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Jeep Cherokee

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  • sandyboysandyboy Member Posts: 114
    A little while ago, herein, someone posted about a stretched Cherokee, I believe like a 1988/89 Laredo 4-Door 4WD with a couple photos.

    Well, looking into something ELSE, I found out about the aforementioned! They were made by "Fairway Coach" Of Ontario, Canada. Some were sent back into America, but that # is unknown. Also unknown is how many years they made them, nor in total how many were made.

    I came across a photo of one, with just about 15 words under the picture about it.

    Hopefully, those who were interested in it, are still among us!!
  • siberianlocustsiberianlocust Member Posts: 1
    Hi there guys, I know that a lot of you may not like this post and might flame me...but here goes! My only option right now to haul my horse is to buy a steel 2 horse trailer. I realize that the steel is a LOT heavier than the aluminum, however I cannot afford a steel. I'm wondering if people have pulled a bumper pull, steel, 2-horse with a Jeep Cherokee Limited before? I realize that I have a 5,000 lb towing limit, and as long as I keep it under that limit, will I be okay? Please email me at siberianlocust@yahoo.com as I do not check the board often, but I'd really like to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
  • mscholtesmscholtes Member Posts: 3
    Hi all, I'm really new to the town hall stuff and can't find my way to the right board so please forgive me if I've posted in the wrong spot.

    I am at my wits end with my 1993 4WD sport. I have had it to two different shops trying to figure out why it is overheating, had the thermostat replaced twice, and now it's even hotter than it used to be. The dealer's shop said the first shop didn't put in an actual Jeep thermostat, but the dealer's seems to be worse! I should say that it hasn't ever actually overheated, but it's come really close to the red line on the gauge. The air works just fine, as does the heat and fan. Just about everything has been replaced on this vehicle since I've had it - it seems like the interior and the engine are the only original parts left. If any of you have tips on what the heck to do with my little lemon (other than trade it in or burn it), please help! Thanks so much.
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Member Posts: 237
    Have you checked out all of the hoses as well as the radiator itself? Has it ever been flushed?
  • billpayerbillpayer Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Cherokee with 37k. I've had my rotors turned 3 times already. At 9k, 16k, and 36k. My dealer refuses to replace them with new ones. I have tried everything. Does anybody have the magic words that can get me new rotors.

    Also, my tires are 37k and wobble so bad I cannot drive above 50mph. Goodyear dealer checked them out and said nothing was wrong. Again, neither the Goodyear or car dealer will replace anything. Way to stand behind their product!
  • 325325 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 4 liter Cherokee Classic, '99 model 55,000 miles.

    Lately it has been surgining when you hit a bump in the road.
    The speedometer jumps, the check engine light comes on momentarily. It feels like you are being pushed from behind and then everything goes back to normal. If the cruise control is on, it turns off.

    Anyone have any ideas before I spend money at the mechanic's place ???
  • mscholtesmscholtes Member Posts: 3
    I haven't had it flushed yet - it's going in next week for that. But yes, I've checked hoses and such. I hope that's all it needs, but after this, if it doesn't help, I'm stumped!
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Member Posts: 237
    DC customer service really sucks if you don't have a good dealership. I had my rotors replaced no questions asked (I found a really good dealership) at 19k km and they've been fine since. The key it seems is to make sure the lug nuts are tightened properly to about 85-95lb-ft.

    If (and when) my rotors go again I'll replace them with a good aftermarket rotor. I'd try another dealership and if you can't get any satisfaction, go after DC. There is a TSB out for earlier model Cherokees that might help. The worst that can happen is you pay $100 for some aftermarket rotors and no longer deal with the dealership for brakes.
  • opera_house_wkopera_house_wk Member Posts: 326
    Just had one of those infamous crank sensors fail. In order to make sure it was that part failing, I had the cab instrumented with LEDs and meters. I connected my DVM to the crank sensor with a long wire. Cranking about 0.2VAC, at warm idle 0.75, normal driving 1.5 - 2.2 VAC. Resistance cold was 210 ohms and the new one was 250. The Haynes manual, true to form, sait It should be an open circuit. What was interesting was it would drive fine till I shut off the engine. Then it wouldn't start till it cooled down. After shutting off the engine, I would switch the DVM to ohms and see the resistance quickly climb. Seems the AC voltage would break down the oxidation layer of the connection while the engine was still running. Of interest is if you measure the HZ of the sensor, it's a close match for the RPM of the engine.
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I agree with vinweasel on the rotors. My dealer gave me a free set at 25K miles for free. So far (at 50K now) they are doing ok. A good set of aftermarkets will fix them for a long time.

    Goodyear Wrangler RT/S suck. I just recently swapped mine for Michelin LTX-AT and they are an all-terrain tire (the goodyears are highway tires) and they do everything better than the Goodyears. No vibration problems coming up on 10K miles on them. If you don't need an all-terrain, the Michelin LTX-MS are similar to the Goodyear RT/S in terms of traction, but are MUCH more comfortable and better in every way. I don't see where you're going to get much satisfaction from the Goodyear dealer unless you have an obviously faulty tire. On the balancer, mine looked fine, but on the vehicle they vibrated like crazy no matter how they were rotated. With the Michelins I have absolutely zero steering wheel vibration, and everything else is smooth as glass as well. Jeep probably could have sold 5X as many Cherokees just by putting good tires on in the first place. It rides, handles, brakes, and runs soooo much better just with a marginally more expensive set of tires.
  • imaginosimaginos Member Posts: 27
    I hope to get some feedback on four things:

    1. For a 1997 Cherokee Sport with the "up-country" suspension package, what set of new shocks are the overall best? Or even, if there is more than one style to choose from, just want some feedback from those who have replaced their shocks lately. Although I only have 49K miles, I think they are toast due to age....

    2. Same vehicle -- anyone had to replace the throttle position sensor (TPS)? Or the idle actuator valve (or stepper motor)? I have a manual trans. and when you let off the gas quickly and let it go on back-pressure (no clutch), it sometimes won't kick down the idle, and will idle at between 1200 and about 2000 rpm. You can clear it by simply tapping on the pedal. Sometimes the check engine light comes on and the code says its the TPS, but I think many things could affect the way it idles. Hate to start throwing parts at it.

    3. Next, the OBD-II also has had a code for the manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor from time to time, usually after long periods of back pressure coming down long mountain roads (both dirt and paved). It seems to self-clear after a few days, but was wondering if the MAP sensor can be "slightly" bad. It's done this since it was basically new...

    4. Finally, has anyone had their 4WD shift linkage rattle alot. It sounds like the transfer case is falling apart, but I can usually stop the sound by holding the 4WD shift lever up a little bit. Is there any way to tighten this or replace bushings to quiet it back down. Addionally, it sure seems like the drive-train is getting more and more noisy in this jeep...especially when in overdrive.

    Thanks much for any input; Bret...
  • ecatecat Member Posts: 11
    I'm in the same boat, decided to do some research.

    Found that there are several companies that offer a Jeep Cooling system solution, in once case offering a bored out thermostat housing and a 180 degree thermostat for $39, all the way up to a GDI 3 row radiator, with combo tranny/oil cooler and dual electric fans for around $400

    I've replaced the thermostat (author note: DO NOT overtighten the thermostat housing or that cracking sound you heard will cost you an additional $30 at Autozone) to no avail, and will be replacing the radiator with the GDI model.

    If you go back and read the history of posts here you'll several related to the engine running hot.
  • imaginosimaginos Member Posts: 27
    I ordered my 1997 Sport with a 5 speed and the "up-country" suspension package. I could not put the tow package on it with the 5 speed, but the "up-country" package included the "heavy duty" cooling system upgrade. I think the tow package did too, but not sure...

    I promptly added a Class III hitch and pulled a Ski-Centurion 21 foot ski boat around with it until I bought a Silverado last year.

    In all that time, even pulling on long trips, the temp always has stayed at 210. Only on the hottest days pulling up hills did I see the temp climb to maybe 230 max. But this was like one or two times and I had the A/C on because it was about 100 degrees outside in southern Utah. Other than that, the temp is always pegged at 210. It sounds to me like they should have made this cooling system stock. Does anyone know what the difference is between the two stock cooling systems? Also, is it harder to keep an auto cool versus a standard?

    PS - regarding my post #712 above, I just ordered four Ranco RSX shocks. Has anyone put these on a Cherokee? I'll put my feedback up here when I've got them on....
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    question number 4.... my 1999 sport has a growling driveline noise (sometimes) and dealer installed some replacement bushings in the 4wd shifter assy. i think it was a tsb. didn't fix my problem but might help U.
  • shanshiershanshier Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 89 Laredo with it running hot and more recently actually overheating. I replaced the fan clutch, radiator, water pump, pressure bottle and cap before going to a shop here in town who did a few tests. They found I had a blown head gasket. It was hard to detect because it is apparently just between a cooling jacket and a cylinder and it only pushs exhaust gas into the coolant when the car is under a load accelerating onto the highway or maintaining highway speed or running the A/C. The car seems fine in the city but on the highway I overheat in 9 short miles. The problem has gotten gradually worse and is now rendering my Jeep with 201,000 miles pretty much useless until I can get it fixed. Take the car to a mechanic and ask them to try a block tester on the coolant bottle to see if you are leaking exhaust gas into your coolant.
  • hansm14hansm14 Member Posts: 16
    I owned a 95 Cherokee Sport, bought it brand new, and recently it saved three peoples lives, who had their seatbelts on.In a major crash and rollover it totaled the vehicle but our lives were spared. We walked away.Amazing!A good strong vehicle.I want another one.Bring back the cherokees.
  • momonthegomomonthego Member Posts: 14
    Hi all, we are new owners of a 2001 Sport. I am wondering if anyone could help me out on where we could get a cargo area cover? Thanks!
  • sandyboysandyboy Member Posts: 114
    Your local JEEP dealer has an accessory folder of about 8 pages, (sometimes they are in the showroom) and in it there are tons of stuff! They have among 100's of other items cargo nets, cargo area protection trays (cover full area, rubber maid-made embossed with he JEEP logo, dyed to match interior in Agate or Camel and they are removable & washable) plus cargo area tie downs and wire mesh barriers to keep pets in the back from jumpin' to the front, and all kinds of other stuff. I bought a couple (tray & tie downs) and find their prices to be fair & product quality superior. Check it out + the guarantee their stuff!
  • boggseboggse Member Posts: 1,048
    Contact these people:


    http://www.auto-parts-direct.com/jeep.htm


    They can get anything Mopar makes for less than the dealer price.

  • lindsay040lindsay040 Member Posts: 6
    Hey everyone,
    I'm having major problems with my 95 Cherokee Sport. It's been in 3 different shops & now it's at the dealer because no one can seem to find the problem. For the past month or so, it randomly stalls out while I am driving. Or I can be at a stoplight & when I step on the gas to go, I lose all power & the wheel locks up. It's scary - the other day, I was merging onto the interstate (probably only going about 45mph) & the RPM gauge fell all the way to 0 & the car just stopped running. Even when I'm at high speeds, the engine misses and stumbles and it seems like the RPM gauge is all over the place. Recently had major tuneup (spark plugs, wires, hoses, distributor cap, rotor button ...) & fuel injection flushed. Everyone seems to think the problem is fuel-related but no one knows exactly what ... very frustrating. The dealer even seems to be at a loss. I'm beginning to lose my faith in Jeeps & mechanics ... can someone help???
  • dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    maybe you have water in your gas tank. try adding a can of dry gas or drain the tank completely.
  • lindsay040lindsay040 Member Posts: 6
    One of the shops put a drying agent in the gas tank & it didn't help. Haven't tried draining the tank completely though ... thanks for the advice. That almost seems too easy, so hopefully that'll be it!
  • lindsay040lindsay040 Member Posts: 6
    Just in case draining the gas tank doesn't do the trick ... has anyone else out there had problems with a 95 Cherokee (or any car for that matter) stalling out randomly & stumbling at high speeds??? If so, please help!
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Member Posts: 237
    Jeeps Unlimited
    Naxja

    Both are very good resources (naxja more for technical quesitons)
  • lindsay040lindsay040 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks! I'll do that right now.
  • cherokeejimcherokeejim Member Posts: 2
    It might be some sort of an intermittant interruption of electrical power. The clue is that you said your steering wheel locks up. If your ignition is still on when the engine stalls, and you still have electrical power, your steering wheel shouldn't lock up. OTOH, maybe you have just lost power steering, and your wheel isn't locked, it just becomes very hard to turn.

    BTW, I have a '93 Cherokee Sport with the 4.0 L and 5 speed. Over 170,000 mi. and it's been bullet proof--the most reliable car I've ever owned, including a Honda Accord. Engine still as strong as the day I got it. Actually feels stronger. Wish they still made it, or at least put the 5-speed into the GC. Don't like the Liberty. Too cutesy.

    Jim
  • lindsay040lindsay040 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the tips. Someone mentioned the crank position sensor so I'm going to have the dealer check that out. I never even thought about losing power steering ... that's probably what it is. I agree with you about the Liberty - not rugged at all & way too cutesy.
  • sandyboysandyboy Member Posts: 114
    I agree. The Liberty is/was a mistake! I rushed out & ordered an '01 Cherokee Limited, getting just under the wire of cut-off, as I was scared of what the Liberty might be, and it brought forth my worst fears. Had I waited, I'd be in a Ford Escape, but I am much happier in my JC. Thank you. Mercedes should not meddle in what they don't know!
  • dorrie9dorrie9 Member Posts: 2
    Lindsey,
    My '98 Cherokee also stalls and misses, but only on the highway after I've driven about 100 miles. It's in the shop right now, but the dealer can't figure out what's wrong. Did you ever find out what was causing you Jeep to stall and miss? My problem sounds a lot like yours, but the electricial system doesn't shut off. The radio and AC stay on, but the engine dies. I had my crank shaft sensor replaced. That helped for a while, but the problem keeps occurring. I'm afraid to go out of town. It died while I was trying to merge onto the interstate.
    Help!
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    Let me know what you find if anything. I have a similar problem on my '01, but it happens maybe once a month and I do about 200 miles a day. Hard to track down something that rare. Mine usually runs perfect unless I run fairly hard, then shut-down for a few minutes and restart. It idles rough and has low power until I start driving then it's fine. Has also done it after its idled for 40 minutes or so. First time happened around 7K miles, and maybe 10 times since. I'm over 50K miles now.
  • lindsay040lindsay040 Member Posts: 6
    Hey guys. Well the mechanic never actually found anything definite. But he said it was probably one of four possibilities (with 2 being the most likely). He mentioned the throttle positioning sensor (TPS), the idle air control, the crank shaft sensor & the ignition coil. He said the TPS & the idle air control were the most likely problems, so I had those replaced. And so far, so good. I've had my jeep back for 2 whole days now & I've probably driven it about 150 miles & I've had no problems. So I would suggest those 2 parts (especially you, dorrie, since you already had the crank shaft sensor replaced). Good Luck & let me know what you decide & if it works ... just in case!!
  • indy11indy11 Member Posts: 1
    I'm a college student that finally scrimped and saved enough to buy my first Cherokee, and I'm so excited I can't stand it. I started small, SE 2 door, mint condition, 30,000 miles, owner traded it for a truck to haul stuff for his business. Mechanic says it's in A-1 shape but I want to keep it that way. Is there anything in particular I should be on the lookout for? I've read enough reviews to make me dizzy.
  • sandyboysandyboy Member Posts: 114
    You may have started small, but in so doing you wound up with the "rarest" model AND bodystyle. Good Luck with it!
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    Sorry for the major spam attack, but this one kinda sounds like fun...

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    Thanks for your consideration!

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Member Posts: 237
    Did you get the 6 or 4 cylinder? 2 doors are fairly rare.
  • joshjeepjoshjeep Member Posts: 1
    Hi everyone--I have a question about my 1996 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4x4 4.0 6cyl...this vehicle has 158,000 miles on it and has never given me a minute's trouble (knock on wood). Excuse my ignorance, but does this vehicle have a timing CHAIN that needs to be checked/replaced at this stage? I have had the serpentine belt replaced, but I am unclear as to whether this vehicle has a timing chain. The owner's manual says nothing about a timing chain. Can someone help? THANKS
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Member Posts: 237
    You do have one and the only information I can find between my Haynes and my FSM for an '01 is that you can take the cover off on the block and check the chain for deflection by moving the chain side to side. My Haynes says that if it moves more than 1/2 inch the chain and sprockets should be replaced.

    BTW, both the Haynes and FSM don't mention ever checking the timing chain but the FSM only goes up to 120k miles and the Haynes uses 30k mile intervals to check the same things.
  • shucknetshucknet Member Posts: 98
    Just bought a 1990 Cherokee 4x4 with the I4.0L engine - has 148,000 miles. Drives nice, except for a "minor" detail. The transmission leaks like a sieve when the fluid gets heated up. Is this a common problem for these? It appears to be the front seal, but I can't quite tell for sure.

    Thoughts?
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Member Posts: 237
    It's ATF and not Oil, right? I've heard of problems with the rear main seal that can go after a while but that usually results in oil loss. I don't believe the replacement job is too hard, it's just dirty and the seal has to be on just right.
  • imaginosimaginos Member Posts: 27
    The timing chain is not as critical in this engine as in other newer technology engines (OHC). This engine is not an "interference" engine, like Honda engines (for example). This means that if the timing chain breaks, it will simply quit running - and will not damage the motor. However, if the timing belt breaks in an "interference" engine, it will crash the valves into the pistons and engine death occurs. That is why you have to change the timing belt every 60K miles on a Honda or even a Toyota Tacoma etc, etc, etc, as they all have interference engines.

    My 1997 Sport has 50K miles and I've never checked it, and don't plan to unless it breaks or I hit 150K miles, or stops running well.

    BTW - vin weasel - I did lose my rear main seal at about 30K miles. Pissed me off quite a bit, just barely got it in under my 36 month warranty - I had to teach the dealer how to know it was the rear main seal. They tried to tell me it was engine "sweat". Dealers are idiots. I think this could have been caused from pulling a boat with it a lot, increasing crank case pressure, and eventually blowing out the seal.

    Installed Rancho RSX shocks a few weeks ago. They seem OK, still rides rough, but handles large obstacles on mountain roads very well. Still sucks at washboards - can't even control it. But I think that is the case will all Cherokees - my friends Civic could outdrive the crap out of me on 40 miles of dirt road washboards. It must be soft enough to keep the wheels on the ground - unlike my Cherokee....
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Member Posts: 237
    How much fluid was your engine losing? What kind was it? Do you think it could leak transmission fluid from there? I don't have a heck of a lot of experience with them.

    My first real experience with washboard in the Jeep was coming home one night on a gravel road going about 90km/h. I hit some big washboard and the vehicle went sideways on me. I quickly regained control and slowed down. I've never had a vehicle do that to me before, but then again I never had a Solid Axle Jeep. I know now to avoid the rough stuff at high speed or to at least slow down a bunch. I think softer valved shocks, like Old Man Emu, might help lessen the effects or maybe the adjustible Ranchos. I have no problems going at speed down some of the forest trails. The vehicle eats up the larger bumps fairly well and I never feel like I'm loosing control.
  • vanleightonvanleighton Member Posts: 3
    Could anyone tell me what kind of mileage they are getting with the 4.0Liter engine? I'm interested in highway, in-town, and combination. I'm considering trading in my thirsty Liberty for another 4WD. Thanks in advance....
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    between 19-20mpg with mainly highway/commuting. Probably 80% highway, 20% city. On long all-highway trips I can get around 24mpg. I'm pretty hard on the throttle most of the time and run 75mph usually. I'm sure 65mph and sensible driving would make things a bit better:)
  • imaginosimaginos Member Posts: 27
    Vin:

    1997 Sport 4x4 5sp. There was engine oil dripping down the bell housing. Just enough to make a drip in the driveway evey now and then. I think most of it was blowing off while driving, but that area was always "wet". I never lost enough between oil changes to even add oil, but I don't like to own vehicles that drip oil.....plus I got it in under warranty. I really don't think you could have tranny fluid leak down the front of the bell housing. It's just too far in front of the tranny box (at least on the 5 sp.).

    More washboards: Same deal, it'll walk sideways and you'll loose some control until you are off of the bumps or off the road and rolled! I think it's a Jeep thing, a combination of stiff suspension, stiff shocks, short wheelbase and solid front axle. My Rancho RSX shocks are auto-adjustable, but perhaps the 9000 series fully manual adjustable shocks would help - you can make them really soft or really stiff. Like you said, it does fine on larger more isolated bumps and rocks, but those washboards make the whole Jeep go into some sort of resonant oscillation - sucks....

    vanleighton:

    Mileage - I have every tank of gas documented since it was new, but have only added up the statistics for the first four years (97 to 01). My driving is 80% very short (1-3) mile trips to and from work and 20% actually highway trips. About 7% would be pulling a boat as well, so that will bring the averages down some. Also, keep in mind it is a 5 speed tranny:

    Total average for four years all conditions is 17.01 mpg with a standard deviation of 2.47 mpg. Best mileage tank of gas was 22.4 mpg (of course with no boat and all highway miles). Worst mileage tank of gas was 9.8 mpg (all pulling a boat with a lot of hills). Also, I live at about 4500 feet elevation which may be why I never see this 24 mpg stuff that people talk of. I just can't believe anyone gets 24 mpg out of that 4.0 L engine!!!! You are lucky...

    Hope this helps.
  • boggseboggse Member Posts: 1,048
    I get about 18-19 in the city. On long trips I get 24 if I keep it below 75mph. It seems once I hit 75 it drops to about 20-22. Maybe an aerodynamic limit?
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Member Posts: 237
    I average about 18mpg Imperial in the summer (14 is the worst in winter, ouch) for 100% city driving and the best I've had on the highway was 26+ Imperial. I think those numbers convert to 15.5 city and 22.3 roughly. This is with a drop-in K&N filter and Mobil-1 synthetic oil.

    The funny thing is, and I've heard this from quite a few XJ owners, is that your mileage will improve as the Jeep ages. Mine has gone up considerably ( a couple mpg) from when it was new to about 18k km (when I switched to synthetic and the K&N.
  • cmtrurancmtruran Member Posts: 5
    great forum. anyways my question is this: how do I know if a jeep cherokee has the up-country suspension package and the Trac-lock differential package(this is the one where the rear diff is basically a limited slip right?)? Are there serial numbers somewhere on the axles or some other place? Just wondering because I want these options on a used cherokee. Any info appreciated!!!!
  • imaginosimaginos Member Posts: 27
    Up-country suspension: I'll have to dig into my literature from when I ordered my 97 with that option - first recall to my mind is that the up-country suspension deleted the rear stabilizer (sway?) bar. You could do some looking under the back-end and if this is true, you should see a sway bar on most Cherokees.

    Ok - found my stuff - this option adds the following:

    1. Fuel tank / transfer case / front suspension skid plates. But - you could be deceived here, because these skid plates are an option all on their own.

    2. Trac-lok differential (limited slip). Unlike a posi, you can't simply jack up the back and turn one rear wheel and see if the other will turn the same direction. With the limited slip, they will turn opposite directions like a conventional axle hanging in the air. Perhaps others have an easy way to see if it has the limited slip.

    3. Upgraded engine cooling system - again, not sure how you tell as I've not really looked at any other Cherokee but mine. My guess is that this upgrade also comes as part of the tow package too - so you could be deceived as well on this one.

    4. Full size spare tire.

    5. Front / rear tow hooks.

    6. Off highway increased height suspension (I think it's about 3/4" to 1" higher than without) - may be hard to notice.

    7. You're supposed to see a liftgate mounted "Up Country" decal, but mine never had that - nor have I ever seen one - ever. So not sure if that is real or what.

    Overall - I'm sort of pissed becasue Edmunds does not have this option when you go to figure out how much your Cherokee is worth, but the option retailed for $835.00 and you can't even add that to the vehicle value on this site.

    Anyway - hope it helps, but sounds hard to me to tell for sure if you're getting it.
  • sandyboysandyboy Member Posts: 114
    The REAL Clue are the front Tow Hooks. This is the one item that is not offerred as a "Stand-Alone" option. Nor is it in the Trailer Tow Pkg. Front Tow Hooks = Up Country Suspension.
  • vin_weaselvin_weasel Member Posts: 237
    on the rear diff that will state to use the special additive when changing the gear oil. Plus you can always have a dealership run the VIN.
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