Transmission Traumas?

bearmer · April 2001

Can anybody tell me about the Saturn automatic transaxle? Is it one of the Hydramatics like 3T40 or 4T60? If not, what is it? Is it durable? I don't own one, just curious.

alcan · April 2001

Most automatic transmissions/transaxles use planetary (epicyclic) gear trains. Saturn uses a parallel shaft transaxle similar to a manual unit, but with hydraulic shift control. It shares no design features with the GM Hydramatic family of transmissions. Honda and Acura also use parallel shaft automatics.

bearmer · April 2001

These are just a couple of questions about what tranxles are used.

Can somebody tell me in what model year the 4T65 replaced the 4T60 in the Chev Lumina with the 3.1L engine? I'm thinking of buying a used one and I don't want a 4T60.

Does the 2001 Aurora with the 4.0L V-8 use the 4T65? If so, I wonder if they're close to the torque limit for the transmission. Is the 4T80 used in anything except Cadillac?

Finally, has anybody seen a resource on the net for info like this? gmpowertrain.com is all I've seen.

sermolin · May 2001

I just has the clutch replaced on Infinity G20'92. The car has 109k on it. Soon after I picked up the car from the shop, I noticed the noise coming from transmission (presumably) when I rev up the engine above 3000 RPM in 1st gear disengage the clatch and shift into 2nd. Noise appears when I shift into 2nd and lasts about one second. It resembles gears grinding at high speed. Yesterday, I noticed the same noise (but less pronounced) when shifting from 2nd into 3rd. The mechanic who did the clutch change said that he does not know what this is. He said that he did change the transmission oil when he changed the clutch. Any ideas?

Mr_Shiftright · May 2001

WEll, since he didnt touch the transmission internally there's not much he could have done to it...this leaves something in the clutch, maybe the throwout beaiing or the pilot bushing. It would be a good idea to check the transmission fluid level though. If that's okay, you just might have to wait until the noise worsens to diagnose it. Only real way to know is to take the trans out and carefully examine all the clutch parts.

arcxer · May 2001

I recently went to Nissan dealer to by a AT transmission filter for our Maxima 96. And they said that it's not necessary to change a filter on those Maximas. They said it's some special type of filter ("screen type" or something like that), and it's not necessary to change them, and they're only flushing thouse transmissions on Maximas, and never drop the trans. pan for maintainance, only for repairs.

Does it really make sence? Anybody heard something like that about Maximas or any other cars?

windowphobe6 · May 2001

With Ford's CD4E, for instance, you literally can't "drop the pan", except in the purely-gravitational sense; it's sideways over the valve bodies, and the filter isn't accessible even if you do pull it off. Flushing is the only way with these transmissions. I know little about this particular Nissan box, though I seem to recall that the pan location was changed when they redesigned it for FWD, so it strikes me as at least possible the dealership is giving you the straight scoop - though amortizing the cost of that flush machine may have crossed their minds at some point.

brucer2 · May 2001

Starting with the 1995 Maximas the transmission pan is located at the bottom of the transmission. On the first fluid change it is a good idea to drop the pan to get all the debris and crud out of the pan. The filter is just a wire mesh one. By droping the pan it can be cleaned with a spray solvent (I would just change it to be safe). After the first change, I would just do a drain plug drain and refill every year, or a full fluid exchange every 2 years. Much cheaper in the long run than having to replace the transmission. Very highly recommended if you're going to keep the car to >100k miles.

tannsi · May 2001

Ive had transmission problems with my 2000 Subaru Outback. The A/T oil light started to come on and flash at 8k. I took the car in and they said nothing was wrong. The problem persisted. The light comes on occasionally, sometimes the car stalls for 1-2 sec but other times there are no obvious reasons for the light coming on. Always when I turn the car of and start the engine again light stops flashing. The car has been in for service 5 times for this problem but they have not been able to locate the problem. They have changed the ECM and TCM. In addition the check engine light has come on several times but they have not been able to pinpoint any reason for that. Now they want me to bring the car in for the sixth time and get some new guy to check it out.

I have been wondering if I should press the company for a replacement car since they cannot find a cause for problem. According to the lemon law this car should qualify being in for service 5 times for a total of 23 days. Since I have put another 20k miles on the car since the problem started they might offer me only a 71% of the original value for a trade-in. I saw somewhere that you should be able to use the mileage that was put on the car before the problem started. Then I would get 92% of the original value.
Any comments?

Thanks
Siggi

Mr_Shiftright · May 2001

Lemon laws tend to be a bit more complicated than that, and besides, why go through all that hassle (and you WILL go through a lot of hassle, probably even mediation first). If you like the car, give the dealer a chance to fix it. Modern cars are very complex. If he is sincerely bringing in a factory tech to look at it, then you should go along with that. No sense getting into a negative head space with your nearly new car over an electrical glitch.

Give the situation some more slack and then re-evaluate it after the next fix. Also, get a copy of your state's lemon law to see if you even qualify. If you bring up the Lemon Law issue with the dealer too often, he may just give up on you and let you hassle it out.

adc100 · June 2001

My nemesis '92 Corsica which is now gold plated.... I stopped on a shopping trip and when I started it back up it sounded noisier and had no power. It ran on the verge of stalling in gear. I started smelling fumes and by the time I got home smoke was coming up through the console. I'm physically and mentally to tired to deal with it right now. I doubt it's multiple failures, but can the cat converter go that fast and are these the symptoms???? No overheating and trans and engine oil look good.

GRRRROOOOAAAANNNN I'm mixing a strong drink.
Thanks,
Al-owner of a money sucking machine.

alcan · June 2001

Al, it's easy as winking to check for a plugged exhaust. Find a manifold vacuum source, plug a vacuum gauge in, and check vacuum at hot idle in Park (typically 17"-19" Hg). Accelerate the engine to about 2,500 RPM for 15 seconds. Vacuum must stay at least as high as at idle (usually increases 2"-3" Hg). Even a 1" HG drop indicates a restricted exhaust system. Sometimes the catalyst bed breaks up and plugs either the converter or the muffler.

adc100 · June 2001

if you ever get into Pa. Let me know. I'll put you up.

reznor740 · June 2001

I just purchased a 1987 volvo 740 GLE with the ZF 22HP Auto trans. When I test drove it the man said that if i changed fluid and filter and toppped it off it would stop shifting hard. Is he correct?

poisondartfrog · June 2001

Not familiar with Volvos, but on my '97 Olds Bravada with the 4L-60E tranny (electronic), I had a hard upshift develop on 1>2, 2>3, and 3>4, which turned out to be a bad valve in the valve body. It was replaced and eliminated the problem.

bigmojoman2 · June 2001

Hello guys. I have a 94 Honda Civic which has seemed to growl a bit louder when shifting gears and applying gas. I was wondering if this means that the death of my transmission is near. I hear that replacing the transmission can be very costly..Can it be that the transmission just maybe needs serviced??

Like I am describing, it is just growling a bit louder than normal. Approx how much time do I have to try to save some good money and get this problem taken care of before this thing craps out on me??

Thanks in advance for any responses!!!

rayfbaird · June 2001

It may be just some wearing out. After burning out a couple of transmissions I change the fluid filters and seals every 30,000 miles. It has quieted down noisy transmissions. It's cheap. I would also consider adding lubegard www.lubegard.com (This stuff really works on transmissions, see recommendation by saab on the site) You might also consider a synthetic as a replacement.

I don't think a full transmission flush would be necessary based on what you described.

mauryr · June 2001

We have an 89 Safari with 215,000 that is running strong except for a curious problem that no one seems able to diagnose. When the van shifts from one gear to the next it has a very noticeable hesitation. It never does this for the first few minutes after it has been started. I've replaced fuel filters, fuel pump, had transmission checked and run a couple of cans of fuel injector cleaner through it. Anyone have any ideas? We're confused!

sailorbeavis · June 2001

Recently took the old Topaz in to have the transmission serviced (100,000 mile tune-up, and the pan gasket was leaking, badly). My mechanic replaced the pan gasket and the filter, flushed the system and filled up the fluid - "everything short of a total overhaul" (his words, not mine).

The problem is that now the transmission is shifting very roughly from first to second gear, something it hasn't done in all of the ten years we've had the vehicle. Nothing sounds or seems amiss until a noticeable jerk (no real noise, just about a second-long halt) when it upshifts from first to second, and sometimes from second to third. There is no corresponding problem on the downshift, however. Having been taught on a V-6 engine, I sometimes accelerate more forcefully than I should, but the transmission has always shifted rather smoothly from gear to gear, even with my hard-driving attitude (hey, you try driving a 3,000 lb car with an 86-horsepower engine... even Geo Metros leave me in the dust!)

I know very little about automatic transaxles, but I would think that a clean transmission should shift much better than one with old fuel and a worn filter. Any clues before I go back to the mechanic?

joe3891 · June 2001

The problem with your Topaz was the flush,I read of problems quite often on the forums after flushes.

Mr_Shiftright · June 2001

I can't recall if this transmission has a vacuum modulator...if it does, a loose vacuum line could cause rough upshifts.

jxs81 · July 2001

I bought a new 2001 elantra 5sp less than 2 weeks ago. A few days later, I began to realize that sometimes between shifting gears, the gear shaft will kind of stuck, but I can manage to shift gear after a little effort. Is this a problem or normal because the car is still in "break-in" stage? It's my first new car and first manual car. I am concerned about this. Can anybody give me some advice? I'll really appreciate it.

Jeff

wildwatty · July 2001

I have a 1998 Ford Contour and I need to know where the trans filter goes. If it don't have one then how do I change the fluid.
The contour has a 4 cylinder in it,with automatic and push button over drive. Please let me know.

joe3891 · July 2001

Change the transmission fluid & filter.

eastdevil2g · July 2001

Well i have this Probe and it's automatic (sucks) but anyways, when i start moving the car, it kinda jumps when i start accelerating it on 1st gear, then when it gets to 2nd years it gets up to 4rpm and stays there, and it seems like the car is havin trouble to get out from it, then it goes to 3rd after doing push and after it, it switches to 4rd normally, it just having trouble gettin on 1st and gettin out of 2nd. Do you know what the trouble might be?? might it need transmission fluid?

mrdetailer · July 2001

Lubegard can be purchased for under $10.00 at NAPA autoparts. It adds vegetable based liquid wax esters that dissapate heat and make the transmission drive very smoothly. It is recommended by auto manufacturers. See wwww.lubegard.com

I did it to my tranny that drove rough after a fender bender, and it smoothed it right out. I've used for 5 years, and it only gets smoother, and shifts easier. This is my second application and it works great.

windowphobe6 · July 2001

Forget it. The Ford CD4E (also in some Probes, though not the GT) can't be given the standard drop-the-pan treatment; the pan, such as it is, is mounted vertically, and access to the filter requires serious disassembly. Take it somewhere and have it machine-flushed.

windowphobe6 · July 2001

This is the 4EAT-G, right? I had one of those in a 626 (it's a Mazda-built unit), and if I recall correctly, this tranny is sensitive to slight changes in fluid level. If the dipstick test passes muster, get your basic tranny service and see if it perks up.

sunshine60105 · July 2001

Does the 4 cylinder Honda have any transmission problems or engine problems and so forth?

Thanks!

seguy · July 2001

just bought a 94 ranger w/ manual trans for $2500. it's in good shape in/out, except when downshifting from 4-3. there is a grinding of the gears type of noise. it upshifts fine from 1-5, but when slowing down in traffic, but not to a complete stop, selecting 3rd gear sounds like it's grinding. downshifting 5-4, 3-2, 2-1 etc is no problem, only from 5-3 or 4-3. it has a recently rebuilt tranny, so was wondering if this is a tranny problem or more of a clutch/syncro problem any ideas? it drives excellent other than that, it's just i have to select 2nd when slowing down, since i feel uneasy hearing that grinding noise... thanks for the feedback

mrdetailer · July 2001

My Subaru did exactly that at 90,000 miles. It was not when it was new. I had a manual tranny overhaul years ago, and it was literally as good as new. If it's still under warranty, take it back and let them examine it. It shouldn't be happening on a recent overhaul.

I have been able to minimize the issue by draining out the Tranny fluid, and replacing it with 2 things. Lubegard for manual transmissions (found at NAPA) and synthetic manual transmission fluid. Lubegard is specially formulated to reduce mesh shock and gear grinding. The symptoms are not gone, but greatly reduced. I don't intend to get an overhaul anytime soon.

When downshifting, rev the engine, or double clutch. It will slide in easier.

jlmilk · July 2001

My 97 suburban should have been yellow... it is a LEMON!!! The first transmission went out at 34,000 and was replaced by dealer with new 36,000 mile warranty. Another 38,000 miles later the "new" one went out. Through annoying phone calls daily to CM, they paid for half ($800).

A couple of months ago, felt it slipping again. Took it to local dealership who "couldn't find anything wrong" (Most likely honey-lube!).

My newest problem may have nothing at all to do with transmission but who knows. The gear sifter will not move out of park after being parked in the sun in hot weather for up to 10 minutes!!! No problem during cool weather or after being parked in garage.

I've had the problem diagnosed as the solenoid/actuator; however, after this was replaced there is no change in the problem.

Ever heard of anything like this? No one in my small town has and in talking to the dealership they deny this could have anything to do with the transmission. By the way, it is an automatic.

seguy · July 2001

FOR THAT ADVICE. MY RANGER IS ALSO AT 90K MILES. PRETTY STRANGE. WELL, THE REBUILT TRANNY WAS PUT IN LAST YEAR I BELIEVE, BUT IN RIVERSIDE, CA, BUT RESIDES IN COLORADO NOW. THE LADY I BOUGHT IT FROM SAID HER DAD DROVE IT FROM OVER THERE AFTER THE INSTALL. DON'T KNOW IF THE WARRANTY WOULD STILL BE VALID ANYWAYS.

WELL TOMORROW I'M GOING TO A REPUTABLE/KNOWLEDGEABLE TRANNY SHOP IN TOWN TO HAVE THEM TEST DRIVE AND TROUBLE SHOOT IT.

I WAS DRIVING AROUND TODAY TO EXPERIMENT WITH THE GEARS AND FOUND THAT MY IDEA DID WORK AFTER ALL. INSTEAD OF DOWNSHIFTING DIRECTLY FROM 5-3 OR 4-3, I DEPRESS THE CLUTCH, MOVE THE SHIFTER FROM 4-2-3, THEN RELEASE THE CLUTCH. ALSO WORKS FROM 5-2-3. ALOT BETTER THAN HEARING THAT 3RD GEAR GRIND WHICH CAN'T BE GOOD FOR IT. I WONDER HOW LONG SHE'S BEEN DRIVING IT LIKE THAT??? SHE DIDN'T SEEM TO BE VERY OBSERVANT WITH THOSE KINDS OF DETAILS, BUT AT LEAST SHE FOLLOWED THE OIL CHANGE SCHEDULE EVERY 3K. ANYHOW, 3RD DOESN'T SEEM TO SLIP AT ALL, JUST STRANGE HOW THE DIRECT 4-3, OR 5-3 SHIFT MAKES IT GRIND. I CAN LIVE WITH MY SLIGHTLY LONGER SHIFTER TRAVEL FROM 4-2-3 FOR A LONG TIME, IF IT'S GOING TO COST ME ALOT TO FIX IT, SINCE EVERYTHING ELSE SEEMS FINE.

mrdetailer · July 2001

You're welcome. Let us know what they say. I wonder if it's a synchromesh issue. Lubegard on 2 of my tranny's has really helped them. Smoother and quieter. Synthetic fluid holds up to heat without breaking down. I've found that it's much cheaper to keep a car to 200,000 miles, so I baby them a lot.

seguy · July 2001

took it to a reputable tranny shop in town and confirmed what i had suspected. he said 3rd gear syncro is bad. est. $1200 to replace all bearing, rings, etc. since he said the people who had rebuilt it this last march did a crappy job cutting corners with cheaper parts. he said he'd just drive it like it is, since it's not a big problem. told him about my 4-2-3 shift and said that's fine. i just wanted to make sure it wouldn't lead to a larger/costlier breakdown in the future. but he assured me the bad sychro-mesh wouldn't cause anything like that.

Mr_Shiftright · July 2001

I've been driving on a bad 2nd gear synchro in my Alfa for over three years. You need to learn to double clutch and it'll probably be smooth as silk.

seguy · July 2001

is that like pumping the clutch during the shift or what?? thanks

Mr_Shiftright · July 2001

It's a way of "timing" the gears better.

Let's say you've been grinding on a 3 to 2 downshift (like my Alfa does).

So instead of shifting into 2 from 3, you shift into neutral, lift up on the clutch pedal and race the engine at the same time, THEN depress the clutch again and shift into 2....bingo, nice and smooth, no noise. It sounds clunky and awkward, but it quickly becomes second nature. I don't even think about it anymore.

This is also done in racing not because of synchro problems but to avoid what is called "compression braking"....it helps to get engine speed up to wheel speed on high speed downshifts.

brusch · July 2001

THIS IS A 1990 NISSAN 2.4CYL. AUTOMATIC. IT WONT' SHIFT INTO 3RD. GEAR UNTIL I REACH 35MPH OR UNTIL I DRIVE FOR 10-12 MILES AND THEN IT WILL SHIFT AT 28MPH. GENERALLY IT IS FINE UNLESS IT SITS FOR 4-5 HOURS AND THEN IT WILL DO THE SAME. It've HAD THE TYRANNY DRAINED AND FILLED. IT Doesn't SHIFT HARD OR SLIP AND RUNS GREAT,BUT IT JUST Doesn't SEEM LIKE A NORMAL THING TO ME. IT HAS 94000 MILES ON IT BUT HAS BEEN WELL MAINTAINED. It've SEEN MY GAS MILEAGE DECLINE TO ABOUT 14MPG AND WONDER IF THIS TYRANNY PROBLEM MAY HAVE SOMETHING TO DO WITH IT. THIS IS A 2ND CAR AND I DON' WANT TO SINK ALOT OF MONEY INTO IT.

myskylarkispar · July 2001

My 94 front wheel drive transmission has 2.4 engine custom sedan. It has 92,000 miles on it.
I noticed a couple months ago when I started the car in the morning it began to make a very loud thumping or clunking noise as if something was stuck in the fan motor. When the car was put into a gear the noise stopped. Then a couple of weeks later it began having trouble when I would come to a stop or turn it acted as if the anti-lock brake system was malfunctioning. After having 3 different quotes for a rebuilt transmission I am left wondering if I pay the 1,300 to 1,800 dollars to have the transmission replaced would the motor then go out? Is there anything you could suggest me checking before replacing?

joe3891 · July 2001

I would have the dealer or a good independent shop make a diagosis of the problems you are having, and then you know what needs to be repaired,then you can make a decision on what to do.It would be cheaper in the long run.

chikoo · July 2001

car:'99 MAzda protege ES

I would be making a tranny fluid change next month.
I was thinking of putting Lubegard with friction modifiers as an additive in my new 100% synthetic tranny oil.
any ideas on how it would work out?

rayfbaird · July 2001

I've used in in two transmissions now. My 5 speed was having trouble shifting to second and from fifth down to fourth. It shifts much smoother. I don't get that rough bumping and gearshock unless I really jam it. I think if I had used Lubegard since I bought the car, I would not have had transmission damage.

My automatic shifts smoother than it ever has. The second bottle added after the usual 30,000 mile service made it even quieter.

I will not be without Lubegard in the Transmission in the foreseeable future.

Highly recommened, and it's cheap compared to other brands that are fraudulent. I also put it in the power steering with good results. All for under $10.00 a bottle at NAPA.

auxesis · August 2001

My 1997 sub. has 66,000 mi on it and the trans, All of a sudden has no forward or rev. Fliud. is up and does not smell burnt. There was no warning of any problems before this happened..
Thank you, AUXESIS

bearmer · August 2001

I recently bought a 1999 Lumina LTZ with a 4T65E transaxle. I hadn't driven anything newer than the mid '80s so I guess I'm easy to please. It always seems to be in the right gear. The shifts are a bit mushy for me. Can anybody comment on it's durability? I've had several cars with the 125C and I haven't been able to wear one out yet so I wonder if the smoothness of the 4T65E comes with a price. Also, when I keep an eye on the tachometer as the torque converter clutch is engaging, it seems that the drop in engine RPM is gradual. Is that possible?

andreak1 · August 2001

Hi all. I was wondering if anyone can help me???
I purchased a used 1995 Dodge Stealth about a year ago from a dealership. Since then I have only put about 12,000 miles on the car. The mileage is only at 47,666. The other day I could not get the car to go into reverse ( its an automatic) and was told the transmission was shot. When I contacted the Dodge dealership I was told they could give me a new transmission but the warranty was only for 12 months or 12,000 miles. That doesn't seem quite right to me. Seems to me if Dodge was confident in their transmissions, they would guarantee it longer than that. Any suggestions? Can anyone help??

q45man · August 2001

All manufacturers limit replacement parts to 12/12k except GM under certain conditions. Rebuilt trans may be brand new, partial rebuilt, totally rebuilt old case, depends upon whats in stock. Chrysler has some of the weakest worst transmission in the industry according to rebuilders many fail around 36k.

http://www.thecomplaintstation.com/c/chrysler_toc.htm

mrdetailer · August 2001

when you get the rebuild, pay the extra to get synthetic transmision fluid in. Synthetic transmission fluid handles higher temperatures better without deterioration.

Don't forget to service it every 15,000 miles with more synthetic. that will improve your chances.

jl30 · August 2001

is a clone of the Mitsubishi 3000GT's transmission. It has a reputation to fail by not using the Mitsu's OEM filter and ATF. Be sure not to use the generic stuff for pep boy or autozone and you will be fine.

blucy2 · August 2001

Any ideas anyone? Daughters 81 Chevy Impala, 37k miles (no kidding), someone accidently (stupid) put quart of transmission fluid in oil and drove about 8-10 miles. We're afraid to drive it 3 miles to oil change place, should we? Is this ruined? Any ideas? help.......

Transmission Traumas?

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