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About the Maintenance and Repair Message Board
bonnie_rick
Member Posts: 115
This Conference is the place to talk about your
maintenance tips and any problems you are
experiencing, or have experienced, with your
vehicle. Share your skills, questions, and
resources with us.
While we can't offer a guaranteed fix for every
problem that's posted, it is the Conference's goal
to help steer people toward a solution.
So, first introduce yourself and your vehicles.
Tell us a little about what you're looking for from
this Conference, and stop by this topic regularly
to help each other find the right topic for the
problem.
Bonnie Rick
Town Hall Community Manager, edmunds.com
maintenance tips and any problems you are
experiencing, or have experienced, with your
vehicle. Share your skills, questions, and
resources with us.
While we can't offer a guaranteed fix for every
problem that's posted, it is the Conference's goal
to help steer people toward a solution.
So, first introduce yourself and your vehicles.
Tell us a little about what you're looking for from
this Conference, and stop by this topic regularly
to help each other find the right topic for the
problem.
Bonnie Rick
Town Hall Community Manager, edmunds.com
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Assisting him, as needed, will be Mr_Shiftright, soon to be formerly of the Smart Shopper Conference, and now the Host of Sports Cars, (formerly Coupes and Convertibles) as well as Classic Cars.
Phew, try saying that, three times, fast... And now, a word from your Host...
Bonnie Rick
Town Hall Community Manager, edmunds.com
A little about myself. I'm currently employed as a mechanic at an auto repair shop in the San Francisco Bay Area that specializes in Volvos and Toyotas. I've also had a bit of experience with Nissans and Mazdas, but not too much. I prefer to work on Vovlo 240s, but I have owned a 122, several 140s and a 164, so I know something about those models as well. My work also allows me to work on Vovlo 740s and a decent selection of Toyotas. My wife and I currently own a 1993 Toyota Corolla and two Vespa motorscooters (I'm still trying to figure those things out). The Corolla is a great car (I'd recommend it to anyone) and the scooters are, in a word, interesting (easy mechanics, confounding electrics).
Why do I work on cars? Well, I didn't really ever want to, but it just sort of happened. My father and his business partner opened a shop in 1981, when I was 12. During the summer of '82, when I was between seventh and eighth grades, my father encouraged me to go out and find a summer project. We discussed the idea of a summer project on the first Sunday of summer. He said that he'd give me a week to find a project, or else I'd have to work for him at the shop that summer. Well, on Monday evening, when dad got home from a long day of working on cars and running a business, I was still in my PJs watching television. He saw that I really hadn't been focusing too hard on finding a summer project, so guess where I wound up on Tuesday morning? Yup, you guessed it. At the shop.
I worked at the shop every summer thereafter until I graduated college (1993). For the entire year after I graduated college, I worked at the shop--it wasn't a job in my degree field, but it was a job! After that initial year, I quit working on cars and took a desk job at the San Francisco International Airport. After a year and a half at the Airport, I quit and returned to work for my dad and his partner. I've been working on cars continually for the past two and a half years.
I look forward to seeing old faces and meeting some new ones!
Despite their "luxurious" reputation, Volvos have not traditionally been categorized as "luxury vehicles" in the same way that such cars as Mercedes' or Jaguars have (it's mainly a price thing). A good many used Volvos are available at reasonable prices.
But seriously,...
I don't know which of these categories tp put this in, so I'm placing it here.
My '95 Civic EX coupe is vibrating. Feels like a cv joint. I replaced a pair of wheels hoping it might be a bent rim (and it still could be). I don't regret this. The worst that could happen is that eventually I'll have 4 good redundant rims for snow tires. I probably should have figured it's not the wheels, since the speed of the oscillation doesn't seem to vary with the speed of the car.
The question is, how much money would you expect the work to cost? I ask this so that they don't surprise me with a bill 3 times larger than it should be.
Oddly, the factory manual has very little about changing cv's, or I might be tempted to do it myself.
PS to Gus:
'88 760 Wagon for $4500. Let's assume reasonable mileage and maintenance. Any thoughts about the car? Strengths/weaknesses, etc. You like the 6cyl?
First question: Are you thinking of having just the CV joints replaced/repacked, or are you thinking of getting new axles (w/new CV joints attached)?
Second question: Don't bother with the wagon. The Volvo six-cylinder engine was a dog. I believe it was engineered by Renault. Recurring head gasket problems and timing-cover leaks made the 260s and 760s real problem cars. You don't see many 260s or 760s on the road anymore, and there's a reason for that! A 760 Turbo (which has the 4-cyl turbo engine) is a good car, worth considering.
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I didn't know that repacking was an option. Also didn't know that new axles might be necessary. Is it common to need new axles when a cv gets to the point of noticeable vibration? Axles sounds expensive. Repacking would be great if that'll do the trick.
What I had in mind was 2 new cv's and whatever ancillary junk you need (seals, boots, I don't know).
What are the criteria that a mechanic uses to tell whether it'll require repacking, new axles, or something in between (aside from his fiscal needs at the moment)?
Thanks.
As far as Volvo stuff goes: The engines in the 260 and the 760 were V-6 engines. The problem with the head gaskets was that there was coolant/oil interchange, and the oil would gum up and screw up various engine functions such as the crank case ventilation system. For a Volvo straight-six, you'd have to go back to the 164 (last produced in '74, I think). I've heard that Volvo may be putting a twin-turbo straight six in some of their upcoming (or present) models.
Yep, volv's got an I-6 in there already, transversely mounted, which is, I believe, a first.
Well, I knew all about Volvo's long established safety. I was hoping you were going to tell me that these new, somewhat stylish Volvos (relatively speaking ) were as exciting to drive as the cars Mr. S. pointed out. As I read through your post, and the word "boring" got permanently tattoo'd in my mind, I realized how wrong I was.
OK Mr. S., how about the gist of a new Saab. Yes, the reliability probably isn't proven yet, right? (Same thing that scares me from VW's still, which I can actually afford ) Saabs are fun to drive, I test drove many models while valeting cars. (No, I only got one paycheck, and no bonus for the "testing" part.) Aren't the Swedes engineering marvels, sometimes upstaging Germans? How long do the brakes last? Electronics well built? Turbos cooled and lubricated well enough to last a good long time? And what is unique? (I noticed the body shape, hehe.)
Lots of practical space
great, reliable turbo I-4 engine
Weird enough to be different than the common herd.
Is it as "good" all-around as a German car...that is, could it score as high in all relevant areas, rather than excel in a few?.....no, I don't think so. It's not the best handler, doesn't have the best fit and finish, and has not yet demonstrated the best reliability.
I'd put it over a Volvo, though, at least the S70 and S80, haven't a clue about the C70, so will reserve judgment. The S70 in particular, needs to go back in the barn for a re-do.
I'd expect Saab maintenance costs to be average or higher than average.
Ljd2, the newer car, with fewer miles, and better reputation seem to be a better choice for me.
Of course, if the Stang had a 5.0 liter, the excitement factor could sway me.
Good luck.
In hand? I mean the ENTIRE front clip
P.S. My father is so happy. Now I don't have to bother him every time my car goes doink or clink!!
I have a 97 Plymouth Breeze. The thing idles so rough that I feel like my teeth are going to vibrate out of my head. I took it to the dealer and they said that it was normal. I don't think that could possibly be right. Any ideas???
I also have a problem with it starting. Sometimes it just won't do it. Up until yesterday, it would refuse to start for a few tries, then it would start right up. The check engine light would come on and stay on. Again, I took it to the dealership. They plugged the computer check thing into it, and it read Ignition Coil. They kept my car for a week and then told me that it only needed a tune-up. I got the tune-up done, and $150 dollars later took it home. I got in the car to go back to work and guess what. It wouldn't start. It only happens if the engine is warm. It is usually after it has only been sitting for a few minutes. It cannot be the spark plugs or wires because they were just replaced. I had to have it towed yesterday because it refused to start for over an hour, and I figured that it would just not start at all. Needless to say, when it got to the shop, it started just fine, so they can't figure out what is wrong with it.
Somebody please help me. I am at a loss. Thanks.
Guess what? The dealer guessed wrong and you should have them take that coil right outta there or not charge you for it if it didn't correct the problem...ask them to swap it for an ignition module in their shop and then try the car over there. If it starts, problem solved and you're not out any more money.
Jerry--no, a lower ball joint and a wheel bearing are not big repairs per se, but they may require some disassembly and special tools, depending on the car and depending on whether it is an inner or outer wheel bearing. I'd figure a couple hundred bucks at a reputable shop. The wheel bearing diagnosis is based on what? Noise? How can they know a wheel bearing is bad when they can't see it? (at least a ball joint can be loaded and jiggled around and judged by eye).
So I'd do the ball joint and get another opinion on the wheel bearing, unless it's making quite a bit of noise or they can show you the bad bearing.
good luck!
thanks much for the quick response. The mechanic is very reputable, my family has used him for years. He once saved me 2000 on an engine replacement when I drove a quad 4 and he found a minor problem that he fixed for 60 bucks. Anyway,
he literally tore the car apart. How exactly he found the wheel bearings were bad, I don't know. I assume he saw something or heard something. He did tell me that he could visibly see that the lower ball joint was shot. How do you find out if wheel bearings are bad? Is it extremely noisy or just ride funny?
This is my first visit to this site and I'm really impressed! It's great to have this info online!
I have a question for you...
I own a '94 Nissan Sentra, 71K miles - runs great. I just moved to a new area of town and my old mechanic who I trust completely is now too far away to go to. I went to a new shop and had the oil/filter changed etc. My question is this-
I was informed that my Sentra would/could possibly develop an oil leak in the front casing around 100k-110k miles. To the tune of $1000. to repair. Any truth to this?? Is this problem inherent to this model? Any info would be great!
The reason it's expensive is that it is a bear to get in there and remove the cover! I believe you have to drop the engine off its mounts to do that, along with all the belts and pulleys and accessories and oil pan, etc.
So I think they were quite right in warning you...this will probably happen, but of course it doesn't always and I hope you're lucky! By the way, the leak is really obvious, we aren't talking a drip here, so there will be no doubt in your mind when it happens.
Mr. Shiftright
I'm wondering about the reliability of 1. Turbocharged engines in general and turbocharged Volkswagons in particular vs Hondas. any insights helpfull.
Sometimes the engine configuration is a bit different, so maintenance or repair costs for certain things may be greater than they would be with a non-turbo. For example, replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets on a non-turbo Volvo costs less than it does on a turbocharged Volvo because you need to remove the turbocharger in addition to the exhaust manifold. On the non-turbo, you need only worry about the exhaust manifold.
As a general rule though, it should be sticking out of the cam cover, with a hose running out the other end of it.
Good luck.
When your car makes a funny noise, you can isolate it, at least a little, and have some idea what the mechanic is talking about when he looks at it, or to go the other way, when the mechanic tells you your framulator is overheating, causing the master exonerator to attempt to compensate, you can look it up. In fact in the case of that example, you can bring in the manual and ask him to show you what these parts are, since you weren't able to find them.
I think everybody needs a shop manual.
I've also been launching unprovoked attacks on this site on poor innocent yuppies who buy $40K drivers' cars and don't read the owners' manual: "What's the break-in procedure for my new car? I think the owners' manual said something about keeping it under 100 for the first 60 miles, or under 60 for the first 100 miles or something. Your opinions?"
I've mentioned my '95 Civic EX Coupe's vibration before. I thought it was CV's. Took it to an honest shop, and they didn't think that the vibration was an indication of any problem other than a light, short-wheelbase car with a stiff suspension. I'm glad they didn't want to perform work that they didn't believe in, but I am SURE that it wasn't like this when it was new.
It is somewhat intermittant; it gets a little better and a little worse. It is worst when the car is cold, which I can't figure out at all.
It feels to me like a suspension thing, not an engine thing. It is not engine-speed related. It's not very groundspeed related either, though I think it gets worse above 70mph. When the car's cold though, it's quite noticeable at 30. It feels very much like a flat-spotted tire.
I've jacked it up and rocked the wheels to see if there's lateral play. There isn't. I've turned the wheels by hand listening for wheel bearings. Sounds OK. I've replaced all four tires and the 2 rear wheels.
The suspension is completely stock and this did not start suddenly, after some work or accident or anything that I can think of, although it's possible that I could have hit some little thing like a pothole and I just don't remember it.
My main concern is that I don't want to be making it worse or causing damage to other components that aren't bad yet.
It is felt through the floorboard and seat, not through the steering wheel.
There is nothing I've been able to do to make it better or worse: turns, braking, accelerating.
When it first started getting noticeable, I found that I had a right rear tire that leaked and got down to pretty low pressure. It seemed to improve when I filled the tire, hence the bent rim theory and the subsequent tire and wheel changes. Tires were ready for replacement anyway; the OEM's at 60K.
Very smart to analyze it now. You certainly are correct in thinking that a suspension problem can cause damage to other parts if not treated. Everything is finely balanced, and you don't want one part picking up the tension/force that another part failed to contain.
Have you checked the struts? Aren't those things fluid filled, which could affect performance at different temperatures?
Couldn't find a leak in the struts, for whatever that's worth.
My '93 Corolla (different manufacturer than Civic, I know) has something similar going on. Changing the tires helped a bit. When I've worked on other Corollas with the same engine & front end configuration, I've felt on the axles and CV joints, etc. The only thing I've noticed that's different on mine is that I have a fair amount of up & down play where the right axle enters the transmission. All I can really do is keep an eye on it, and hope that it doesn't do anything to the transmission. It's been going on for over a year, and nothing much seems to have gone wrong. Sometimes I wonder if changing the axles would do any good, but I just don't know whether the cost is worth it!
I don't know how much of my car's symptoms are in my imagination. It is a short-wheelbase car with a fairly stiff, noisy ride; I mean compared to some. I'm sure that often what I'm feeling is just the corduroy effect of the pavement.
The engine's slightly rough too, I assume because it's ready for the 60K service and the valves and maybe ignition timing and things are a bit out. Maybe there's a weak spark plug wire.
It'd be funny if this turned out to be an engine thing after all. It sure doesn't feel like it, but I'm not sure that I can trust my perceptions anymore since that pretty credible mechanic and his boss drove it and said "What vibration?".
On another subject, what's your feeling about adding minor handling and breathing equipment to a car like this? Not a rice-boy treatment, though maybe 1" lower springs. Would it upset the whole balance, such as it is?
I'm not trying to get a Lotus out of it, but maybe the rough equivalent of a new Si.
I'm sure there's someone here who can tell us about suspension stuff, though. Let's start a topic!! That topic is now Topic 70, Suspension Stuff