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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • automan227automan227 Member Posts: 118
    After much car shopping and deciding what vehicles to look at, I had narrowed down my search to a 2000 (or newer) Passat GLX or a 2001 (or newer) Taurus SEL. The passat is obviously more expensive (by about $5k in some cases with the 4Motion), however I am finding that dealers are very unwilling to negotiate so I looked at an SEL and was pleasantly surprised.

    In some respects, the SEL felt a lot more solid then the Passat (and more powerful) even though fit and finish were not really up to par with the passat. I have located two '01 Black SEL's with between 32000 and 36000 miles on it. They are both Quality Check Certified (what does that mean anyway?). One they are asking $10,600 and the other is asking $11,900. What is a fair price to offer at both dealers for these vehicles (I am in the philly area)?

    I hav heard that the Duratec Engine is basically Rock solid for many people, is that true? Also, does anyone have any opinions on the Mach Sound system?

    Finally, this car will be a Third car for us, so for a car like this i'd really rather not spend more then $12k.

    Thanks for your help.

    AS
  • fdthirdfdthird Member Posts: 352
    My wife drives a 2001 SEL that we've had for 3 years this month. She's got about 34,000 miles on it and loves the car. Its got buckets and floor shift, leather seats, Mach sound and sun roof. We find the car very comfortable and a good driving car. Lots of useful room too with a big trunk. She's got nothing but good things to say about the car and it has been very reliable.
  • snowmansnowman Member Posts: 540
    It is well possible that control arm bushing might be the problem. I believe there is a TSB for that. It is cheap thing to replace, labor and part.
    For your milage, has it been always like that. If recently started, then check your TB and air filter. I would look into TB first clean it with TB cleaner.
    For your rpm issue, you might want to look at IAC module (idle air control) right above TBody. It has tendecy to gunk up by carbon deposits and cause irractic idle.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    I developed clunking in my 2000 Taurus SES front suspension just before warranty ran out-same symptoms as yours. The dealer service shop diagnosed it quickly as the sway bar links. They fixed it and I was on my way in less than an hour. My guess that is your problem. It is not that expensive a fix even after warranty. Too bad you have had a lot of parts swapped that were not necessary and did not fix the problem.
  • snowmansnowman Member Posts: 540
    I am sure gen4 Taurus owners have this problem that during winter time weird squeaks come from steering column like plastic components rub each other. Sound goes away once cabin temperature rises or it diminishes.
    One Taurus enthusiastic in different forum (I can't name the forum here, Edmund's doesn't like competition) found the solution for this.

    I just performed it on my car, very easy and cheap.

    You need either WD40 or Silicone grease (the one to lubricate caliper slider pins). Follow the steering column and you see it goes into firewall right above the gas pedal. The connected area is covered by rubber boot. Apply WD40 or silicone grease into rubber boot as much as you can, area is very tight and you might use q-tips or screwdriver to smear the grease. While you do it, turn the engine on and start turning the steering, this way grease goes into deep.
    You need to play with the steering like 20 minutes to allow grease reach deeper.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    As far as the clunking goes, it can be anything in that darn Taurus front suspension. Control arm bushings are another strong possibility. You'll find it eventually, it just takes persistence.
    As far as the fuel economy and high idle, I would suspect they're related. It could be an IAC motor, also could be an intake gasket leak. I say gasket leak because that is a problem that will manifest istelf when cold as you mentioned, once the car warms up, the engine parts expand and the gasket seals. But only a mechanic will tell you for sure; you'll need to take it to a dealer or a trusted shop familiar with late-model engine controls. First order of business will be to check for any stored intermittent engine codes, then test drive and see if he can determine the source of your high-idle problem. Whatever you do, don't throw parts at it. Good luck.
  • amigo_johnamigo_john Member Posts: 107
    I have a friend who has a 97 Taurus that runs just fine except for one thing: when you shift into reverse or drive the power windows, radio and power steering all go out. They will come back on after 10 minutes or so. He has already replaced the ignition switch but it didn't help. Anyone ever experience anything like this?
  • automan227automan227 Member Posts: 118
    I just purchased a 2001 Taurus SEL and I am picking it up on friday afternoon. When negotiating the deal, I did not negotiate in a PremiumCare (above and beyond the quality checked warranty) warranty, and they are asking $900 for it now. Would it have been smarter to negotiate it into the price, or is that sort of thing non-negotiable regardless? I mean I am sure the dealer won't move on that price now, so do you have any suggestions or am I just going to have to bite the bullet?

    Thanks,

    AS
  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    The way I understand your situation is that if the deal is already done which means if you put any money down and signed on the dotted line then you may not have any recourse. On the other hand, you're going Friday to close the deal then you can negotiate this PremiumCare warranty.
  • automan227automan227 Member Posts: 118
    I already have signed on the dotted line so to speak, but I did not put down a deposit (dealer said it was unnecessary). How much do people usually get off by negotiating the price?

    Thanks,

    AS
  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    I don't want to go in circles, but if the dealer told you that it's not necessary to put down a deposit then what they made you sign may be a binding contract or so they think.

    I would speak to the manager and negotiate or renegotiate the price of the car with the warranty built in -but discounted. If you really set your sights on this car and the dealer wants to get rid of it then there is room for renegotiation. If you have a copy of the agreement (that's probably what it is and not a binding contract) you may want to go over again.

    I've seen adds from dealers selling pre-owned Tauri and giving some extended warranties. I have a warranty from my insurance company which it was offered to me immediately after I purchased my car back in 2000. It has a $250 deductible. How many miles does the car in question have? How much are you willing to pay for the warranty? Would you be happy paying $750, $600$. The dealer may give you a break and knock off only a hundred bucks. You need to be prepared when you go back to the dealership.

    If you don't get anywhere with the dealer, call your insurer and find out. That's the best I can tell you. Good luck and let us know.
  • automan227automan227 Member Posts: 118
    the car has 33000 miles, with the 35k mile service included. It is also has the Quality Checked Warranty to 75,000 miles for 3 or 4 more years with a $100 deductible.

    I will see what I can do. Its not the worst thing in the world because the dealer knocked almost $2k off the price of the car, and threw in the 35k service, a spoiler, and they are taking care of a couple scratches.

    Either way, I am thrilled with the deal I got, regardless of whether or not I can negotiate the price down.

    I am picking up the car tomorrow afternoon, and the will have to take it back next week to have the spoiler installed.

    Thanks for all the help, and I will give you my impressions when I pick the car up.

    AS
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    If you already have an extended warranty with the "Quality Checked warranty" why buy more? I imagine that is only a power train warranty, but in my opinion you are covered fine as is. Save the $900 for future repairs that may not even occur, and you will be far ahead in my opinion. I have never bought an extended car warranty, and would never have come out monetarily ahead if I did have one.

    I would be more concerned that the dealer did the 30K miles transmission fluid change than any warranty you might buy. Make sure they did that, and if they did not, have them do it. A 35K service is likely just one oil change, which is an insignificant expense anyways.
  • automan227automan227 Member Posts: 118
    Yes I made sure that the 30k service and transmission fluid change was done. The car is in tip top shape.

    The reason why I am considering the PremiumCare Warranty, is because the deductible is lower.

    Thanks,

    AS
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    If you pay $900 for an additional warranty just to cut your deductible payment, that is fiscally unsound. Suppose you saved the full $100 per warranty claim. You would have to have 9 warranty visits to cover that cost, and then you are assuming each warranty visit is $100 each or more. Is this likely? NO. Skip the additional warranty, these Tauri are pretty solid cars.

    Even at $500 the cost of the additional warranty is a waste.
  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    Oh, so they're giving you a warranty. From 33K to 75K + 2000 off the price. Also, if it's a 2001, when does the bumper to bumper warranty expire (what month?).

    The PremiumCare warranty seems kind of high especially when you're already covered. I agree with badgerfan.

    So you have only one thing left to take care of: Enjoy the car!
  • automan227automan227 Member Posts: 118
    I have no idea when the bumper to bumper expires, but the inservice date was January of '01, so if I did the math correctly I just missed it.

    My reasonsing besides just downing the deductible, was also that it covers the SRS module in the car, which I have had go bad before in Volvo's and other such thing, and that would have been a $2k expense had it not been covered under warranty.

    I'll decide before I go to the dealer. Thanks for the help.

    AS
  • 307web307web Member Posts: 1,033
    When driving a 2002 Taurus with Vulcan engine I notice that the transmission often bangs into gear if I make a quick stop (such as at a very short red light or a stop sign) while on an incline.
    After I accelerate, I feel and hear a jolt. The first times I felt it, I thought one of the front tires had hit a rock or other object in the road.
    It doesn't happen at every intersection. Only at certain locations. The only thing I noticed in common with these locations is that they are on an incline. I haven't noticed the problem on level ground, so I wonder if the dealer will be able to duplicate the problem if I have them check it out.
    What causes this? Is it a design flaw in all Tauruses, or a defect in this car that needs to be fixed under warranty?
  • dcap63dcap63 Member Posts: 7
    Anyone else getting poor gas mileage out of a 2000 SES with the duratech? I drive a mix of city and highway, but still am getting only around 15 to 16 MPG. The car has 34,000 miles. Oil is changed regularly at 3,000. Tire presure is kept at 32-33PSI. Air filter is relatively clean. The car runs great in every other respect. Am I missing something here? I read in an old post that someone was getting 28MPG on the highway. I can't see how that is. Any suggestions?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    I posted a while back on mileage, and I can get 28-30 on pure highway mileage running 65-72MPH. I also have 2000 SES Duratech. Your 15-16 sounds low for mix of city/highway, but is highly dependent on your driving style and how much of your city driving is really congested. If you are measuring it in winter in cold conditions, it will be worse than summer.
  • ndfarndfar Member Posts: 19
    My 1999 Taurus blew its transmission last Friday. Had it towed to the dealer and metal pieces were found in pan. Had to wait to get a hold of the warranty company on Monday. They wanted to send out a inspector. He came on Tuesday. The warranty company said they will provide the transmission and pay about $20 per hour less than the going shop rate plus the transmission oil is my cost. The car has 45,000 miles and my warranty is zero deductible. What a junk warranty! Instead of letting the dealership get the tranny and my car back by Thursday it going to be Saturday or next Monday. What a pain and I will update you next week.
  • snowmansnowman Member Posts: 540
    Check your TB (throttle body) plate to see whether it requires adjustment. Your car might be sucking up more air then it should while idling which increases idle speed and consumes more fuel.

    And @ what RPM your car idles? MIne is around 600-700 and my milage is 21.4 in city. You should be getting 18-19 in city with Duratec.
  • 307web307web Member Posts: 1,033
    I would expect them to cover the entire cost if I had a $0 deductable warranty, however even if it takes 5 hours labor, a new transmission is costing you $100 plus the cost of tranny fluid. So, it could be worse.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    A hesitation and sudden jerk when pulling away from a stop on an incline is unfortunately a normal quirk of the Taurus transmission. You'll notice it gets worse when the A/C is on.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I assume your talking about an "aftermarket" warranty. If you read the warranty I'm sure you will find a limit to the covered labor rate, and that fluids are not covered. That's more or less standard in the industry. Manufacturer's warranties don't have this type of exclusion, of course.
    On the bright side, without the warranty it would cost you much more.
  • ohio7ohio7 Member Posts: 67
    I, too, can still get 29-30 mpg on strictly highway driving on my 2000 SEL. I still only have 21,000 miles on it and it will be 4 the end of June. I'm killing exhaust parts by my 3 mile drive to the commuter lot twice a day. Every 2-3 weeks I take it on a stretch of road that I can do 60 on for about 14 miles.

    Haven't tested my in-city mileage in a while but I was getting about 18-20 depending on if the A/C was on. This was about 2-3 years ago. Since I drive so little it's not a concern of mine.
  • ndfarndfar Member Posts: 19
    Just got a call from the shop, car is done. My cost is $533.50 minus $75 I have to wait for reimbursement for car rental. The warranty company (Platinum Warranty Corporation)got a tranny and its suppose to have a 5 yr warranty on it but the dealer stated that it looked like a used transmission because the gasket didn't look new and there was a note in the box to change them and filter (my cost plus oil). So if this is a used tranny how many miles are on it? If it goes again sounds like another $500.
    Well good luck on your decisions on extended warranties.
  • 307web307web Member Posts: 1,033
    The warranty sounds crappy if fluids and the difference in hourly rate still added up to over $500 and you still got a used transmission.
    Is the original cost of the warranty, plus your $533.50 out of pocket cost much less than you could have got a used transmission installed for without an extended warranty?
  • tvay1tvay1 Member Posts: 2
    Hey, does anyone know where the door "open" switches and the electronic module for door switches are located? I have a intermittent problem with one of them and it's keeps the lights on...
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    This has been covered in this discussion before. Check post 713, or for more type in the word switch in the search box.
  • garthmangarthman Member Posts: 42
    I experience the same odor inside the passenger area as well. Only occurs when it is a warm day and more noticeable with the A/C on or the engine is running for about 30 minutes at this warm outside temp.

    Has anyone has this fixed? I read there was a TSB on some sort of vapor valve near the fuel tank, but no details given. Let me know.
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    Hi all, it's been a while since I've posted here, mainly because I've been awfully busy and my 2000 SE Taurus has been working fine. However today I had to run someone to the airport (I rarely get on the highway anymore, normally max out at 45 mph on my 5 mile commute to work). The car would not kick into overdrive, I was doing 75-80 at about 4000-4200 rpm. You could just feel that the engine/transmission was working way too hard. I stopped at my local oil change shop - where I'd just had all the fluids topped off a few days ago - and they checked the trans. They said there was a very small leak at the pan but nothing major, fluid was at it's "Full" level. However they (and I) noticed that there was a slight 'burning' transmission smell.

    Does anyone have any thoughts on this problem? My Taurus has 110,000 miles on it and has generally performed very well. For the 3 years of it's life I mainly kept it on the highway, the last year has been local roads. I have routine maintenance performed as recommended.

    If it's going to require a full trans. replacement does anyone know what that costs from an independent shop? I have no idea but I'm guessing $2k? My Taurus is paid for. If it would require a full trans. replacement I wonder if I'm not better off just trading it in now (it runs fine until you get to 50-60, then you notice the lack of overdrive; i.e. the dealership wouldn't notice most likely). Or should I repair the trans. and drive it into the ground?

    Thanks,
    Rob
  • danielj6danielj6 Member Posts: 285
    I'd trade it now before the leak gets any bigger. You got 110K miles out of it, it's good. Not worth the $2000 for a new transmission if that's how much it's going to cost to replace it.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    I would take it to a good independent transmission shop before doing anything rash. It could be something simple like a stuck solenoid valve or failed valve actuator. Since you can still get there and back with the car, you have the option of getting a couple of opinions and estimates as well.

    Just because a transmission acts up doesn't necessarily mean it is shot, especially now that electronics and electromechanical actuators are controlling your transmission. Rash decisions may mean more expense, and remember, it is almost always less expensive to repair a car than buy new.
  • strokeoluckstrokeoluck Member Posts: 99
    I'm going to drop it off at a good transmission shop this Thursday, hope to know more by Friday. As much as I'd like a new car I would have a hard time parting with a Taurus that is really in "like-new" condition inside and out - aside from whatever glitch is occurring now.

    Go Baders!

    - Rob
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Yep, Go Badgers. I definitely have an attack of March Madness afflicting me!

    Let us know how your transmission issues are resolved.
  • iexplore2000iexplore2000 Member Posts: 237
    Hello Everyone,

     ** First off, I apologize in advance for posting this message accross two forums, but I promise that this will be my first and LAST double-posted message.. I just need as much input as possible! :-) **

    I am new to this forum and wanted to post a message to you all for your feedback concerning the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable.

    I purchased a fully loaded 2004 Ford Taurus SEL (with TCS, Mach, Home Link, etc.) back in January primarily to use as a work commuter vehicle. I chose the Merlot exterior with the two-tone parchment leather interior. My other vehicle is a 2003 GMC Envoy XL V-8, so the Taurus helps me save on fuel costs as well. I really like the Taurus because it's very roomy, has a nice look and seems to be ranked fairly high in terms of occupant safety. I looked at some other major competitors to the Taurus, but decided on the Ford based on the incentives and rebates that were available.

    As with the good things, come the bad things. There are several items on my Taurus that kind of bother me, but not the the point where it deteriorates my ownership experience.

    #1: Sound insulation? I honestly think that either my vehicle left the factory without any sound insulation materials at all OR this is just the nature of the beast? I specifically notice a lot of road noise, especially from the back seat area of the vehicle? It's not that quiet at all. I can really tell the difference when I drive my Envoy as compared to the Taurus, because the Ford is considerably noisier. On my first day of ownership, I checked the windows and sunroof several times because I swore that something had to be open for the vehicle to have that much wind noise? Could a lot of the noise stem from the Continental brand tires? If so, I will yank them and put on something else.

    #2: Sunroof? I think that my sunroof may need adjusting due to the tremendous amount of wind noise that emanates from it while it's closed? Once on the freeway running approximately 80 mph, a cross-wind struck and it felt as if it were gonna rip off the sunroof? I felt (and heard) a big gush of wind come through it? Even when I go through the touchless car washes, the dryer cycle really gets the best of me. I am usually guaranteed to get WET everytime I go through the dryer cycle. I am guessing that the dryer creates enough force to push water from the seals into the vehicle and make it sound as if it's gonna rip off the sunroof? This alarms me because my predecessors did not do this (2002 Chevy Impala LS, 2002 Grand AM GT1, etc.). I thought about purchasing a sunroof deflector in hopes of cutting down on the wind noise. Would anyone suggest a particular brand/style?

    #3: Duratec V-6? While this is a very strong engine for the Taurus, I have a wierd vibration that comes from my engine while on the freeway and accelerating? Does anyone else experience this? I can depress the accelerator 1/4 way down to pass a vehicle and I can feel this vibration either from the engine or tires.. but I am assuming it's the engine due to the fact that the vibration quits once I let off of the accelerator. Maybe this is just the nature of the engine, but I just did not think that it was that smooth? I can cruise along the freeway at 80 mph and the ride is as smooth as ever, once again allowing me to rule out any possibility of the tires. The vibration only occurs when I am accelerating. Additionally, I changed the engine oil over to Synthetic at 1K and the vibration seemed to diminish for a few days, now it's back again.

    I have approximately 1500 miles on the odometer to date and have plans on possibly addressing these concerns during my first 5k scheduled maintenance appointment. Otherwise, I think that the Taurus is a wonderful vehicle, just wish that it was a little quieter? Oh.. last but not least, I purchased the Ford remote start for the vehicle and it works like a dream! The vehicle is nice and toasty every morning!

    Any feedback that you all could provide would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks!

    IExplore20
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    I posted some comments over in the Taurus Sable Sedans board, but I have one more thought. On #3 could this vibration be your TCS kicking in during hard acceleration. I don't have TCS on my Taurus, so I don't know how TCS behaves to limit wheel slip, but does it momentarily apply brakes like ABS does? Can you turn TCS off and try the same acceleration?
  • driverberndriverbern Member Posts: 23
    I have a 2002 SEL with 116K miles on it - loaded almost like yours. This car is not the most quiet so you will have to get used to the noise. I am not certain if it is the tires since I replaced my originals with the same brand when they were worn. The sunroof should not leak. I have been thru car washes and all kinds of weather and never had a problem.
    Good luck.
  • 307web307web Member Posts: 1,033
    It should be reasonably quiet. Maybe with 116K miles, there may be some squeaks and rattles, but engine and road noise should not be bad at highway speeds.
    Replacing the factory tires with more of the same is a mistake. There are plenty of tires that are noticably quieter, last longer and provide better traction than the stock tires.
  • fdthirdfdthird Member Posts: 352
    I love the handling of the Continentals that came on my wife's 2001 SEL but with about 35,000 miles on the car I think they are wearing down a bit faster than I'd like. Who has replaced the OEM Contis with something with good handling and good wear?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    It looks like we are about to add a 1992 Mercury Sable GS (Vulcan) to our family, as my mother-in-law has decided to stop driving at age 91. This car is basically the definition of cream puff. Only 24,000 miles, garaged almost all the time in an unheated attached garage, and essentially like new condition, with excellent maintenance. We are likely to buy it from her for my son's first car. He is a responsible 21 year old college junior. I cannot see passing it up as we know the history, though he doesn't really have to have a car until perhaps a year from now

    I am contemplating replacing tires, even though I see no dry rot on the OEM's and there is a lot of tread left. Also maybe getting hoses and belts inspected and maybe replaced before turning it over to my son.
    Anything else all you Edmund's "experts" think needs doing/checking? No "off the wall" recommendations like changing brake fluid or power steering fluid, as I am of the opinion these types of non-manufacturer recommended items are not necessary.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    I don't claim to be an X-spurt, but you might want to read this before dissing accurate, factual, technical information as "off the wall". Originally written as a brake fluid comparison but containing accurate information about glycol based brake fluid:

    http://www.troublecodes.net/articles/brkfld.shtml

    P.S. Why d'ya think EVERY container of glycol brake fluid contains the warning "Keep tightly sealed to prevent moisture contamination", or words to that effect?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    While I understand the argument, it is hard for me to refute my personal experience of over 30 years of car ownership. I have never had a failure of brake components due to corroded master cylinders or calipers. Perhaps I have just been lucky, but that is my experience. I may have had brakes bled and fluid refills when I have routine brake jobs done, but this interval generally was more like 5-7 years.

    My guess is that the moisture absorbed by brake fluid is in most cases not an issue, unless you live in very humid southern states.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    But you are only a database of one, and also each car is different. On say a Porsche, not flushing fluid regularly is a deadly mistake, so.....

    Having said that, there's an easy way to settle the argument that should satisfy both sides. Look at the fluid reservoir. If it is not crystal clear like cooking oil, and has some darkening in evidence, change it right away.

    As for coolant, it has a life of only a couple of years, that's pretty certain, but again if you want to be prudent but not reckless, take out a sample and judge its purity. Old coolant looks OLD.

    And you're right, any "age-related" item like belts hoses and tires need a very close look.

    I'd also give it a good long HARD run before turning it over to a young driver.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    When we have visited her I occasionally drive it, and some is at highway speeds, so I do know that engine, brakes, steering and transmission are all working properly. Before my current Taurus Duratec, I owned a 2000 Vulcan Taurus, so I do know how that era generally behave. Vulcan engine is pretty much bullet proof. I do know Ford had some transmission issues when going to the electronic controls, I believe starting in 1991, but since this car has been babied and garaged all its life, we will take the risk.

    As far as coolant, Grandma had it changed at least every three years, so should be no problem there. I even talked her out of changing it this year, as she had done it two years and maybe 2000 miles ago.

    AC works, at least it did last summer. Anyone know if 1992's still had the old Freon?

    OK, I will at least look at the brake fluid. Doubt if I will bleed/flush it. Maybe replace what is in the master cylinder reservoir so it slowly mixes in with the fluid in the lines. This should help dilute any excess moisture. Brakes stop straight, smooth, and true.

    Thank goodness it is not a Porsche. I wouldn't want the maintenance or insurance costs. Can't imagine what the car insurance for a Porsche with a 21 year old male driver would be!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Probably more than the car!

    Actually Porsches are not high maintenance if you tend to them regularly. They just don't tolerate neglect---otherwise, they are a tough car. American and Japanese cars seem to tolerate neglect more easily.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Gotta be careful typing "Shiftright". I almost transposed the ft, and that is not a pretty name!

    I see I made an error in my last post also, as my previous Taurus was a 1990, while my current one is a 2000.

    We figure on paying Grandma about $2k for the car, based on approximate Edmunds and KBB private sale value.

    "Porsches are not high maintenance if you tend to them regularly"? Sounds pretty much like two terms for the same thing. Myabe you are defining "tending to" as planned maintenance while "high maintenance" is breakdowns?

    Anyhow, Porsche will never be in our driveway unless I have a rich relative visit that I don't know about!
  • oxx93oxx93 Member Posts: 67
    2001 SES with 29k miles--front brakes are starting to squeak badly. Any ideas? I ned to take it in but I would like to hear some advice so I know what I am talking about. Thanks
  • snowmansnowman Member Posts: 540
    There might be two reasons. Pads may be worn, this is well possible for 29K milage if you live in city or calipers are sticking causing drag on pads then overheating disk-pad and wheel. You should be able to tauch your wheels by bare hand after driving if calipers are OK.
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