Jeep Cherokee

cowsrus · February 2002

Hello -

I appreciate all the help I have been given by this forum. We own a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport. We need to get new tires. We don't use it off-road other than the gravel roads in our small town. We live in the mountains of Utah and get a good deal of snow. The summers here are dry and we have very little rain. We are looking for a good all-around tire that we can use on this vehicle. Any comments, suggestions or ideas will be appreciated.

vin_weasel · February 2002

For snow and good wear I've heard that the Michelens are very good plus you can't go wrong with a BFG AT KO.

As for tire carriers, check out:

Tomken
Custom 4x4 Fabrication
Protofab 4x4
Hanson Enterprises
AEV Conversions
Bulletproof Mfg

For the price, the best one is the Custom4x4. I have their tow hook brackets and they're great. The AEV one is apparently very nice, but I've heard on people on Jeeps Unlimited having waited over 6 months and still not receiving theirs. I like the look of the ProtoFab one but it may not match on the new (97+) body style. Finally the Bulletproof Mfg one is just that but it is very expensive. I'm waiting to save up some money for one to import it (Tomken is the only one available up here, and even then I have to get it from Vancouver which is far from Winnipeg) or learn to weld and create my own.

vin_weasel · February 2002

Have you had the rear drums checked? Does it make the noise in 2wd or 4wd? Does the noise come from the middle or a particular side?

Just some questions to help you figure it out.

drmay · February 2002

My 1999 Jeep Classic has the same sound. A dull noise like something's rolling around at the back. It seems to happen as the Jeep is just breaking to a stop; but not every time. Then it happens again just as I start excellerating. It was on dry pavement and in 2W. I can't tell you more because I've just bought the thing. But my '86 5-speed Cherokee never made that sound. both vehicals are Command track. The gas tank was 3/4 full. Maybe its wave action in a poorly baffled tank? (I'm just brainstorming here)

drmay · February 2002

Bootnrally: I saw your post in an archive and in answer to your question and I have this to say about the 2.5. I put 360,000 Kilometers and over 15 years on my 4 banger before buying a Replacement Cherokee. I had it rebuilt at 335,000 Klicks. The performance at rebuild was poor milage and poor vacuum both related to poor compression but it wasn't burning any oil. It will pull a 1600 lb camper in the Rockies no problem and probably more with an automatic. But you pretty well have to mate it with the 5 speed manual to get the most out of the engine. The engine proved to be a reliable work horse and wore out gracefully. The machine shop mentioned 340,000 Klicks to a rebuild as being common. No internal problems ever. One cracked exhaust manifold. For reliability chose the 2.5L. For power choose the 4L.

jrm1147 · February 2002

I AM TRYING TO FIND ONE CAN ANYONE HELP ???????? THANK YOU JRM>

anonymous02 · February 2002

try your local junkyard or a speed shop.

the speed shop one you will probably have to bolt or clamp to the steering column

marion2318 · February 2002

Thanks for everyone's responses...I have not had anything like the rear drums checked yet because I didn't know if this was a typical Jeep/truck thang and I've only had it a month. It definitely sounds like what some of you are describing, and it does seem to happen when I break harder or faster. It gives the sensation that the front of the vehicle stops and then the back of the vehicle stops a second later with a thump, like it's catching up. It's only happened in 2WD on dry pavement. It handles great so far in 4WD. I will go ask about the Limited Slip Differential and the rear drums this week....thanks again guys!

jimolds · February 2002

I need some help obtaining the original parts number for my rear springs. I have an 88 Cherokee Limited 4WD with factory installed Class 3 Tow Package/receiver hitch. Old rear springs are tired and sagging and rear half of lower leaf of both springs are broken off, where the original part number supposedly was. Local Mopar/Jeep parts counter can't/won't help. Said they don't know what springs to get until they know what came on it. VIN sheet from Mopar computer doesn't tell us what springs came on it originally. Parts manual for 88 Cherokee lists 8 rear springs parts numbers, 3 standard and 5 HD, but that is for every type of Cherokee, 4 cyl etc. I want to keep original ride height, no lift, but do need to increase load capacity for the weight I carry and boat towing. Help, anybody know what came on 88 Cherokee Limited with Tow Package? Local spring shop says they need to know same before they can recommend new springs. They have three replacement springs for Cherokee: 485 lb, 545 lb, and 605 lb. Thanks, and more thanks.

boggse · February 2002

I doubt any Mopar shop would be able to help you as AMC & Chrysler hadn't merged their service departments by the time your Jeep was manufactured. You will most likely have to contact Jeep directly at 1-800-992-1997. Someone at the corporate level should be able to get the information you need based on you VIN.

gmlover1 · February 2002

You could try removing them and taking them to a spring re builder.

boggse · February 2002

Has anyone here replaced their stock fog-lights? Mine shorted out when the lenses cracked and water got in them. I was looking at Hella Micro FF lamps. I wanted to mount them in the same location as the stock lamps, so I figured getting small ones should make mounting easier. Any suggestions would be welcome.

anonymous02 · February 2002

I would go with the heavier (heaviest?) ones if I were you.

Whatever broke the first set will likely do the same to the next set if you are still doing it (are you a stonemason?)

Good luck.

sebring95 · February 2002

I had Hella Micro FF's on a Tacoma and they were better than the stock fog-lights on the Cherokee. They would probably fit with some minor adjustments (cut the crap out of cowl). There was some glitch on getting the stock switch to work them, but I know it's possible. I can give you a link for a site that someone can easily answer that question but the post will probably get deleted. Give me an email and I'll send you the link.

boggse · February 2002

My e-mail address is in my profile. I couldn't find yours, so if you could just send me the link to that address, I would appreciate it. Thanks for your help.

jimolds · February 2002

Thanks fellows for the advice on springs. I'll try calling Jeep first to see if they can tell me what came on it so I start with a base point. If no help from them, then I might just go for the heaviest set. Although the curb weight in the book for a Cherokee is around 3000 lbs, mine weighs 3750 as I drive it everyday, with a full gas tank but me not in the vehicle. Add three more passengers, weekend baggage and a boat trailer and, thus, my problem.

opera_house_wk · March 2002

The gromit for the PCV system at the back of the valve cover is prone to swelling and clogging. Just had a major sludge problem with mine. I always cleaned the tube to the intake manifold but didn't check the gromit. You should be able to push a probe through 1 inch till you hit a metal plate. Check it out.

beam2000 · March 2002

My 1990 Jeep Cherokee Ltd. has the annoying habit of not starting all the time. 99 per cent of the time, it starts, then every once in a while, it doesn't. When the 4.0 litre in-line six doesn't start, it cranks over, but there is no spark By the time I arrange to get it towed to the garage, it starts on its own. I have changed the coil, the ballast resistor, and re-wired the connection to the coil, but this has not solved the problem. Anyone have any other ideas?? Could it be a faulty ignition switch or electronic ignition module?? Maybe possibly a bad pickup in the distributor? I am at wits end with this Jeep. I have left it for weeks at a time at the garage, but unless it acts up there, they can not figure out what is wrong with it. At least if if quit working at the garage, they could fix it.

Has anyone had any similar experiences with this type of problem on the Cherokee?

sebring95 · March 2002

I believe it's the throttle position sensor assuming that applies to your model. Those are almost like maintenance items on some years.

nosirrahg · March 2002

I'm in the market for a very used (i.e. high mileage=inexpensive) 4WD sport utility, and have seen a few Cherokees in the paper with high mileage for reasonable amounts. Are there any years/engines/transmissions to avoid, or that over time have proven to be good long-term prospects.

This will be our "spare" vehicle to knock around in on weekends and haul the occasional odd-sized item (our other two cars are 4-door sedans). It will replace my '82 F350 which I bought a year ago; which while fine for hauling stuff, doesn't offer a) room for the family of four, b)4WD, or c)decent fuel economy (truck ranges between 8-10mpg). I want something I can drive in bad weather to cart everyone around, but if I slide into something on a snowy day, I won't be out too much for repairs (or insurance).

The fact that the Cherokee has been around for years appeals to me, since even older models don't look extremely dated, and there should be plenty of used parts available down the road. Any guidence would be greatly appreciated!

sebring95 · March 2002

I would look for something with the 4.0L and the AW4 (Japanese built) automatic tranny. I think anything '91 and newer will cover that. That combination is one of the strongest and most reliable built so the big stuff should be ok, well into high mile territory. Many folks have 250K+ with no engine/tranny problems. Some of the older stuff had 2.8L Chevy V6's and odd-ball trannies that were much less reliable. The most common problem on the 91-96 models was overheating due to a smaller cored radiators and some electrical glitches. '97 and newer models have much better cooling systems along with all new wiring system and they seem to be rather trouble free. I would think you could pick up something quite reliable and with reasonable miles for $4500. $3500 maybe but it would possibly have more problems. Much cheaper than that and you're really pushing your luck for a 4X4. At least around here. $2500 for a 4X4 is a project that will need constant attention.

boggse · March 2002

The only suggestion I would make is to have all 4 of you try out the back seat. Some will find it quite cramped. Other than that, I think a used Cherokee would be a great vehicle for what you describe. The mechanical bits tend to last a long time. I have a 1998 Classic 4x4. Almost all of the minor problems I have had were electrical. Fog lights shorting out (water invasion) and power window regulator (common Chrysler problem) are the only things I have had to fix more than once. Good Luck!

nosirrahg · March 2002

Thanks for the info, guys! I did some more searching last night, and read where the '97 model was improved in the cooling area over earlier models. Someone here in town had a '93 w/"high miles" in the paper for $3500 obo; at least now when I go take a look at it, I'll have a better idea of what to look for.

Thanks again!

vin_weasel · March 2002

Edmunds History of the Cherokee

Another history

I was trying to find some more as I know there is one site out there that is really informative but I can't remeber it. Key points not found entirely in the article above: In '91 they added the 4.0 HO engine. There was also a switch over point to an open cooling system from a closed one (bad) and I think it was '92 or '93. '87 to '89's can possibly have a Dana 44 rear axle which is much preffered to the Dana 35 that came between 84 and 96 or so. After 96 the jeep got either a Dana 35 or a Chrysler 8.25 which is almost as strong as the D44. You can tell the difference by looking at the back of the rear axle. The D35 has an oval cover and the 8.25 has a flat bottom.

I just found another site about the different engines:

http://bigcherokee.com/engine.html

anonymous02 · March 2002

I was going to buy a Cherokee end of last summer, but I could not find one with enough leg room. My legs hit the steering wheel, and I never saw one with tilt wheel (does it exist?). My Civic had more legroom. Too bad, my wife loves and I like the styling of the Cherokee. The boxier the better.

Ended up buying a 97 Wrangler. Still a little short on leg room, but at least I don't interfere with steering.

nosirrahg · March 2002

I'd read the Edmunds history, but hadn't seen the other links you provided; good info on the differential (which is something I wouldn't have paid attention to probably).

So if you had to pick one model to target, would you look for an 87-89 with the Dana 44 rear axle (but w/2.8l Chevy engine?), a post-91 model w/the 4.0 engine, a '93 with better cooling, or a '97 with improved electricals? I'm guessing a '93 with the 4.0 engine might be the best compromise for me, based on limited 4WD usage, but needing the better cooling (Arkansas summers can get nasty!), and probably not being able to afford a '97 model.

There were also numerous 4WD systems available at different times; anything to avoid/seek there?

boggse · March 2002

I know from 97 on Tilt Steering Wheels were available. Before that is outside my experience.

vin_weasel · March 2002

I'll tell you what I have, some comments, and what I'd like to do with it.

I have a 2001 Sport with Select-trac with the tow package which is a must I figure because not only do you get the Class III hitch, but you get the tranny cooler, too. You can get better aftermarket Tranny coolers as well. I love the Selec-trac and wanted it because of the winters we have up here. The NP242 Transfer case (Selec-trac) is stronger than the NP231 Transfer case (Command-Trac) in some respects and weaker in others. I've heard that the chain assembly is stronger but the overall impression is that the 242 is a weaker case simply because it has more components. The 231 case is preferred by some because it is simpler and there are more modifications available for it. Personally, I think the difference will never be noticed by anyone not doing serious off-roading. There were also two other transfer cases offered way back in the mid to late 80's along with the 2.8L chevy V-6. I think they were the np228 and np229 (Command and Selec-trac respectively). In those years the front axle was also a vacuum disconnect which is people have different opinions on. The 2.8L engine is viewed by almost everyone as a dog, however it makes for an easy swap down the road for another Chevy engine, the most common being the 3.1L and the 3.4L Camaro engine. For the 4.0, they pretty much maxed out the performance gains in 2001. Improvements that can be made to any version of the 4.0 include a Ram-air type setup, a bored out throttle body and spacer, headers and a more free flowing exhaust and catalytic converter.

The Dana44 rear end came only in certain models back in '87-89. They were usually the towing package or the 'metric tonne package'. They are very rare and very sought after because an aftermarket axle is big bucks. Right now (and in the conceivable future) I'm happy with my 29-spline 8.25" Chrysler axle. When they first developed it there was a 27 spline version that is slightly weaker (closer to a D35 in strength, not much of an improvement). The Dana35 axle is not weak by any means, but the consensus on the off road boards and lists I read is that if you use lots of power and/or larger tires, you'll be replacing axle shafts. Personally, I would love to find a Dana44 axle but I haven't even tried looking yet. It's only a slight increase in strength over the new 8.25 but it does have larger drum brakes. A better swap is a '95+ Ford Explorer 8.8" rear axle. You have to weld, or have someone else weld, the spring pads/shock mounts but the kit is only $160US. This axle is even if not stronger than the D44 and you get rear disk brakes. Plus different models had better gear ratios and a limited slip similar to the Trac-loc found in Jeeps. I have a Trac-lok, too. It's not bad. One problem of the 8.25" Chrysler axle is the difficulties it can cause when adding lift to the suspension of a Cherokee. It is a little longer on the snout and can cause driveshaft angle to more easily exceed vibration free operating angles.

My plans for the Jeep are pretty much as follows:

- I've already installed some aftermarket tow hooks from Custom 4x4 Fabrication but because I don't have anyone to wheel with I haven't needed them yet.
- I have the transfer case skid and gas tank skid. I managed to get them from the states when Mopar was clearing them out for real cheap. If I wanted them now, I'd go to a junk yard.
- I have a 2" lift coming eventually. It cost only $110 US plus shipping and should be relatively easy to install. I actually have very little mechanical ability or experience. I would go larger but because of the redesign in '97, all newer jeeps are more prone to damaging driveline vibrations.
- I have a few ideas for bumpers (front and rear), side rails/steps, etc but I'm waiting to take a welding course and maybe make my own.
- I would love to do some engine mods like those I listed above but money is always an object and most of the stuff I have to order from the states which is super expensive by the time it gets here.

If I had to buy another Jeep right now I would probably look for a nice '95 limited or laredo. I would most likely go with the command-trac if I was going to off-road it lots and/or not drive it under slippery conditions. You wouldn't believe how many days we had here this winter where I was in Full-time but part-time would have been bad for the driveline. I would also check the back to see what differential I was going to be getting. Oh, the D35 usually came with the vehicles with ABS.

Now that I'm done my opus, I should tell you that all the information above has been gleaned by reading on the web. Like I said, I don't have tons of mechanical knowledge and I've only owned by Jeep for 10 months. Check out sites like:

Jeeps Unlimited
North American XJ Association
Cherokee America

beam2000 · March 2002

After numerous trips to the garage, the no-start problem was a bad electronic ignition module. On this Cherokee, the coil "nests" into the electronic module. The lesson I learned is if there is a change of temperature outside, and your vehicle doesn't start(no spark) until the temperature changes again, it is most likely that your electronic ignition module is faulty. The only other possible causes could be the coil or distributor pickup. This may seem like a very simple solution, but it sure is aggravating to try and find it when it only happens once in a while.

mathteacher · March 2002

Hey everyone, I own a 98 Cherokee Sport and am having a problem with my remote keyless entry. About 3 months ago it stopped working so I went and got new batteries put in it. It worked for about three days and then it stopped working again. I thought that maybe I had a bad set of batteries. I put new ones in again and it worked for about three days and it stopped. After a couple of days of pushing the buttons with no result it finally started working again and worked for about three months. The other day I had the same problem: stopped working, changed the batteries and it worked for a couple of days, and now it won't work again. Has anyone had this problem? Has anyone had to buy a new key fob and if so for how much?
Please let me know out there if you have an answer.

boggse · March 2002

I have a 98 Classic, but I have not had your problem. I do not know what a new key fob costs. You could try these guys:

http://www.auto-parts-direct.com/

They offer discounted prices on OEM parts. Just fill out their form with what you want, and they will send you a quote.

ironroot · March 2002

Hello,

I am considering a nice deal my dealer has on a 2002 Grand Cherokee Limited set up just like I was looking for---except it has a High Output V8 engine rather than the regular V8.

My dealer (and Jeep brochures) says that it is "OK" to run regular gas in the HO V8, particularly around town. Anyone have experience doing this? I would rather not always have to feed my SUV the premium gas, would like to have the option to use Premium only when I want it for highway performace and the price is right...

Your comments appreciated.

Bob

sandyboy · March 2002

Tilt Steering Wheel was an option every year from the first XJ (1984) thru the last (2001). Sometimes it was a stand-alone option, other years it was packaged with a group...but it was always an option, and always available. I checked all 18 of my brochures....

ed96 · March 2002

Sandyboy,
i too love the jeeps. i own a wagoneer(anyone who owns one knows it HAS to be love to own the LAST carb engine on the planet) I also own a 99 classic with every option there is except abs . go figure.
but , i own three manuals my 88. my 99 ,and my former 96 sport . what is wrong with you man ?
VERY COOL

brown67 · March 2002

I have a 2001 Cherokee Sport and it came with no cruise control. I bought an after market one but can't get it to work. Does anyone know of an after market one other than audiovox that will work. i went to the dealer and they want 750$ to install the factory one.

ed

billcoop382 · March 2002

Recently purchased above vehicle for my daughter.
Car has 81K miles. In process of changing fluids
since I have no idea how religious prior owner
was/wasn't. Transmission and oil already done,
steering fluid next. I've noticed that the
engine runs ( if I can trust the gauge ) at about
210 degrees. This is some 30-40 degrees hotter than the GM products I'm used to driving. I'd like some feedback from experienced owners as to whether this is normal, or should I go ahead with a thermostat change and/or flush the radiator and replace the coolant?

The in-line six is pretty impressive from a torque standpoint and the ride is somewhat better than I expected from a 4X4 SUV.

vin_weasel · March 2002

If it starts getting up around 230 you have to worry. The 4.0L is a hot engine.

You might want to change the differential fluids as well.

jpercel · March 2002

I am starting to research jeep cherokees' and I was wondering if anyone knew a good place to find information about the distinction between the sport model, SE, and classic (standard version). I am also looking for opinions on these models. Are they efficent cars? What are some of the problems peope have found with them? Any advice? Thanks.

stever · March 2002

If you just want used Jeeps (i.e., not new Grand Cherokees), then you'll have to go to the Used pages and get a list; then go through the specs one by one.

There is a Vehicle Comparision Tool, but it's only for the new models.

Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

Hammertime · March 2002

Like vin_weasel said, the cherokee runs hot. My '98 always runs between 200-210 whether it's near freezing or the temp. is up in the nineties.

mhall02 · March 2002

Hi all, I have had my 2000 Sport for about 2.5 years now and have recently lost two of the center caps off of my std. steel wheels. Anyone else have this problem? Apparently the plastic 'nubs' that the three screws go into disentegrated, the plastic is very brittle and all that is left behind are the three screws with the metal nut and brittle plastic inside the metal nut. Poor quality plastic, just kinda annoying. Also, looks like the front diff. is leaking a little around the drive-shaft seal, is this common (thank goodness for the extended warranty)? All things considered, still love the Jeep, it has 51,000 miles and is running great!!

vader6 · March 2002

I just had a similar but different problem. Standing next to the vehicle while pressing unlock/lock/panic buttons on the key fob did nothing. Had to manually unlock door and while driving to the dealers tried the buttons while vehicle was in motion. Everything worked! Anyway , the dealer took both key fobs and checked the transmission range/battery and said both are in max range, battery good. Computer glitch I guess.

Can't wait for the 03 GMC Envoy XL so I can trade this Chrysler crap in.

sandyboy · March 2002

Wouldn't that be more properly called "Mercedes-Benz crap" ????

sandyboy · March 2002

In newer models, 1996 forward, there are basically 4 models. The entry level is the SE, one step up is the Sport, the DeLuxe model is the Classic, while the top of the line is the Limited. The differences between them are the level of "options" that are standard, and the interior/exterior trim. Prior to the Limited (in 1996/1997) the top of the line was the "Country". In 1998 the Country gave way to the Limited. These all have the 4.0Litre 6 Cyl motor, while many (but not all) SE models have the 4-Cyl motor, which is too small for the vehicle, and not really desireable. The six cylinder was an option in the SE, but less than 1/2 the SE(s) had it. 95% of all Limiteds have leather interior and dual 6-way power seats and heated seat feature. It was standard equipment in all 98, 99, 2000 Limiteds, and went to the option list for 2001, but most 2001 had it too. The Classic is basically a Limited, with manual seats & cloth interior.
The build split is appox like this: 60% are Sports, 9% are SEs, 20% are Classics and 11% are Limiteds. Most dealer (other than Jeep) have no clue of the differences, calling them all Cherokee Sports. They think that is the name of all of them! I have gone to look at "Cherokee Sports" only to find it's a Classic, or Limited or SE !

tmac00 · March 2002

I am already in withdrawal. Sold my 97 Cherokee Sport had to buy a (pause, sniffle) minivan. First time I am without a Jeep since the 80's. 1978 CJ 5, 1980 CJ 7, 1997 TJ (Wrangler in the US) and a 97 Cherokee. Loved them all. The problem I have now is I can't drive an automatic, pull up to park turn it off and unable to get the key out! Oh yeah, you have to put it in park, thanks for letting me get some of this off my chest. As soon as the kids (1 and 3 yrs old) are older, it's back to Jeeps for me.

arlodog · March 2002

at 10,ooo miles i had to have my front brake rotors replaced, this was a warranty item, today I took it in with the same problem a shaking steering wheel when breaking, milage is now 24000. now they tell me they need to machine the rotors. this seems excessive to me two break jobs in 24000 miles? not happy about this at all. this is a 2000 classic. this vehicloe has been only ok, it is my first jeep and will be my last,
Any input on the break issue would be helpful

anonymous02 · March 2002

I think you meant brake jobs and braking.

However, under the circumstances, maybe not.

?

arlodog · March 2002

sorry for the spelling, have just talked to the service manager and he says tough luck, denies a problem with rotors. Many posts on ntsb site about this. he asked me if iwas usuing it to tow.have never towed a thing. chrysler has chosen to ignore this, i will not be buying from them again

sebring95 · March 2002

If I held a grudge against every vehicle I'd had a problem with I'm not sure what I'd be driving.

The unwritten DC policy on the rotors is the first ones are free during the 36K warranty. Second ones are on you. Technically, they are only covered under the 12K warranty. My first set were swapped at 24K, and I have a slight vibration again at 36K on my '01. I've found that they vibrate worse after towing or very hard braking. They make aftermarket rotors that will fix the problem, but they cost about $200. I don't think you'll find too many manufacturers willing to put $200 rotors on their vehicles, particularly rather cheap ones.

anonymous02 · March 2002

Is this true of Wranglers as well? I have a 1997 Sport.

Jeep Cherokee

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