought there may be a leak on the manifold but there was not. Any other suggestions?
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    I suggest a quadruple check on the vacuum lines. Maybe one of the check valves on the valve cover is reversed?
    Usually a rough idle will eventually be chased down to a vacuum line either partially connected, disconnected, or connected to the wrong place.
  • paganmommapaganmomma Member Posts: 9
    I have a 1988 Cherokee that needs to have the AC charged, but I am calling around to find prices for this service and cant tell what kind of AC fluid I need. Does anyone know if it is R12 or 134A in this model?
  • lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    A decal on your radiator support or the firewall should tell you what kind of refrigerant it takes. IF it's R12 it will need to be retrofitted for R134A. No way around it. It's law.
  • fisherpatfisherpat Member Posts: 7
    Took my Cherokee to Autozone and they ran diagnotics. Code says I have either a failed transmission range sensor,,or ,, Open or short circuit condition...My question: Where is this range sensor located and how do I trace open circuit with this thing. Part only available at dealers I understand. Any reply would be appreciated. 2000 Jeep Cherokee 4.0l auto 4 wheel drive.
  • allezomallezom Member Posts: 1
    I know it's an old post but have you found out the problem. I am having the exact same issue. Already replaced TPS, and the 2 O2 sensors. Problem is still there.
    Thank you.
  • fisherpatfisherpat Member Posts: 7
    It appears that my neutral saftey switch for transmission on my 2000 cherokee 4.0l has gone bad. I had posted earlier saying it was my transmission range sensor and that is not the case. Is it all right to drive with this condition around town until I can get it fixed????
  • scp76scp76 Member Posts: 1
    Chris,
    I have a 2001 Cherokee, and have the same issue. Have you been able to resolve this, and if so, could you elaborate?
    Thanks.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    who installed the engine?? try taking it back to them-then napa!!..
    --a GREAT trick i learned with vacum leaks is to take carb cleaner,and a "straw"(like on a can of wd40?)
    spray around these places that it could be leaking--while the engine is running--if the engine starts stalling-or running faster--THAT'S WHERE YOUR VACUM LEAK IS!!! fixing the leak is the next step..
    good luck!!
  • larlylarly Member Posts: 1
    Is there a possibility that this is caused by a differential issue? Front Track bar & harmonic balancer replaced. Still doing the death wobble at 53 mph about 35% of the time. Of course, not when a mechanic is present...
  • kendo77kendo77 Member Posts: 7
    Just bought jeep cherokee, is there a secret to changing oil filter-looks a nightmare. Any suggestions would be wonderful, cheers..
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    Year? Engine size?
    There should be plenty of room in there to get at it. Let us know what year and engine and we can answer your question.
  • kendo77kendo77 Member Posts: 7
    Cheers bro its a 1998 2.5 TD. Filter located on left as you look at engine, not a lot of room for manuver as steering shaft lies one inch or so directly underneath !
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    Aahh, a friend from across the pond.
    I never even knew Jeep offered a 2.5 diesel until today so I don't think I'll be able to help you with this one!
    Good luck with it.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    -a filter should be just like any other filter-it ain't rocket science..if it's the same style as a gas engine(just a spin on filter),invest in a strap wrench-the rubber kind with a plastic handle--lefty-loosey,righty-titey !
    --make shure you have the right replacement filter,as being stuck-if this is your only ride,it'll be a long walk back to the parts shop..wet the rubber "O" ring with a dab of oil before you install the new one-kind of like THE DIRECTIONS SAY?..sorry,but get a lot of people asking things that are printed on the box..
    never overfill the engine..it's better to run it 1/2 quart low-than over,as the extra oil puts extra pressure,and can damage sealsand more fun things like that..after adding oil,and running engine-to fill the filter,check for leaks,DON'T over-torque the filter,as that will make getting it off the next timeextra difficult..that "extra" twist-just to make shure it's tight-COULD crush the filter's seal,and make it leak..spin it down till it contacts the seat,then3/4 of a turn(use the labels on the filter to judge),and it should be fine..
    -----
    --your 1 inch clearence should be just enough to get the old one out,and the new one on..
    good luck-and let us know ifin it worked or not..
  • kendo77kendo77 Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for info. The reason this is turning into a mission is because the previous owner fitted a GRAND cherokee engine and not a simple cherokee. Hence my problem. Any info would be helpful.... argh!! The filter is hitting off the steering shaft and causing oil to leak. Its right hand drive. :cry:
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    now i understand your plight better..and-there is a possible solution..
    -they make a 2/3 sized filter for those tight applications..the simple way i'd find it would be to look up dodge filters,(phram's numbers are prefixed with a "ph"..the big one was a ph8a,the small one was-ph16a,or something like that,but check with your parts place-or,are you having to order and ship?
    -but give that a whack..ok? :sick:
  • kendo77kendo77 Member Posts: 7
    thanks again, that sounds really good. I have contacted fram to see if they do a smaller version. I will keep you updated.. many thanks. :shades:
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    --if you can read what kind of filter is on there now,and the number,that would help you find the one your looking for..
    -my grand cherokee laredo has the 5.2-v8 in it,witch-being a chrystler 318(basically-with the fuel injection upgrade,but still-internally,the same engine they've beeen making since the -70's)-normally used a-ph8a-,.. ph-being phram's prefix,other manufactures use their own prefix,but usually keep the same model number acrost product lines..
    -with all the junk,and tight header configuration-they recomend the -ph16a- ..that's the 1/2 sized one-but still fits on the block using the same thread size-gasket placement..it's just shorter in stature (height) than the regular-full sized one.--get the model number off of the old filter-then that will help them find the 1/2 size you need..
    good luck! ;)
  • kendo77kendo77 Member Posts: 7
    yea, I sent them the serial No in my mail to fram ( ph4678), and also the No of the one you suggested (ph16a). I think it possible to move the filter mounting a few degrees one way or the other which would buy me enough space to fit regular filter. Watch out road..I'm coming! :)
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    sorry about this turning into a "mini-series,"but i had another thought..
    --see if a REMOTE-MOUNT FILTER KIT is available ? ! .
    ..with a mount-a few hi pressure hoses,and changing the filter would be the simplest ! you'd mount the other end of the bracket-anywhere it'd fit-like th fender,or core support !..also,they say it works kinda as a oil cooler,as th filter would get cooler air acrost ir=t, ! !..
    --phram is a great place,here in the states anyway,as all the auto parts have them..their "textured grip" filter-where i can get enough grip on a old filter,i've changed them with just my hand !..didn't need a wrench!..that impressed me,great idea..
    -with a clerance issue,the remote filter-if available-and not cost a fortune-might be a great way to go ! ? ..keep me informed..and good luck!
  • kendo77kendo77 Member Posts: 7
    that does sound really interesting, I never knew about that before. However I have fitted a smaller filter and all seems to be well. I am still going to fit the PH16a though as it is recommended for my jeep. It "reeks" of dark smoke, but that I think is because it has been sitting on a farm unused for two years! It'll get a good blast on the road soon I hope. Reverse gear seems a mission to engage though. Fingers crossed it's going for anual MOT test tomorrow to see if it passes the road worthy test. Pretty pretty please... :D
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    well,the stale "petrol" -we call it "gasoline,and stuck rings could be the black smoke..
    take it out for a long drive-cell phone handy !,and it might get her cleared out..also,put the highest octane-best fuel in it you can..even leave it sit and idle-making shure it's not overheating,and get her loosened up..
    -the transmisssion being difficult might mean THAT fluid-and filter need changing..or,it's nearing where it needs rebuilt..if it's automatic..(i assume)..ain't it fun getting old-forgotten trucks to live again??..make shure to check for dry-rotted rubber hoses..heard where a fella found a old corvette in a barn..figured to "just drive it around the block..",fuel line gave way,spraying fuel on the hot engine--burnt it to the ground..!he was not happy..
    --be careful,and have fun !..glad th phram filter worked out! :shades:
  • tooltimetooltime Member Posts: 2
    Wow JEEPGIRL3! I was so glad to read your post as I too am a jeepgirl. I love my 1999 JGC so I can relate. Except....for the part about the boyfriend!!!
    Are you kidding me? I'd have kicked his funny butt out at the next highest peak.
    Besides he's just jealous of your expertise and the amount of time you 'wasted' on your Jeep. :)
  • kendo77kendo77 Member Posts: 7
    babe passed MOT test yahoo! your right about old fuel - Its a diesel, manuel gearbox 5 speed. I'll be nursing it for a little to keep an eye on things. I do hope to run it on bio fuel ( save the planet and all that) ha ha. Really chuffed with it - my first 4x4. Its rough and ready but thats just fine with me. No airs or graces! Cheers again good buddy..... :)
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    glad to hear it!,and thrilled one of my babelings helped someone..
    -yes,jeeps are "ruff -and-ready",all gears and steel.!
    -and "babe" is a great name for her..with a word of caution..if you start bragging about her-that's when they break down,usually with one of those "mystery" ailments..
    -so,the "cure" is -every now and again,curse her just a bit-kick her in the bumper-somewhere it's not gonna dent,and she'll run forever..start talking good about it,and you-and your mate-may end up using "shoe leather express"(rofl)..best of luck with babe..sounds like you got a good one..(slap-boink!)-to her..
    p.s;
    if it's been setting that long,change the axle grease,and the transfer case oil..show it SOME love?!.. :blush:
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Hi All, I am looking for a little advice with my rear window defogger. I have a 99 Cherokee limited with heated mirrors and my rear defogger quit on me. I am trying to fix it myself but like most people my time is limited. So far I have found that the switch is good (tried a different one,) the relay is good and there is power to the switch (checked with a multi meter) The fuses are also intact. I can hear the relay click on and off when i press the switch, but no amber indicator lamp and no warmth on the glass. Today I checked the wires at the hatch and didn't see any broken wires and also the drivers mirror. Does anybody know of any common fail items for this or common short circuit spots? I have a repair manual that explains how to test the instrument panel with a multi meter and that is the next step unless anyone has any advice. Thanks, Ryan
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    also the grid looks to be in good shape but no power at the grid..
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    If you don't have an amber indicator lamp at the switch, I would pull the switch back out and put your multimeter on both sides of the switch to confirm it is working. Also check the "upstream" side of the switch with one lead with the other lead to ground (I'm assuming this is a positive fired switch but it may be ground fired which would mean you would need to do the opposite. A better option is to remove the fuse and just do a continuity check across the switch terminals which would confirm if it's good or not.
    Other than that, I'd start chasing wires after confirming the switch is good and you do not have power at the rear grid (one lead to the wire coming into the grid; the other one to ground.
    If the switch is good, the likely culprit is where the wire goes into the hatch from the body itself.
  • garry7garry7 Member Posts: 6
    change your fuses,just 'cos a fuse looks good, doesn't mean it is good,I have been caught before with this same problem

    Cheers

    Gary07
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    use the "ohmn" setting,and test the rear window grid..
    -you should get resistance from the two terminals at the glass(a complete circut)..
    -next,see if you get any power at the window..then,check the ground side..(that's the one that always got me stuck!)
    --if the amber light isn't coming on-it could just be the amber light-if the switch checks out ? !..check and see if the amber light gets power,then check it's ground..
    --electrical problems are some of the hardest things to diagnose,and with cars getting more complicated-it ain't gonna get any easier ! !-especially when we get-(shudder. ! )-electric cars! !..that's gonna be a LOT of fun! ! :shades:
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Thanks for the replys everybody. Hey loosenut, there is continuity at the grid but no power. there is power at the switch and continuity in the switch, no amber light in two different switchs that test fine. Everything checks out and I am left to think there is a problem with the instrument panel down where the relay is. What am I looking for at the ground side of the window? How do I check ground at the switch? I took apart the rear hatch interior panel and looked at the ground and hot wire to the glass and all appeared fine. I'm at a loss trying to figure this out...
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    using the meter,and a handy ground-back at the window,see if there is power..if there is,you have a bad ground-check the other side of the glass-trace it down,and clean the contact-making shure your ground is good..
    --if you can dig up a L-O-N-G- TEST LEAD,TRY PUTTING STRAIGHT POWER TO THE GLASS-ON THE POSITIVE SIDE....(MAYBE THEN YOUR AMBER LIGHT WILL LIGHT?)--sorry-caps lock stuck..
    --all this sounds like you've got a bad relay..unplug the relay,and with the test wire,unplug it from the glass-gently,-then,go back to where the relay plugs in,and see if there is power at the "output" point,if not,wire is broken somewhere..i have run a extra wire-tucking it in,so it doesn't look bad-just to save trying to trace where a broken wire is..
    --have you tried replacing the relay??--if you hear it "clicking",have someone turn it on and off,while you trace it by ear ! ?..
    --no power at the glass means a bad relay usually..try the simpler things first,then go for the more complicated..after all,it's just a 12v circut-but it pulls a pretty heavy load..
    --if you get it working,and find a few bars in the grid that aren't heating-they sell a conductive-copper colored paint-used to repair defrosters..
    best of luck!
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    resistance at the glass is good,means you've got a circut..to check for ground,ohm meter on a ground to ground wire..while there,see if power side has ground..if so,theres a short..
    -the relay has TWO sourses of power..one to activate the coil(the clicking noise),then-and where your problem may be-is a thirty-to-fifty amp fuse that would put power to the window..check owners manual,or the fuse diagram-grouped with things like the heavy fuse for the a/c,and see if that's the trouble..it just might be !
    lots of luck! :shades:
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Thanks for all the help! Trying to keep it simple I rechecked fuses in the power distribution center under the hood and found a blown 30 amp fuse titled HBL. It didn't look blown but it was. popped in a new one and I am good to go! Not sure why it blew though...
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    well;you saw where it took me TWO post's to thumk it through !,but-we figured it out !..HORRAY ! !..
    -fuses blow from a power surge..coulda been something got wet,and pop !..that's why they are there..
    you have made my day !..
    i helped someone figure out a problem,and a kinda complex one at that !...so,does the amber light work now?
    also,there is a timer on that circut,think it runs 15/20 minutes,to keep it from gettin too hot!

    was the fuse under the hood?-right or left side?,just to help the next person who runs into this problem!
    have a great day! :shades:
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    Good Idea! The fuse is labeled HBL and its in the power distribution box under the hood on the passenger side. I checked these fuses once before but they all looked good. I just started trying to figure out what they all went too and figured out HBL was the defroster. Your detailed advice was good and I was going to get into it but decided to recheck those "big stuff" fuses you were talking about. I have been obsessed with this for weeks now! looking over diagrams and testing things with a multi meter. I'm glad to have it fixed and it is an otherwise terrific Jeep. Thanks again!
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    i humbly accept your praise,..
    -this is EXACTLY why chat boards like this were set up,and why they are sucesful..despite my horrid spelling(spellcheck? what's that??)haha..
    now,if i could just find someone to help me with the noise in my rear axle-short of replacing or rebuilding,witch is where i'll probably end up..
    glad we got your electrical problem sorted out,and-who knows?,maybe helped someone else out there just following our blog ? ! have a great day ! :blush:
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    when you were checking the fuses,were you pulling the fuses out,and visually inspecting them,or-using the "circut tester-light"-or the multi-meter,testing the "tabs" -the metal at the top of the fuse?..that's the way to really test a fuse,because-as you found out-it might "look" fine,but-if power isn't flowing,it don't work !.. ;)
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    I was pulling them out and looking at them.
  • kate35kate35 Member Posts: 2
    My Jeep has a sound coming out of the front driver's side wheel area.. I have had the crank shaft removed and did not fix the problem, had the rear differential (not sure why) replaced and did not fix the problem, transfer case was checked and all was fine there.. the sound does not appear to affect the operation of the vehicle, it just sounds like the front end is about to fall into a million pieces. I can also stop this sound by applying the brakes. It happens on the acceleration of the vehicle from a stop to about 20 mph. Turns are worse sounding also.. any suggestions?
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