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Dodge Ram Idle and Stalling Problems

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Comments

  • huskers2525huskers2525 Member Posts: 1
    I had this same exact issue with my 2002 Ram. The fix was a new Crank Position Sensor.
  • dodgeram8dodgeram8 Member Posts: 2
    edited March 2013
    Same thing happened to me with my 2008 Ram 1500 at 35,000 miles. It just died -- no power steering -- nothing. It would crank but not start after it died. Check gauges light flashed. After 15 minutes it finally started with the engine icon lit up and staying lit. The battery was fine since I had lights. Dealer did a diagnostic check and the only thing that showed up was the EGR valve. They replaced it. Am still not trusting that it won't die again, but for now (4 days later) it seems to running okay. Am very glad I wasn't on a busy freeway when it happened! Very scary!
  • kmirickkmirick Member Posts: 1
    did you figure out what the problem was? I have an 02 dodge ram 1500, 4.7 liter v8. It is having the surging problem when at an idol, sometimes dropping down below 500 rpms, and it makes it sound like the engine wants to die. Also, at highway speeds, there is a small surge as well sometimes when going between 60-70. you can email me back at kempermirick@gmail.com I appreciate it.
  • dodgeram8dodgeram8 Member Posts: 2
    It has been fine since they replaced the EGR Valve--keeping fingers crossed though.
    Good Luck.
  • manologwapomanologwapo Member Posts: 1
    Thank you
  • ericschwenkeericschwenke Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 dodge 3500 that just died going down the road and will not restart will not hit a lick
    checked fuel on bleeder on back of filter has fuel the lift pump is working. has fuel to bleeder on injection pump. but will not hit a lick.
    Does any one know what the problem mite be?
  • mchamp1mchamp1 Member Posts: 1
    My dads 1997 3500 5.9 diesel did the same thing. Finally found there is a sensor in the gas tank that reads when fuel level is low and shuts truck off to prevent damage etc. The sensor isn't needed so after he removed it it no longer has those problems.
  • tboyd187tboyd187 Member Posts: 1
    My dodge iddles rough and has a code that says running lean on some cylinders. Another problem is my filter never gets dirty. I checked all connections and they are properly tightened. I have a new cold air intake coming in the mail. I hope by putting on the new cold air intake and a good cleaning of the throttle body and a new IAT sensor will fix my problem. Another thing sometimes when I'm pushing the gas into the passing gear it will bogg down and act like I'm down shifting two gears or something. When I turn it off and back on it doesn't do it anymore. Does these trucks have a track record of bad EGR valves
  • here62here62 Member Posts: 1
    were you able.to.solve.the.problem?im.in the.same.boat
  • fredlee1939fredlee1939 Member Posts: 1

    Re dodge ram 1500 most times that put gas in it stalled with in a few yards to a few miles. I left it with a mechanic for several weeks. He fixed the problem. It was the roll over valve that's cast into the gas tank. Dodge has redesigned this item twice and the whole tank has to be changed to replace it. The problem is that the valve gets stuck and either allows gas to flood the engine,causing a stall or not allow gas to enter the tank. In my case, the tank and valve was replaced at a cost of close to $1,000.

  • amalletamallet Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003dodge ram 1500 and one week ago, my radiator bust and all the coolant go in the hood of my truck. The same day, I have a code saying misfire on coil #2.. Go to garage change all my coils (because one wasnt enough) and all my plugs. The truck run great for one little drive and now the motor stop completly for a couple of seconds and start to run again suddenly. Same think if you shut down a switch. Dont have any codes on computer.. I dont know what to do anymore....
  • bigdaddt48bigdaddt48 Member Posts: 2
    I HAVE A 1995 DODGE RAM, ON THE FREEWAY RAMP, IT JUST DIED, PULLED OVER ON SHOULDER WAITED FIVE MINUTES , THEN IT STARTED BUT WOULD NOT GO OVER TWENTY THEN IT DIED AGAIN,, I STARTED IT ONE MORE TIME, IT DID THE SAME THING AND DIED, DO YOU KNOW WHAT THE PROBLEM MIGHT BE,, THANKS
  • bigdaddt48bigdaddt48 Member Posts: 2
    PLEASE CALL GARY AT 952-452-4771,, ON MY 1995 DODGE RAM STALLING,, WAITED FIVE MINUTES , THEN STARTED IT,, WOULD NOT GO OVER TWENTY, THEN STARTED TO DIE AGAIN,, REPEATED THIS ONCE THEN LEFT IT ALONE,, PLEASE CALL AND HELP,, THANKS
  • bandabiscuitbandabiscuit Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys, I have a 1995 Dakota Sport with the 2.5 and 5 speed manual. Recently it has just started dying on me without warning or cause. I was driving about 35mph and all of a sudden, the truck died and there was nothing there. I pulled over and messed with the wiring harness under the fuse box, drivers side, and got it to fire again, Drove it home and it won't fire again. I've read about the PCM and the IAC going bad or dirty. It has a new PCM and I haven't got to switch out the IAC yet.. My question is, would the IAC cause the truck to die going down the road? Or am I looking at a whole different issue? I have been told that the 2.5 does NOT have a crank positioning sensor, so I'm at a loss.. Any information would be great, thanks.
  • ok5bearsok5bears Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2009 Dodge Ram ,we have had several incidents of stalling. There is no indication of a problem it just stalls, have had it checked out multiple times. Our dealer finds no problem. On Monday driving took a right hand turn, truck stalled in the process of turning, lost steering at an intersection. Scared the daylights out of me. Truck started right back up, no check engine lights nothing! Is anyone else experiencing this problem??
  • texas9194texas9194 Member Posts: 1
    I have a a 98 dodge ram 1500.Im having a problem with it sometimes it ideas rough and sucks in alot of air you can hear  it. Give it gas is clears up and sometimes it wont stay running start. And sometimes im driving it pops like a back fire

    My check engine lights goes off and on when auto zone scanned it its the o2 seniors i just replaced both and the cat

    Anyone help me out or any ideas  
  • blackhawk630blackhawk630 Member Posts: 1
    1997 Dodge Ram, 4x4, 5.2L. Vehicle runs fine in park. Shift to reverse or drive on idle and engine hesitates and shutdown. Replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor and ignition coil. the problem continued. I thought that it was electrical so I changed the battery and wiring. The problem continued. At last I checked the emission system. Check the evaporator canister and vacuum lines. Found the evaporator canister pellets fused inside all of the vacuum lines that came from the engine to the purged valve and from the purge valve to the evaporator canister. I used 100 psi of air after I disconnected all of the lines. Cleaned all of the vacuum lines and the purged valve and changed the evaporator canister. Problem solved. I know there are people experiencing the same problem. Hopefully this will help.
  • diggerman52diggerman52 Member Posts: 1
    sounds to me like you drive it till it dies then take it in! Thanks
  • AkStagAkStag Member Posts: 2
    Howdy, Currently my 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 with somewhere in the low 200k is giving me a rather puzzling mystery. Having sat all winter, and only moved once or twice this summer, She has developed a issues with idle. The engine turnes over and as long as you maintain pressure on the gas it runs, but Since it is an Automatic, the moment you removed your foot off the gas to apply the break to Place it into drive or Reverse, the Engine cuts off. This has me puzzled.

    ball park, thinking Fuel management.

    Any insight would be greatly appreciated, look forward to your suggestions.

    I apologize if this same issues was posted once before, Or if this was the wrong thread, Google sent me here :3
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Posting here is fine. No idea on a solution. Assuming you are in Eielson or EAF (or whatever it's called now -JBAR?), isn't there a cheap/free shop on base you can nurse it to? (If you are in Clear, then nevermind, lol).

    Welcome to the forums, I'll see if we can get @Mr_Shiftright or @thecardoc3 in here to give you some hints.
  • AkStagAkStag Member Posts: 2
    Retired AF, ran to the local O'reily to pick up a Chilton manual. Running through "Their" trouble shooting list. I recently replaced the Air Filter, and may have unseated the intake manifold. That's just 1 option on their check list.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,747
    All of the testing starts with a scan tool with first check to see if the system is generating any trouble codes. The next thing to check is in the data stream. I'd need to see what the fuel trim is doing (adding or subtracting fuel) and what is the idle air control valve being commanded to do.

    For example, if the fuel trims are adding fuel at idle and are very high (20% or more) but are normal (less than 5%) when driving then a vacuum leak becomes likely. Get some data and that will give us a direction.
  • 1987struggles1987struggles Member Posts: 1
    Wassup guys and gals i have a 1987 dodge d100 and my fuel pump keeps going out and idk why i was told it was the fuel lines and fuel tank but idk it will crank but not start also when it doea work it idles erratically and it wont start on the first time like im not getting fuel or something it starts after like third crank
  • BenThere12BenThere12 Member Posts: 1
    ECM problem, low idle/stalls, random over temp spikes, engine will not start without pushing accelerator. FIXED
    2002 350 Ram Van 5.9 gas. Tried to fix over temp, new radiator, fan clutch, hoses, thermostat, belt, no change. Six ECM error codes, four with low voltage and two the pressure sensors on trans. Cleared the codes my disconnecting positive on battery and hold brake pedal for fifteen seconds. Codes came back. I check the voltage on the battery and checked good 14v +- .2v. Two mechanics said ECM bad, dealer said ECM bad. Bought same ECM on ebay and tried to have dealer install it, and the bought ECM had security (alarm, etc) in ECM mined did not and almost disable the van with old ECM, they got to run and I returned the bought ECM. Next purchase a new ebay ECM with my VIN and mileage with two week return. I learned on the forums and on the first step of the new ECM install instruction to replace battery if more than 3 years old, van start normal, I took a chance put in a new battery ($100+) reset ECM and took it to auto zone to check for codes, NO CODES. Also temp is now in low normal range and has not spiked to overtemp. I am returning the uninstall new ECM ($385). Van runs great as it was four months ago. Warning do not drive too long with holding brake and gas at same time to keep engine running, this may ruin the Trans.
  • heim_soundheim_sound Member Posts: 2
    Its really quite easy to replace. Keep in mind something if you are having puzzling stalling problems, the cam and crank sensors are also likely culprits, not just but also including the egr valve. For under a $100 you can change all 3 items and it very likely will resolve your issue. The sensors can even spec out at a dealer as good, where if they have some age they really are not, the egr sticking only amplifies the rough idle or stalling, which can occur even while driving on the highway, intersections, etc as soon as you let off the gas. Its a strong recommendation for anyone experiencing puzzling HEMI stalling across multiple years, I know from personal experience that all 3 were the only real fix. Hope this helps.
  • FixItPro3FixItPro3 Member Posts: 1
    Guys, save yourself a lot of time and check the IAC valve first....problem solved....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Could be that, could also be a dirty throttle body, especially on a high mileage car. Be careful what you use to clean a throttle body.
  • Dodgeramgirl20Dodgeramgirl20 Member Posts: 1
    4wheel5 said:
    About 6 months ago I was driving along and my Dodge Ram 5.7 started to sputter as if it were running out of gas. It did this for a block or so then stalled. At a quarter tank of gas, this couldn't be the issue. I tried to start it and it only turned over. After it sat for about ten minutes it fired right up and ran fine and I dismissed it as a one time quirk......until last night! On the freeway it sputtered for a second and then stalled. No luck this time when waiting ten minutes. It just turns over and once in a while it shows signs of life like it wants to start, but wont on 3/4 tank of gas. All these posts show so many possibilities to the problem. Where should I start?
    Mines a 95 with. 5.9 and has same exact problem. Do u remember perhaps what u did to fix it. Ive been without my truck for a week now and need HELP BADLY 
  • Bob_O27Bob_O27 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 1500 hemi that was displaying most of these symptoms. I changed the cam and crank sensors but the problem returned. I reviewed a video on U-tube about the MAP sensor and thought I would investigate it.
    While attempting to remove it the unit came apart in my hand. No I didn't break it but I did look at it very closely It appeared that the unit was not glued or the glue didn't adhere very well. I mixed up some epoxy and put it back together. While squeezing the unit It developed a bubble in on of the corners. Squeezing and releasing the port for the sensor caused the bubble. so I applied more to the corner to fill the gap. I let it set up and reinstalled the unit. The next day, after performing another repair, I restarted the truck. Everything ran well and it sounded like it was happy. I let it warm up and took it for a ride. It had been stalling within the first quarter mile of travel. I made it past that point and the took it for a shake down run. No stalling occurred.
    My only conclusion, at this point, was that the poor seal and or the leak in the corner was not allowing the unit to respond to the atmospheric pressure changes in the manifold. Thus it was cutting off the fuel and caused it to stall.
    I hope this information will help someone else. Keep looking! I have been perusing this problem for 6 Months. Good Luck
  • Bob_O27Bob_O27 Member Posts: 2
    Bob_O27 said:

    I have a 2005 1500 hemi that was displaying most of these symptoms. I changed the cam and crank sensors but the problem returned. I reviewed a video on U-tube about the MAP sensor and thought I would investigate it.
    While attempting to remove it the unit came apart in my hand. No I didn't break it but I did look at it very closely It appeared that the unit was not glued or the glue didn't adhere very well. I mixed up some epoxy and put it back together. While squeezing the unit It developed a bubble in on of the corners. Squeezing and releasing the port for the sensor caused the bubble. so I applied more to the corner to fill the gap. I let it set up and reinstalled the unit. The next day, after performing another repair, I restarted the truck. Everything ran well and it sounded like it was happy. I let it warm up and took it for a ride. It had been stalling within the first quarter mile of travel. I made it past that point and the took it for a shake down run. No stalling occurred.
    My only conclusion, at this point, was that the poor seal and or the leak in the corner was not allowing the unit to respond to the atmospheric pressure changes in the manifold. Thus it was cutting off the fuel and caused it to stall.
    I hope this information will help someone else. Keep looking! I have been perusing this problem for 6 Months. Good Luck

    Additional Information that I did not include.
    I cleaned the ground connections and changed the start relay and the power distribution / fuse block unit. The ECM and The PCM. Thank God for the Pick your own part places. they saved me hundreds. Each time I did a Change I would put the original computer part back in. I hate to hunt and pick. So as you tell I have a few spare parts extra.
    I bought my own code reader, got tired of waiting 15 minutes to reset the Check engine light. I also looked at fuel pump wiring and possibly changing fuel pump.
    NOTE: its a lot harder than they say to change the pump unless you have special tools.ie. lift, extra floor jack, extensions for the ratchets, wood blocks to support the units or the Bed. It is not a job to take on by yourself. I viewed three ways to do it and found that the easiest way to attempt it would be to lift the bed. There is a few videos on U-Tube.
    Utilize your resources. U-Tube is good, but you have to pick and choose who to watch There are a lot of chat rooms and help blogs. Watch those too. They want your money and then make suggestions that you may have already have done.
    Do your home work, Get detailed symptoms and then go about fixing the problem. Most of all Check your fluids! Gas, Transmission, and Oil fluids a low one can ruin your day.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited March 2019
    Yes, vacuum leaks will throw the MAF code as well. Many stalling issues are related to vacuum leaks, and on some cars, even to a tear in the air plenum from the air filter.

    Thanks for posting your info. Hope it helps someone else!
  • anthonycota6290anthonycota6290 Member Posts: 1
    jjwalke1 said:
    i am having a problem with my 95 dodge ram stalling when i backup and start forward and let off the gas. It is also missing in overdrive at approx. 1200 rpms. I have replaced the fuel pump, indexed the timing, new plugs, wires, and distributer cap, new map sensor, new O2 sensor, new throttle body position sensor, and cleaned all fuel injectors. I thought the exhaust might be backing up and disconnected it and drove it around. I also have sprayed ether looking for a vacuum leak. I am at wits end as is my dad(mechanic) and 2 other shops. Its been hooked up to computers and wont even throw up a code. Any ideas out there as to what is wrong. Could it be a computer problem or maybe the transmission.
    jjwalke1 said:
    i am having a problem with my 95 dodge ram stalling when i backup and start forward and let off the gas. It is also missing in overdrive at approx. 1200 rpms. I have replaced the fuel pump, indexed the timing, new plugs, wires, and distributer cap, new map sensor, new O2 sensor, new throttle body position sensor, and cleaned all fuel injectors. I thought the exhaust might be backing up and disconnected it and drove it around. I also have sprayed ether looking for a vacuum leak. I am at wits end as is my dad(mechanic) and 2 other shops. Its been hooked up to computers and wont even throw up a code. Any ideas out there as to what is wrong. Could it be a computer problem or maybe the transmission.
    Try crank shaft position sensor or ignition coil
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