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I've read other posts where people have run a ground lead from the motor to the firewall to eliminate these kinds of issues, is this something we should do just in case?
Thanks in advance for any input!
I really doubt it will be the switch, as mine is a 1994 year model and I haven't had that problem from the switch. I havereplaced the starter for the same reason you are describing. Good luck! :shades:
install it with a line to read pressures (gage is mechanical so tells you exact oil pressure ) run engine see what oil pressure is if stays up sending unit is bad if falls off oil pump is bad
Thanks
First I had an alternator that was over charging up to 19. I replaced it then went back to auto zone had them check the battery and alternator again. My battery was junk so I replaced it right there at the store Had them run a check and the alternator tested bad. So I then replaced the alternator again making sure we checked to make sure it was good before I took it home. Now I should have a good battery and alternator. However after replacing the alternator again. I started up the jeep and let it run. Well it died and couldn't restart it. The battery was dead. I hooked up a battery charger and let it charge. After the battery was charged. I ran my jeep only to have the battery light come on again and the battery to keep draining.
What can be going on here?
Also check/clean the ground from the engine block to the body.
It may look perfectly fine but it most likely isn't. You cannot tell a corroded ground by just looking at the cable.
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one has a "taper" kindaymbol on it..turn that one-(clockwise?) and pull the headrest out... then when you want to fold th rear seatsfor cargo,you'll find the same buttons that hold the rest-so yaon't loose it-on the bottom seat-flipped up!
The left has some sort of bar with additional 4 extrusions that are long enough for two spark plugs. This bar has several bolts heads that would appear to be holding it in place. Is this where the spark plugs are located?
The electronic ignition has really small wires in a harness that runs behind the oil stick and lays against the block. What I cannot see is whether or not those wires go up to and through the bar on the left or to the conduit bar on the right. Very confusing.
Anyone know where I can find a schematic to the 4.0 Liter Engine?
take a simple circut tester,with a light,and pull the cover plate just behind the steering wheel,to expose the wires..three t-20? screws hold it on..
i.installed a remote start this way,and there is one wire that suplies all those things you describe,the other is to run the engine..
i suggest first finding the offending circut by turning it to acc-finding if it works on "on" as well,if not,the contact in the switch is bad..try to clean it with wd-40,but odds are,you're gonna have to replace it...my hillbilly side would try a toggle switch-branched from a switched(one that goes off with the key),cause if you go from a always live switch,you'll probably do what i'd do,and forget it-just once-and come out to a dead battery ! ! good luck!
------post script.-----------
first,CHECK ALL YOUR FUSES??!! !!??
I replaced the steering stabalizer and the sway bar bushings. The death wobble stopped instantly. That wobble was the worst thing especially when merging onto a highway!!! I always tried to avoid bumpy roads!! Ha
does anyone have an experience with replacing of the control arm bushings? I'm affraid it's waiting for me, I have never done it before. 1998 Grand Cherokee. Any special tool needed ?
Thanks for reply
Does anybody know why this is happening?
thanks for your help.