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Jeep Cherokee

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Comments

  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    front wheel bearing need to change bearings as a unit
  • kate35kate35 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, 2 mechanics have not wanted to attempt that idea due to cost in case it didnt fix the problem.. any idea how much that should cost?
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    around 150 or so depends how hard old hub comes off
  • bricksiebricksie Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Gran Cherokee with trouble codes P0031, P0051, P0155, and P0158. Any advice as to where to start? Could one cause the other, or is there something else that could cause these to trigger? Any advice would be most appreciated. Thanks.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    looks as if you have to replace oxy sencers
  • seanddseandd Member Posts: 1
    I have a 91 jeep cherakkee laredo that has a 4.0 6cyl inline that is over heating i have replaced the radiator water pump and i dont have a clue of wat else to do
  • land_sharkland_shark Member Posts: 4
    We've been having this exact same issue with a 2000 Cherokee Classic 4.0L. Intermittent episodes of not starting and battery appears to be totally dead then the next day will start just fine, sometimes the check guages light will come on but then it's fine, sometimes you can turn the key on and nothing will happen for several seconds and then it will start, etc. Every now and again it will start but die right away and it has to be revved up above idle for a little bit to keep it running. Cost is definitely an issue right now so trying to track down the problem ourselves, is this indicative of a failing ignition switch?
    I've read other posts where people have run a ground lead from the motor to the firewall to eliminate these kinds of issues, is this something we should do just in case?
    Thanks in advance for any input!
  • lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    First rule out the starter. During one of these "no start episodes", have someone hold the key in the start position while you tap the starter with a hammer or a metal rod. (however you can get to it easiest, from top or bottom) If it starts while tapping on it, it's the starter. It wouldn't hurt to have the extra ground wire from the engine to the firewall as a broken ground strap or wire can have intermittent effects such as these.
    I really doubt it will be the switch, as mine is a 1994 year model and I haven't had that problem from the switch. I havereplaced the starter for the same reason you are describing. Good luck! :shades:
  • ryan99ryan99 Member Posts: 46
    I am having this same problem. Whatever became of it for you? Did anything need replacing? I just find I have to keep playing with the plug from time to time. thanks, Ryan
  • paul_delucapaul_deluca Member Posts: 1
    I've got a blown clutch bearing on my A/C compressor and rather than replace the compressor right now I'd rather swap the compressor for a bypass pulley. Trouble is, I haven't been able to find one for that model year. My local NAPA says no one makes it. Any ideas? (I don't think a belt from a non-A/C model will work; I don't think the belt routing will work.) Thanks, pd
  • guomiguoguomiguo Member Posts: 3
    hi, i also had exactly same problem. at first, i had a coolant leak somewhere, then i decided to use those sealant, then the problem gone away, immediately after that, my oil pressure start dropping to 0 psi upon warming up. have you figured this out by any chance?
  • guomiguoguomiguo Member Posts: 3
    i'm having exactly same problem on 2001 grand cherokee limited I6. searched on the internet for months, and still havn't found anyone that claims a definite solution. since money is really the issue, i really dont' want to replace oil pump, oil pressure sending unit, etc etc until i can be sure it's really the cause. before the oil pressure problem popped out, i had a coolant leaking issue, i fixed it by dumping some stop leaking sealant, then the coolant leaking problem is gone, but oil pressure drop to 0 problem came immediately after that. i found some other people also had coolant leaking problem prior to the pressure problem. my guess is the coolant leaking and oil pressure dropping are related. i'm not familiar with the mechanical details, but could somehow the coolant leaking hole is connected to the engine oil tunnel? such that the nasty "stop leaking sealant" product flow into the engine oil tunnel and causing the oil pressure sensor to read low? this is such a painful experience, could someone give some advice?
  • lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    Stop leak is nothing but a band aid on an artery. Just covers the underlying problem and does nothing to fix it. (not trying to be a jerk) Sounds as though you may have a blown head gasket. Do you have milky oil? :shades:
  • guomiguoguomiguo Member Posts: 3
    there's no milky oil, engine oil looks normal. i'm so stressed out about it driving to work every day... help!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    go and get a oil pressure gage from auto zone pep boys etc
    install it with a line to read pressures (gage is mechanical so tells you exact oil pressure ) run engine see what oil pressure is if stays up sending unit is bad if falls off oil pump is bad
  • mcjt22mcjt22 Member Posts: 3
    try replacing the thermostat?
  • mandm4mandm4 Member Posts: 7
    Is it possible to have a blown head gasket if oil is clean and not loosing any coolant any where. On a 2000 JGC 4.7 engine have milky oil in the oil cap only.Replaced oil cap and o-ring. Replaced PCV and hose. At first thought was a head gasket but not showing any of the signs. Do have a little smell of coolant in cabin. Rad is full. Oil is clean. I thank that some how steam is getting there and doing this not sure though.Thanks
  • lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    Because of heat/cold, it's possible that it may just be condensation on the cap.I have seen this happen on other vehicles. A coolant smell (sweet smell) in the passenger cabin probably means a small leak on the heater core.Keep an eye on your coolant levels and your oil. Does your exhaust smell like antifreeze? A blown head gasket doesn't always allow coolant to mix with oil, it may be forced into the cylinder and burned with the fuel. Good luck! :shades:
  • motodadmotodad Member Posts: 2
    anyone ever have this problem with tilt on steering wheel getting loose? if so how do you get to bolts to tighten it.

    Thanks
  • spazzsticspazzstic Member Posts: 1
    i have replaced my battery and alternator and still my battery keeps going dead. What can cause the battery not to charge right.

    First I had an alternator that was over charging up to 19. I replaced it then went back to auto zone had them check the battery and alternator again. My battery was junk so I replaced it right there at the store Had them run a check and the alternator tested bad. So I then replaced the alternator again making sure we checked to make sure it was good before I took it home. Now I should have a good battery and alternator. However after replacing the alternator again. I started up the jeep and let it run. Well it died and couldn't restart it. The battery was dead. I hooked up a battery charger and let it charge. After the battery was charged. I ran my jeep only to have the battery light come on again and the battery to keep draining.

    What can be going on here?
  • fisherpatfisherpat Member Posts: 7
    You have to pull the steering wheel and tighten the bolts inside. Chilton shows you how.
  • fisherpatfisherpat Member Posts: 7
    Check the ground. Sounds like you have a bad one.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    I concur with believing this is a ground issue. Trace your ground cable from the battery to the sheet metal where it attaches. Remove the bolt, grind the sheet metal until you have bare metal, reattach the ground wire and spray the bare metal with a clear corrosion spray.

    Also check/clean the ground from the engine block to the body.

    It may look perfectly fine but it most likely isn't. You cannot tell a corroded ground by just looking at the cable.
  • elchuckoelchucko Member Posts: 1
    When I attempt using the a/c, it barely cools and the compressor clutch chatters. Why?
  • bricksiebricksie Member Posts: 3
    Is it difficult to change the right rear axle seal on my 2002 GC? Its leaking...
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    My best guess is the bearings in the compressor are going bad. Also, check the belt.
  • paulepaule Member Posts: 382
    Not sure about the '02 but those are typically a little more than the average backyard mechanic will want to attempt. I'd do a google search on it. Odds are someone has done them and has photos of the procedure.
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  • pole2pole2 Member Posts: 17
    If you find somebody please let me know. I have Jeep Cherokee 2007 Diesel and i would like to install all this gear to. Please let me know.
    Wojtek
    wojtek90@hotmail.com
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  • steve_k_37801steve_k_37801 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 01 sport with I6 motor. My a/c will cycle for about ten to fifteen min the the compressor will stop working. Have had pressures checked and was told that the oriface tube was clogged up. Also I have changed the coolant fan radiator switch on the high side because the electric fan doesnt work with the a/c. I know switch is used for telling ecm when pressure is too high, but that is not the problem, ecm is not telling fan to engage. Could this be a R134 flow problem? Dont want to throw money at this problem, could be costly.
  • zonian01zonian01 Member Posts: 1
    I was just curious to see if this problem was resolved. My daughter's '94 jeep cherokee has the exact same problem except that now after restarting, the problem still exists. I did find that if I turn the ignition back to acc., everything works. Heater, wipers etc.. Appreciate any help.
  • steve358steve358 Member Posts: 12
    Just picked up my new cherokee, great riding suv. Went to put my child seat in rear and had problems with headrest. Anyone know how to remove or raise the rear head rest so car seat is flush with back of seat. Car seat is leaning on headrest, feels sturdy but there has to be a way to remove. All suggestions aprreciated thanks
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    my-98 gcl has a "collar" around the two steel posts..
    one has a "taper" kindaymbol on it..turn that one-(clockwise?) and pull the headrest out... then when you want to fold th rear seatsfor cargo,you'll find the same buttons that hold the rest-so yaon't loose it-on the bottom seat-flipped up!
  • nthompson1nthompson1 Member Posts: 13
    All of a sudden, after leaving a fillup at gas station and entering highway, my Jeep started jerking repeatedly, evenly, between 45 - 65 mph. It has never done this before. I could keep up with the flow of traffic. After an hour on the road trying to get home, I pulled off an exit and stopped at sign. The motor died, and Jeep will not start even though battery turns over. I had it towed home. About 4 months ago, Walmart would not change the oil; man said he heard a noise in the engine. A Napa station I regularly go to did change oil. A neighbor says sometimes the sensors do not communicate correctly, and this happens. Any ideas? This is a 5 speed, 4 wheel drive Jeep.
  • 93cayenne93cayenne Member Posts: 1
    I own a 93 JCS as well and have to replace blower motor. I do know that you may not need a switch because the "resistor" is what slows the voltage down to allow your blower motor to run at lower speeds that high. So more than likely just replace resistor for bout $15 bucks and should fix the switch problem!
  • okie16okie16 Member Posts: 1
    2002 Grand Cherokee Loredo 4.0 Engine. I am going nuts as well just trying to replace the spark plugs. I am an ole mechanic from the 50's-60's and the stuff that is on the engine does not make the identification of location or proper removal readily identifiable. Looking from the front to the back of the vehicle, are the plugs on the left or the right?
    The left has some sort of bar with additional 4 extrusions that are long enough for two spark plugs. This bar has several bolts heads that would appear to be holding it in place. Is this where the spark plugs are located?
    The electronic ignition has really small wires in a harness that runs behind the oil stick and lays against the block. What I cannot see is whether or not those wires go up to and through the bar on the left or to the conduit bar on the right. Very confusing.
    Anyone know where I can find a schematic to the 4.0 Liter Engine?
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    edited November 2011
    sounds like the electrical ignition switch to me..
    take a simple circut tester,with a light,and pull the cover plate just behind the steering wheel,to expose the wires..three t-20? screws hold it on..
    i.installed a remote start this way,and there is one wire that suplies all those things you describe,the other is to run the engine..
    i suggest first finding the offending circut by turning it to acc-finding if it works on "on" as well,if not,the contact in the switch is bad..try to clean it with wd-40,but odds are,you're gonna have to replace it...my hillbilly side would try a toggle switch-branched from a switched(one that goes off with the key),cause if you go from a always live switch,you'll probably do what i'd do,and forget it-just once-and come out to a dead battery ! ! good luck!
    ------post script.-----------
    first,CHECK ALL YOUR FUSES??!! !!??
  • jeep_drifter1jeep_drifter1 Member Posts: 3
    i have a 1993 Cherokee with a auto in it with the 4.0 high output 6. i also have a 1990 Cherokee with a auto and the 4.0 inline 6. but not the high output its got the old computer in it. what i want to know is i want to put the motor from the 93 into the 90 will the computer harness from the 93 plug into the firewall and work in the 90 Cherokee? so basically i need to know can i put a motor and computer from a 93 into 90 jeep and just plug and play?
  • dixie1994dixie1994 Member Posts: 4
    Hauling that heavy of a load and driving so fast and kicking it down to pass cars is whats doing that. I have a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with a 318 and i have changed everything you have except for the clutch fan and mine does just fine. It gets hotter than normal when my other half has me haul more than its made to haul. But I baby mine. The fastest I had it was 65mph on the highway which is the speed limit. Mine has 209,495miles on it and still going strong. But I don't drive it hard or hot rod it like your saying your other half does. Hope this helps you out. :D
  • dixie1994dixie1994 Member Posts: 4
    I own a 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with a 318 in it. I have changed all the sensors that are on the throttle body,both sensors by the thermastate housing, replaced all fuses and relays,new K&N air filter,its had a tune up, except for the cap and rotor cause its a pain in the a_ _ to get to. Getting ready to change that and fuel filter here in a day or so. But what it's doing is when it's cold it starts and idles like it should. But after it gets to normal operating temp when I startit, it dies or idles down so low it almost dies but it catches it self and idles back up. I have no problems while driving it. Just starting it. And some times here recently it dies when i stop after being in reverse. But thats when it's still a little cold. Any ideas what could be causing this? :confuse:
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    cap-rotor,and maybe plugs+wires.. my-98-318 had a slight miss-till i freshened up the cap and rotor,got lucky when the parts store was having a sale,and got split-fire plugs for 2 bucks each.. been two years now-with 150k,.. still purrs!!
  • jlec0370jlec0370 Member Posts: 1
    Although I have reviewed some of the posts concerning death wobble's, I want to ask about my specific situation. My 1998 jeep grand cherokee limited (5.2l motor) had been doing the death wobble quite often, about a total of 20+ times at higher speeds of 50mph on up. I learned quickly how to control or stop it by coming to a quick complete stop. (on the side of the freeway) Most of the time the problem was initiated by going over a bump. I noticed finally that my track bar bracket broke, just below the bolts to the frame. I was told this is very uncommon. I replaced that, now my c/v axle's are getting bad. I have noticed that it seems to do the death wobble less in cold weather. I'm kind of assuming maybe its because the bushings, etc. are stiffer, which creates less play rather than when its hot out, and the bushings are warm and flexible. Do you think the track bar bracket bushing is the cause or a combination of parts, or something alltogether different? I look forward to your opinion. Oh, and what could happen in the worst case senario? Besides crashing and burning? What would be likely to break altogether? Is this quite unsafe for this to be happening on a semi-regular basis. I'm not that stupid, and think I know the answers to this, but would like to hear it from a mechanic. Thank you. Jason
  • jeepman15jeepman15 Member Posts: 1
    The same thing happened to my 1998 Jeep.
    I replaced the steering stabalizer and the sway bar bushings. The death wobble stopped instantly. That wobble was the worst thing especially when merging onto a highway!!! I always tried to avoid bumpy roads!! Ha
  • torrymendozatorrymendoza Member Posts: 7
    I had this problem two Jeep Cherokees ago, it turn out to be the wheel bearings in one wheel. It wasn't that expensive to get fixed, I would check that.
  • danny80danny80 Member Posts: 7
    Hi,
    does anyone have an experience with replacing of the control arm bushings? I'm affraid it's waiting for me, I have never done it before. 1998 Grand Cherokee. Any special tool needed ?
    Thanks for reply
  • underphoenixunderphoenix Member Posts: 1
    edited February 2012
    While rummaging through behind my glovebox i accidntally cut a red hose that is going to the temperature knob. this hose is accompanied by multiple other hoses going to the same spot. Will i be able to replace this hose?
  • natas226natas226 Member Posts: 1
    hello. i'm having the same issue and was wondering if you ever figured out what it was. please let me know.
  • mooner73mooner73 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 94 Cherokee Sport w/170,000 miles. Recently it has started cracking the spark plug in cylinder one about every 3-4 weeks or about 500 miles.
    Does anybody know why this is happening?
    thanks for your help.
  • loosenutloosenut Member Posts: 165
    any coolant leaking? i'm thinkin hot plug-cold water=crack??
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