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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • riswamiriswami Member Posts: 192
    97 Taurus, The Washer Fluid is barely coming out of each side, hitting the bottom of windshield. My daughter the washer fluid tank out of fluid. Do you think the pump is shot?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Try removing the hoses from the back of the nozzles and back blowing thru the nozzles with compressed air. Also check for any leakage from the hoses and plastic Y connectors. If all's ok, probably time for a pump.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    My 97 did the same thing when new, turned out the genius assembly line worker cut the hose too short and it ripped when the hood was open. Of course it sprayed right on the s-belt. So when I pushed the washer button the belt squealed. Ugh, I should have taken that as an omen...
  • cedgewater1cedgewater1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 SES with dark cloth seats. It has 3,400 miles over 4 months. I was sweeping out the back seat and noticed that the cloth on the seats under the kids cars seats is very worn with lines and fading.

     

    These are the same car seats we have been using in our 2000 MPV for the last 2+ years and 25,000 miles and no problems there. I'm going to talk to the dealer this week. Anyone else had problems with cloth seats?
  • dilbertzzzdilbertzzz Member Posts: 190
    We use a rather expensive ($15 at Babys-R-Us 6 years ago, as I recall) especially made rubber car-seat-pad for one seat, a we-got-wise rubber bath-tub mat under another, and we-got-even-wiser folded up towels under the two we're-too-lazy-to-move-car-seats-from-vehicle-to-vehicle seats in our most-recently-purchased vehicle, the Taurus. Seems like the folded towels should spread the wear enough to protect the cloth seats (though I haven't had the seats out of the Taurus since we put them in last August to tell you for sure -- and I've already confessed to a level of laziness that means I'm not going to take them out to look now either! ;-)).
  • moerodmoerod Member Posts: 7
    anyone know where to find the keypad code for an 01 sable ls premium sedan. i've looked in the truck and can't find it. any idea where it could be.

     

    thanks, moe
  • maggielbsmaggielbs Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 1999 Sable with a Duratec V6 engine with 75,000 miles on it. This car seems to be in perfect condition and I really like it. However, the Low Coolant light is lit when I drive. I have checked the coolant and it is not low. What could be the problem, or what do I need to do at this point?

    Thanks, Maggie
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    It's probably not really either. Most likely the saet fabric has been pressed flat and looks "worn" and "faded" because light is hitting the fabric strands and reflecting at a different angle. It will probably return to its normal color with time. That said, Ford does use some pretty crummy seat fabric sometimes.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    I would replace the coolant reservoir. They're only about $30 at the dealer. You get a new sensor inside and you don't have to worry about the tank cracking and leaking (they do that sometimes)
  • greg32greg32 Member Posts: 48
    My coolant level sensor went bad at 50,000 miles causing the low coolant light to come on. They replaced the small reservoir and the sensor and all is well.
  • fmilymnfmilymn Member Posts: 13
    91 Taurus Gl 3.0 130,000. Bought in 99 for a back-up vehicle.
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    155,000 and still runs like the day I bought it. Everything works too.
  • trishawtrishaw Member Posts: 1
    Thanks to this forum- I was able to save myself a ton of money by reading and finding out that all my 96 Taurus needed to get this problem solved was a little WD40 on the door latches! Thanks -- I paid 2 bucks that a repair shop wouldve charged hourly rates for!!!
  • dowilmardowilmar Member Posts: 2
    1998 Taurus s/w, 114ks, recently had left front coil spring fracture, ruined tire...while parked! recall on 1999-2001 models only, anyone with similar problem and did you have any luck with Ford? Any other agencies to contact. Apparently recall only available to Eastern Canada because of salt.
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    Ford has had this problem forever. My 1993 was recalled and a basket installed to prevent a spring failure from damaging the tire. At the time of the recall Ford would replace the springs if a problem was found. The basket is a simple bolt on repair that was a no brainer- a really simple fix for a dangerous problem. I cannot believe that Ford would not put it on all the newer Taurus models.

    Do not waste your time with Ford springs. Use after-market ones. They do not fail. Cheaper too.

    Good thing this happened to you parked and not at 75. There have been fatals as a result.

    I would write to Ford.
  • doubleddaveddoubleddaved Member Posts: 1
    I replaced the washer motor and still doesn't work.The pump is new and it works i jumped it right from the battery to check it.I checked the voltage at the connector to the washer motor and i get just about 12 volts when the washer pump is pressed on the directional signal.This is driving me crazy, any help.Thanks
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Verify continuity of the ground side of the connector, black wire to a known good ground.
  • tkfitztkfitz Member Posts: 95
    A bad ground is the most likely source of your problem. But if not you need to verify that the supply voltage is available with enough current to operate the motor. If there is a bad connection in the 12v supply the motor will not work. A voltmeter will still read the voltage as they have a high resistance and do not draw any power from the circuit. If there is a bad connection(switch,connector,wire etc....) the load of the motor can cause an open circuit. Just like a poor battery connection will run the lights but not the starter. The higher current causes the bad connection to heat up and open.

    Check the voltage at the washer motor to see if you have this problem-with the motor hooked up to run.
  • 626lx_4-ever626lx_4-ever Member Posts: 2
    On Christmas Eve, of all days, my wife's '96 Taurus sedan (V6 w/ ~140K miles) decided moving forwards was overrated -- the transmission would engage in reverse then drop out in neutral but failed to engage again (at least with any noticeable jolt) in any forward gear (D-1). (Yes, the FIRST thing I checked was the tranny fluid -- level, color and smell seemed okay.)

     

    I managed to get it to limp forward briefly by putting it in "D" and revving the engine a bit while pushing the car manually, before giving up and calling for a tow.

     

    Upon arrival at the shop, the tow-truck driver lowered the car and surprise, surprise -- it went into drive and pulled forward as nice as you please! The shop (NOT a tranny specialist but owned by a friend of a friend, who had recently done a major tune-up on the car) was unable to find anything wrong after a cursory inspection and a diagnostic they had done at a another garage also turned up nothing. The car then ran fine for a while...

     

    Well, one fine Sunday morning less than two months later, my wife tries to run an errand and wouldn't you know, the Taurus has other ideas (i.e. no forward motion)...

     

    The car is now at a transmission shop and they're telling me that it's an internal problem and I have two choices: ~$1200 repair w/ 90-day warranty; ~$1800 rebuild w/ 1 yr. / 12K mile warranty.

     

    Any advice or ideas you knowledgeable folks may offer (SOON) would be GREATLY appreciated!

     

    Thanks!
  • jhill1jhill1 Member Posts: 1
    After a recall in 1998 my 97 Taurus (60,000 miles) has had 4 Heater Core replacements if I take it tomorrow that will be # 5. How to we get more than 12 to 14 months out of a core? The one leaking now is only 5 to 6 months old.
  • tmp888tmp888 Member Posts: 20
    Did you try different dealer? Some dealer do better job fixing things than others.
  • selooseloo Member Posts: 606
    This car is known for its transmission problems. Check out this page:

    http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Reliability.aspx?modelid=1102&s- rc=vip#Tran

    Maybe it will help.
  • dilbertzzzdilbertzzz Member Posts: 190
    Wow, I'm excited to find out that the worst problems they report are sensors and that the transmission Manual Lever Position (MLP) Sensor would cost less than $100 to repair, including labor!

    Even better, the two known problems listed with the engine are also both sensors (the Delta Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) Sensor and the Camshaft Position Sensor) and that the labor-included repair cost should be less than $150 and less than $70, respectively.

    Of course, if still under warranty or on an extended warranty, the cost would be $0.

    This really is not bad, if that is the worst that can be said about these cars!
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Those MSN auto surveys are worthless. 96/97 models had major internal mechanical problems in their transmissions. Don't get your hopes up and keep the credit card handy.
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    Obviously something is being done wrong. You mention a recall, I assume it was the re-route kit to prevent electrolysis. Something may have been done incorrectly and high pressures are blowing out the cores or you still have a severe electrolysis problem. Is the coolant turning brown?
  • crankshaftcrankshaft Member Posts: 105
    you might want to check the heater hoses for proper length,fit and routing.sometimes shortened misrouted hoses cause strain on the heater core as the engine"rocks"during acceleration.
  • dilbertzzzdilbertzzz Member Posts: 190
    Actually, I have a 2003 and I was attempting (albeit with little success apparently) to be a little tongue-in-cheek (doesn't translate well into a post). The point is that the link did not support the conclusion posted that these transmissions are bad (it didn't necessarily disprove it either).

    While the internet can be a wonderful tool, it still requires not only reading with comprehension but also great discernment. Too much information found out here is distorted, flat-out wrong, and too often even malicious. Here is a open channel for excellent help and information. Unfortunately, (no insult intended to anyone, please!) it is also provides a wider distribution for gossips, chronic complainers, and Chicken-Littles.

    One other thing all the latest corporate scandals have taught us too: what we think of as ephemeral hangs around a lot longer than we think. An offhand or ill-conceived posting might just come back to haunt us much later.

    Peace, good maintenance, and happy driving to all!
  • pmejiapmejia Member Posts: 1
    Ok, I have a 97' Ford Taurus 3.0 single cam, and I have to change the engine, I have a new engine, but I can't get the old engine out. The car has been sitting outside for about a year and a half and. The engine is unbolted from the torque converter , but we can't seem to free the engine. Are we missing something, or is there something we can do to free it?
  • wkohlerwkohler Member Posts: 74
    You may be a little over our heads here with the kind of work you're trying to do. If you e-mail me I'll direct you to a site that is better prepared and able to help with what you're trying to do.
  • culbertsonculbertson Member Posts: 1
    I was working on my taurus last night trying to get the door locks to work with the remote transmitter. They will lock, but will not unlock. Anyone know what might be causing this? Also, the power windows are not working anymore nor are the interior lights. I thought maybe it was a relay in the fuse panel, but all the relays that I switch out seem to not be working if that is the problem. Any information and help would be greatly appreciated.
  • mbrennanmbrennan Member Posts: 1
    can someone give me a list of the definitions for air bags codes for a 99 taurus wgn 24 valve
    ? code 19 is flashing?
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Member Posts: 462
    Power door lock Problems:

    Well, my experience is that this problem is caused by failing door lock actuators. You'll need to replace these part(s).

    If all of the doors are failing to lock then it may be a wiring problem or the receiver.

    - Good luck
  • mashmash Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Merc Sable Wagon and NOBODY can figure this (*&^%) thing out. Is there anyone out there with suggestions? I drove it fine up until Nov and parked it. Now it will NOT start. It will turn over slightly but that is IT. I had 4 mechanics (yes 4!!!) check it. They went through every part and nothing yet. Please HELP me. I have a car payment (small one thankfully) sitting in my yard. I am running out of patience and will sell it for a dollar if I have to. thanks
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Does it crank over at normal speed with a charger or booster attached? If not, something's pooched in the starter circuit. If it spins ok but doesn't fire, what's the fuel pressure, does a noid light test on the injectors indicate that the ECM is firing them?
  • selooseloo Member Posts: 606
    What happened to your Transmission?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    I assume at least one of those four "mechanics" checked the battery to make sure it was OK? If not, they should all be fired.
  • mashmash Member Posts: 2
    The battery is BRAND NEW. In response to the above person, it turns over slowly but I will give this info to them about the ECM, etc. I will give all responses to them (except the firing one, ha!) Thank you. Someone told my brother it could be the alternator froze up, just remove the belt. Another guy told me if I need help, he has been at Ford Motor Co. for 9 years. Something WILL give. As soon as it's running, it's going to be traded for a Chevy. I have a Cavalier that is 11 years old and NEVER had a problem with this car. I'm done with Fords.
  • dowilmardowilmar Member Posts: 2
    1998 model. Had to replace engine 3.0 Duratec a year ago by the dealer and the engine is removed from the bottom, they drop the front end.
  • rpawlikrpawlik Member Posts: 1
    have a '00 taurus 6cyl,ffv, with trouble code p1413 (secondary air injection sys. mon. low input). i'm not a great tech, but need some ideas on WHERE and how to check what items to troubleshoot this THANX.
  • rcfieldsrcfields Member Posts: 2
    I've swapped a motor on the same car. I assume you found it by now, but if not I ran into the same problem. Unbolt it from the bell-housing which you did and then you will notice in the front of the motor, on the firewall side its bolted to the mount. Unbolt it from the mount and it comes right off. It really holds it in there solid I couldn't figure it at first.

    - Ryan
  • atuckeratucker Member Posts: 7
    Moe,

    I had the same problem with my '01 Premium Wagon.

    Check out the answer I got:

    >>I have a 2001 Sable LS Premium Wagon, and the owners manual had the wrong keycode in it. I lost count of how many times I looked under the dash for the code. I gave up looking a couple of months ago. I found a post yesterday, and I now have the correct code!! THANKS rprice!!

    (the code sticker for the wagon is on the "passenger side" of the fuseblock, under the dash, just to the left of the brake pedal. The sticker is affixed to the back of the block, and must be folded over to read the code. It has the five digit code, with the word "keycode" on it)<<
  • crozzmancrozzman Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 taurus with a 3.0 L that was coil packs I am replacing the engine with a motor that is a distrubuter engine, can i convert this engine(distrubuter one) to coil packs.
    what is involved with this procedure
  • wijocowijoco Member Posts: 462
    More than you can possibly imagine. You're making a mistake, it would be better to look for the correct used engine. You'll blow all your savings on changing half the electrical system.
  • pgbpgb Member Posts: 2
    Got a 98 TAURUS gL and i need to replace the front rotors, ive done it before on a a celeberty but not sure if its the same
    have any suggestions a walkthrough?
    I just want to make sure I know what im doing before i tear it apart
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Member Posts: 462
    Brake Rotor replacement:

    1) Block rear wheels and jack the front of the car up

    2) Take off front wheels

    3) Take off front brake caliper (2 bolts hold it on). You may need to compress the slave cylinder a bit to remove the rotor. A large C-clamp or giant pair of pliers will do the trick.

    4) Slide off old brake rotor. Slide new rotor back on

    5) replace brake caliper

    6) put wheels back on and lower the car. Don't overtorque the wheel bolts. That's what probably caused the rotors to warp in the first place.
  • pgbpgb Member Posts: 2
    hmmm could explain step 3 a little bit more how do I compress the slave cylinder
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Similar procedure, but the caliper anchor brackets have to be removed first. Also, Ford specifies to replace the anchor bracket bolts if removed. Just clean them off and apply a few drops of medium strength (blue) Loctite to each.

    To Remove:

    Remove brake fluid from the brake master cylinder reservoir until the reservoir is 1/2 full.
    Raise and safely support the vehicle.
    Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
    Remove the caliper locating pins and lift the caliper off the rotor using a rotating motion.
    Position the caliper aside and support it with a length of wire. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose.
    Remove the caliper anchor bracket.
    Separate the disc brake rotor from the hub assembly by pulling it off the hub studs. If additional force is required to remove the rotor, apply rust penetrate on the front and rear rotor/hub mating surfaces and then strike the rotor between the studs with a plastic hammer.

    To install:

    If the disc brake rotor is being replaced, remove the protective coating from the new rotor using areosol brake cleaner.
    Clean all corrosion fron the hub flange surface to prevent rotor runout.
    Apply a small amount of silicone dielectric compound or equivalent, to the pilot diameter of the disc brake rotor.
    Install the rotor on the hub assembly.
    Install the caliper anchor bracket.
    Position the disc brake caliper and pad assembly above the rotor and install it with a rotating motion. Make sure the inner and outer pads are properly positioned and the outer anti-rattle spring is properly positioned.

    Torque the following:
    Caliper anchor bracket bolts to 65-87 ft. lbs. (88-118 Nm)

    Retract the disc brake caliper piston fully in the piston bore, using an old brake pad or block of wood and a C-clamp or equivalent.
    Lubricate the locating pins and the inside of the insulators with silicone grease.
    Tighten the locating pins to 23-28 ft. lbs. (31-38 Nm).
    Install the wheel and tire assembly; tighten the nuts to 85-104 ft. lbs. (115-142 Nm).
    Lower the vehicle.
    Pump the brake pedal several times to position the brake pads prior to moving the vehicle.
    Road test the vehicle and check for proper brake system operation.

    You'll need brake cleaner, blue Loctite, sandpaper, and dilectric silicone grease to do the job properly.
  • nomoreford2nomoreford2 Member Posts: 50
    CAN ANY ONE TELL ME HOW TO BLEED THE DRUMS ON A 2000 TAURUS, I DONT SEE THE SCREW TO BLEED THEM.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Look again. The bleeders are just above where the brake lines attach to the wheel cylinders. And please release your CAPS LOCK key.
  • vppcvppc Member Posts: 58
    Hello, everyone!

    I have a 2001 Ford Taurus SES with 63,200 miles on with the Vulcan engine. According to a repair shop, I need a new lower driver ball joint. I have been quoted $35 for the part, $35 for the labor, and $40 to do a 4-wheel alignment = $110 OTD. Is this a good deal? I was originally quoted $129 + tax, but they will do it for the mentioned number above.

    Also, what causes a lower ball joint to go bad, and what are some conditions the driver will notice if the joint is going bad? (Such as what behaviors do the car have).

    Also, I am wanting to get a transmission drain and fill w/filter done for preventative maintenance. The MERCON V fluid is EXPENSIVE ($3-$4 a QUART), and I have been quoted anywhere from $80-$120 - what have y'all paid for this service? The transmission works wonderfully, however.

    Are there any other preventative measures I can take at this mileage? I do plan on replacing the PCV valve at 100K, based on the manual, and replacing spark plugs and wires.

    I truly am enjoying my car and love cruising in this thing. I do pizza delivery and I do encounter rough, curvy roads quite frequently - I am sure these roads can tear up a suspension - but honestly, this car has many stronger points than my 1998 Camry I had previously (which was totaled) - for example, the suspension doesn't scrape or bottom out, it rides smoother, it is more solid, more comfortable, and handles WAY better. Not to mention, the 3.0 V6 is known for going a long way! (My '92 Aerostar w/the 3.0 had 250K on it before I quit using it)

    Thanks for any information!
    - Alex

    P.S. I drove the new Ford 500 - WOW !!!
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