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Check Engine light

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  • dnungesserdnungesser Member Posts: 1
    The battery on my 1998 Grand Prix died and after replacing it the car will not run.
    I can put a jumper to the fuel pump and it starts and runs fine. I have electricity going through the fuel relay. Is there someithing I need to reset? Is there some sensors between the fuel relay and the fuel pump?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Stepping way out of my league here, because I don't have any electrical schematics for your vehicle. You're either going to find someone who works on those vehicles and has seen that problem before and knows off the top of their head exactly what to do.....or you'll have to invest in a set of electrical schematics to diagnose it directly.

    There's a couple thoughts come to mind though. I have seen in a number of vehicles where the fuel pump is controlled (turned on or off) by the engine computer. Since you replaced your battery, I'm wondering if somehow you lost the brains to the computer and you need the dealership to reload/reprogram it. The thing that leaves me a little suspicious that his couldn't be the case however, is your statement that the vehicle will run if you provide power to the fuel pump. I guess if it runs poorly this still might be the problem, but if it runs fine then it probably is not the problem.

    The second thing that comes to mind is that many vehicles have a relay which turns the fuel pump off if the car has been in an accident or rolls over, to prevent a fuel leak from a broken gas line with the electric fuel pump just pumping away. I know all of my vehicles have this feature in one way or the other (some by circuitry in the engine computer, others with a standalone function board), but they are newer than a 98 so I don't know when mfg's started putting this in vehicles. Owners manuals usually will have a writeup which explains how to reset this, if the relay is triggered. Perhaps if your vehicle has this function as well, that somehow the battery reset triggered this to occur.

    The last thing that comes to mind is to check ALL of the other fuses with an ohmmeter, to make sure there isn't some other fuse that blew while the battery was being jumped or replaced.

    Sorry I can't help you with any specific Grand Prix info.
  • iykeiyke Member Posts: 2
    My 2005 Honda accord has done 56k miles, for some time the check engine light has been constantly and the Maintenance required signal flashes and goes off each time I start the car. Also, I persive a smell like gas any time I accelerates fast on the highway. please what are my likely problems and how do I solve it?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Incredible,

    Hope you don't smoke. Did you ever think that a gasoline smell could be gasoline fumes, or unburned gasoline?

    Try taking your car to the dealership, or a competent garage who work on Honda's. They will check the engine computer and read the error codes. That will give them an idea of what to fix. You may have ruined your catalytic converter because you didn't get it fixed when the error light first came on.
  • iykeiyke Member Posts: 2
    I forgot to say that I did servicing two weeks ago still these problems persists. I need help as there is no Honda dealer near me now.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    What error codes were in the computer when the mechanic pulled the codes?

    Don't know where you live that there isn't a Honda dealership, but worst case there are certainly mechanic / auto vehicle repair shops that work on Honda's.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    The CEL would go on for several miles and then go off. When it was last ON, I parked the car for the night. Next morning, no CEL. We drove around the Bay area just fine except for having to buy a new tire in Dublin. Heading North out of CA, the CEL would go on for a few miles and then stay off for the rest of the trip.

    It has been said, when the CEL goes on, it reflects a problem with the emission system so now I don't give it any importance.
  • slogan5slogan5 Member Posts: 2
    I just had a tune up and fuel injection cleaning done at Precision Auto. Now the engine light comes on and it had never come on before I had the tune up. The mechanic checked the codes which read (misfire ??), but he said that it was a false reading, that it was because of the fuel injection cleaning that was done. He said that the light would go out on its own. It has been a month now, how long should this take and is this normal?
  • tony12345tony12345 Member Posts: 9
    slogan5, 09/30/2009

    First of all, you have to say the year, make, model, engine size, and mileage so that people can get an idea of the type of car we are dealing with. Second, fuel injection cleaning is a waste of money. The best thing to clean your fuel injectors is to go down to your local auto parts store [Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Napa, etc..] and buy yourself a bottle of a STP Fuel Injector cleaner. Do this once or twice a year.

    Third, why did you do a tune-up? And what parts were changed? I am willing to bet that the mechanic that sold you the "fuel injection cleaning" ruined your O2 sensor [also known as an oxygen sensor]. I can also tell you that you "may" have needed a tune-up [the key word is may] and you did "not need" the fuel injection cleaning service. I will try to help you if you want. You can e-mail me with as much info as you can.

    Don't take your car back to the shop or mechanic that did your fuel injection cleaning. Take your car down to Pep Boys or AutoZone and they wil connect a special scanner to your car for free. They will tell you the code number and which part is bad. The special scanner is also known as a "code reader". Also if you want you can buy one of these code readers for about $70-90. You can buy the cheapest one, you do not need the most expense one. The code readers can be used on both imports and domestic cars from 1995-2005. :shades:
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    Not guaranteed, but it has worked for me.

    Disconnect the Negative battery cable from the battery and reconnect it the next morning. This has been known, on some cars, to reset the computer.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Take it back, where you had it tuned.

    There is an algorithm in the cars computer, which will continue to track all of the sensors, and after so many starts and miles driven without any error conditions it will turn the light off. A month should have been plenty of time to reset itself.
  • slogan5slogan5 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Izusu Rodeo Sport, it has approximately 32000 miles on it. It was kind of slow to start, not really running smoothly, so I took it in for a tune up. They did a fuel injection cleaning, put new plugs in. Initially, when I brought it in the engine light was not on, right after they finished with it, the engine light came on. I have brought it back three times and was told that it was because the computer was reading the fumes, gunk ???? whatever had not fully cleared out and once I drove it around for at least 100 miles or so, the engine light would automatically go out. I have done that and it is still on. I was told that it was just a false reading (I believe it was a misfire code that came up). I am getting really frustrated....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well tell them to turn the light off at their expense and see what happens. It only takes them a few minutes. See if you can get a code # for us.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    They need to read, and then clear, the error codes. They may not have fixed the original problem, but did a couple obvious first steps to see if they could have an impact.

    If the error doesn't clear, it can stop you from passing inspection if that is one of your state requirements.

    Take it back now. If you wait much longer they will treat it as a 'new' problem, and charge you for diagnosis time.
  • rcrossrcross Member Posts: 2
    O2 sensor replaced by Honda dealer. "CE" came bak on. Independent mechanic replaced bosch plugs with NGK. I checked. They are correct type. "CE" came back on. Engine misses at idle. The code indicated catalytic converter. Still a third mechanic replaced the plug wires which made it run like new except for the stumbling idle and now "CE" back on (probably for the cat converter again).
    Will get code checked soon. Have you seen this before? Thank you.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I've certainly seen hundreds of 02 sensors replaced needlessly because the "mechanic" doesn't test the old one for the voltage value range.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    I'm betting the code was something to do with catalytic converter efficiency? If so, that's sort of an indirect measure of the cat in that the algorithm compares the outputs of the front O2 sensor(s), which are in front of the cat, to the output of the rear O2 sensor, behind the cat. So, the problem could be with the other O2 sensor, the one that maybe wasn't replaced.

    Though, misses at idle may mean the engine is dumping unburnt fuel into the exhaust, and hence into the cat. I think that can kill a cat pretty quickly.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    the CEL goes off and on while at highway speeds. It is a '94 Town Car, 145000 miles and runs great otherwise. What could be causing this?
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Take it to someone to check. Impossible to remotely diagnose that problem over the internet with that listed as the only symptom.
  • industmechindustmech Member Posts: 3
    I have worked 2 weekends on my fathers TC. It would throttle back the engine after getting above 35 mph. We tried everything, fuel pump, O2 sensors, MAF sensor, etc. I was considering changing the computer. Then on a test drive I realized, the traction assist light was on when the car acted up. I pulled the fuse for the ABS and the car ran fine. I cleared the error and got another, U1036, "Undefined wheel size", my father had recently changed just the front tires. I found out that to save money, he changed the wheels from 16 to 15 inch. The ABS was detecting this difference and interpreting it as wheel slippage and trying to help. If you have the P174 or the U1036, beware, the tires or wheels might be the wrong size.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Member Posts: 3,425
    What year is the TC and is it equipped with "Handling Package"?
  • industmechindustmech Member Posts: 3
    99, sig series. I'm not susre about the "handling package" It has most of the butons.
  • brownbootbrownboot Member Posts: 3
    2001 Ford Taurus check eng light on with a DTC P0402.This happens about every 2.5 years and I replace the Backpressure sensor and that will take care of it. Is this normal on this year? We brought it new and now has 58,000 + miles (wife car) I have had 2 other Taurus a 1996 with over 200,000 miles and a 2003 with 170,000 miles and have never replace that part. Purchase the part at Advance Auto Parts should I get Ford parts?
  • sunny46sunny46 Member Posts: 6
    edited November 2011
    p0171 p0174 what causes it and what do i look 4 2002 ford f150 sorry
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    This is an EGR system fault.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    EGR valve or EGR solenoid vacuum leak or stuck valve in the secondary air injection system.
  • sunny46sunny46 Member Posts: 6
    po446 po1345just changed the distributor now slight miss and a pop around 55 through intake as far as i can tell 2000 chevy blazer s10 4x4
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    timing issue or crossed wires.

    As you look at the engine, the cylinders are:

    6 5
    4 3
    2 1

    # 1 cylinder on the distributor cap is the middle one on the right side of the cap.

    Firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2
  • showtime19showtime19 Member Posts: 1
    THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYS ON CONSTANT AND ALSO SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT. DO I NEED TO REPLACE THE VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR TO RID THIS PROBLEM ? I NEED TO PASS SMOG CHECK.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    First thing is to get the OBD-II codes read, see what is causing the CEL to come on.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    A reporter is looking to hear from consumers who own a "code reader" - either an app or an appliance that allows the user to tap into his/her car's diagnostic system to understand why the Check Engine light etc is on, and perhaps shut it off. If you have used one of these apps or systems and are willing to share your story with a reporter, please email PR@edmunds.com no later than Monday, March 5, 2012 with your daytime contact information.
  • john1213john1213 Member Posts: 1
    Check engine light and gas cap. I have repeatedly had the problem. After an expensive diagnostic test I bought the recommended new gas cap. The problem continued! My discovery is that the filler spout to the gas tank is out of round and will not seal properly. To determine if yours is not round it should be checked with a dial indicator as it is not detectable by the naked eye. I have contacted American Honda and have a case #, but they need more evidence to determine if this should constitute a recall item.
  • whiteshieldwhiteshield Member Posts: 1
    dont know if this is right place but i need help. my malibu was down for 5 days..head gaskets replaced by GM dealer. well one hr into the drive hom check engine light came on...n started jumping...stalled out at a red light started n kept trying to stall when it would get lcose to 25 mph. called the dealer he said he wood send someone out to see it..well it was the same KID who supposedly repaired the gaskets. was told its a MAP sensor...drove it back to dealer waited 1 hr replaced the sensor n 1 hr later same thing. by this time dealer was closed. went to where i purches the car n their free diagnostic said MAP sensor...that technician unplugged n plugged it back in. ran good for 20 mins n then same thing died out...n the low eng power kight came on n the car shut it self off n the middle of the street...made it home. called the dealer left a message they cant do anything until monday...im so pissed...what happened to my car.
    2008 chevy malibu LS with 78000 miles 3.5L V6 engine...any advice
  • sparkynutsparkynut Member Posts: 2
    2002 Suburban 5.3 L 2WD 1/2 ton 1500 LS

    Smog shop said O2 sensors ok and to replace the left and right Cat's which I did but now The codes have reappeared the next day

    PLEASE HELP....!
  • jerzeejojerzeejo Member Posts: 5
    Car drove well this morning until I had to stop for a light. The check engine light comes on once in a while - after gas fillup, but this morning it started to blink and the car started to shake when I applied the brakes - like it wanted to stall. Once I started driving again, the light stopped blinking, but stayed on.

    Any ideas? Got me to work, but it's a 20 mile drive back home.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    A loose or leaking gas cap would cause the CEL to come on, and that would fit with the fact it comes on sometimes after filling up. But, I don't think that would cause a driveability problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    A blinking light is more serious than a steady one. Sounds like some kind of misfire is overheating the catalytic converter. Just keep an eye on that light and you should be okay for 20 miles. Keep your speed down and if there's a way home without hills, do that.
  • selaerationselaeration Member Posts: 1
    Check engine light came on 42k miles, code was bank one sensor 1 heater circuit. Replaced o2 sensor, same code. replaced o2 sensor again same code. mechanic said bad wire was the culprit and replaced a wire and fuse box. same light and same code remained. Took to dealer and they said I needed a new engine wiring harness and the cost was $1050.00 They reset the computer but the same code remains. I am not sure what to do next. :(
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well the first thing would be to get to a good mechanic. :P Obviously these guys don't know what they're doing.

    Are you by any chance in the San Francisco area? I could send you somewhere.

    Do you remember the number of the code you read? Just because the code refers to the 02 sensor that doesn't mean the 02 sensor is bad--it only means the 02 sensor is reacting to some irregularity--you could for instance have a catalytic converter problem or a wiring problem.
  • svarnadosvarnado Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I have this p0732 code. just recently got the oil pan and seal replaced due to severel leak. How can I clear this code?
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Transmission fluid, level or dirty, (if you're lucky).

    Something more serious with the transmission if you're not.
  • pedalbrake37pedalbrake37 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid...haven't had any major problems with it until the last 6 months or so. Every now & then a warning light would display indicating a fault with the hybrid drive system. It was intermittent, and since the closest hybrid-certified dealer is 45 minutes away, I didn't immediately take it in (since the light was intermittent & there was no noticeable affect on the vehicle function).

    A couple months ago, I was travelling & the hybrid drive warning light came on - I would be passing by the dealer, so I called to see if I could stop in & have them read the code. They read it & said that it was a possible problem with the CVT drive, but since it was intermittent, wondered if it was just a sensor problem. They already had two other FEH's in the shop waiting on parts, so they didn't want to schedule anything immediately.

    Fast forward to mid-January. The hybrid drive warning light had intermittently come on & gone off for the last couple months, but this time, while I was driving (city stop & go) around town, the hybrid drive warning light came on, shortly followed by an alternating complete loss of power to a surge in acceleration. I tried to hobble the vehicle back to my office (this is a work vehicle), and the "Master Vehicle Electrical Hazard Warning" light came on, followed by my vehicle completely shutting down.

    The vehicle was towed to the dealer, they checked the codes & replaced the throttle body & reprogrammed the PCM; called me & told me it was ready to pick up. I arranged for a ride down & before I left the parking lot, it was doing THE EXACT SAME THING! Now the dealer is telling me that they need to replace the Shifter Lever Assembly, based on the "new" trouble code (which they charged me $75 for).

    The dealer claims that the only code they initially found (when it was towed to them) was one indicating the throttle body problem. They claim no other codes were present. Now the code is for the shift lever assembly. Same symptoms, two completely different root causes?

    On to the question: How long does computer hold error codes? I have a hard time believing that they didn't pick up the "old" CVT error code when they were initially assessing the code that led them to replacing the throttle body. I have expressed my extreme dissatisfaction with the service manager, but he stands by his claim that: "the only code present was the throttle body code". Am I being screwed?

    Thanks!
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,745
    On to the question: How long does computer hold error codes?

    That "depends" on what code is setting, and the frequency of the failure events can play a role. Most codes will self clear from the long term memory after fifty re-starts if the problem doesn't occur again. Some codes never clear until they are commanded to. The real fun starts when some tests that would generate another code are blocked from running because of a code already in the system memory.

    I have a hard time believing that they didn't pick up the "old" CVT error code when they were initially assessing the code that led them to replacing the throttle body

    While it may not seem likely at first, another possible explanation explanation may have to do with the re-flash. There could be a criteria change for the shifter code generation and that may have gotten it to set easier. The throttle body problem is a common issue and yes, the car acts exactly as you described. Then again with the random failure, the code for the shifter may have self cleared.

    I have expressed my extreme dissatisfaction with the service manager, but he stands by his claim that: "the only code present was the throttle body code". Am I being screwed

    Probably not, but by now the tech is. When we diagnose a vehicle and the data and trouble codes only reveal one problem,( in this case the throttle body). And then for the period of time that the tech has the car, it gives him/her no other symptoms, what would any reasonable person do? Why they would fix what they found wrong, and STOP. Imagine the tech saying something like "The shifters cause a similar symptom, so I should just replace it right now too."

    It's a pretty safe bet you'd be thinking that would be a rip-off, right?

    When I work with any of these cars, I pull all of the codes from every computer on the car with the push of a single button. Then I open paint and paste the screen shot and store it in a folder under the customers name. While not every tech does this, I do it because these kinds of questions have arisen in the past, and when I can pull the screen shot up I have proof of exactly what was there when I started.

    I often talk about consumers having a car that has a problem, but its not real bad so they keep driving it. Then a second problem occurs and it still isn't bad enough to get them to fix it. And then there is a third, and a fourth etc until one day when the car is so bad that they don't have a choice so they finally bring the car into a shop. The question now becomes, which problem is the one that got the car into the shop? How likely is the customer to be satisfied with the repair attempt if all of the problems are not found and solved? (in some cases, the customer doesn't even want all of the problems solved, that usually ends badly too when they come back with it still doing "the same thing") There are many times that the tech has to cut down some of the trees to see the forest.
  • yourmechanicyourmechanic Member Posts: 17
    It could be that your car has multiple problems and the mechanic was only able to diagnose (codes provided) and fix few of the issues. Check light will turn off. After awhile, your computer will recheck the car again, then the light will turn back on.

    The computer is constantly rechecking the car.
  • jprocjproc Member Posts: 135
    For the past month or so my check engine light will come on and in a few days go off.Then in a week or so come on again etc.
    This has happened 3-4 times now.Has this happened to anyone else and I am guessing that it is not as significant as a constantly on check engine light.
    This is for an 2000 Sienna XLE.Anyone have any experience or thoughts on this?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'm going to take a guess here that you may have an intermittent misfire which only occurs under certain load/speed conditions.

    It would be interesting for you to log when the light goes on--that is, what are you and your car doing at the time?

    Probably you'd want to have the computer scanned anyway---if this is a misfire, it's going to get worse over time I'd guess.
  • thompson42thompson42 Member Posts: 1
    Has anyone had a problem with a 99 Rodeo 6cyl. My daughter drove it to school, then it wouldn't start, tried to jump it, absolutely no power. I replace the Battery, all the bells and whistle turned on, as soon as I tried to start the vehicle I lost everything and the Vehicle had no power. I mean nothing, even with a new battery.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Couple of possibilities:

    Bad battery right off the shelf (not charged up)

    Shift lever not actually in Park or Neutral

    Neutral safety switch is defective (switch that prevents a car from starting in Drive)

    Bad battery cables, from positive to starter motor, or negative to ground

    Bad starter motor or starter motor relay
  • wingrootwingroot Member Posts: 43
    Just had a call from my Chevy dealer that I can come in and order a 2014 Nox. Any other info. on this topic?
  • jprocjproc Member Posts: 135
    As a follow up to my recent post-last 3 times I got gas the next day the check engine light came on stayed on for 2-3 days went out and came back on next fill up etc. Assuming I am tightening the gas cap tight enough any ideas on what the devil I going on?
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