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Mazda MX-5 Miata (2005 and earlier)

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Comments

  • johnchunjohnchun Member Posts: 20
    I have 45k miles on my car! Owner 12 months! Driven only 8 months! :) Yes, 6k/month! :P Auto cross and Drags too! Aka Wild fast weavy track like Formula 1 racing and 1/4 mile. I drive 5-6k a month! 50-60k a year since 1974! Many mercedes, dodges, JapCars, Camaro Rag top, porsches and a vett too. But for the cheap money, low weight, and 50k warranty ($1400 more and you get 100k warranty) it's a blast. Got the 04 Turbo MazdaSpeed! 178HP = 100hp per Liter! I keep testing other cars, Porsche, Vett, S2000, Subaru, 350Z, etc. Can't beat the "glue-motorcycle" feeling! Sold 3 motorcycles, 1 Dodge Ram and Honda SUV. On my 2nd set of 205-40-17 tires ;) Learning again how to drive like "formula1, 1/4mile, and Drifting" all at the same time shopping for "property" in the Hurricane Damaged areas! Fun while making big money! Go 4 it! I'll meet you at some AutoCross races... oh... rallys! Insurance company doesn't like the word races... www.scca.com for Autocross.... The "high" is better than "sky diving".... and safer too!
  • johnchunjohnchun Member Posts: 20
    Hey, some "A-Hole" let out air on my front right tire, to 8lbs. :cry: Drove on Interstate 45 for 30miles and then went to put air in. ;) Went to get the tire checked out and they said no damage to the rim or tire! :P Wal-mart! The only way I could tell was the Louder NOISE going over the "strip bumps". :shades: .. aka louder "thuds" vs. "bumps" sound! :D Now I wrench on the "valve covers"!
  • johnchunjohnchun Member Posts: 20
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yeah, sounds like you don't need caffeine. :shades:

    -juice
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    Seems like you draw a lot of attention to yourself!

    The only thing I would recommend, since you seem to like it, is to do a walk around the car before you get in the car. You would have caught the low tire scenario, if you had made a habit of doing a walk around.
  • ronnerronner Member Posts: 1
    The rear window of my soft top is shot. The rest is great. So I decided to try and remove by myself. Now the rear came right up with no problems. The front was not really much harder. And in 30 minutes I thought I was good to go. Then I realized I could not figure out how to detach the corners by the hinged frame.

    Could some one offer some advice. Or better yet, offer some instructions... Thanks. It's spring and I want to put the hard top away. I own a 1993 in excellent condition.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I think you're referring to the dreaded B-pillar retaining clips, AKA the binding guards.

    Let me try to find you a link to the instructions I used...try these:

    http://miata.net/garage/top/

    Note that he used a special jeweler's tool for the very tight space. I used a stubby screw driver but it gave me a *LOT* of trouble.

    I hope that's what you're talking about, it was the hardest part for me.

    -juice
  • duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    My wife is considering a 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT, or the 2006 MX-5. Anyone want to opine on the pros/cons of each choice (when compared to each other)? Both cars would be AT, and the Spyder would be a V-6. Thanks for your opinions!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    MX5 is more fun, more nimble, more efficient, cheaper, easier to park, and more reliable. It's a very involving drive.

    Eclipse is roomier, possibly more comfortable, more of a GT style car. The back seat is useless, except for cargo, but it probably would be a bit more practical. That's a torquey V6 for lazy, laid back driving. But it's very heavy so I would not call it sporty.

    I'd say this: be honest, do she need a practical car? If yes, does she have access to another car if she needs it once in a while?

    MX5 makes an excellent 2nd car, my other car is a Forester and they complement each other very well.

    -juice
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I heard somewhere that the Eclipse weighs in at over a half of a ton heavier and that it's FWD only. Ewwwww. :P

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    Pros and cons discussed above. The Miata will be cheaper to operate and hold its resale value better.

    Real question is... What does she like? I'd take the Miata anyday, but the Eclipse isn't a bad car.
  • duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    Well, she has a 4Runner now, which has been a great practical car to compliment my RX-8. I am leaning towards the Spyder just because it is bigger, but I think there is more room in the back seat of the RX-8 than there is in the Spyder. FWD is actually a good thing for her, since if the roads are bad she will still need to go to work (she's a nurse). It will probably boil down to the test drive, but it helps to get opinions from this group!
  • duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    I'm curious as to why the Miata will be cheaper to operate? The mpg is only 1 off between the cars, and the Spyder's warranty is 5 years, 60K miles bumper to bumper plus 10 years 120K mile powertrain. We tend to keep our cars 4-6 years.
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    Miata is cheaper long-term. One of the most reliable sports cars out there. It's like owning an economy car. Trust me on the mileage, the V6 will not get the same real world mileage. Warranty work really depends on the local dealer. I think it's a good idea to find other owners who have experienced service at your local dealerships for the different brands. Some are better then others. You may have better service at the Mazda dealer or visa-versa. I hope Mitsubishi is still around. They've been on shaky financial ground. I think they will be and it's not something I'd worry about.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    There is very little mechanical complexity.

    For instance, I rebuilt my clutch slave cylinder for $10.74.

    I got a new top and installed it myself, glass rear window and a new rain rail, and it cost $460.

    Go price those for an Eclipse...

    -juice
  • bcameron2008bcameron2008 Member Posts: 1
    I'm in the same boat - I have both the coach and the Miata (Coachmen 38' pusher and manual 1997 Miata soon-to-be toad) and I want to tow it.

    I don't agree with some of your responders. I have done some research and I hear you will fry the tranny if you tow it a lot. The RV towing folks sell a driveshaft disconnect (very simple - pull a handle inside and it free wheels) but expensive ($500. US). I understand this is the only mod needed.

    I'm planning on doing this, but am looking for someone that has been there, done that, and it was successful??

    I'm not finding any info on any of the Miata sites - any ideas??

    Anyone out there done this???
  • sturobertsturobert Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Miata with 28,000 miles and my CEL came on. Autozone said it was a P 1518 code meaning the Intake Manifold Runner Control was stuck open. The dealer ordered a "delay valve" which should be in next week. Total cost with parts and labor = $188. Does this sound right?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Not sure but I'm surprised any repair is that cheap nowadays, so I would not complain.

    -juice
  • vegasresidentvegasresident Member Posts: 22
    I have had the 6 speed since buying my Miata in 2000 (SE model). I love it. Moving to 6 gives a smoother ride and then when I need a power boost, I can go down to 5 on the highway. There is no problem moving between the gears.

    By the way. I have now had my Miata 6 years and LOVE IT!

    Only maintenance all this time.

    PS: If you have the tan top, over time it gets darker from dirt, but you may not notice it. I used some Simple Green with a little elbow grease and SHAZAAAMM I had the orginal top color back ever since! :P
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I just bought a 99 Miata. I was told the car had not been driven a lot during the past year, just enough to keep it from dying. So its possible the gas in the tank has been in there a while. Is there any reason to drain the gas? Is it possible to do it within reason? What effect would old gas have on my upcoming emissions test for inspection? Thanks!
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Same car, same person here. Im changing the brake and clutch fluid. Im wondering where the bleeder bolt for the clutch is. Is it easy to get at and if not, how do you get at it to bleed out the clitch. Incidently there was a layer of grey sludge on the bottom of the clutch fluid resevoir.
  • kymikekymike Member Posts: 115
    I am not familiar with the '99 models, but the bleeder bolt for the clutch slave cylinder on a 92 is on top of the slave cylinder - passenger side towards the front of the transmission housing. You can trace the clutch fluid line from the reservoir to the slave cylinder. The bleeder bolt should be right there. Sometimes it is easier to see and bleed with the front passenger wheel removed.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Yes I followed it over to the passenger side but couldnt trace it farther than that. Rats I just had that wheel off today to bleed the wheel caliper. I should have looked for it.Incidently if while removeing the lug nuts you happen, in spite of all your efforts, to twist one of the wheel studs off, its fairly easy to replace it. Just knock it toward the center of the car with a large ball peen hammer and a punch. Turn up the wheel so the stud will clear the caliper/brake pad carrier. It might even be possible to slip the new one in without removeing the disc and caliper which is what I did.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Does anybody know the thread dimentions of the part the oil filter screws to? Is it 18 X 1.5 mm or 20X 1.5mm? Thanks!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I changed mine so I should have some pics, let me look...

    http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=4289876491

    You have to register at ImageStation but it's worth it. You'll see the bleed valve on the top of the slave cylinder in photos 2 and 4. The location is in another photo, of course I had removed it to rebuild it, but you'll know where to look and what it looks like.

    Bleed the whole system. My '93 had very filthy fluid, dark and nasty. I used the turkey baster to remove all the fluid I could, filled with fresh fluid and then had my wife pump the clutch pedal while I bled. Remember to refill the reservoir every once in a while, just like with the brakes.

    The oil filter is #6609, IIRC. Not sure about the dimensions.

    -juice
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    I took off the wheel again, found the clutch cylinder, and bled it out. While I was in there I painted the upper and lower control arms with rust bonding paint called Extend by Loctite. The car before I bought it lived at the shore and there was more corrosion than what Im used to seeing on the underneath of the car. I also painted the exhust system back of the cat with it. It was very satisfactory.
    After suctioning out the brake and clutch fluid as much as possible I wipe out the inside of the resevoirs with a clean rag pushed by the tip of a screwdriver. Gets every bit of sludge out.
  • tobecontnttobecontnt Member Posts: 1
    Hi there, I need some advice. I am getting ready to sell my Miata and understand that the particular color/model I have is sought after by Miata enthusiasts. She is hunter green w/tan top (newly replaced plastic window - new radiator), 79K miles, good condition - but needs new tires, a/c needs charging, and a tune up. What would be a fair price?"> Thanks alot.
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    97 M isn't really any more desirable than any of the other M editions. Usually you'll get about $1k more with the M over a regular Miata. You'll need to deduct for the maintenance, tires, and a/c. You're talking $600 -$1000 for maintenance, $400+ for tires and $300+ for the A/C.

    Probably worth around $5 - $6k. Might check Miata.net for pricing from Miata enthuisists.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I would do the tune-up before you sell. A buyer isn't going to know if it's a minor thing, especially if it's thrown a check-engine light. Might even want to do the tires.

    If it can't pass inspection, noone's going to want to buy it.

    -juice
  • stopandgostopandgo Member Posts: 4
    I was wondering if anyone on the forum has ever added sound insulation under the Miata's hood to reduce the engine noise? I assume all older Miatas did not come with hood insulation but I think it might be practical in cutting back engine revving noise.

    Can hood insulation be factory ordered for an 07 model and if someone has an older model should Mazda dealer/service department be able to add insulation upon customer request.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Member Posts: 1,694
    Yes my cars PO installed this sticky brown sheet of insulation in the "holes" under the hood and trunk. Its since dried out and is coming unglued. If you want I think I could get the name off it.
  • red05speedmx5red05speedmx5 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, Don!

    Realize you posted your question almost two years ago, but I just purchased a new 2005 Mazdaspeed Miata with the Bose system and Windblocker speakers and experienced the same low volume issue. What have you learned since your initial posting? Am most interested!

    Regards,
    Rita 2005 Red MazdaSpeed-MX5
  • colreedcolreed Member Posts: 2
    Just got a CEL with code p1135, "O2 sensor heated". I understand there are two O2 sensors for 1999 miata, one front, one back. Is the diagnostic code specific to one or the other sensors or should I be concerned about both of them? Thanks for any technical help you can give.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Given the age, I'd probably replace both. I do think they are a wear item, and they are 7+ years old at this point.

    -juice
  • colreedcolreed Member Posts: 2
    thanks Juice, that is what I've decided to do.
    Reed
  • pszafranskipszafranski Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 2002 MX-5 with the same right side roof latch that won't stay latched. It can be easily replaced but I think that $150.00 is ridiculous for a part that should never have broken down with so little use. There is no adjustment that I can see and it is obviously not the same as the left one in terms of it's clearance and ability to lock into place. Anyone have experience in a reasonable solution? If it doesn't get replaced, the roof may fly open or get sprung at high speeds.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    There is an adjustment on the top itself. You turn a nut and it loosens or tightens the fastener.

    I've had 2 new tops recently (first was vandalized), and they come very tight. So I had it set as loose as possible.

    As it aged, I had to tighten the nut very slightly.

    Check it out.

    -juice
  • ungsungs Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1990 Miata. Recently the headlights will not "pop" up when I turn on the headlights. I have to activate the headlight pop up feature from the center panel button just below the emergency 4 way blinker. Yet when I turn the headlights off with the turn signal arm switch after pressing the center panel button they go down. Any ideas what is causing the headlight switch on the turn signal arm not to function properly?
  • ckone0814ckone0814 Member Posts: 71
    I had a 72 MG in my younger years and after many years driving boring family sedans the time is right to dump my BORING 06 Corolla for a 2001 SE. It's super nice with 40K for $12k Is there anything in particular with this car I need to look for? Thanks.
  • fluxcapacitofluxcapacito Member Posts: 2
    I originally posted this in a different area but am learning how to navigate the site.

    I need help with my 2000 Miata (mileage 58000) - the check engine light is on constantly. Mechanic says "misfiring cylinder" and suggests the spark plugs be replaced. This can't be rocket science...can anyone tell me where they are located? My owner's manual says absolutely nothing.

    :sick:

    Besides the spark plugs, I have brand new air, fuel and oil filters (and newly changed oil)...any ideas why my engine check light would still be on? I have to get an emissions test and I am running out of things to fix!!

    Thanks in advance!

    Flux
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Spark plug wires are the most likely problems. They last only about 30k on the Miata, I'm on my 3rd set already!

    The spark plugs are easy to get to, right at the top of the engine, where the four wires lead in to the top of the heads.

    To be honest, if you have to ask, I'd recommend a mechanic. You should use anti-sieze on the plug threads since it's an alloy block, and you would need a torque wrench to prevent overtightening.

    Try those 2 things first. At 60k you should pretty much replace them anyway. Best of luck.

    -juice
  • medic2240medic2240 Member Posts: 1
    I had some issues with my battery the other day, and before I noticed my mistake I had placed the jumper cables on backwards. Now I am having some electrial issues. The Miata runs and drives still, (I replaced the battery after I jumped the car) but now the interior lights don't work, and the radio doesn't work. Everything else, (the lights, wipers, cruise control, etc.) seems to be fine. When the car is started, it seems to take longer to fire when turning over. Also, the car sometimes has "power surges" when you are coasting at speed (is surges forward, then backs down with no change in gas pedal position). Oh, and my check engine light is on. I checked all the fuses and none are blown. I don't know where (and can't find) any of the fusable links are. Also, the car won't communicate with a tester. I thought maybe I had fried the ECM, but I figured the car wouldn't run if that were the case. Any ideas where I can start?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I wonder if you can reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for an hour or so. Give yourself a fresh start with it.

    I've done that on Subarus but not on my Miata.

    -juice
  • jungsterjungster Member Posts: 4
    I'm considering getting a JR supercharger kit for my '91 Miata. I wonder if anyone on this forum has personal experience with this kit.

    In particular, how does this supercharger affect throttle response? The snappy response of the stock engine is one of the qualities I like most about it. Does adding the kit require retarding the base ignition timing? I've read some have added either a MSD boost timing unit or a J&S knock sensor along with the JR supercharger kit to deal with detonation. Have you found this to be a necessary addition?
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    Best answers at miata.net.
  • musanovicmusanovic Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem as medic2240 can anyone help?
  • namxmiatanamxmiata Member Posts: 1
    If anyone has some NA visors (for first edition Miata) they don't want please let me know. I'm looking for the little plastic clip-hinges that attach the two folding flaps together. Seems like some of you have taken the visors off your Miatas.

    If you can make yours available, even just the clips (!) please e-mail Message me.

    Thanks!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I have them, but I'm saving them for when I sell the car. I'm not sure it'll even pass MD inspection without any visors, so I'll probably put them back on when I sell.

    Sorry. :(
  • rflrfl Member Posts: 100
    Just took delivery of a nice 2001 Miata convertible. It did NOT come with sun visors. I gather from reading this forum that some drivers remove them. Can someone tell me why and, if possible where I can obtain a set and if I need any special hardware to mount them. There seem to be "plates" where the visors should mount with a Mazda logo on them. I assume they came originally with the vehicle. Does anyone know if a car will pass Pennsylvania inspection without them?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I bet the inspector won't notice.

    Many owners do remove them, and in fact I have, because for tall people they are worse than useless. When deployed, they block your view forward completely.

    When stored, they blocked my view partially.

    Removed, they don't block my view. On my 93 the plate you're talking about is still there, it just leaves a hole where the visor used to attach to.
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