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These are the same car seats we have been using in our 2000 MPV for the last 2+ years and 25,000 miles and no problems there. I'm going to talk to the dealer this week. Anyone else had problems with cloth seats?
thanks, moe
Thanks, Maggie
Do not waste your time with Ford springs. Use after-market ones. They do not fail. Cheaper too.
Good thing this happened to you parked and not at 75. There have been fatals as a result.
I would write to Ford.
Check the voltage at the washer motor to see if you have this problem-with the motor hooked up to run.
I managed to get it to limp forward briefly by putting it in "D" and revving the engine a bit while pushing the car manually, before giving up and calling for a tow.
Upon arrival at the shop, the tow-truck driver lowered the car and surprise, surprise -- it went into drive and pulled forward as nice as you please! The shop (NOT a tranny specialist but owned by a friend of a friend, who had recently done a major tune-up on the car) was unable to find anything wrong after a cursory inspection and a diagnostic they had done at a another garage also turned up nothing. The car then ran fine for a while...
Well, one fine Sunday morning less than two months later, my wife tries to run an errand and wouldn't you know, the Taurus has other ideas (i.e. no forward motion)...
The car is now at a transmission shop and they're telling me that it's an internal problem and I have two choices: ~$1200 repair w/ 90-day warranty; ~$1800 rebuild w/ 1 yr. / 12K mile warranty.
Any advice or ideas you knowledgeable folks may offer (SOON) would be GREATLY appreciated!
Thanks!
http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Reliability.aspx?modelid=1102&s- rc=vip#Tran
Maybe it will help.
Even better, the two known problems listed with the engine are also both sensors (the Delta Pressure Feedback EGR (DPFE) Sensor and the Camshaft Position Sensor) and that the labor-included repair cost should be less than $150 and less than $70, respectively.
Of course, if still under warranty or on an extended warranty, the cost would be $0.
This really is not bad, if that is the worst that can be said about these cars!
While the internet can be a wonderful tool, it still requires not only reading with comprehension but also great discernment. Too much information found out here is distorted, flat-out wrong, and too often even malicious. Here is a open channel for excellent help and information. Unfortunately, (no insult intended to anyone, please!) it is also provides a wider distribution for gossips, chronic complainers, and Chicken-Littles.
One other thing all the latest corporate scandals have taught us too: what we think of as ephemeral hangs around a lot longer than we think. An offhand or ill-conceived posting might just come back to haunt us much later.
Peace, good maintenance, and happy driving to all!
? code 19 is flashing?
Well, my experience is that this problem is caused by failing door lock actuators. You'll need to replace these part(s).
If all of the doors are failing to lock then it may be a wiring problem or the receiver.
- Good luck
- Ryan
I had the same problem with my '01 Premium Wagon.
Check out the answer I got:
>>I have a 2001 Sable LS Premium Wagon, and the owners manual had the wrong keycode in it. I lost count of how many times I looked under the dash for the code. I gave up looking a couple of months ago. I found a post yesterday, and I now have the correct code!! THANKS rprice!!
(the code sticker for the wagon is on the "passenger side" of the fuseblock, under the dash, just to the left of the brake pedal. The sticker is affixed to the back of the block, and must be folded over to read the code. It has the five digit code, with the word "keycode" on it)<<
what is involved with this procedure
have any suggestions a walkthrough?
I just want to make sure I know what im doing before i tear it apart
1) Block rear wheels and jack the front of the car up
2) Take off front wheels
3) Take off front brake caliper (2 bolts hold it on). You may need to compress the slave cylinder a bit to remove the rotor. A large C-clamp or giant pair of pliers will do the trick.
4) Slide off old brake rotor. Slide new rotor back on
5) replace brake caliper
6) put wheels back on and lower the car. Don't overtorque the wheel bolts. That's what probably caused the rotors to warp in the first place.
To Remove:
Remove brake fluid from the brake master cylinder reservoir until the reservoir is 1/2 full.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the caliper locating pins and lift the caliper off the rotor using a rotating motion.
Position the caliper aside and support it with a length of wire. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose.
Remove the caliper anchor bracket.
Separate the disc brake rotor from the hub assembly by pulling it off the hub studs. If additional force is required to remove the rotor, apply rust penetrate on the front and rear rotor/hub mating surfaces and then strike the rotor between the studs with a plastic hammer.
To install:
If the disc brake rotor is being replaced, remove the protective coating from the new rotor using areosol brake cleaner.
Clean all corrosion fron the hub flange surface to prevent rotor runout.
Apply a small amount of silicone dielectric compound or equivalent, to the pilot diameter of the disc brake rotor.
Install the rotor on the hub assembly.
Install the caliper anchor bracket.
Position the disc brake caliper and pad assembly above the rotor and install it with a rotating motion. Make sure the inner and outer pads are properly positioned and the outer anti-rattle spring is properly positioned.
Torque the following:
Caliper anchor bracket bolts to 65-87 ft. lbs. (88-118 Nm)
Retract the disc brake caliper piston fully in the piston bore, using an old brake pad or block of wood and a C-clamp or equivalent.
Lubricate the locating pins and the inside of the insulators with silicone grease.
Tighten the locating pins to 23-28 ft. lbs. (31-38 Nm).
Install the wheel and tire assembly; tighten the nuts to 85-104 ft. lbs. (115-142 Nm).
Lower the vehicle.
Pump the brake pedal several times to position the brake pads prior to moving the vehicle.
Road test the vehicle and check for proper brake system operation.
You'll need brake cleaner, blue Loctite, sandpaper, and dilectric silicone grease to do the job properly.
I have a 2001 Ford Taurus SES with 63,200 miles on with the Vulcan engine. According to a repair shop, I need a new lower driver ball joint. I have been quoted $35 for the part, $35 for the labor, and $40 to do a 4-wheel alignment = $110 OTD. Is this a good deal? I was originally quoted $129 + tax, but they will do it for the mentioned number above.
Also, what causes a lower ball joint to go bad, and what are some conditions the driver will notice if the joint is going bad? (Such as what behaviors do the car have).
Also, I am wanting to get a transmission drain and fill w/filter done for preventative maintenance. The MERCON V fluid is EXPENSIVE ($3-$4 a QUART), and I have been quoted anywhere from $80-$120 - what have y'all paid for this service? The transmission works wonderfully, however.
Are there any other preventative measures I can take at this mileage? I do plan on replacing the PCV valve at 100K, based on the manual, and replacing spark plugs and wires.
I truly am enjoying my car and love cruising in this thing. I do pizza delivery and I do encounter rough, curvy roads quite frequently - I am sure these roads can tear up a suspension - but honestly, this car has many stronger points than my 1998 Camry I had previously (which was totaled) - for example, the suspension doesn't scrape or bottom out, it rides smoother, it is more solid, more comfortable, and handles WAY better. Not to mention, the 3.0 V6 is known for going a long way! (My '92 Aerostar w/the 3.0 had 250K on it before I quit using it)
Thanks for any information!
- Alex
P.S. I drove the new Ford 500 - WOW !!!