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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • kay10kay10 Member Posts: 1
    im having trouble locating the flasher on my 1996 Ford Taurus sw. any help would be appriciated.
    thanks.
  • brolubrolu Member Posts: 3
    Hi

    I had the wiper transmission replaced yesterday at a Ford dealership. I was quite surprised about the price.... 360$ labour cost (4 hours) and 257$ for the parts. Grand total for replacing the wiper transmission is 709$ including taxes. For me this looks not ok, it can't be that the wiper transmission is worse 5% of a new Ford Taurus. Any idea how this cost in the average?

    Thanks for any feedback
  • millege1millege1 Member Posts: 4
    Hi! I just had my '97 Taurus at the dealer's for state inspection. Was told that I need to have replaced the front sway bar end links and both front struts. Cost is estimated at at least $500. Car has only 72,000 miles on it. While I know no one can answer me 100%, I'm interested in your opinions: Should I have it fixed? Does it really need it? Is it dangerous if I don't fix it? Should I just trade it in and get a newer car? I did just put $500 into it for rotors and a wheel cylinder.

    This car has had a problem with a shake or shimmy since the day I got it over 6 years ago. Previous dealer tried everything: replaced right front half axle, alignment (which then they said they couldn't complete because they needed to grind down the strut towers-at only 29,000 miles?!) It's fixed for a while and then it comes back.

    I like the car, but is it reaching the point where it's going to be one thing after another? :confuse:
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    My cousin runs Tauri over 300,000 miles consistently, and he's on his third one. His state inspection (Utah) has never raised an issue about this stuff. I think your car may have been damaged prior to your ownership. I'd trade it.
  • millege1millege1 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advice! I've had the feeling that it was damaged since 3 months after I bought it. Still, it's been a good car. I should have known better when, one time I took it to the dealer I bought it from with the same old complaint about the shakes and they told me it was because of all the "Pennsylvania potholes." Yeah, right.
  • taurusttaurust Member Posts: 1
    The rear driver side rear brake on my 92 Ford Taurus GL overheated and melted the hub cab.The ABS light came on and would not go out. My brakes became spongy and I eventually had to replace the caliper, pad and rotor. I tried to bleed the brakes on all four wheels but I could not get any fluid (or vacuum) on the rear calipers. I replaced the rear brake proportioning valve, but nothing changed. I have a one-man vacuum pump for brakes, but when I hook it up to the bleeder valve in the rear, I can not get the pressure to come up( like I can on the front calipers).It's as though there is a leak somewhere. The ABS light is still on.

    Are talking about a bad master cylinder ( or is there something called an ABS pump on the Taurus)?
    Could it be the brake booster?
    Can the ABS master cylinder be replaced by a home mechanic?
  • emersonbigginsemersonbiggins Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone. I just had my front brake pads replaced today and the rear drums adjusted/cleaned. The new pads are supposedly Motorcraft OEM pads. The problem that I am having is that the brake pedal travel has not decreased since they've been replaced AND the brakes are slow to stop the car. I had a close call today and called the shop and they said that Motorcraft parts use a "harder ceramic" material that needs about 100 miles of wear-in before they work well.
    Is this really the case, or am I getting the runaround?

    Thanks for any help!
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Are talking about a bad master cylinder.
    Probably not
    is there something called an ABS pump on the Taurus
    Yes, but it has nothing to do with your symptoms.
    Could it be the brake booster?
    No
    Can the ABS master cylinder be replaced by a home mechanic?
    Depends on how good he is

    The root cause might be a rear flex hose collapsed internally, preventing fluid flow. Common on that era Taurus/Sable. For the ABS light, an ABS capable scan tool is required to retrieve the stored diagnostic trouble codes.
  • vppcvppc Member Posts: 58
    Hello, everyone!

    I have a 2001 SES w/Vulcan V6. It has 73,000 miles and I think it is pinging. When I accelerate, especially uphill, it makes a sound. Do those fuel system cleaners work well? If so, what brand should I get? I have seen Prestone, Gumout, STP, Slick 50, and Chevron. All about $5 each.

    Also, do those engine cleaners work? I want to keep my car in the best running condition as long as I can.

    Thanks!
    - Alex
  • lena2lena2 Member Posts: 1
    Hello, well my car will not start,befor that actually happen,the car got so hot that it blew off the radiator cap. any suggestions. :cry:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you are actually pinging, it is possible your cylinders are heavily carbonized and perhaps an additive might help....but that rather depends on the additive and on how much carbon you have in there.

    Basically the carbon buildup raises the compression ratio a bit. To see if you are actually pinging, you should put in a tank of the highest octane you can find and see if the pinging goes away.

    A little pinging is okay but if the engine does it more or less all the time, that's a bad thing.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    my 99 has 47k on it all old lady driven.. steering wheel is starting to wiggle back and forth at low speeds cant really feel; it on the freeway although do need to get rotors (this is another wheel shaker) cv? rack? ideas j :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If the wheel wiggles when you apply the brakes, that's warped rotors or a bent wheel...if it happens without touching the brakes, then you probably have a wheel balance problem, a tire out of round or a bent wheel. CV joints cause vibration but not a wheel wiggle

    You should have this checked right away if the wheel wiggle is severe.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    not the rotors it will doing coasting uphill or down hill and is most notable at speeds at speeds up to 40 .. and it is a has original tires still have life on them although i do need rotors am somewhat of a mechanic............ not severe enough to scare me yet it is just annoying and just started did i say it was constant? :) thanks for the reply it is still a sweet car got it with 30 on it the guy i got it from died and he was like a said kid gloves
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    If the steering wheel saws back and forth at very low speed there's probably a bent wheel or tire belt shifted.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    thanks ill let you know ...... :) maybe my daughter hit somthing and is not telling me
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    the tire is going bad thanks one less headache to worry about
  • rfmerrowrfmerrow Member Posts: 2
    My mother has a 1995 Mercury Sable GL 3.0L with about 67,xxx miles on it. Today, while driving, it cut out on her with no warning. No sputtering, no choking, nothing. She was able to get it restarted, but then it did it again. She said there were no dummy lights on the dashboard. This makes me think something electrical, possibly an alternator, or the sensor on the side of the distributor. Any ideas? I'm puzzled. :confuse: Thanks in advance.

    Rob
  • millege1millege1 Member Posts: 4
    I once drove an Escort wagon that did the same thing to me. Was told there's a fuel sensor switch (?) that needed to be reset. As I recall, it was in the cargo section of the wagon, and all that you needed to do was push the button on top to reset it. I think it had to do with if the car rolled over, the fuel pump shut off.

    Don't know if that's your mom's car's problem or not. :confuse:
  • iheartmysableiheartmysable Member Posts: 3
  • iheartmysableiheartmysable Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1993 Sable GS Sedan, and I am trying to put an aftermarket deck inside of it. I cant seem to find out how to get the old one out and how to get the ashtray on below that off. If anyone knows how, please reply with some hints.
    Thanks
  • iheartmysableiheartmysable Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1993 Sable GS Sedan, and I am trying to put an aftermarket deck inside of it. I cant seem to find out how to get the old one out and how to get the ashtray on below that off. If anyone knows how, please reply with some hints.
    Thanks
  • jameevjameev Member Posts: 1
    We're in the middle of replacing the rotors and brake pads, both front and rear. The front was no problem at all, the rear has us stumped. We cannot get the caliper piston to release. Tried bleeding the brakes, didn't help. We have the same problem with both on the rear. Is there something we're missing?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    The rear calipers have the parking brake mechanism built in, and the pistons have to be rotated clockwise to thread them back down the internal jack screws while pushing on them. Make sure the boots don't stick to the pistons or they'll tear, WD40 works well there. Also make sure the notches in the pistons are positioned to line up with the tabs on the back of the brake pads.

    Larger auto supply houses usually have the piston retractor tool set available for loan, looks like this:
    http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?crn=82&rn=926&action=show_detail

    This also works on most but not as convenient to use:
    http://tools.batauto.com/index.php?crn=82&rn=503&action=show_detail
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Should be 2 small holes on each side of the radio. Ford has a special tool set to go in there to release the spring clips on each side, but 2 pieces of coat hanger each bent into a U shape should work. Insert them and lever the ends outward to release the clips.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    well am not sure what the deal is its a fairly new car 47k and have seen this before but i cant remember where.. the heater does not blow heat anymore.. like i read somwhere else it did... and now it dont dont need it for a couple a more months .. and also have not ever changed the coolant.. does anybody? would appreciate any ideas fore i start rummying around j.. :D ps the ac works lol lol
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    3.0 no overhead
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Member Posts: 1,565
    Does the temperature gauge move up into the normal range? If this gauge does not, then you could have a bad thermostat which is not allowing coolant temperature to come up to operating temperature.

    Otherwise, it could be a bad valve that lets warm coolant into the heater core, or a plugged heater core, or an electrical problem in the dash control.

    If coolant has never been changed, I would go in and get a coolant flush and fill and also tell them your symptoms of no heat.

    I am surprised you notice it at all in the summertime, or did you live with this when it was cold out as well?
  • pzhengpzheng Member Posts: 2
    I have exactly problem as your speedometer ! Could you give me some help as soon as possible !

    -------------> Original message :
    I was wondering if you've found anything out, I've been having similar problems with my 1996 , I've noticed that it is linked to the car running hot, while the car is cool it runs great once it's hot...The speedomoter stops working and the engine doesn't want to respond to the accelerator. It feels like it gets stuck in gear sometimes and the power steering cuts in and out. But Like I Said only when it gets hot, when It starts acting up I turn the heat on high and it stops after a few minutes. No problems with the lights yet.. Feel free to respod to my email directly or post here, my email is jryskigmail.com thanks
  • rfmerrowrfmerrow Member Posts: 2
    The radio is pretty straightforward, as far as Ford's go. If your current radio is the OEM radio, there should be two holes on each side of the face of the deck, one on top of the other and spaced approximately an inch and a half apart. There are special tools that you can purchase pretty much anywhere that sells audio equipment. You push the tools into the holes, (when you see the tools, you'll see that this part is pretty much self explanatory), and when they latch into place, you just pull the deck out. The OEM radio that was in my 92 Ranger was like this, as was the radio in my mom's 94 Topaz and her current 95 Sable. As for the ashtray, I'm not really certain. With my Ranger, you pull the ashtray out, and there's a metal tab in the center of the ashtray, on the top. You pry that out (down toward the ashtray) and the ashtray itself should slide free. As I said, though, I'm not sure about the cars. Good luck!
  • rellomrellom Member Posts: 10
    Sorry if posting this in two different topics is not proper procedure (I am new here) but here goes:

    Can someone please tell me how to remove the dome light cover on my 2004 taurus sedan. Seems it should just pry off but mine does not want to budge.

    Also, if anyone knows how (step by step?) to remove the headliner in order to drill a hole in the roof for an antenna mount I would appreciate hearing from you.

    Thanks
  • nlandllnlandll Member Posts: 1
    sir i have a 96 taurus doing the same thing. when i had it scanned it gave me a po 761 error. it won't shift into fourth like yours was doing, is the solenoid inside the trans or on the outside? i hope outside how much was the part since you are a mechanic i assume you repaired it yourself any help would be greatly appreciated thanks lloyd
  • sheilao3sheilao3 Member Posts: 5
    Please dont laugh, I am a single Mom with 3 girls. NO car knowledge at ALL!
    I have a 1994 Mercury Sable Wagon. Just given to me by my 77 year old Mother in Law. My Mercury Villager died at Christmas. Sable has 42,000 miles and in mint condition. While driving to soccer practice last night a huge cloud of white smole came from rear. The engine temp light came on and began beeping. It had beeped once before 2 weeks prior and I found it had no anti freeze. It has been running very rough since I got the car in jan '05. Using loads of gas. I thought it was just not a car that got good milage. I am gettin 11 or 12 miles to gallon. Lots of "putsy" feeling when I am driving. I had all the filters and oil changed. Did fuel injector cleaner. It also sort of feels like the brake s wont let go after and stop and try to go. It kind of "jumps"., then goes and sometimes when I'm stopped it feels like someone just rear ended me......that was scary the first time or 2.
    Anyway do I replace the head gasket? The Heads, the block? How much is resonable to spend. I have not got the $$ to spare but need a car!
  • amuneepamuneep Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    Vehicle: Ford Taurus SE 2000.
    Noticed this year that when temperature outside was 95 degrees having the A/C on while idling caused the engine temperature indicator to go all the way to "H" within 2-3 minutes. Before the indicator starts moving up, the RPM goes to low (maybe 100-200) and then surges to 1000, then settles back to 600-700. This is repeated every 10 seconds or so. There is a deep vibration sound accompanying this RPM fluctuation. :( After this happens for 3-4 times the temperature indicator starts moving up.The gauge comes back to normal once I switch off the A/C or if I start driving at >40mph for about 5 minutes. I can drive at 70mph with full A/C blast for 3 hours without increasing the temperature beyond the middle point. But it takes less than 5 minutes to get the heat indicator to max out. I had the coolant levels checked and the level is full. This is the first time I encountered this problem.
    Any suggestions will be much appreciated.
    thanks
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah, sounds like a head gasket. You might have caused this by overheating the first time a couple weeks ago. That warning light or beep means that you don't drive the car one more inch. Once the heads warp that's it.

    I'm not sure the car is worth fixing but probably it is, given the low miles. You're probably looking at $700-$1,200 depending on where you live and labor rates, etc. Once they pop the heads they can tell you if there is more severe engine damage. If the entire engine is no good then you may have to go find a good used engine.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    Thermostat seems to be working because the guage just goes to the normal range...... um I did change the coolant last year, the resevior leaks but am not losing any fluid ( put a patch on it so its ok now ) ...... its like i turned the thing on, it worked for about a minute, then it started blowing cold air

    Sometimes i work nights and i need to defrost, live west coast ( Oregon ) like i said car had 47k on it..... Is there a relay for heat? or are we talking a water problem? ...... This car is treated with kid gloves........ is this one of fords better ideas lol-lol, like i said the A.C. works great lol please keep responding until i fix this problem.... Jeff thanks ......... :D
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    Although the guage reads normal and I know these guages are not dead on balls, why would that cause the heater to not blow hot at normal operating temperature? :shades:
  • bisawesomebisawesome Member Posts: 1
    Did anyone ever respond to your speedometer problem? My car started doing something similar to that yesterday. I have a 98 taurus. It was not running hot. I didn't even "gun" the accelerator and the rpm gage shot way up. And it seemed to hesitate to go into gear. (It's automatic). After that it ran fine. When I left again, a little while later, everything was fine and then the speedometer all of a sudden went down to 0 and did not move, but the car was still driving. Then the service engine light came on. We pulled over, turned off the car, checked a few fluids, and then decided to return home. As I was driving the speedometer started working again, but the engine light stayed on. Does anyone know what that could be?
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I don't know much about your Taurus - but I do know lots about Ford trucks. On those, the guage cluster will act irregular if your battery is failing - almost like it's supposed to be giving you a sign. It's very dependable. If your guages all go to full, back to off, and then somewhere in between, you need a new battery - but that's again, on the trucks.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Member Posts: 33
    still have the heater problem...
  • bob75bob75 Member Posts: 6
    I don't know if the Sable is anything like the 2002 Taurus, but I had a problem as you describe with the remote, and went to the Ford Dealership, and what they did was so simple I was amazed. To program the remote, turn the ignition to the first position ON, then clockwise 8 times in rapid succession, then hit the remote trunk lock or any for that matter, and it should work. Hope this helps. Bob75
  • bob75bob75 Member Posts: 6
    I purchased this Taurus used and find that the driver side headlamp is WAY out of adjustment. The owner's manual says to turn the little 4mm bolt clockwise to move the beam DOWN and counterclockwise to go UP, but mine doesn't change one bit. Anybody have this same problem? And how to fix it??? Appreciate any and all input. Bob75
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    That is essentially correct, and will work on most Ford cars. The exact instructions are in your owners manual.
  • bob75bob75 Member Posts: 6
    Hey nvbanker, I'm quoting (exactly) directly from the Owner's Manual, but what I'm trying to convey, is that MINE doesn't work. Is there something about taking the thing apart and finding out WHY it doesn't do what the manual says it's supposed to do??? I don't have a comprehensive manual like Haynes or Chilton's put out, but someone must know the answer to this problem.....???
  • galebgaleb Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 96 Taurus Wagon with 140,000 miles that develops a little bit of a vibration in the front end when the car is in drive and is accelerating slightly while at fairly slow speeds(30 - 45 +/-). If coasting or if accelerating fairly quickly, it doesn't vibrate. It also doesn't vibrate until the car is driven 10 + minutes if the weather is warm or hot and sometimes not at all when the weather is cool. I don't feel the vibration in the steering wheel, but do in the floorboards, front seat, and back seats. The car is in otherwise excellent condition and has obviously been well cared for. It is the LX version and has the 6 cy. DOHC engine. It has new tires and alloy wheels. If anyone has had similar problems or has any suggestions, I would appreciate your comments. Thanks, GB
  • pzhengpzheng Member Posts: 2
    Here is the reply from Jesse Ryski, I hope it will give you some help ---------->

    Well as far as the speedometer goes that was caused by a
    malfunctioning VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) it still misfires sometimes
    and when its misfiring, it doesn't want to chage gears however I don't
    know what its caused by, I've changed the VSS, the Ignition coil, the
    thermostat (hoping it would run cooler) the serpentine belt (thinking
    somehow that could slip and cause the water pump to work improperly,
    spark plugs and wires, I'm not sure what to do next, the only other
    thing I can think of is the computer (brain). So anyways it's running
    better after the VSS but after driving for a few hours it gets hot and
    starts running kinda screwy. It seems like if I shut the car off while
    its misfiring and start it again it runs better. Hope some of this
    helps email me back and let me know. The VSS will fix the speedometer
    problem.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    No need to take it apart unless the battery inside is dead. You do need the correct remote for it to program, they're not all universal, but any Ford Sedan remote ought to program. If you're following the owner's manual instructions exactly - then your remote is bad, or the wrong one, I would say.
  • lmandrewslmandrews Member Posts: 2
    Ford issued a recall or service bulletin covering leaking head gaskets on your car, and agreed to replace them at no charge. But time may have run out on the offer
    Check with your dealer. Good luck!
  • bob75bob75 Member Posts: 6
    No problem nvbanker, I just went to the Ford Dealer, and the guy showed me how to do it. Just turn on ignition to first stop, then turn on and off 8 times and voila, it works fine. Thanks anyway. Bob
  • bob75bob75 Member Posts: 6
    nvbanker, I don't know if I responded to your post about the Headlamp adjustment or not, (I may have been thinking of the remote at the time) but anyway, I turn the little 4mm bolt clockwise OR counterclockwise and nothing happens. Does this mean I have to take the whole headlamp assembly off and see if maybe something is amiss inside this thing??? I don't have the Chilton's or Haynes book on the model, so don't know what they tell you to do, but seems kinda complicated taking that headlamp assembly out. Any ideas, from anybody????? Thanks, Bob
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