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Mazda MX-5 Miata (2005 and earlier)

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Comments

  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,691
    Same car, same person here. Im changing the brake and clutch fluid. Im wondering where the bleeder bolt for the clutch is. Is it easy to get at and if not, how do you get at it to bleed out the clitch. Incidently there was a layer of grey sludge on the bottom of the clutch fluid resevoir.
  • kymikekymike Posts: 115
    I am not familiar with the '99 models, but the bleeder bolt for the clutch slave cylinder on a 92 is on top of the slave cylinder - passenger side towards the front of the transmission housing. You can trace the clutch fluid line from the reservoir to the slave cylinder. The bleeder bolt should be right there. Sometimes it is easier to see and bleed with the front passenger wheel removed.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,691
    Yes I followed it over to the passenger side but couldnt trace it farther than that. Rats I just had that wheel off today to bleed the wheel caliper. I should have looked for it.Incidently if while removeing the lug nuts you happen, in spite of all your efforts, to twist one of the wheel studs off, its fairly easy to replace it. Just knock it toward the center of the car with a large ball peen hammer and a punch. Turn up the wheel so the stud will clear the caliper/brake pad carrier. It might even be possible to slip the new one in without removeing the disc and caliper which is what I did.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,691
    Does anybody know the thread dimentions of the part the oil filter screws to? Is it 18 X 1.5 mm or 20X 1.5mm? Thanks!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I changed mine so I should have some pics, let me look...

    http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=4289876491

    You have to register at ImageStation but it's worth it. You'll see the bleed valve on the top of the slave cylinder in photos 2 and 4. The location is in another photo, of course I had removed it to rebuild it, but you'll know where to look and what it looks like.

    Bleed the whole system. My '93 had very filthy fluid, dark and nasty. I used the turkey baster to remove all the fluid I could, filled with fresh fluid and then had my wife pump the clutch pedal while I bled. Remember to refill the reservoir every once in a while, just like with the brakes.

    The oil filter is #6609, IIRC. Not sure about the dimensions.

    -juice
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,691
    I took off the wheel again, found the clutch cylinder, and bled it out. While I was in there I painted the upper and lower control arms with rust bonding paint called Extend by Loctite. The car before I bought it lived at the shore and there was more corrosion than what Im used to seeing on the underneath of the car. I also painted the exhust system back of the cat with it. It was very satisfactory.
    After suctioning out the brake and clutch fluid as much as possible I wipe out the inside of the resevoirs with a clean rag pushed by the tip of a screwdriver. Gets every bit of sludge out.
  • Hi there, I need some advice. I am getting ready to sell my Miata and understand that the particular color/model I have is sought after by Miata enthusiasts. She is hunter green w/tan top (newly replaced plastic window - new radiator), 79K miles, good condition - but needs new tires, a/c needs charging, and a tune up. What would be a fair price?"> Thanks alot.
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    97 M isn't really any more desirable than any of the other M editions. Usually you'll get about $1k more with the M over a regular Miata. You'll need to deduct for the maintenance, tires, and a/c. You're talking $600 -$1000 for maintenance, $400+ for tires and $300+ for the A/C.

    Probably worth around $5 - $6k. Might check Miata.net for pricing from Miata enthuisists.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I would do the tune-up before you sell. A buyer isn't going to know if it's a minor thing, especially if it's thrown a check-engine light. Might even want to do the tires.

    If it can't pass inspection, noone's going to want to buy it.

    -juice
  • I was wondering if anyone on the forum has ever added sound insulation under the Miata's hood to reduce the engine noise? I assume all older Miatas did not come with hood insulation but I think it might be practical in cutting back engine revving noise.

    Can hood insulation be factory ordered for an 07 model and if someone has an older model should Mazda dealer/service department be able to add insulation upon customer request.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,691
    Yes my cars PO installed this sticky brown sheet of insulation in the "holes" under the hood and trunk. Its since dried out and is coming unglued. If you want I think I could get the name off it.
  • Hello, Don!

    Realize you posted your question almost two years ago, but I just purchased a new 2005 Mazdaspeed Miata with the Bose system and Windblocker speakers and experienced the same low volume issue. What have you learned since your initial posting? Am most interested!

    Regards,
    Rita 2005 Red MazdaSpeed-MX5
  • Just got a CEL with code p1135, "O2 sensor heated". I understand there are two O2 sensors for 1999 miata, one front, one back. Is the diagnostic code specific to one or the other sensors or should I be concerned about both of them? Thanks for any technical help you can give.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Given the age, I'd probably replace both. I do think they are a wear item, and they are 7+ years old at this point.

    -juice
  • thanks Juice, that is what I've decided to do.
    Reed
  • I also have a 2002 MX-5 with the same right side roof latch that won't stay latched. It can be easily replaced but I think that $150.00 is ridiculous for a part that should never have broken down with so little use. There is no adjustment that I can see and it is obviously not the same as the left one in terms of it's clearance and ability to lock into place. Anyone have experience in a reasonable solution? If it doesn't get replaced, the roof may fly open or get sprung at high speeds.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    There is an adjustment on the top itself. You turn a nut and it loosens or tightens the fastener.

    I've had 2 new tops recently (first was vandalized), and they come very tight. So I had it set as loose as possible.

    As it aged, I had to tighten the nut very slightly.

    Check it out.

    -juice
  • ungsungs Posts: 2
    I have a 1990 Miata. Recently the headlights will not "pop" up when I turn on the headlights. I have to activate the headlight pop up feature from the center panel button just below the emergency 4 way blinker. Yet when I turn the headlights off with the turn signal arm switch after pressing the center panel button they go down. Any ideas what is causing the headlight switch on the turn signal arm not to function properly?
  • I had a 72 MG in my younger years and after many years driving boring family sedans the time is right to dump my BORING 06 Corolla for a 2001 SE. It's super nice with 40K for $12k Is there anything in particular with this car I need to look for? Thanks.
  • I originally posted this in a different area but am learning how to navigate the site.

    I need help with my 2000 Miata (mileage 58000) - the check engine light is on constantly. Mechanic says "misfiring cylinder" and suggests the spark plugs be replaced. This can't be rocket science...can anyone tell me where they are located? My owner's manual says absolutely nothing.

    :sick:

    Besides the spark plugs, I have brand new air, fuel and oil filters (and newly changed oil)...any ideas why my engine check light would still be on? I have to get an emissions test and I am running out of things to fix!!

    Thanks in advance!

    Flux
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Spark plug wires are the most likely problems. They last only about 30k on the Miata, I'm on my 3rd set already!

    The spark plugs are easy to get to, right at the top of the engine, where the four wires lead in to the top of the heads.

    To be honest, if you have to ask, I'd recommend a mechanic. You should use anti-sieze on the plug threads since it's an alloy block, and you would need a torque wrench to prevent overtightening.

    Try those 2 things first. At 60k you should pretty much replace them anyway. Best of luck.

    -juice
  • I had some issues with my battery the other day, and before I noticed my mistake I had placed the jumper cables on backwards. Now I am having some electrial issues. The Miata runs and drives still, (I replaced the battery after I jumped the car) but now the interior lights don't work, and the radio doesn't work. Everything else, (the lights, wipers, cruise control, etc.) seems to be fine. When the car is started, it seems to take longer to fire when turning over. Also, the car sometimes has "power surges" when you are coasting at speed (is surges forward, then backs down with no change in gas pedal position). Oh, and my check engine light is on. I checked all the fuses and none are blown. I don't know where (and can't find) any of the fusable links are. Also, the car won't communicate with a tester. I thought maybe I had fried the ECM, but I figured the car wouldn't run if that were the case. Any ideas where I can start?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I wonder if you can reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for an hour or so. Give yourself a fresh start with it.

    I've done that on Subarus but not on my Miata.

    -juice
  • I'm considering getting a JR supercharger kit for my '91 Miata. I wonder if anyone on this forum has personal experience with this kit.

    In particular, how does this supercharger affect throttle response? The snappy response of the stock engine is one of the qualities I like most about it. Does adding the kit require retarding the base ignition timing? I've read some have added either a MSD boost timing unit or a J&S knock sensor along with the JR supercharger kit to deal with detonation. Have you found this to be a necessary addition?
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Best answers at miata.net.
  • I am having the same problem as medic2240 can anyone help?
  • If anyone has some NA visors (for first edition Miata) they don't want please let me know. I'm looking for the little plastic clip-hinges that attach the two folding flaps together. Seems like some of you have taken the visors off your Miatas.

    If you can make yours available, even just the clips (!) please e-mail Message me.

    Thanks!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I have them, but I'm saving them for when I sell the car. I'm not sure it'll even pass MD inspection without any visors, so I'll probably put them back on when I sell.

    Sorry. :(
  • rflrfl Posts: 100
    Just took delivery of a nice 2001 Miata convertible. It did NOT come with sun visors. I gather from reading this forum that some drivers remove them. Can someone tell me why and, if possible where I can obtain a set and if I need any special hardware to mount them. There seem to be "plates" where the visors should mount with a Mazda logo on them. I assume they came originally with the vehicle. Does anyone know if a car will pass Pennsylvania inspection without them?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I bet the inspector won't notice.

    Many owners do remove them, and in fact I have, because for tall people they are worse than useless. When deployed, they block your view forward completely.

    When stored, they blocked my view partially.

    Removed, they don't block my view. On my 93 the plate you're talking about is still there, it just leaves a hole where the visor used to attach to.
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