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Comments
The thing is I heard about this problem happening on Grands and Cherokees and I baby my brakes. No hard stops and if it's even a medium stop I make sure I have enough room to roll a little to move the brake pads around.
BTW, the main cause for the warped rotors seems to be improper torquing of the wheel lugnuts and hard braking.
From what I've seen, rotors are one of the biggest complaint area on ALOT of trucks/suvs so I'm not sure where you're going to get by giving up on a company for something you can fix for $200 and never deal with it again. You could buy something else and have the same problem. Most of my cars have had very few brake/rotor problems, but I've had a couple problem cars there also, and first thing I did was upgrade the brakes and get on with my life.
You may want to try a reputable tranny shop (not AA$CO) instead of the dealership. You didn't say what "a ton of money" is, but alot of dealers do nothing more than swap in a rebuilt tranny which is usually expensive. A good tranny shop should be able to take it apart and fix it for less. No idea on cost as you're the first I've never seen anyone have trouble with these at anything less than rediculous miles. Sorry, I think you got a bummer.
Also, if you're concerned about your Jeep's braking, change your rear drums to discs for around a grand (but this is really important if you do serious towing or have an extra $1000 and you've exhausted every other Jeep modification, which I think is impossible).
Another point, Jeep dealers I have found are the biggest jerks and idiots out there, Jeep service technicians aren't much better. Although they are by far the best off road vehicle, Jeeps consistently rate poor in customer satisfaction at dealerships because of this. Chances are
they will tell you to replace half your braking system (new rotors, pads, etc.) I personally have a private mechanic most of my major stuff and Dodge dealer do my minor stuff (e.g. oil changes, etc.) Jeeps are some of the simplest cars to work on because the design is for the most part almost 20 years old. It's simple, but it's proof that if it's done once and right it works. Most Jeep repairs therefore can be performed by any good mechanic, regardless of the brand of car he or she specializes in. My overall advice, find one, and don't loose their business card. Jeeps are great cars and will outlive milage any other car out there in terms of durability, and milage. The engine is bulletproof, the Unibody is great, just occasionally minor components sometimes fail. Just remember to do your maintnence, don't abuse your car too much, and if you can deal with a bit of road noise and a somewhat harsh ride, a Cherokee will by far outlast you any other SUV on the market.
Daughter dearest had the vehicle die on her on two different occasions. First while rounding corner, second on access road accelerating from stoplight. I drove vehicle for an afternoon, with no such problems. Left it running in driveway to get something from house. It died right after I got out. Restarted immediately with no problem.
Took it to the dealer this morning ( I didn't think my usual guy would have the electronic equipment to read any error codes ). They called back in about an hour to tell me that the crank sensor(?) need to be changed ( $225) and that the throttle body was carboned up and needed to be cleaned ($160).
Anybody out there experienced this or something similar? Also, are these repair prices in line?
Any help/imput would be sincerely appreciated.
tidester
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SUVs
After 1996, Jeep moved this slip joint from inside the transfer case (where it was lubed by the transfer case oil) to outside it, and used a heavy grease on the splines. This grease gets hard, and will not slip properly when you have force on it. I HAD the exact same problem with my '96 XJ, but resolved it. You will need to pull the driveshaft (4-8MM bolts on rear U joint).
There is a boot held in place with 2 metal straps. These straps clip together and are somewhat re-useable if you spread the notch out, and can get it back on. I used a large wire cutters to crimp mine back on. You can also replace these with heavy nylon straps.
Clean the splines very well (I used carb cleaner and a brush) and replace the grease with Loctite Silver Antiseize (don't substitute this). You can find where to get it at:
http://www.loctite.com/catalog/product.html?ProductLine=ASSILVER
Apply it liberally, and get it down inside the grooves of the splines. Re-assemble and test. You'll be amazed.
One caution, mark the U joint and replace the straps and bolts exactly as they presently are. I use those yellow metal markers like the junkyards use (available from NAPA). Also mark exactly which tooth the spline is set into, and put it back where it was.
I think Jorge10 bought a lemon or flood vehicle. Carfax isn't near as smart as some think, and I've seen "clean titled" vehicles after they've been totally submerged. Had a big flood here in '98 and shady characters were coming from all over the country buying truckloads of cars. Mainly older ones, but you know even the new ones aren't going to the crusher. They'll show up somewhere and probably with a clean title.
I own a 2001 Cherokee with the 60th Anniversary Edition and have 27,000 miles on her. Not a signal problem so far. I would highly recommend one. If you a miser pinching pennies and wanting 30 mpg, this is not the vehicle for you.
I am averaging 18.85 mpg, which is 80% highway, 20% city. Not good, but not bad either. If you are looking for high mpg's, go with a diesel vw.
Back to the reliabilty, I have spent most of my life under the hood in one form or another under many vehicles. This Cherokee has been the most reliable vehicle I have ever owned. As long as you change her fluids regularly and respect her, she will last you a good long time.
Don't get me started on the suspension modifications and bigger tires, that's where it starts getting real expensive...
The next step is decent aftermarket front brake rotors and pads. Three sets of OEM rotors by 58,000 miles is a real problem, I should have done it right in the first place.
I am looking to buy a new car to replace my 2001 BMW 330ci, which was stolen about two weeks ago. Two weeks after I bought the BMW I feel in love with the Land Rover Discovery SE Series II. Now that I have a second chance I have been researching it and found it to be in the same price class as the Jeep Grand Cherokee. Has anyone considered the Disco and the Jeep Grand Cherokee while shopping? What are your thoughts of the Land Rovers now that they just finished 5 years with BMW and now are a Ford family product?
Please advise.
Steve
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SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Class III hitch installed. According to the owners manual there is a 5000lb towing capacity.
I am interested in getting a camper to tow. The camper is listed as GVWR 3260 and GVW 1897.
My questions are:
Can I tow this camper?
What other items would I need?(oil/tranny cooler,weight distribution hitch, etc)
I'm new towing so please bear with me.
Tom
tmonahan@hotmail.com
"Owner notification is expected to begin during May 2002. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact DaimlerChrysler at 1-800-853-1403."
Steve
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