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Transmission Traumas?

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Comments

  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    My Subaru did exactly that at 90,000 miles. It was not when it was new. I had a manual tranny overhaul years ago, and it was literally as good as new. If it's still under warranty, take it back and let them examine it. It shouldn't be happening on a recent overhaul.

    I have been able to minimize the issue by draining out the Tranny fluid, and replacing it with 2 things. Lubegard for manual transmissions (found at NAPA) and synthetic manual transmission fluid. Lubegard is specially formulated to reduce mesh shock and gear grinding. The symptoms are not gone, but greatly reduced. I don't intend to get an overhaul anytime soon.

    When downshifting, rev the engine, or double clutch. It will slide in easier.
  • jlmilkjlmilk Posts: 1
    My 97 suburban should have been yellow... it is a LEMON!!! The first transmission went out at 34,000 and was replaced by dealer with new 36,000 mile warranty. Another 38,000 miles later the "new" one went out. Through annoying phone calls daily to CM, they paid for half ($800).

    A couple of months ago, felt it slipping again. Took it to local dealership who "couldn't find anything wrong" (Most likely honey-lube!).

    My newest problem may have nothing at all to do with transmission but who knows. The gear sifter will not move out of park after being parked in the sun in hot weather for up to 10 minutes!!! No problem during cool weather or after being parked in garage.

    I've had the problem diagnosed as the solenoid/actuator; however, after this was replaced there is no change in the problem.

    Ever heard of anything like this? No one in my small town has and in talking to the dealership they deny this could have anything to do with the transmission. By the way, it is an automatic.
  • seguyseguy Posts: 133
    FOR THAT ADVICE. MY RANGER IS ALSO AT 90K MILES. PRETTY STRANGE. WELL, THE REBUILT TRANNY WAS PUT IN LAST YEAR I BELIEVE, BUT IN RIVERSIDE, CA, BUT RESIDES IN COLORADO NOW. THE LADY I BOUGHT IT FROM SAID HER DAD DROVE IT FROM OVER THERE AFTER THE INSTALL. DON'T KNOW IF THE WARRANTY WOULD STILL BE VALID ANYWAYS.

    WELL TOMORROW I'M GOING TO A REPUTABLE/KNOWLEDGEABLE TRANNY SHOP IN TOWN TO HAVE THEM TEST DRIVE AND TROUBLE SHOOT IT.

    I WAS DRIVING AROUND TODAY TO EXPERIMENT WITH THE GEARS AND FOUND THAT MY IDEA DID WORK AFTER ALL. INSTEAD OF DOWNSHIFTING DIRECTLY FROM 5-3 OR 4-3, I DEPRESS THE CLUTCH, MOVE THE SHIFTER FROM 4-2-3, THEN RELEASE THE CLUTCH. ALSO WORKS FROM 5-2-3. ALOT BETTER THAN HEARING THAT 3RD GEAR GRIND WHICH CAN'T BE GOOD FOR IT. I WONDER HOW LONG SHE'S BEEN DRIVING IT LIKE THAT??? SHE DIDN'T SEEM TO BE VERY OBSERVANT WITH THOSE KINDS OF DETAILS, BUT AT LEAST SHE FOLLOWED THE OIL CHANGE SCHEDULE EVERY 3K. ANYHOW, 3RD DOESN'T SEEM TO SLIP AT ALL, JUST STRANGE HOW THE DIRECT 4-3, OR 5-3 SHIFT MAKES IT GRIND. I CAN LIVE WITH MY SLIGHTLY LONGER SHIFTER TRAVEL FROM 4-2-3 FOR A LONG TIME, IF IT'S GOING TO COST ME ALOT TO FIX IT, SINCE EVERYTHING ELSE SEEMS FINE.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    You're welcome. Let us know what they say. I wonder if it's a synchromesh issue. Lubegard on 2 of my tranny's has really helped them. Smoother and quieter. Synthetic fluid holds up to heat without breaking down. I've found that it's much cheaper to keep a car to 200,000 miles, so I baby them a lot.
  • seguyseguy Posts: 133
    took it to a reputable tranny shop in town and confirmed what i had suspected. he said 3rd gear syncro is bad. est. $1200 to replace all bearing, rings, etc. since he said the people who had rebuilt it this last march did a crappy job cutting corners with cheaper parts. he said he'd just drive it like it is, since it's not a big problem. told him about my 4-2-3 shift and said that's fine. i just wanted to make sure it wouldn't lead to a larger/costlier breakdown in the future. but he assured me the bad sychro-mesh wouldn't cause anything like that.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,266
    I've been driving on a bad 2nd gear synchro in my Alfa for over three years. You need to learn to double clutch and it'll probably be smooth as silk.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • seguyseguy Posts: 133
    is that like pumping the clutch during the shift or what?? thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,266
    It's a way of "timing" the gears better.

    Let's say you've been grinding on a 3 to 2 downshift (like my Alfa does).

    So instead of shifting into 2 from 3, you shift into neutral, lift up on the clutch pedal and race the engine at the same time, THEN depress the clutch again and shift into 2....bingo, nice and smooth, no noise. It sounds clunky and awkward, but it quickly becomes second nature. I don't even think about it anymore.

    This is also done in racing not because of synchro problems but to avoid what is called "compression braking"....it helps to get engine speed up to wheel speed on high speed downshifts.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • bruschbrusch Posts: 4
    THIS IS A 1990 NISSAN 2.4CYL. AUTOMATIC. IT WONT' SHIFT INTO 3RD. GEAR UNTIL I REACH 35MPH OR UNTIL I DRIVE FOR 10-12 MILES AND THEN IT WILL SHIFT AT 28MPH. GENERALLY IT IS FINE UNLESS IT SITS FOR 4-5 HOURS AND THEN IT WILL DO THE SAME. It've HAD THE TYRANNY DRAINED AND FILLED. IT Doesn't SHIFT HARD OR SLIP AND RUNS GREAT,BUT IT JUST Doesn't SEEM LIKE A NORMAL THING TO ME. IT HAS 94000 MILES ON IT BUT HAS BEEN WELL MAINTAINED. It've SEEN MY GAS MILEAGE DECLINE TO ABOUT 14MPG AND WONDER IF THIS TYRANNY PROBLEM MAY HAVE SOMETHING TO DO WITH IT. THIS IS A 2ND CAR AND I DON' WANT TO SINK ALOT OF MONEY INTO IT.
  • My 94 front wheel drive transmission has 2.4 engine custom sedan. It has 92,000 miles on it.
    I noticed a couple months ago when I started the car in the morning it began to make a very loud thumping or clunking noise as if something was stuck in the fan motor. When the car was put into a gear the noise stopped. Then a couple of weeks later it began having trouble when I would come to a stop or turn it acted as if the anti-lock brake system was malfunctioning. After having 3 different quotes for a rebuilt transmission I am left wondering if I pay the 1,300 to 1,800 dollars to have the transmission replaced would the motor then go out? Is there anything you could suggest me checking before replacing?
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    I would have the dealer or a good independent shop make a diagosis of the problems you are having, and then you know what needs to be repaired,then you can make a decision on what to do.It would be cheaper in the long run.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    car:'99 MAzda protege ES

    I would be making a tranny fluid change next month.
    I was thinking of putting Lubegard with friction modifiers as an additive in my new 100% synthetic tranny oil.
    any ideas on how it would work out?
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Posts: 183
    I've used in in two transmissions now. My 5 speed was having trouble shifting to second and from fifth down to fourth. It shifts much smoother. I don't get that rough bumping and gearshock unless I really jam it. I think if I had used Lubegard since I bought the car, I would not have had transmission damage.

    My automatic shifts smoother than it ever has. The second bottle added after the usual 30,000 mile service made it even quieter.

    I will not be without Lubegard in the Transmission in the foreseeable future.

    Highly recommened, and it's cheap compared to other brands that are fraudulent. I also put it in the power steering with good results. All for under $10.00 a bottle at NAPA.
  • auxesisauxesis Posts: 1
    My 1997 sub. has 66,000 mi on it and the trans, All of a sudden has no forward or rev. Fliud. is up and does not smell burnt. There was no warning of any problems before this happened..
    Thank you, AUXESIS
  • bearmerbearmer Posts: 37
    I recently bought a 1999 Lumina LTZ with a 4T65E transaxle. I hadn't driven anything newer than the mid '80s so I guess I'm easy to please. It always seems to be in the right gear. The shifts are a bit mushy for me. Can anybody comment on it's durability? I've had several cars with the 125C and I haven't been able to wear one out yet so I wonder if the smoothness of the 4T65E comes with a price. Also, when I keep an eye on the tachometer as the torque converter clutch is engaging, it seems that the drop in engine RPM is gradual. Is that possible?
  • Hi all. I was wondering if anyone can help me???
    I purchased a used 1995 Dodge Stealth about a year ago from a dealership. Since then I have only put about 12,000 miles on the car. The mileage is only at 47,666. The other day I could not get the car to go into reverse ( its an automatic) and was told the transmission was shot. When I contacted the Dodge dealership I was told they could give me a new transmission but the warranty was only for 12 months or 12,000 miles. That doesn't seem quite right to me. Seems to me if Dodge was confident in their transmissions, they would guarantee it longer than that. Any suggestions? Can anyone help??
  • q45manq45man Posts: 416
    All manufacturers limit replacement parts to 12/12k except GM under certain conditions. Rebuilt trans may be brand new, partial rebuilt, totally rebuilt old case, depends upon whats in stock. Chrysler has some of the weakest worst transmission in the industry according to rebuilders many fail around 36k.

    http://www.thecomplaintstation.com/c/chrysler_toc.htm
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    when you get the rebuild, pay the extra to get synthetic transmision fluid in. Synthetic transmission fluid handles higher temperatures better without deterioration.

    Don't forget to service it every 15,000 miles with more synthetic. that will improve your chances.
  • jl30jl30 Posts: 11
    is a clone of the Mitsubishi 3000GT's transmission. It has a reputation to fail by not using the Mitsu's OEM filter and ATF. Be sure not to use the generic stuff for pep boy or autozone and you will be fine.
  • blucy2blucy2 Posts: 7
    Any ideas anyone? Daughters 81 Chevy Impala, 37k miles (no kidding), someone accidently (stupid) put quart of transmission fluid in oil and drove about 8-10 miles. We're afraid to drive it 3 miles to oil change place, should we? Is this ruined? Any ideas? help.......
  • daysailerdaysailer Posts: 711
    I'd change the oil & filter immediately (at home), drive the car a few miles after it had reached normal operating temperature, then change the oil & filter AGAIN.
  • I am preparing to change the transmission oil for my 99 Nissan Altima, but on of my friend told me, I just need to drain and refill the oil and do not need to change the oil filter, is that right?
  • I've had the engine light come on before during a trip and it turned out after getting to my destination that the transmission was shot...THANK GOD it was still under warranty...fast forward 14 months...the engine light is back on...my Park sometimes doesn't engage and lock the transmission, also I have rough idling...does anyone have any ideas so when I take it to the dealer they don't try to rip me a new one!!!! Thanx
  • I had a good friend who is a mechanic look at my vehicle...it wasn't any of the problems that I saw on this website. I had a leak from a plastic gasket from the map/barometer line to the intake. That fixed the problem!!! So beware if they tell you that you need to replace your map/barometer sensor...
  • rayfbairdrayfbaird Posts: 183
    I would certainly change the filter -- unless you have an extended use one that is well below it's useful life.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I had a manual transmission always vibrated in 4th gear when it was over 60 MPH. It wouldn't make any noise, except for the 4wd button. Then it would buzz. After adding Lubegard I found on a recent trip to Yellowstone and 12 hours of driving and needing to shift into the lower gears to pass other vehicles that it didn't vibrate at all.

    This means to me that my transmission is now smoother and better functioning.
  • 28,000 miles on the OD and stuck in low gear on the New York thruway in Albany. "Limped" home (was able to "reset" the trans by stopping/shutting off engine, then restarting again. But once I slowed down I had to go thru this same process all over). Chrysler service repaired the car in a few hours by replacing the speed sensor.

    Don't know how much additional damage was done as now the trans "slips" a bit. To the point where my wife and young son even notice it (ya think maybe the service tech will notice it when I bring it in and complain??). My advice to all Chrsyler/Dodge owners. Hold onto your paperwork and service request letters. You're going to need them. . .
  • PLEASE HELP:MY TRANS. SHIFTS FINE SOME TIMES THEN OTHER TIMES IT STAYS IN LOW GEAR ALL THE TIME.ALSO SOMETIMES I CAN SHUT IT OFF AND RESTART AND THEN IT WILL SHIFT.CAN I RESET THE COMPUTOR SOME WAY

    THANK YOU MARSHA
  • vidtechvidtech Posts: 212
    I have always maintained my ford's tranny(1986 model C5).It has 151000 miles on it.It shifts fine
    but I started hearing a humming noise from it when it is in gear-idling.Hum goes away by putting in park or nuetral.Sound serious?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The hum is probably the main pressure regulator valve hunting in it's bore in the valve body. Does the noise go away if you raise the engine rpm while stationary? If so, there may be a restriction or leak on the intake side of the transmission pump. I'd start with a fluid and filter change. The original factory fill on the C5 was M2C-138-CJ fluid, but it's been superceded by Mercon/Dexron III.
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