Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Check Engine light

12829313334

Comments

  • jketchhimjketchhim Member Posts: 3
    I have a very low mileage car 10000 but the CEL has been coming on for the last 5000 miles. The dealer says it's a misfire and to get better gas. When it comes on and flashing there is no misfire that i can tell. lucky its still under warranty any idea to get the dealer to fix this thing and stop blaming the gas. I have 3 other cars all Toyotas all running on the same gas just fine
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I would ask the dealer one more time to fix the problem. Ask for the code as well, since there is no code that I know of that says "bad gas". If you he still gives you a hard time, file a complaint with the Regional manager with the code number in the letter (certified of course). The check engine light means one of the many sensors in your car is performing out of spec. Based on the code, there are diagnostic steps the technician is suppose to follow to determine the problem. Some are easy, others may require more time to figure out.
  • jketchhimjketchhim Member Posts: 3
    The code for the light was misfiring of the engine but the dealer was blaming it on the gas
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    The reason I am asking for the code number is as explained in my earlier post. Saying it is misfiring doesn't help those on this board to help you. There are a number of codes for misfires. Here's a link to another person having a misfire in an Aveo: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20070218185756AAgLUXn&show=7

    I would call customer service and complain that your check engine light continues to come on and the dealer is not being "cooperative" in finding the answer. It would help if you had the code number when making the call. You can go to most major auto parts shop and they will read your code for free.
  • jayvee44jayvee44 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1997 volvo 850 gl with 139k mile on it, my check engine lite came on and the trans seems very sluggish now, loss of power also. Does it necessarily mean the trans is hot or has any one experienced maybe a electronic controller causing these symptoms
  • ivicaivica Member Posts: 34
    Just replaced my catalytic converter, what a difference to how the car performs. It drives like the day it was new, great acceleration, no sputtering or hesitation. I thought my transmission was slipping at times. Best investment in a long time.

    This has been the first real maintenance that I've done on the car 255,000 kms and still going strong. The steering and suspension are still tight.

    I bought a 3 way catalytic converter, the A Pipe that connects the exhaust manifold to the converter, oxygen sensor and all hardware and gaskets.

    Total parts from majestic were around $700.

    I paid the local muffler shop $80 to install. Honda dealer quoted over $2000 for this work.
    Only kicker is that Canadians pay about $240 for duties and taxes on top of that. So my total bill was half of what the local dealer wanted.

    Thanks to this site I saved a fortune. Not bad for a 10 year old car.

    J.
  • channel121channel121 Member Posts: 19
    I took it to my trusty mechanic not the autozone guy. He explained it was the Oxygen sensor heater malfunction. Cost about $250 to replace. Been using this guy for over ten years almost exclusively.

    So I just noticed a little note on the bottom of the bill that says the "oil pan gasket seeps." He obviously did not think I needed it replaced now or he would have pointed that out to me. My question-could it possibly be a oil leak from the crank or cam seals replaced when I put in a new timing belt 6 months ago? I took it to different mechanic back then(long story), then a month later that same mechanic said the cam and crank seals were leaking and needed to be replaced. I pointed out that they had just done that and that I had heard those seals can be tricky to install correctly. They "fixed" it and said I was all good. I'm wondering if I should have my old trusty mechanic check this out next time I'm in the shop for an oil change and just monitor my oil levels until then. What do you all think?
  • ivicaivica Member Posts: 34
    keep in mind for the futrue, you can get OEM parts from Majestic honda. I just purchased an oxygen sensor for around $90. They are easy to install.
  • channel121channel121 Member Posts: 19
    Is Majestic in the states? My mechanic told me Honda wanted over $200 for one so he got aftermarket. I had asked my brother earlier if he could do a quick install and he said he needed a lift or it would be too difficult. Maybe my brother is just lazy ;)

    Am I right that the oil pan gasket leak may be a engine seal leak instead?
  • ivicaivica Member Posts: 34
    yes, www.majestichonda.com , great people to deal with. Only catch is if you are from Canada, they add about 20% to the order for taxes and duties. The price is still great for OEM parts.

    good luck.
  • dshuppdshupp Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2000 Olds Intrigue with 120,000 miles, the cel light came on and the car will not start now. I bought a code reader, the codes I get are PO 335 crankshaft position sensor malfunction, and PO340 camshaft position sensor malfunction. Will these keep it from starting? , the starter and battery are good, I checked them.
    Thanks for any help!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    absolutely. The crankshaft sensor detects where the crank is (which has all of the pistons connected to it), and the camshaft sensor detects and reports on the valves opening and closing the intake valves and exhaust valves of the cylinders.

    Either one of those would cause your engine not to start.
  • dshuppdshupp Member Posts: 8
    Thank You! I thought so, Now my next problem, I heard the crankshaft sensor is hard to get to, I saw a picture of it at Auto Zone.com so I know what they look like, do you think they will show me where it is located along with the camshaft sensor when I buy them?
    Thanks Again!
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    I think it's a little troubling, that you have two different sensors being called out. I don't know your vehicle, but does it have a timing belt that is normally replaced as a maintenance item? (It may have a timing chain, and if so not necessary). The timing belt, connects the crankshaft rotations to the camshaft rotations. I don't know what kind of tools you have already, but you might want to do a compression test on a couple of the cylinders, to make sure the timing belt is still doing it's job and is shutting and opening the valves in concert with the piston movement. Assuming that is okay, then go ahead with the sensor changes.

    If you don't have compression, you have much bigger problems than sensors.
  • lucas8lucas8 Member Posts: 15
    My 1999 kia sephia's check engine light produced the P0422 code which is defined as "catalyst efficiency low - bank 1." The probable causes listed on the Autozone printout are:
    1) Catalytic converter defective (Failure possibly due to #2, 3 or 4).
    2) Engine misfire or running condition.
    3) Large vacuum leak.
    4) Engine oil leakage into exhaust-valve guide seals, piston rings.

    This light came on with the same code a couple weeks ago, and then turned off in a couple days, and now it's back. No vacuum leak's apparent, and I'm not noticing any change in the engine's running that could suggest an engine misfire. I'm not noticing any off-colored smoke coming from the exhaust, and I haven't been losing any substantial oil. So how would I check to see which one it is?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    replacing these sensors on the Intrigue are pretty common. I have read in other forums of people having to replace both at the same time. Your explanation makes me wonder if there is something else going on in the engine that causes the failure of both sensors at the same time.

    BTW, the engine does have a timing chain.
  • lucas8lucas8 Member Posts: 15
    Update: I drained some oil from the engine which either caused the deillimunation (a word?) or coincided with the check engine light not illuminating this time around. 30 miles and three starts later, it returned. The code was the same for the third time in three weeks. Perhaps I'm imagining it, but the engine does feel like it's lagging; I consider it as possibly being my imagination because of the intermittent nature of the light's illuminating leading to the possibility of simply a faulty wire. To that end, where would I start looking for the offending wire? Moreover, would a defective oxygen sensor necessarily say so on the code readout? Autozone quoted me $200 for the cat (I know it's available cheaper online, but what sites can I trust?), and I don't want to spend that kind of money until that's what it certainly is.
  • lucas8lucas8 Member Posts: 15
    When you say sensors, do you mean oxygen sensors? If not, then the printout and the Autozoner's explanation led me to believe it was one problem or another (oil in valve seals or malfunctioning cat), not both.
    What does the engine's having a timing belt have to do with it?
  • mistjustmistjust Member Posts: 3
    A month ago my car battery died, got it replaced and all was good for a while. Then it started to "slip" every now and then when I tried to start it. I would turn it over and I could hear it spin but the engine wouldn't crank, then the second time I tried it, it would start no problem. This has been increasing in frequency the last few weeks.
    Now this past weekend, when I decelerate to come to a stop it feels like it jerks a little when the transmission switches to its lowest gear (thats the best way I can describe it), and sometimes the "service engine soon" light comes on but usually just briefly until I accelerate again and then it goes away. Sometimes when I am idling the engine sounds like it is about to cut out, almost like it is sputtering along, but this goes away when I hit the gas pedal. at times, when it is idling, the service engine light comes on. When it is doing this the car definitely gets louder (with the sputtering..). I'd really appreciate suggestions and more information about what the possible problem could be. Also, since the car is 20 years old, I'd like to get a best guess on how much the repairs might be for this. Obviously I don't want to spend to much $$ on this car. Its done this a few times before in the past (usually every couple of months or so) but it has usually gone away when I added a half pint or so of engine oil. But this time it doesn't seem to be working. :sick:
  • lucas8lucas8 Member Posts: 15
    oops, thought you were responding to my post.
  • mistjustmistjust Member Posts: 3
    umm... dunno if I posted in the wrong section... sorry if I did
  • randy4urandy4u Member Posts: 1
    My 98 Cutlass 3.1 started off being hard to start after using about 3 weeks ago. The check engine light came on last week. Now today it is flashing. The car dies all the time and is hard to start and runs really rough. It also has a nasty smell like rotten eggs. Does this sound like a catalyst or a oxygen sensor? Thanks in advance for any help.
    Randy
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Flashing "check Engine" lights are generally not good. It could be a number of things including the Oxygen sensor and catalytic converter. I would schedule an appointment with your mechanic sooner rather then later.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    No problem lucas8.

    I suggest doing a google search on "Kia Sephia P0422". When I did it, I came up with a bunch of hits. Too much information to post. It seems the catalytic converter is probably not the problem and is likely some other sensor.
  • lucas8lucas8 Member Posts: 15
    thanks for the search, dtown.

    How easy is it to check the o2 sensor, which seems the likeliest easy fix?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    From everything I ahve read, there is no real way to "check" the O2 sensor. Most folks simply replace it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You CAN check them but you need a very high quality DC voltmeter and the 02 sensor has to be operating in the car at the time of the test.

    Most 02 sensor replacements are unnecessary but now and then, it is the right thing to do----less often than you'd think, however.
  • lucas8lucas8 Member Posts: 15
    If my mechanic checks the emissions (I figure the easiest and cheapest check possible), would they be the same for a defective oxygen sensor(s) and a defective cat?
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    From everything I have read, there is no real way to "check" the O2 sensor. Most folks simply replace it.

    A labscope is how we check the O2 sensors.
    You check the wave forms of the sensor. Some will be "lazy", slow or show signs of inoperation.

    If my mechanic checks the emissions (I figure the easiest and cheapest check possible), would they be the same for a defective oxygen sensor(s) and a defective cat?

    No, the O2 sensor is electrical, the cat is mechanical/chemical.
    So the O2 sensor is checked with a meter and labscope, where a cat/exhaust is checked with a pressure/vacuum gauge.
    If the cat is plugged, there will be a major pressure differential between the inlet pipe and outlet pipe of the cat.

    Here is some light reading on the subject.
    Testing the cat
    Diagnosing a Cat efficiency failure This is the proper way to diagnose it.
  • tlcruztlcruz Member Posts: 54
    Code p0507 idle control system (rpm too high) on my 02 nissan sentra se-r.

    what's a girl to do? :) any help is greatly appreciated!
  • tony12345tony12345 Member Posts: 9
    Hi there,

    I can help you if you want. Just post something here and I will get back to you. Try to give me as much info as you can. For example, are you taking your car into a garage for repairs or is a friend fixing your car. What parts have you changed recently? Stuff like that, then I can get a better idea on what to tell you how to fix your car.
  • tlcruztlcruz Member Posts: 54
    Sorry for responding so late!

    My Sentra has been getting its repairs at a garage (well known and does great work in my area). It was @ the garage on Thursday (the 20th) and they checked everything out and nothing seems to be wrong or relevant to the code. They cleared the code and it was fine for a few hours and the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light popped up again. We called the dealership and told them that it wasnt having this problem before it went to the dealership and they think it might have to do with when they reset the computer when it was at the dealership on the 13th for the ECM recall. Its idling higher than normal and pulling back when I left off the gas. It's going to the dealership on Tuesday to see if Nissan messed up or missed something.

    Thanks so much :)
  • tlcruztlcruz Member Posts: 54
    Took my car to the dealer today and they wanted to charge me to diagnose the car when we already know what's wrong with it. Got the idle relearned and reset and seems to be doing well so far :) Obviously, The tech who did the recall wasn't paying attention. :surprise: Hopefully, it won't have to go in anymore. :shades:
  • grgoden20grgoden20 Member Posts: 2
    Hiya, Ginger I am glad you didn't let them take you for a ride! I can actually picture you looking at the guy, anyways I thought your comment was funny!!!!! ;)
  • minivanforusminivanforus Member Posts: 9
    Hi people, I am new to the forum and hope someone could help me with my 2000 Civic check Engine light as well.
    I brought the car to the shop and the code is P1022 and the message is "Throttle low circuit"
    Does anybody know what kind of problem I am having and how to fix it?
    FYI...The problem has been on and off. When it is "on" I usually cancelled it and drive for days, or sometimes weeks, then the light would come back on a gain after a while intermittenly.
    Appreciate any help at all
    Minivanforus
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You must mean P0122

    The scan tool indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0122: A low voltage problem in the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuit.

    The TP Sensor is a potentiometer. It is connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the throttle position sensor varies the voltage signal to the ECM/PCM.

    You can't fix this yourself. You'll have to take it in for further diagnosis. Maybe it's just some wiring glitch, hopefully. If you have to replace the ECM that's expensive.
  • jv103jv103 Member Posts: 1
    First off let me say this has stumped three mechanics, one being the dealership. The code P1508 is an IAC valve failure. I have replaced the Valve and had the wiring checked. Problem came back immediately. Oh and the problem is a bouncing idle with jolting,surging acceleration, undriveable because the car shakes so bad. Anyway, I've also had the rotor changed, distributor changed, spark plugs and wiring. I've had the TP sensor cleaned. I took it to Honda and they said it may be an intermittent Idle and that I should buy their brand IAC because aftermarkets don't work. After Spending 1000 dollars to fix this mystery problem, I'm back where I started. I want to think it's the throttle because the problem is so pronounced during acceleration. I have to push in the clutch and coast mainly otherwise it jerks and jolts BAD. Anyone had this problem with their Honda? It has 165,400 miles and I haven't changed the O2 sensor since I got the car at 100K miles. Whadya think? Or is it the throttle boddy? Or none of the above?

    Thanks
  • minivanforusminivanforus Member Posts: 9
    Hi Mr Shiftright.
    Thank you for your help. You are right
    I was told that it is best to bring in the shop when the check engine light is "ON". I have been waiting for that to happen but everytime it does I am far away from the dealer. The car kind of "crawls and roars" on the road so I just cancelled the light and drive.
    Can I just drive to the dealer anyways and tell them of the diagnostic and have the ECM replaced. That way I could save 100$ for the second diagnostic?
    Also how much you would say the ECM costs? Is it worth it to hve it replace on the 8 year old car?
    Really appreciate your help
    Best Regards
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think I remember that the ECM was something like $650 bucks.

    Well unless you can buy another 8 year old car for $650, yeah, it's worth it. But maybe it's not that. Maybe it's only that throttle control business.
  • minivanforusminivanforus Member Posts: 9
    Thank you Mr Shiftright!
    Actually the car was brought in the repair shop once for the diagnostic. The mechanic was playing with the wire for a while but could not solve the problem. So I think it is not a wiring glitch.
    One last question though. If it is just the sensor issue and if the ECM costs more than I can afford then can I keep cancelling the check engine light and keep driving like that forever or it is getting to certain point where it might be too risky to drive?
    Best regards
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well I can't say because I'm not driving it. i don't know how it "behaves" in a way that makes the car unpredictable or dangerous. If it's JUST the light going on and driveability isn't affected, well then I can't see much harm.

    But the mechanic can't just wiggle wires and shrug. He should be able to diagnose each wire lead back to the pcm or the sensor---so if it's not A and it's not B, then it has to be C.

    Like that.....

    No guessing allowed.
  • minivanforusminivanforus Member Posts: 9
    Thank you Mr Shiftright,
    The mechanic actually "played" with the wire for a bit. He charged me 90$ for that as well.
    Well. I will take the car in when the light is on again. Hopefully I would be nearby some Honda dealership.
    Appreciate all your time and advices
    Best regards,
  • sshadersshader Member Posts: 1
    I had a problem with the car stalling the light came on I got it checked turned out to be the sensor which I had replaced both cam and crank shaft that was in Nov. Then it turns out there was a huge recall but i was not original owner and not notified Car has started doing the same thing and the light is back on could it be the sensors again should I take it to the dealer this time ??
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    Well, BEFORE they changed the IAC, they should have done some tests.
    First test should have been test the circuit.
    Next would be to jumper terminals A10 & A12 (you need a diagram and flowchart) momentarily to see if the IAC is actuating (clicking).
    Then pull the IAC and see if the port in the manifold to it, is plugged with oil or carbon.

    Did they clear the code and the same code returned?
    No dis-respect intended, but it sounds like you went to parts replacers, not mechanics.

    If they cleared the code and it returned the same code, then it is clear there is a problem with the IAC circuit. Now you need to find a real mechanic who can properly diagnose the problem.

    One thing before you go to another mechanic.
    On the left side shock tower, there is a loom of wires and connectors.
    Check those wires to make sure none are shorting, grounding or broken and check the connectors to make sure they are connected.
  • jamaalklinejamaalkline Member Posts: 1
    I am new to the forum thing so please bear with me. I have a 1995 Mercury tracer and the check engine light comes on after driving at about 45 mph. Once the check engine light comes on the car starts missing at low speed. The miss is very obvious. I have an OBD2 reader but I can't seem to find the OBD input located somewhere in the car. Can someone please tell me where to look for the OBD input. Is it under the steering wheel or maybe under the hood or somewhere.
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Member Posts: 175
    1995 is OBD1 you will find the DLC in the engine compartment near the left front wheel
  • robbon1960robbon1960 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 corolla that stumbles on acceleration. Codes show, multiple cylinder miss, lean mixture Bank 1 and evap. replaced plugs, oxygen sensor bank 1,and neither helped. Mechanic could not find the problem. It runs fine on the highway,but the miliage is dropping and it does not start immediately like it used to. The air filter has also been replaced. any ideas where to go from here. The car has 157,000 miles on it.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Check fuel pump/filter, and possible for leaky intake manifold. For the manifold, try spraying some carb cleaner on intake manifold gasket while running, if idle speed changes, you know you have a leak and drawing in air running lean.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You are attacking the symptom, not the disease. A trouble code does not tell you the component that is malfunctioning, only the circuit that is unhappy. So you have very unhappy cylinders, which suggests to me the other poster is right, you may have a vacuum leak, or something else that is messing up the fuel mixture ratio, thus making the 02 sensor unstable and throwing a misfire code.

    I would also suspect one or more clogging injectors, or injectors that give off an irregular spray pattern.

    More diagnosis is needed.
  • robbon1960robbon1960 Member Posts: 2
    MR kiowa and mr. shiftright

    Thank you for your help. Will bring it in to a dealernext week for help. Sounds like you know your stuff. Wish we had people like that around here.

    just as an update,the car is very hard to start when warm. Starts fine when cold. This has just started recently. Turns over fine but will only fire after several tries. Dealer is estiminating $1000 plus for repairs. He suspects a defective fuel pump, however wouldn't that show up at highway speeds? :confuse:
Sign In or Register to comment.